FXRich

I have 2 of them, one is still in the box, but the one I do use works great.

Sometimes I use a mini crock pot, we got it as part of a set and until now didn't have any use for it. I think it was intended to be used for fondue or something like that.

Sometimes I use a mini crock pot, we got it as part of a set and until now didn't have any use for it. I think it was intended to be used for fondue or something like that.

Yes they are V2, pic on Mt Baker shows V1, guess you can't always go by the pics that's posted by the retailer.
V1 had wicking problems, I fixed mine by milling the slots bigger, and now they wick fine.

That is a good deal, even if they come with the first version of the RBA. I did notice that the VT store has the original version of the Subtank Nano for $15, if I didn't already have a couple still in the box unopened I would order a couple of them.
I'm not sure if Kanger still makes the subtank mini, or the nano, I think they are only making the top tank mini and top tank nano now, but I could be wrong. (been wrong before)

I believe all the VT store has are flat top 18650 batteries, but Chris would know for sure.

We don't want to hear on the news about somebody in Mi. named Walt blowing himself up.
I would say the mod is giving you a more accurate reading, I have 2 of those so called meters 1 don't work anymore, and the other is very inaccurate, maybe its because they were on clearance when I bought them. a .07 coil at 150w uses 3.2V and 38 Amps,  a 1.02 coil at 150w uses 12.4V and 12 Amps, I don't know if your mod will put out 12.4V.
Either way don't blow yourself up. 

I tried Clapton coils too, but like you I found them to be lacking in flavor. Lots of vapor not much flavor, and they shorten the battery life.
To me a good alternative is twisted wire, not as much surface, but more flavor than Clapton.

The RX200 does have a stealth mode, to take it out of stealth mode press the fire button, then the up and down buttons at the same time.
 

Does it have "stealth mode" you might of accidentally put it in

Blahahahaha saz the owner of the "Bump when you get something new" thread.  I really believe shinyitus is incurable.  Better to just enjoy having it.

There are some tanks that use high watts, (the baby beast comes to mind), that use over 100w
Like you I very rarely get over 25w, but I do have 3 dual battery mods that will do over 100w, at the watts I run the dual batteries last a long time.
If you have a car that is capable of 150, doesn't mean you have to drive it that fast.
2 of the mods I use daily are Kanger 75w TC mods with a Subtank mini on top, a very good setup in my opinion.

There are some tanks that use high watts, (the baby beast comes to mind), that use over 100w
Like you I very rarely get over 25w, but I do have 3 dual battery mods that will do over 100w, at the watts I run the dual batteries last a long time.
If you have a car that is capable of 150, doesn't mean you have to drive it that fast.
2 of the mods I use daily are Kanger 75w TC mods with a Subtank mini on top, a very good setup in my opinion.

That's a baby beast, there should not be any plastic in that tank with the exception of the drip tip.
The burning plastic smell may be coming from a overheated battery, The baby beast uses a lot more power than the Artic tank, and your battery might not be up to it.

I am relatively new to vaping, my current favorite set up is a K box mini 75W TC with a Sence Herakles Plus tank .4ohm Clapton coil.
 
I have been looking at other mods out there and don't understand why someone would buy a mod that goes up to 300w , 200w or even 100w for that matter. Mine goes to 75w and I never run it at even close to that high power. With a .4 coil I keep min set at about 27w. Any higher and it starts to taste burnt and the vape is hot. I have tried different coils and tanks (Kanger top tank sun ohm, Crown 2, Nautilus mini) and the hottest I have ever run my was around 50w. What's the use for these hi wattage output mods?
 
I know this is a noob question and appreciate the input.

I may be part German, but I like my dark beer, and my Jagermeister both cold.

You can send me yours.  I have one recently opened and two more fresh bottles in my freezer right now.  Love Jäegermeister...so much so that I used to have a GSD named Jäegermeister, (Jäeger for short).  The name definitely fit, as he was a master at hunting gophers, possum, snakes and other undesirable critters around the house.

I try to keep a bottle or 2 on hand myself, I guess its an acquired taste.

Does that mean you are not going to try my recipe? What tastes good to me don't taste to you.
That's OK if you come up with a spinach flavored juice I sure won't be trying that.

That is exactly what @FXRich was saying... MECH MODS do NOT have safety features found in regulated mods, and if you build a bad coil or have a short, a regulated mod will shut itself down before a catastrophe happens... a mech will overheat, short, and potentially blow up (especially when using a cheap, low-Amp-load battery).  This is why anyone using a mech SHOULD test their coil builds, either with a regulated mod, or with a respectable Ohm Meter before firing the coil on the mech.  His answer was spot-on to the OP... testing the build on the eVic is a good idea and just as reliable as testing on the eLeaf REGULATED MOD.
Seriously... no need to be so defensive over mechs... it seems most of your posts are hyper-defensive / hyper-sensitive over mechs, and while you opinion does and should matter on the subject... not everyone agrees they are the end-all-be-all of vaping.  
Many of us still use mechs too (although not as frequently as a couple years ago), and it is common consensus around here (VT Forum) that regulated mods are more mainstream because they are safer (primarily) as they safeguard against shorts and bad builds!  My (and many other's) preference to a regulated mod is the simple fact that they deliver a consistent vape throughout the entire functional life of the battery's charge, rather than a constantly declining voltage application to the coil, like a mech mod does....  
Regulated mods have come a long way in a short time, and even major cloud-chasers use them... because today's regulated mods can handle (safely) builds down in to the 0.1 Ohm (and even lower) range.  Regulated mods of a couple years ago could barely handle builds down around the 1.0 Ohm range, which is why mechs were the preference of cloud-chasers, drippers, and those who built sub-ohm coils.... mechs were the only way to fire those coils back then!  Today, there are much better, safer, and plenty of design options in regulated mods....

Personally I took the .6 ohm with a grain of salt, he might have used a multimeter, and not deducted the resistance of the leads.
From what I read I assumed he built the mod himself, which would explain how he could get a wet coil red hot. Using 20g wire it would take more time to get a wet coil that hot, and a regulated mod would time out before that happened, or at least they are suppose to.

Velocity style decks usually work pretty good, The positive leg is probably held with a screw from the bottom, Once in a while the screw on the bottom loosens a little, every time I rebuild my subtank mini RBA I check the peek insulator and make sure the screw is tight. You may also have a bad insulator, they can go bad.

You may have gotten a bad batch of coils, it does happen.
Being you are a gadget junkie you may check into the RBA that is available for the Cupti, you will have to rebuild it yourself, but it may not leak.

If your tank looses vacuum it will leak, even a slight air leak at the top of the tank will cause it keep supplying juice to a already soaked wick. It is possible the Cupti was poorly designed to start with.
The Cupti uses the same CLOCC coil that other Kanger tanks use, and the other tanks don't leak. (to the best of my knowledge)
I don't have any tanks that use CLOCC coils so I can't really say much about the coils.

It worked! Yay! Ty so much!