Rixter
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Posts posted by Rixter
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...I smoked for about 50 years so my taste buds are shot.
I smoked for 35 years and it took almost two years of being off cigarettes before I started to experience a good sense of smell and taste. It takes a while for some people I guess, but it's well worth the wait!
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It depends on the individual flavoring that you're using. I have some flavors that require as much as 20% and some more concentrated ones that 2% does the trick. Your supplier (or Google) should be able to tell you what the recommended range is for each of their flavorings. I typically go a little beyond their suggestions because I'm all about intense flavoring, but go too far and your juice will start tasting "chemical".
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Almost all of the people who I come into contact with are completely dissatisfied with the way things are going in this country, and almost all of them say they didn't vote because their vote doesn't matter anyway.
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Thanks Chris.
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Yes Rixter there are a lot of uninformed morons that will vote
...as evidenced by the last two elections.
But, but we need a woman president! *sarcasm*
Yeah...I love that one, too.
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I'm pretty sure it's going to be another Bush vs. Clinton this time around, and although I can't explain it, I think there are enough moronic voters out there (there...I said it!) to put Hillary behind the wheel regardless of how many lies she gets caught in. What has happened to this country? If I had the means, I'd move to Canada.
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I typically set my TC mod at 20 watts...it seems to hit my target temp pretty quickly when I'm set at 420°F. It won't hurt anything to up your wattage, but if you keep an eye on your screen, you'll notice that it drops your power back to below 20 watts pretty fast.
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If you're getting a burnt taste and your cotton isn't the culprit, then it has to be that your juice doesn't like the temperature that you've set for a limit. Try backing it down to 400°F and bring it up from there until it's warm enough for your taste but doesn't taste burnt.
BTW - Although it won't hurt anything, It's not necessary to set your wattage so high (60W) because as soon as your mod hits its temp limit, you should notice that it will start throttling your power back to maintain the temp limit.
Also, the reason that TC still works with twisted Kanthal A1 and nickel wire is because current travels the path of least resistance, which in this case is the nickel wire.
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What kind of wire are you using and what gauge is it?
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The flow rate on this thing is incredible. Blows the sub mini away.
Twice the wicking...dual-coil build deck on the Zephyrus versus single-coil on the Subtank Mini.
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Now if they would just change that red top-fill plug out for a gasket that stays inside the removable top cap, it would be so much simpler to fill.
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Looks like our nickel-build problem might just have been solved for us. Zephyrus Ni-200 coils are going to be available soon.
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I feel like even though the Heatvape's stated lower limit is .1Ω for Ni200 builds, if it will fire and not tell you to check the atomizer, then you're probably alright. Your device is only going to adjust the voltage to provide enough power to the coil to accommodate your set temp limit, so if I were you, I'd wick it up and give it a shot. I'm sure that if your coils drop in resistance from usage to a point below what it can handle, your device will tell you to check your atomizer.
Maybe gloves and goggles might be in order, though. lol
Got any pics?
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Just curious, Rix, is your Dad getting into building his own coils too?
Lord, I hope not!!!
I'm looking at the Zephyrus mainly because I can put a nickel build in it for TC and not have to worry about him running his tank dry and burning his wick to ashes...over and over again!!! The top-fill design is also a must for him.
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By my calculations, each .2Ω 3mm 28g 1mm-spaced 15/14 Ni200 coil (whew...that's a mouthful!) would be just over 6mm long.
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I'm thinking about buying a UD Zephyrus for my dad to use with his new TC mod, but I'm looking for some input from dual-coil nickel-build Zephyrus RDA users first.
Since spaced 28g Ni200 coils would have to be fairly long to get the total dual-coil load above .1Ω (I'm guessing ~15 x 3mm wraps per coil), does the Zephyrus' RBA build deck provide enough room for them to fit comfortably?
If you have used the described build, please provide your coil specs (I.D., wrap count, gauge, etc.) and pics if possible.
Thanks.
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These CLR heads work beautifully. I just got a couple and loaded one with a nickel (Ni200) build to use with my temp. control mod. The 28g 2.5mm 11/10 unspaced coil I wrapped metered at .1Ω exactly. It's wicked with JOC and with the eGo ONE's airflow control wide open, it's as easy as breathing...fantastic airflow.
BTW - I just saw where Joyetech has heads for the eGo ONE clearomizer with your choice of nickel or titanium coils for use on TC mods. Very cool.
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I've been looking for a good RTA/clearo for my dad, but he hasn't really taken to any of my offerings because he feels like they don't provide enough airflow resistance (too airy) for his mouth-to-lung style of vaping. My eGo One tank can by adjusted for the airflow restriction that suits him, but it's not a top-fill design so it's not as easy to top off.
Does the Zephyrus provide a decent restricted airflow setting for puffers as well as one for the openness that chuckers prefer?
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How does it do with dark, sweet juices? Does that gunk up the nickle coil just as fast as Kanthal?
I haven't seen any crud on my nickel coils so far. My preferred juices aren't very dark in color, but some are pretty sweet (like Clockwerk's Custard and Monkey Spunk).
It probably has a lot to do with keeping the coil temp in check and not letting it get as hot as vaping without TC allows. The juice just doesn't appear to "bake" onto the coil as much.
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Just wanted to drop a few lines about my thoughts on temperature control and nickel wire as of late.
I've been using a Heatvape Invader Mini 50W with an eGo ONE 1.8ml tank (rebuilt .15Ω Ni200 coil/JOC wick) as my ADV for about 6 weeks now, and it's been a great setup for me. This is the best vape I've had to date because now, every time I hit the fire button, I get a consistent, satisfying vape. I've not had a single dry hit (even when accidentally running my tank bone-dry a few times), and I've also not noticed any "coloring" of my juices' flavor from the nickel coils (tastes like
chicken...er, Kanthal). In addition, the sheer number of coil-wraps required to meet my mod's minimum TC load using such a low-resistance wire makes for a coil with a lot of surface area from which to provide vapor.Nickel coil resistances can be a little dodgy from build to build, but that's easily compensated for by increases/decreases in the power and temperature settings of the TC mod. I can pretty much adjust the mod's settings to make each new build perform like the last build, so nickel's (apparent) inconsistency is not really that much of an issue.
For rebuilding my eGo ONE's coil head, I make 12 wraps of 28g Ni200 around a 3mm Kuro coiler, and then tug a little on the leads to get a slight space between the wraps. That usually puts me in the vicinity of .15Ω, which is comfortably above the .1Ω minimum TC resistance of my mod.
Vaping with temperature control technology has been pleasurable for me at least, and as more and more reasonably-priced and reliable devices pop up on the scene, I feel like it might just change the way vapers enjoy vapor...
...but that's just my opinion...what's yours?
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Best thing is to don't mod batteries... Manufacturers are getting very good at building them, and honestly they are better at it.
It is just called a "mod"...it doesn't mean it has been modified in any way.
Youde Zephyrus
in Sub oHm
Posted
Exactly.