FXRich Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 I'm what's called semi retired, got extra time on my hands. I keep myself busy in my machine shop 2 or 3 days a week. I am considering designing a tank and I don't want to copy someone else. Don't know if I should go with 19mm or 23mm diameter or maybe put a air control just below the drip tip. I know I don't want to build replacement coils, so plan on using kpt2 coils, or maybe a rebuilbable. I do have CNC machines but know I can't compete with China. Any ideas would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 I would do a 22mm tank or rebuildable since most mods are made for that diameter.i think the RDA would be a fun project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) I considered starting with Teflon drip tips, but enough of them out there already. It will defiantly be a challenge to build a better RDA. Even better would be a RDA that converts to a RTA Edited May 11, 2015 by FXRich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adversarious1 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) I considered starting with Teflon drip tips, but enough of them out there already. It will defiantly be a challenge to build a better RDA. Even better would be a RDA that converts to a RTAI was actually sitting in my favorie local vape shop last night with a couple friends when the shop manager (also a friend) showed me a couple of rather innovative looking rdas that are getting ready to hit the streets. I won't mention names, but I will tell you this much...both had side screws in the base rather than the traditional posts. They both looked like they would be a lot of fun to build on. The problems...one is going to sell for $150, the other has no juice well. Literally no juice well. Just a flat deck. But if you want to think that direction...side screws in the base for the coils with the coils mounting in the base (but with a juice well), it might be something worth looking into. Other ideas I have been throwing at my brother (who is also a machinist) basically involve top fill sub-ohm tanks with two completely separate bases...one that uses factory coils (a la Kanger sub tank, Aspire Atlantis, Horizon Arctic, etc.) and the other base would be an RTA, like the Kayfun or Lemo. Literally two completely different bases, not like the sub tank that uses factory coils but has the rta option that goes in the same base. Just some ideas. Edited May 11, 2015 by Adversarious1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 I would like to keep the price as low as possible but using 304 stainless might drive the price above $30.00 The idea of side screws is a good one. A convertible base is something worth considering too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adversarious1 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Just throwing ideas out there. My brother, (who has absolutely zero interest in vaping but fully supports my vaping as long as it keeps me off analogs) has already asked me if I'd like him to take a look at my Arctic and my Herakles because he knows he can replicate and combine the best features of each into a single tank. Also forgot to mention in my other post that I agree with Tug on the 22mm. It seems to be the "standard" most are shooting for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 The only reason I was thinking 23mm is because my evic is 23mm, but not much difference so 22mm it will probably be. A big advantage to a RBA over a RTA is no glass to buy. Is there a big difference between vertical and horizontal coils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adversarious1 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 The size difference actually makes sense. Both of my mech mod's are larger than 22mm in diameter and a 23mm atty would look great on either. I haven't built any vertical coils on any of my rba's. From what I remember though, the Herakles coils are vertical and the Kanger OCC coils are horizontal. I get better vapor and flavor from a .6 ohm coil in the Herakles than I do from a .5 ohm coil in the subtank I still have a brand new UD igo w8 in it's box that is a prime candidate for vertical coil builds. I'd be more than happy to do a vertical build comparable to my typical horizontal builds and check the differences though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 The reason I'd like to go with vertical coils is it would make the machining easier. Connect one end of the coil to the base and the other to the center post, if the hole the coil end goes into is large enough the number of coils is only limited by space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Not sure what you mean by airflow below the drip tip. Coil must be between airflow and drip tip. I would study other designs and see what could be improved. Remember, todays big selling designs are that way for a reason. The two biggest factors everyone wants are satisfaction from clouds and flavor. Recent pluses in designs: Dual coil RTA Airflow control Bottom feed Sub ohm made easy High performance plug and play coils Temp control Aesthetic design Complaints: Coil life Airflow Flavor Compatible interchange Exclusivity/proprietary design Mechanical function/connectivity I envy you having access to equipment to do this. You could end up making a desirable product with a custom design. Imho you don't have to reinvent the wheel - design around readily had components. Make it pleasing aesthetically. Make it functional with well fitting components, make it east to work on. Just my first thoughts Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adversarious1 Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 (edited) Not sure what you mean by airflow below the drip tip. Coil must be between airflow and drip tip. I think he means something similar to the new Atlantis V2: Edited May 11, 2015 by Adversarious1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Interesting. How does that work? I still see airflow on bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Compenstine Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 It lets air in as you draw people call it "Slip Streaming" taking air in from the side of your mouth as you draw so you can take a lung hit when you have a tighter draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 That's about what I had in mind. I heard some people drill holes in the drip tip to increase air flow and thought if it was adjustable it would be a plus. Haven't seen that before, looks like I'm late to the game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 So I used a friends Atlantis 2 the other day,and honestly I thought the whole adjustable airflow drip tip was a gimmick.I was so wrong,it makes a huge difference especially with the .3 coils.Makes it really smooth on the inhale and cools it down quite a bit.ill get one eventually Bebop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthling789 Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 If you're talking RDA, something I'd love to see would be screw posts like on a motorcycle battery... where the screw "lifts" a block upwards against the solid wall.. where you can get larger diameter coils in the slots, or get multiple coil legs easily into the slot and compress them firmly for the best connection! Bonus points if the screws are Allen-head or wings. I'm getting tired of stripping-out tiny-a##, weak Philips-head screws Tug, Bebop and jasonculp 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 I figured I'd use the hardest sst screws I can lay my hands on. Another reason I'd like to use vertical coils is I want to be able to adjust the height of the center post to match the length of the coils. Still researching stuff. Would room for 4 coils be too much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirage Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 If you're talking RDA, something I'd love to see would be screw posts like on a motorcycle battery... where the screw "lifts" a block upwards against the solid wall.. where you can get larger diameter coils in the slots, or get multiple coil legs easily into the slot and compress them firmly for the best connection! Bonus points if the screws are Allen-head or wings. I'm getting tired of stripping-out tiny-a##, weak Philips-head screws HELL YES!!!...LOL Earthling789 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Compenstine Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 My thought is to use a Magnet Pin. No screwdriver needed. Yes they do make them small enough to work. Quick drawing in MSPaint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Sounds like a good idea on the pins, only drawback might be stainless steel is non magnetic the only thing holding the pin in would be the wire, kanthal A1 losses its magnetic properties at 600 C the wire would not get that hot under normal circumstances but might lose its magnetic properties over time. might be worth trying though. Nichrome might not be magnetic at all haven't checked into that. My first thought was to use a set screw that way a allen wrench could be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) This is as far as I got so far. The threaded holes below the coils are for screws that hold stuff together from below, they will have 0.050 holes in them for air flow. all the screws are 6-32 the coils might need to be higher. Edited May 19, 2015 by FXRich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Yes raise those coils. That sucker gonna get hotter than a pistol looks like. Cool look though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 I thought they might be too low, only .100 from base to bottom of coil, coils are 26g with 2mm id don't ask me what ohm they are. Also think I should change the posts from 0.188 diameter to 0.140 diameter and change the set screw to a 4-40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) Wait......how'd you work out the posts? Or have you yet? (Positive/neg) Edited May 19, 2015 by Bebop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FXRich Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) I haven't put anything into metal yet, best to figure it out on paper first. The holes for the coil are 1/4 in apart Back to the drawing board If you could look close enough you would see a insulator under the post on the left. Edited May 19, 2015 by FXRich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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