jasonculp

I have been doing it all afternoon. My football season was over last week. My wife has been watching the Lifetime channel, and Forensic Files to make sure she gets away with my future murder (J/K). I have been drifting in and out of a nap all day!

Just bought a Sigelei V2 100W. Love the magnetic cover, no f'n screws. Topped it with an Atlantis and a tank full of Fadors Vapor's Peanut Butter Fudge Brownie, Mmmmmmmmm Mmmmmmmmmmm!


Started with a Vamo, then went to a DOVPO but was killing my battery in a few hours. This uses 2 18650's and I'm getting 2 days

I prefer square/rectangle mods. Here are the electronic boxes around my chair this evening:


The one in front is a Itaze VV with a Nautilus Mini Left is an iStick with a Nautilus Mini Middle is an MPV with a Nautilus Right is an IPV3 with a Billow RTA on it.

The rig on the right is getting close to it. I am running a .4 ohm twisted 28ga dual coil set up on it. It is hitting as hard, if not harder than my 454 Big Block RDA.

Sorry, by disposable, I meant that it without a lot of technical skill when it quits you throw it away.

I was also talking about the iStick, not the Vision Spinner 2. I really don't have any experience with the spinner at all. I just know most people that have them love them.

I have been doing it all afternoon. My football season was over last week. My wife has been watching the Lifetime channel, and Forensic Files to make sure she gets away with my future murder (J/K). I have been drifting in and out of a nap all day!

The Mean/RMS doesn't bother me, but I vape at 10.5 eleaf watts, which is close to 12 - 15 regular watts...lol I personally think people get too hung up on the numbers. If someone is using tanks with premade coils, if it is too hot, turn it down....and vice versa ;-) I love the form factor. I am really hoping one of the versions of the MVP 3.0 is about the same size as the iStick with a better 510. At the same time, I would like a MVP about the same size as the original with 20 - 30 watts, better button placement, and a recessed, spring loaded 510 in the $50 - $75 range.

I may be wrong, but I put the iStick in the same class as the ego twists. It is an inexpensive, adjustable battery with a very small size, and if it dies, you are not out a lot of money, but can last a long time and be dependable if you take good care of it. I think if you were wanting something that will last for a while, in the same category you would have to spend $120 and get a Vapor Shark DNA30.

Back from the vets office. She has clean bill of health. Had all of her shots. Doc said she is around a year old. Next step is to have her spayed. Thank you for all the helpful tips

I know it isn't much, but I finally got the stuff to replace the 510 on my MPV. Overall it wasn't too difficult, except re soldering the wire to the top cap.

I wish I had taken pictures of the modification, but I didn't.




It was fun and only took about an hour, well it really took 2 but an hour of that was finding my tools.

I know it isn't much, but I finally got the stuff to replace the 510 on my MPV. Overall it wasn't too difficult, except re soldering the wire to the top cap.

I wish I had taken pictures of the modification, but I didn't.




It was fun and only took about an hour, well it really took 2 but an hour of that was finding my tools.

Jason gets a gold-star

One thing I will point out is the expense of getting started.... A simple RDA/RTA/RBA and a Mech Mod can be fairly cheap, but as Jason pointed out, two or four GOOD batteries, a few spools of Kanthal, wick material, cutters, torch (an old lighter will do in a pinch), cutters, ceramic tweezers, AND OHM METER will add to that cost rather quickly.

You can do it for under $100, but I always want to point out the initial expense... And, I stress "initial", because after you buy all this stuff, you'll only have to keep yourself stocked (a little here, little there)...

Jason's words are very wise... and he makes great recommendations too.

Could you provide a link to the one you are looking at?

I have read that there are certain ones that do not have a standardized 510 connection and only work with the RDA in the kit. That wouldn't be such a terrible thing if it was a good RDA, but the problem would be checking your ohms. It wouldn't fit a standard vaping style ohm meter. You would have to have a very high quality digital volt/ohm meter to test coils.

It looks like a quality mod. I would be mostly concerned with the floating 510 connection quality and the paint/coating on the threads. I don't know what the inside of the button looks like, but Infinite clone looks like a quality piece. It might require a little work to make it hit hard such as cleaning the threads and possibly upgrading the switch to magnets. (if it isn't already)

The EHPRO version is said to not have any coating on the threads.

I am obligated to say to do your research, read all the stickies, buy an ohm meter, and ask questions!

I also forgot to mention that you are welcome to come back here and ask questions. There are many great people here that are willing to help. When it comes to mechanical mods, making your own coils, and doing it safely, there are no dumb questions. Mechanical mods are very simple, but, they require a lot of attention from you to use them safely. The reason they work so good, and are so (possibly) dangerous is they have no safety. Improper builds can at best ruin equipment, and at worst cause injury.

I am not trying to talk you out of using them, I just want you to be aware of how careful you need to be!

I recommend you read and study this page: It will give you a basic understanding of why volts, ohms, and watts matter and relate to each other.

Here is one on batteries:



You are correct. The first thing you need is a good ohm meter. It is mandatory.

Wire and wick: I bought a spool of 32ga 30ga, 28ga, and 26ga each A-1 Kanthal I get it from Temco. I really only use the 26 and the 28. Wicking i use organic cotton balls from the drug store, and rayon from Sally's beauty supply.

Then use these calculators to help you calculate your coils:

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp
http://coiltoy.ermeso.com/


I would recommend a small precision screwdriver set. These are great for the screws on the RDA and also winding coils on. Small drill bits work great for winding coils too.

You might also consider a coil winding jig, and a micro torch. They just make things easier. Kanthal comes pre-annealed from the factory, but torching it makes it a bit easier to work with. The coil jig wastes a bit of wire, but it is very easy to make pretty coils.

Oops, I forgot you will need some small pliers, tweezers, and clippers to trim wires.




For batteries, I suggest the 18650 Sony VTC3, VTC4, or VTC5. Be very careful where you buy them, they are highly counterfeited.

Here are 2 very trusted sites:

http://www.vaportalk.com/product-category/ecig-batteries/ecig-mod-batteries/
http://www.fadoravapor.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16_54

There are many other batteries out there. Many of them will work fine, but when you are first starting out I would recommend sticking with name brand, and trusted suppliers. Don't forget a good charger. I like the Nitecore brand.



I don't have enough experience to help you much in the area. I only have 2 types. I use the Tobh clone, and the 454 Big Block clone, both work great. They both are not the best for beginners. The Tobh has to be modified, or build off center for airflow. The 454 uses a ring for grounding and can be hard to build on.



I recommend YouTube and watching RipTrippers and Pbusardo's video. I think they have some beginner videos.

Yeah its kills all other rda's i own or tried. V2 has nice deep wells, and with all the heat sink fins, it barely gets warm vaping dual coils at .3 ohm.

The Kick2 is a power regulated digital switch-mode DC-DC converter for personal vaporizers in the form of a drop in module. It features controlled power from 5 to 15 watts and runs from a single lithium battery. It works in exactly the same way as the original Kick but boasts a higher maximum power and employs synchronous rectification for superior efficiency. The Kick2 also boasts mod resistance compensation to ensure a more accurate power delivery.
Output Power: 5 Watts to 15 Watts
Output Voltage: 2 Volts to 6.3 Volts
Output Current: 6 Amps
atomizer resistances: 0.5 Ohms to 3.3 Ohms
low battery cutoff: 2.7 Volts loaded

I made the dual twisted on a whim the other night. It was super easy. I just chucked an gun cleaning patch holder in the battery powered drill and a c-clamp on the bench and went to town... It was kinda fun.

I am going to have to get me a better build deck, like the Plume Veil. The 454 is getting to be a bigger pain than it is worth to play on. I like the fact it has a 2 positives and 2 negative screw holes. I guess I am getting old and grumpy...

I made the dual twisted on a whim the other night. It was super easy. I just chucked an gun cleaning patch holder in the battery powered drill and a c-clamp on the bench and went to town... It was kinda fun.

I am going to have to get me a better build deck, like the Plume Veil. The 454 is getting to be a bigger pain than it is worth to play on. I like the fact it has a 2 positives and 2 negative screw holes. I guess I am getting old and grumpy...

Not true kngfdrgn. First if it can be utilized in a true mechanical mod then all you have to take into consideration is the amp rating of the battery. Use ohms law and determine what resistance is safe to vape at with that voltage.

Next option is making a box mod using said battery, at the moment tye only high rated momentary switch is a large 60a marine switch, or you can use the tried and true meathod of building a box with a MOSFET, resistor, and any momentary switch you wish.

I have a series box mod I made that runs a 8.4v lipo with a MOSFET, resistor and tactile switch and it functions flawlessly. The lipo is a 60a, but I tend to stay around .5-.7 ohms which uses around 14 amps and 117 watts

I had the same problem making the switch to vaping and not feeling the satisfaction.I've been vaping for about a year or so now and I was thinking the other day that I haven't even thought about a cigarette in a very long time.Stick to it,you'll be glad you did down the road.

If you need genuine stuff you are correct, many sites, and local shops sell knock-offs for full price. Some do it without even realizing it I bet. Vapor Talk has a store and you can get most of what you need there, and it is genuine. http://www.vaportalk.com/ It might save you a bit of money over the manufacturer.

If there is something you need that the store does not have, many people will suggest places that have a good track record.




This board does not have the most posts per hour of all of the boards on the internet. I will guarantee you that you will get some of the best information, from some of the most patient people you will ever meet!

I recommend you read and study this page: It will give you a basic understanding of why volts, ohms, and watts matter and relate to each other.

Here is one on batteries:



You are correct. The first thing you need is a good ohm meter. It is mandatory.

Wire and wick: I bought a spool of 32ga 30ga, 28ga, and 26ga each A-1 Kanthal I get it from Temco. I really only use the 26 and the 28. Wicking i use organic cotton balls from the drug store, and rayon from Sally's beauty supply.

Then use these calculators to help you calculate your coils:

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp
http://coiltoy.ermeso.com/


I would recommend a small precision screwdriver set. These are great for the screws on the RDA and also winding coils on. Small drill bits work great for winding coils too.

You might also consider a coil winding jig, and a micro torch. They just make things easier. Kanthal comes pre-annealed from the factory, but torching it makes it a bit easier to work with. The coil jig wastes a bit of wire, but it is very easy to make pretty coils.

Oops, I forgot you will need some small pliers, tweezers, and clippers to trim wires.




For batteries, I suggest the 18650 Sony VTC3, VTC4, or VTC5. Be very careful where you buy them, they are highly counterfeited.

Here are 2 very trusted sites:

http://www.vaportalk.com/product-category/ecig-batteries/ecig-mod-batteries/
http://www.fadoravapor.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16_54

There are many other batteries out there. Many of them will work fine, but when you are first starting out I would recommend sticking with name brand, and trusted suppliers. Don't forget a good charger. I like the Nitecore brand.



I don't have enough experience to help you much in the area. I only have 2 types. I use the Tobh clone, and the 454 Big Block clone, both work great. They both are not the best for beginners. The Tobh has to be modified, or build off center for airflow. The 454 uses a ring for grounding and can be hard to build on.



I recommend YouTube and watching RipTrippers and Pbusardo's video. I think they have some beginner videos.

I have back ups for My back ups lol.just like Tam said,you can never have too many

ok guys, all reported bugs and suggestions have been completed as of this morning. (Though you might have to hit the F5 key to clear your cache)

Font is now 14, font is darker, purple highlight removed etc...

This has always been a concern of mine since I started this hobby. My MVP is still going great, and it is the one of the oldest batteries that I have. Of course it is only 5 - 6 months old. It is now disassembled awaiting a 510 transplant.

My habit is to vape all day, charge all night with the MVP and now the iSticks. Is this ok? They only drain to about half before I charge them. I know other chemistry batteries it was better to discharge them quite a bit before recharging them. I know the type batteries we use now don't have a memory, but what is the best practice?

I tend to do the same if not worse with my mechanical batteries. I was using them for a few hours in the evening, the putting on the charger (Nitecore i4). I have started rotating them and using them more. I will use one until it gets a bit weak, then switch. When I get 4 that are not charged, I charge them all.

I have 2 VTC4's that i have held back to use in a possible dual 18650 electronic mod, and I keep them in a drawer, isolated and have not charged, or used them. Is this bad? Do I need to check them every so often?