Rixter
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Posts posted by Rixter
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Innevape's Vape My Day Product Description:
Butterscotch, Caramel, touch of Hazelnut. Smooth, Velvety, melt-in-your-mouth good.
They also have Private Stock, which is, "The same great flavor of Vape My Day aged 90 days in a wood-fired oak barrel then triple filtered to create a smooth, full-bodied experience like nothing you've vaped before."
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Just now, cany said:
...Tried to replicate the butterscotch,caramel,Hint of Hazelnut I use too buy from the B&M its pretty darn close...
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Provari 2.5 gunmetal with optional 18650 extension cap, bought new and used less than a week $70.00 shipped lower 48
Got any pics?
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...Went to the dentist today and hardly had any plack on my teeth but she said vape is about as bad on teeth!
Uninformed dentist, or at the very least, uneducated in the facts of real-world vaping and buying in to Big Tobacco & Big Pharmaceutical propaganda. Mine said my teeth have never looked better. Same story with every vapor I know. Also, my M.D. said that whatever it is I've been doing lately, keep it up. I want my medical professionals to look at all the facts before regurgitating BT & BP talking points.
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At the link I posted previously, it's allowing me to put one in my cart. Are you sure that they're out of stock?
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I'm still test driving it, but so far, it's been a great tank. It gurgles for a few minutes after filling it, but the gurgling stops pretty fast once you start vaping with it. I ordered some Ni200 coils that should be here in a couple of days. When they arrive, I plan to swap out the RTA section with a factory coil head and give it to him if it still performs well. I just want to make sure that it's a hassle-free tank before I do.
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Your mod's temperature setting is going be based on several variables, but it really just comes down to how warm you like your vapor. Just keep in mind that dry cotton has a flash point of around 420°F, so that's a good place to start. Once your cotton wick has been exposed to e liquid, it usually won't char at higher temperatures (500°F-600°F), even when you accidentally run the tank dry. You'll notice a major decrease in vapor production long before you'll burn your wick..
As far as wattage settings go, there's really not much need to go past 30 watts because your mod's just going to dial your wattage back down once your coil reaches its per-determined temperature setting. At 30 watts and 450°F, my Aspire Triton Tank's coil ramps up quickly and gives me a thick, warm, flavorful vape. On My eGo ONE tank, 400°F is about as high as I want to go. My Kanger Subtank Mini shines at 550°F. Different tanks behave...differently.
Hope this helps.
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I just bought an Aspire Triton and RBA head to see if it would be a good tank to give to my dad to use on his Heatvape Invader Mini. Since he's never sub-ohmed before, I installed the 1.8Ω coil head into the base and filled it up, and it vapes really well. I'm impressed, and I'm sure he'll love it since it's a top-fill tank.
After vaping on it for a while, I decided to put a cotton wrapped vertical nickel coil in the RBA head to use in TC mode, but I don't know if I can swap out the heads while there's still juice in the tank. Has anyone tried swapping heads in a full tank before?
I'm going to go ahead and answer my own question for anyone interested.
Obviously, you'll need to leave the fill/vape dial in the vape position or your juice will spill out under the drip tip. With the tank upside down, as long as the juice level is below the juice flow holes on the internal stem, you'll have no problems swapping coil heads without having to drain the tank first.
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i found the missing piece woohoo
Did you get it back together yet?
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...I designed my new setup: A 12 volt Die Hard battery connected through an HO train set rheostat to a MacPherson strut coil spring installed in a copper moonshine still tank, and liquid by the liter. Barring that, a 12 volt solar water tank coil, installed in a 20 gallon Sears mobile home electric water heater with a plug for all the holes except the hot water egress and screwed into that would be a series of descending diameter pipes ending with a designer tip...
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If I'm not mistaken, those are parts from a Subtank Mini...not a Nano. Their parts are not interchangeable.
Could you post one more pic of the Nano's top cap placed upside down or on its side? That way we can see if the air stem is still attached to the top piece and if the top O-ring is still in place.
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Here's another pic of the Nano's individual parts.
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If the stem was in the top part shouldnt it be standing a lot higher than the coil in the pic?
Other than it's shadow (which seems to support my previous statement), how can you be certain of how tall something is in a two-dimensional pic?
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If thats all the parts you have you seem to be missing a few
I'm pretty sure that the top piece is shown standing upright on the stem (I don't believe said stem is removable...I could be wrong
) and the missing (from view) O-ring may still be inside the top piece. Replacement O-rings are readily available online, though (in a variety of colors). -
When unscrewing the base to refill the tank, you need to make sure that you're gripping the airflow control base with one hand and the lower metal tank base (the one that is closest to the bottom of the glass section) with the other hand. Otherwise, you stand the chance of disassembling the tank section (like what happened in your case) as you would if you were cleaning the tank. Hope this helps.
It should come apart like this when refilling.
Here's the exploded view of the Nano's individual parts. Notice how the Top Piece's stem threads into the Glass Base Piece's bracket to hold the Glass slugly in-between.
By the way, make sure to have both (red) gaskets in place or you won't get a good seal and your tank will leak e liquid.
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Your question is a little vague. Could you be a little more specific and possibly provide a picture or two of the tank you're having problems with?
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Just wondering how you users of the Triton RTA section like it.
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Any RTA that's good for 100+ watts?
in The Vape Lounge - Off Topic Chat
Posted
I'm trying to figure out why you would want to vape at 200 watts. I mean, your mod may produce 200 watts, but 30 watts per coil (provided your airflow is completely unrestricted) is far above what's needed to produce thick clouds of vapor.