Earthling789
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Posts
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Posts posted by Earthling789
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1 hour ago, Bebop said:
I went from 18 nic to 3 nic my 1st year and it's been great.
After 4 years the wife has decided to quit so I'm helping her with that. I don't expect her to go cold turkey but she's stoked we've been off for 4 years and her time to quit
The good news - no pressure on me and I'm not quitting any time soon. I'm toying with the idea of 0 nic though.
I went from 24 to 18 in the first month, and was hovering at 12 by the first vaping anniversary. Right now I'm bouncing between 3 and 9, depending on the tank/coil I'm using, and even the 9mg is strong enough that I take a few hits and don't touch it for hours at a time.
My fiance isn't willing to come down from the 12mg I have her at right now... but she's only been vaping almost 2 years. She "thinks" she's vaping 15mg, but that's only because I've not changed the labels on her bottles... Bwahahahahaha
Personally, if she's happy with her 12mg, she can stay there as long as she wants 
I don't think either of us will quit vaping anytime soon... we both enjoy the flavors and we both enjoy the little bit of nicotine...
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1 minute ago, bushesent said:
What type of pharmacy do you find them in
Sent from my Z959 using Tapatalk
I've bought them from CVS and Walgreens before. They don't always carry "good" batteries... brand-name, quality, high Amp batteries... but they do occasionally have LG HE2 or HG2, and more often have Samsung 25R (green wrappers). Stick with quality batteries and you'll be fine. Your Koopor mini2 can handle 80W, so I would stick with a battery that can handle 20A loads, and never use any cheap battery in it. Your battery is the life-blood of your vaping experience... don't cheap-out or trust your life with a battery of unknown origins...
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1 hour ago, bushesent said:
How much would those battery's be on an average price for 2?
Sent from my Z959 using Tapatalk
You can find them on sale, but expect anywhere from $4-8 each to be an average price, depending on the brand and where you buy them from. I've bought most of my batteries online, but I also picked up several LG HE2 from my local pharmacy (in the medical supplies section - they are commonly used in C-pap devices and other things that require battery back-ups or portability). When I find them on sale for $8-12 per pair, I try to stock up a few extra pairs... at least once per year. Their life-span is measured in charging cycles, not years, so expect most every (quality) battery you buy to last 300 cycles, minimum, before they begin to show longer charge-times and begin to hold less and less charge. Many of the newer batteries boast 500-1000+ cycles, but they've not been out long enough for anyone to have proven they last 2-4 years of daily use, lol.
Be wary of buying batteries from eBay, or overseas online stores. If the price is too good to be true, it probably is. Batteries are a huge target for knock-offs or re-wrapped crap. Sony batteries (for a while) were the worst... for every 10 you'd buy, at least half would be clones/re-wraps/knock-offs.
The batteries sold by the VT store are guaranteed to be authentic.
As mentioned above, always label your batteries so you know when you bought it, as well as a letter or number so you can maintain rotation. All of mine get a date of purchase and a letter-code so I know which one to use next. If you use a mod that require 2 or 3 batteries, they should always ... always... be kept married, and rotated inside the device. For those, I label them with a letter for the married sets, and two numbers.... first number tells me it is a 2 or 3 battery set, and second number tells me the order... A31, A32, A33, B21, B22, etc. (you'll never find a B34 or X23) so I can keep the A's together, B's together, and rotate their position inside the device after each re-charge cycle.
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Number one... did they also give you a battery? If so, what brand/model is it? If they didn't give you one, I would suggest you buying a pair (at least) of Samsung 25R (green), LG HE2 (red), or any of the other "good" batteries out there from Samsung, LG, or Sony. There are other good ones, but those are the ones I trust.
As for tanks, a perfect starter, that will grow with you will be the Kanger Subtank Mini or Toptank mini... they're the same tank, but the top-tank can be refilled without removing it from the box-mod
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I've cleaned drop-in coils using pure-grain alcohol such as Everclear, moonshine, or Vodka over 100 Proof. The higher and purer the alcohol content the better, though. Let them soak overnight, repeat as necessary, then air-dry for another overnight period, and they are rejuvenated, but not quite good-as-new. This is mostly to remove flavor from wicks, but it will do a decent job cleaning the coil of crud.
Seriously though, with the coils I use being so cheap (and rebuildable), I don't even bother cleaning them anymore... I just grab another and toss the old one into the "rebuild later" pile.
- Cloud-9, Christopher and Tam
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I agree with @cany, it looks cool, but at 800mAh, and 4ml capacity, I don't think the battery would outlast a full tank, especially if the device is 25W only. Some (maybe most, at least most of mine) juices just won't tolerate 25W, even at 0.5 Ohm coil resistance... so I see this as a no-go in my book, even for a new vaper. If a noob started with one of these, they'd be back on analogs by the end of the day....
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If your flavor is PG based, then yes, adding 10% flavor to 90% VG will give you a 90/10 VG/PG mix.
If you're adding any nicotine, then it is best to use a calculator like the one @Walt suggested, so you can make sure you get things exactly right. But if you're shooting for zero nicotine, you can use simple math to get what you want.
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Most of the "green apple" juices I've tried are REALLY strong, and need to be mixed with something else. I use to mix mine with an equal amount of caramel or vanilla cream to soften them out.
Now that I mix my own juices, when I use tart apple flavors, I use very little, compared to other flavorings, but caramel apple or apple/vanilla/custard are a couple of my favorites. Milk chocolate and apple aren't bad together, but I still prefer a little caramel to make it pop
- smacksy and Diesel Doc
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I mix my juices in beakers or Erlenmeyer flasks... VG goes in first, then PG (if needed), and then Nicotine solution. I use a magnetic stirrer to start the mixing process for about 3-5 minutes at a very light vortex in the beaker, and then add flavorings, upping the speed to a tiny tornado-vortex. I let the whole thing mix slow for about 20-30 minutes, then fill my 30ml and 60ml amber Boston bottles
I normally mix 600ml batches (in 1000ml containers), but do the same process (in smaller 500ml flasks) for 240-300ml batches... or (larger 2000ml flasks) for 900-1500ml batches
I prefer mixing in flasks because the angled sides promotes better mixing, less spatters, and less Oxygenation of the Nicotine while it's mixing (juices don't go dark from over-aeration).
Getting a good initial mix reduces any need for steeping, although they do taste a little better after they sit for a couple days. I don't think longer steeping helps the flavor much because juices I mixed months ago taste just as good as the ones I mixed this past week. Oh, and my mixer also has a heating-plate, but I've never used it to heat juice while mixing... although I'm sure it would really bring out flavor faster... but I mix my juices weeks before I run out of something, so it's rarely vaped the day it's made, unless I'm just testing a sample, lol
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12 hours ago, FXRich said:
I did read someplace where people put little magnets on a flat top to make them into a button top, sounded a little unsafe to me, but people will be people I guess.
Those little round magnets will work like a charm to give you that extra little lift.
I have some Panasonic button-top batteries that I used for a while in my mechs, but they just run my flashlights right now... my lights will use either flat or button-top
Seriously @smacksy, if the VT store doesn't have them, or can't get them at a reasonable price from some of the battery-only suppliers... @jasonculp has a few links (I don't have mine handy) which should help you out... and FxRich is right... most button-top are limited to 10A, but in a Provari, that shouldn't be an issue since they have protection built-in, and won't fire anything below 0.8 Ohms anyway?
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My daily drivers:
- Wismec Presa 75W-TC running Ni200 0.2 Ohm coil,
- Kangertech 50W Subbox kit running 1.2 Ohm or 0.5 Ohm horizontal coils,
- Kangertech 75W-TC Topbox kit running 316L SS coil at 0.5 Ohm,
- Vaporesso Target Pro 75W-TC running 316L SS coil at 0.5 Ohm
I mostly use Subtank/Toptank minis, but also use Subtank nanos. I've got plenty of mods to rotate through, but those are just the ones on my desk at the moment :D
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Here is one I made for storing tanks and a couple of eGo-style batteries, for a fellow member... It is made with a 4x6 piece of scrap Poplar, holes drilled, and the round eGo stands are round closet door knobs I picked up in a box-lot some years ago... everything sanded, stained, and sealed with satin polyurethane.
I've made several more of different sizes... using scrap wood... This 4x4" block holds 16 tanks up to 23mm size, and still has room between them for EVOD size (16-18mm) tanks (and you can also see another re-purposed door knob glued to a small disk which was left over from cutting a hole):
- james.darlin, Tam and Walt
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I took an old cigar humidor (as I don't need it anymore) and lined it with royal blue velvet, and use it to display my mech-mods (sorry, no pics). Sadly, it just sits on the shelf and nobody really ever sees it (including me), so it was a nice project, but in reality, wasted time/money... because I could have sold the humidor to a cigar smoker and not wasted time and money converting it to a "display case" that is never seen.
The rest of my stuff is sitting on a shelf in my office (five 5' adjustable, wall-mounted shelving from Lowes)... mostly just the juices I'm using daily and mods/tanks I use frequently. Everything else I have is boxed up in their original packaging and sitting on another shelf, in case I need them, or want to sell them or pay them forward to a new vaper that needs a helping hand. The shelves are so I could have a place for things like vape gear and office supplies, printer, fax, as well as my model cars and other gadgets... on the wall in my office, rather than in boxes or all over my desk. :D
The 4-5 tanks I use in regular rotation are sitting on a block of wood (with 3/8" holes drilled for the 510 connection to sit into). The block is sanded, stained, routed-edge, and looks decent enough. The mods I use are just sitting next to it. Batteries are in plastic boxes so I can grab them in proper rotation. All of these things are on my desk, in front of my PC monitors for easy access. I also have a Nitecore i2 charger on my desk, and two i4 chargers on the shelf.
It's not much of a "display" per-se, but it's not like I'm making a big presentation for visitors... it's just basic organization for my own needs. 2-3 three-foot shelves store a LOT of stuff...
All of my juice mixing supplies are stored in the mini-fridge in my office, and glassware is on a smaller shelf above the fridge, so I can mix juices as I need
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If you are in stealth-mode, it will still fire and work, but the screen will be blank. If it still works, do what @FXRich said and that will take it back to "normal" mode. If it doesn't fire, then stealth-mode isn't the issue... you may just have a defective unit and it will need to be returned under warranty.
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I've shopped a lot of online stores, and for a long time, VapeNW, VapeRoyalty, 101Vape, and Sweet-Vapes got most of my hardware business, but I must say... now that @Christopher has taken the reins back on the VT Store, I've not spent a dime at any of those other sites (and don't plan to unless I have to)!
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YAY! My Vaporesso Target Pro and e-Pipe kit arrived today! Can't wait to try the Target Pro... and the pipe will likely never see use, but will be a really cool addition to my vaping-gear display
- Christopher and Walt
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Looks like that worked... going through "orders"... because nothing else was working, lol
Payment made!
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In a Kanthal or NiChrome coil, I prefer 1.2 Ohm as my ADV coil, but if I'm using TC mode, I use 316L SS at 0.3 - 0.5 Ohm or Ni200 at 0.15 - 0.2 Ohm
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@ChristopherFor what it's worth... the link for the pipe kit in "my auctions" is a different link than the one in my email, and says "closed" next to it. The link has _trashed/ at the end of the URL. Does that mean the auction closed early or was removed, yet continued to completion in the background with my high bid?
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10 minutes ago, Tam said:
It was probably the Kanger ProTank 2 that I won, lol.
LOL, I didn't even bid on that one.... I still have two in a box that I'm not using in my rotation because I've pretty much switched to subtank minis as my primary
2 hours ago, Christopher said:Hey Earthling, sorry about that. It sounds as if the item was purchased by someone else/outbid. Can you tell me what the item was? If it's showing under "my auctions" but doesn't show "pay now" it generally means someone else received the item. (But I'll need to know what item to be sure.
The item I won was the e-pipe kit, which still does not show in my cart, nor does the email link to "pay now".
You are the winner!
Congratulations Earthling789, you are the winner of the auction product:
eCigarette Pipe - New Please, proceed to checkout
I also just won the Vapresso Target mod/kit, and it DOES show in my cart. I'd love to pay for them at the same time to combine shipping?
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@Christopher I've won an auction, but when I check my cart or auction progress, there's no way to pay you for it (nothing in my cart). I tried the link provided in the "you won" email notice, but it also says my cart is empty. When I click the icon for that auction item in "my auctions", it gives me the dreaded 404 error.
Another unrelated issue... which could be nothing... but I bid on an item, got outbid, but when I tried to go back in and bid again, there was no place to enter a bid amount, even though the auction hadn't ended yet. This happened on Monday.
Smok TFV8 Baby Beast coil recommendations, please!
in General Vaping Discussion
Posted
First of all... WOW TAM! You pulled the trigger on a Baby Beast! Congrats!
Yes, there is a difference in heat produced from sub-ohm coils. Honestly, If I'm going to go below 0.3 Ohms, I drop to 3mg Nicotine or less, and use Temp Control. A 0.25 Ohm Kanthal coil is much hotter (to me) than a 0.2 Ohm SS coil at the same Wattage. And some tanks I've used (The Arctic comes to mind) would set me on fire even at the low power of 16-20W using their 0.2 Ohm ceramic coil. When all things are equal (type of col), lower Ohms and higher Wattage do tend to maintain the same vapor/heat sensation, although you do have to open the air and reduce your Nicotine because Nicotine absorbs faster as you lower resistance (heat it faster/hotter). 1.8 Ohm and 18mg Nicotine are virtually equal to 0.3 Ohm and 3mg... although to get the same vapor and heat, you do have to increase power to the lower Ohm coil... obviously
Nicotine absorption and heat are not exactly linear progressions, but they are close enough for gov't work 
I don't have a Baby Beast (yet), so I can't give better advice, but my first thoughts are the usual... longer drip tip, lower Nicotine, higher VG, more air, slower/faster draw... and the best advice is to use TC! Dialing down the temperature is a real key for me when using the Subtank Minis. When I'm using 0.15 Ni200 coils, I can crank up the heat to 500F (prefer around 450F), but when I use 0.2 Ohm SS coils, I find the exact same heat and vapor can be achieved at 380F. I've wrapped my own SS coils at 0.15 Ohm and can push those above 400F, but not much more before it feels like I'm drinking scalding hot tea
If your mod has TCR mode, you can use TC with almost any coil. What type of wire are the Q2 coils made from?