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Are all mods the same?


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What exactly is your question?

Are you wanting to jump into RBAs/RDAs and a mech?

If so, while helpful, that chart is nothing more than reference. I's up to you to make sure you are safe.

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Basically, what the chart says is, if you are relying on Voltage settings on your MOD, the lower the Resistance of the coil, the lower your voltage should be (to get a good vape)... higher resistance coils require higher voltage to produce the same Wattages (as the lower resistance coils at lower voltage).

This is why a variable wattage (VW) MOD is worthwhile... set it and forget it... regardless of the coil you use, voltage will auto-select to reach the desired wattage (as long as that voltage is within the operating parameters of the MOD). Although that is just a reference, because some coils will produce better taste at 7W, some at 8W, some at 10W, etc.

If you look at the chart, firing a 1.2 Ohm coil @ 7V will basically give you a 40W light-bulb (drawing nearly 6 Amps) to vaporize your juice... NOT GOOD! NOT SAFE!

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I'm thinking of doing some rebuildable coils for dripping and trying to find a way I can drip to switch flavors a lot. Can I just use my Itastev vv v3?

(I don't know if any rdas will sit flush with my itaste vv v3 -which Is somewhat important)

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You don't want a VV for an RDA. and No, just like batteries, not all mods are created equal. Some have a large voltage drop others do not. Some are junk others will rock your socks off. Please do research before getting into the MODs an RDAs. :) They can be enjoyable but also dangerous.

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I'm thinking of doing some rebuildable coils for dripping and trying to find a way I can drip to switch flavors a lot. Can I just use my Itastev vv v3?

(I don't know if any rdas will sit flush with my itaste vv v3 -which Is somewhat important)

I had the same question. Tam pointed me towards some nice low resistance dripping atomizers. You drop a few drops at a time, vape and can choose to continue with your current flavor or switch (i.e. for flavor testing purposes). Of course if your set on RDAs then I would suggest a good deal of research. That's where I am, researching my *** off. Until I'm ready to jump into that arena I'll stick with these.

http://www.kidneypuncher.com/kp-long-barrel-sealed-atomizer/

Edited by jerryjoe
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You don't want a VV for an RDA. and No, just like batteries, not all mods are created equal. Some have a large voltage drop others do not. Some are junk others will rock your socks off. Please do research before getting into the MODs an RDAs. :) They can be enjoyable but also dangerous.

So basically I would want my mod to be a solid 3.7 volts and build my coils from 1.8-3.2 ohms

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I had the same question. Tam pointed me towards some nice low resistance dripping atomizers. You drop a few drops at a time, vape and can choose to continue with your current flavor or switch (i.e. for flavor testing purposes). Of course if your set on RDAs then I would suggest a good deal of research. That's where I am, researching my *** off. Until I'm ready to jump into that arena I'll stick with these. http://www.kidneypuncher.com/kp-long-barrel-sealed-atomizer/
Yha that's all I do is research lol I have they joyetech 510 and I like it I want to drip better I just don't know what's best. thinking of the octopus, kamry x1 or something like it Edited by VaporTron
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No they are not at all the same.

You don't really need to be able to completely understand Ohm's law but take from it what we need for this.

Georg Simon Ohm was born in 1787 in Erlangen, Germany. Georg came from a Protestant family. His father, Johann Wolfgang Ohm, was a locksmith and his mother, Maria Elizabeth Beck, was the daughter of a tailor. Although his parents had not been formally educated, Ohm's father was a remarkable man who had educated himself and was able to give his sons an excellent education through his own teachings.

In 1805, Ohm entered the University of Erlangen and received a doctorate. He wrote elementary geometry book while teaching mathematics at several schools. Ohm began experimental work in a school physics laboratory after he had learned of the discovery of electromagnetism in 1820.

In two important papers in 1826, Ohm gave a mathematical description of conduction in circuits modeled on Fourier's study of heat conduction. These papers continue Ohm's deduction of results from experimental evidence and, particularly in the second, he was able to propose laws which went a long way to explaining results of others working on galvanic electricity.

The basic components of an electrochemical cell are:
ohmexperiment.gif

  1. Electrodes (X and Y) that are made of electrically conductive materials: metals, carbon, composites ...
  2. Reference electrodes (A, B, C) that are in electrolytic contact with an electrolyte
  3. The cell itself or container that is made of an inert material: glass, Plexiglass, ... and
  4. An electrolyte that is the solution containing ions.

Ohm's Law
Using the results of his experiments, Georg Simon Ohm was able to define the fundamental relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. What is now known as Ohm's law appeared in his most famous work, a book published in 1827 that gave his complete theory of electricity.

The equation I = V/R is known as "Ohm’s Law". It states that the amount of steady current through a material is directly proportional to the voltage across the material divided by the electrical resistance of the material. The ohm ®, a unit of electrical resistance, is equal to that of a conductor in which a current (I) of one ampere is produced by a potential of one volt (V) across its terminals. These fundamental relationships represent the true beginning of electrical circuit analysis.

Current flows in an electric circuit in accordance with several definite laws. The basic law of current flow is Ohm's law. Ohm's law states that the amount of current flowing in a circuit made up of only resistors is related to the voltage on the circuit and the total resistance of the circuit. The law is usually expressed by the formula V= IR (described in the above paragraph), where I is the current in amperes, V is voltage (in volts), and R is the resistance in ohms.

The ohm, a unit of electrical resistance, is equal to that of a conductor in which a current of one ampere is produced by a potential of one volt across its terminals.

Information provided by the Department of Energy

Voltage squared and then divided by resistance (ohms) will give you the wattage. Divide wattage by voltage and you have amperage draw.

Another worry is causing a short circuit.

short circuit

n
1. (Electronics) a faulty or accidental connection between two points of different potential in an electric circuit, bypassing the load and establishing a path of low resistance through which an excessive current can flow. It can cause damage to the components if the circuit is not protected by a fuse

When I tested all kind of power generation equipment for our military I performed this testing.

I believe it is important to make the circuit as conductive as possible by having large yet finely machined threading. You want clean and oxidation and corrosion free points of contact. Even stainless will gain a layer of oxidation but it is Clear. Preventing this with something like a non-conductive grease like nyogel 760g is a good idea. Though it is non conductive it will not act as a buffer and being non conductive it will not bridge contacts.

I would say the most important thing is a quality battery, good clean connections and making sure not to cause a short circuit.

I am a rookie to vaporizers but not to working with electrical circuits. I was afraid of this at first because I didn't know much about battery technology. I tested megawatt generators and used open block load banks so I was always very cautious. I realize now that this is nothing to be afraid of, just something to be cautious with and take seriously before jumping in.

Remember a lot of the clones are practically made of pot metal. Also remember brass is not all created equal. You may hear bad about lead in brass but naval brass contains no lead.

These are a few of the things I wish people had told me right off the bat.

Im far from an expert here so take it for what its worth.

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After reading about ohms law and how it pertains to vaping I understand that it isn't dangerous if you keep it inside those certain parameters What's worry some is : checking to know what batteries are not dangerous as to thermal runaway and battery venting! Safe wick: cotton vs silica Types of metal used for vaping? Surgical or food grade SS? So even on my itaste vv v3 and my kpt3 mini showing 1.9 ohms I need to keep it at 3.2-3.4 volts for optimum production
Edited by VaporTron
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I'm sure I can get a nice all SS octopus or squid type rda with some organic cotton wick and be dripping pretty nicely on the itaste vv v3 and if I build my coil 2.0 ohms and set the itaste to 3.4 ohms everything should be ok?

Edited by VaporTron
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What's wrong with 8volts? Was rocking my dna30 at 30 watts w/ 2.1 coil on KFL for awhile. Hard for wicking to keep up!

Edited by Proetus
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I'm sure I can get a nice all SS octopus or squid type rda with some organic cotton wick and be dripping pretty nicely on the itaste vv v3 and if I build my coil 2.0 ohms and set the itaste to 3.4 ohms everything should be ok?

Yes you should be fine, I think that's a typo above though and you meant to say 3.4 volts, and the voltage experts can comment on that.

I use organic cotton balls from CVS or Walgreens, both places near me carry them, one is called "Studio Beauty" or "Studio 35 Beauty" and the other brand is "Organic Essentials".

They were $3 at CVS and $3.99 at walgreens, a bag lasts a few months to a year, I am sort of wasteful with my cotton balls, I"ll pull out a chunk to make a wick and then throw away stuff i pull off that could probably make a few more wicks, or sometimes throw away the whole rest of the cotton ball.

My first month or so using the organic cotton balls I didn't "wash" them. I've read arguments both ways about it being needed. I boiled a bag in distilled water this weekend, I don't want to get too off topic with that so if you want to know about it shoot me a PM.

I have an innokin MVP and it rocks out a Kayfun at around 2 ohms, although the battery in the vv3 is smaller and has different power specs.

Definitely get the ohm meter, not just for safety but it will help you build your coils soooooo much better. It really takes it from being a hassle to being a breeze in my opinion. I tried using a multimeter at first, it was a real pain in the butt compared to the ohm meter that cost me around $14 with shipping.

Check out lightning vapes for your Kanthal A-1 wire and ohm meter. If you want to experiement with smaller quantities of wire, check Fadoravapor.com. I bought some Kanthal from popular online shops and paid about as much per foot as Compenstine sells 3 feet or 6 feet for I believe. It's been a few days since I realized how cheap it was on his site and I can't remember which it was.

Sweet-Vapes.com also has the ohm meters including the smok-tek omni tester which is really nice.

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