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There are many tanks that would work well for this mod. What are you looking for? Do you vape mouth to lung or direct to lung? How much VG do you use in your juice? What mg of nic? Do you want to sub-ohm or does that not matter to you? That would make a big difference in the type of tank we'd recommend.

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I was just about to suggest the TFV8, as well as the Kanger Subtank Mini...both are good, but the TFV8 is a bit more suited to bigger clouds, higher VG, and more power.  The subtank mini is just a great all-around tank, with lots of coil options to suit your needs.

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SMOK TFV8 Baby Turbo Engine Coils Features:

  • Patented Baby Turbo Engines Coil Structure

V8 Baby-Q2 Dual Core

  • Dual Coil Design
  • 0.4ohm rated for 40-80W, recommended 55-65W

V8 Baby-M2 Dual Core

  • Dual Coil Design
  • 0.3ohm rated for 25-45W, recommended 35W

V8 Baby-X4 Quadruple Core 

  • Quad Coil Design 
  • 0.15ohm rated for 30-70W, recommended 45-60W

V8 Baby-T6 Sextuple Core

  • Sextuple Coil Design
  • 0.2ohm rated 40-130W, recommended 70-90W

V8 Baby-T8 Octuple Core

  • Octuple Coil Design
  • 0.15ohm rated for 50-110W, recommended 60-80W

V8 Baby RBA Head

  • Two-Post Design - 0.3ohm Clapton
  • Fe-Cr and Nickel-Nichromium Heating Material
  • Includes V8 RBA Exclusive Glass Tube, Screwdriver, and Spare Parts
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Wow, That Octuple has got to have a huge surface area.  A miniature fog machine.  Pumping that amount of current, especially in a DC circuit and that small of a device is some feat. Maybe I'll get one to fog the stage between songs.  Now there's a hook that hasn't been done!

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15 minutes ago, turd_furgeson said:

my mod is 40w, so the only one i can go with is the M2 right?

Your mod can only fire coils down to 0.3 Ohm, so yes, the M2 is the only one that will fire on your device... but even then... that is the absolute lowest, so if the coil dips to 0.29 Ohms or lower, you'll get an error and it won't fire.

For your mod, I'd recommend something with coils available in the 0.5 ohm range or higher... like the Subtank Mini :)  Your current CoolFire IV will work with a Subtank Mini or Nano as-is, and will be an inexpensive upgrade tank.

If you want to use the TFV8 to it's fullest potential, you'll need to invest in a mod that will fire coils down to 0.1 Ohm, and capable of 75W minimum?  There are plenty of them out there for under $30, and even more options for under $50....

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17 minutes ago, turd_furgeson said:

my mod is 40w, so the only one i can go with is the M2 right?

To get the full latitude out of the coil, the M2 would be your wisest choice.  I'm not sure how each manufacturer rates their coils.  One would think that the "rated at" figures would signify the beginning power at which vapor is produced and the max power for safe operation.  Recommended settings to me mean the power range at which pleasurable vaping occurs.  

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I have a question that's been bugging me.  How is a mod going to react if over tasked?  Example:  I have a single 18650 and I mount a .5 coil.  Nominal voltage being ~4V, I have a max of 32W available.  I set my mod to 75W.  Is it going to indicate "low battery", "no you can't", or simply supply the 32W it can and indicate 75?

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The short answer is the control circuitry steps the voltage up by drawing higher Amps... this is why you need to make sure you are using high quality, high Amp batteries in your mods.  In order for your mod to step up to 75W with a single 18650, it can draw upwards of 20A+ (depending on the mod's chip-set and the charge-level of the battery).  Most mods have safety built-in to prevent them from exceeding a specific Amp range, just like they won't fire coils below a specific Ohm rating.

@jasonculp did a really good write-up on how the chip-sets bump up Wattage, Amp load on batteries, etc. and can give you a much more detailed answer... but suffice it to say, the mod's chip-set does a lot more than just display the Ohms, Voltage/Wattage, and battery-level :) 

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31 minutes ago, Earthling789 said:

The short answer is the control circuitry steps the voltage up by drawing higher Amps... this is why you need to make sure you are using high quality, high Amp batteries in your mods.  In order for your mod to step up to 75W with a single 18650, it can draw upwards of 20A+ (depending on the mod's chip-set and the charge-level of the battery).  Most mods have safety built-in to prevent them from exceeding a specific Amp range, just like they won't fire coils below a specific Ohm rating.

@jasonculp did a really good write-up on how the chip-sets bump up Wattage, Amp load on batteries, etc. and can give you a much more detailed answer... but suffice it to say, the mod's chip-set does a lot more than just display the Ohms, Voltage/Wattage, and battery-level :) 

Wondered about that.  That's fairly sophisticated circuitry in a very small package for sure.  It still blows me away with the amount of current these devices handle.  There's the nerd inside me that would love to see a circuit diagram. 

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I'm going to stick my foot in the door.I love my crown 2!!alot of people have had leaking issues with it,I really have not.I run a .8 kanthal coil rated 35-55 watts off the top of my head,I run it at 45 and get a very nice vape!allthough,I have had problems with popping o rings,but it was my only tank for a few months,so that was bound to happen.the tc coils stainless,can also be run in power mode,they come in .5,and .25.It is my favorite tank.However ,I'm not going to discourage you from the subtank mini,because you can choose from stainless or nickel for tc,and there are a ton of different coil options.I brought up the crown 2 because that thing is a workhorse!!I recently bought a subtank nano and love it!just throwing that out there.

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