FXRich

Another way to look at is a 1.5 ohm coil at 9W runs 3.7V, a .5 coil at 32W runs 4V, so a .5 coil will run 2.1V at 9W which probably isn't enough to get it hot very fast.
Not much difference between 3.7V and 4V.

Your .5 coil is made of wire that is a heavier gauge than the 1.5 coil, so there is more metal to heat than the lighter gauge wire, An example would be when welding with a heavier wire you need more amps then with a lighter wire.
I use temperature control most of the time, and it takes more watts to keep the temp at what I want when using a heavier gauge metal than with a lighter gauge wire.
I'm not very good at explaining things so I might have confused you even more.

Some mods have a lower efficiency factor than other mods. what is meant by that is that some chipsets use more power than others to operate the mod. Mods use a certain amount of power just to light up the screen, and to provide other functions. the more power the mod uses to power the  chipset the shorter the battery life. That may be the reason, or it may not be the reason.
I hope my explanation is not too confusing. 

Some mods have a lower efficiency factor than other mods. what is meant by that is that some chipsets use more power than others to operate the mod. Mods use a certain amount of power just to light up the screen, and to provide other functions. the more power the mod uses to power the  chipset the shorter the battery life. That may be the reason, or it may not be the reason.
I hope my explanation is not too confusing. 

@Edna You said the batteries seem "fatter"...  Are you 100% certain your Sony batteries are "authentic"?  I only say that because the Sony VTC5 were probably the most counterfeited battery in the past couple of years   Fatter batteries may or may not indicate a counterfeit, but to me it would be a reason to have doubt....
I have four (authentic) VTC4 left, and they are all still functioning near-new after 2.5 years (and over 300 charge cycles), which is actually better than a couple of my LG HE2's (which seem to lose charge pretty fast these days), despite them being only a year old and have gone through only 100-120 charge cycles.  Even a couple of my Samsung 25R (blue) are starting to wear down in capacity, but they still hold out 3/4 to all day, and they're all 1.5-2 years old with well over 200 charge cycles each.
I've heard others say their RX 200, 200s, or 2/3 behave the same way (lasting only a day or less, even with 3 batteries), and others may get a couple days, but I suspect they are using a much higher resistance coil, or aren't chain-vaping it?  High battery drain and the size/weight of it... along with always having to carry 3-6 extra batteries instead of 1-2... have been the reasons I've not bought one, lol.   Then again, I'm perfectly happy vaping my 1.2 Ohm coils in a 50-75W single-battery mod... TC or Wattage-mode... I'm good either way

I also use flavor west or TFA and they also have MSDS sheets or list any questionable ingredients in their product overview then it's at purchasers discretion.

The only thing that I put in my DIY juice that may contain chemicals is the flavoring, Most flavor makers list the ingredients of their flavors.
I use Flavor West mostly, and they have MSDS sheets on their products, also certificates of analysis which lists what is in the flavor.

It is recommended by the manufacturer to charge the RX200 batteries with a external charger, I don't have a heat problem unless I use the usb 3.0 port instead of one of the 2.0 ports. I also sometimes use my cell phone charger to charge them, my cell phone has a 850 mah battery so the 3000 mah batteries charge slower, and don't even get warm. I also remove the battery cover on the mod while charging just to make sure they don't get hot, but with the 160w dripbox I can't remove the cover while charging, and it doesn't get hot.
All the mods I have came with a usb cord, and they all look the same to me.

You can try this one http://www.kritikalmass.net/proddetail.asp?prod=Spiced-Apple-Cider

I use 6 Kanger Subtank minis in rotation, and use the RBA exclusively in all of them. Never had one leak that was not user error, or when I left it in a hot car. They have been a good tank for me.

Welcome to VT
Don't know about having more experience, because I'm not familiar with your hardware either. I started vaping after having a couple of stent implants in February of 09 (can't believe its been that long). I started with a Volt setup, and quickly moved on to a better setup when they became available, now I use mostly subtanks, and turned my habit into a hobby, I traded smoking for shinyitus, better for my health, but not for the wallet.
In my opinion the hand to mouth habit is just as hard to kick as the nicotine habit. Some vaping hardware is better quality than others, you may have to get better hardware before you can completely kick the ciggy habit. I'm not going to suggest what you should buy, because only you know what you need and want. There are plenty of other people here that will help you spend your life savings on quality vape gear.

Welcome to VT
Don't know about having more experience, because I'm not familiar with your hardware either. I started vaping after having a couple of stent implants in February of 09 (can't believe its been that long). I started with a Volt setup, and quickly moved on to a better setup when they became available, now I use mostly subtanks, and turned my habit into a hobby, I traded smoking for shinyitus, better for my health, but not for the wallet.
In my opinion the hand to mouth habit is just as hard to kick as the nicotine habit. Some vaping hardware is better quality than others, you may have to get better hardware before you can completely kick the ciggy habit. I'm not going to suggest what you should buy, because only you know what you need and want. There are plenty of other people here that will help you spend your life savings on quality vape gear.

Actually I wanted the smaller kit that just included the RDA, but didn't want to wait for Chris to get them in stock. The smaller kit with just the RDA parts is about half the price. With the survival kit you get enough parts to build 2 tanks, I don't know yet what I'm going to do with the Nautilus X yet I may use it or PIF it.

The pin comes with the 24mm, but has to be ordered separately for the 22mm, at least that's the way I see it on various sites. 
I guess the 22mm plus comes with a squonk pin, but its almost as much as the Aspire kit.

I have looked at them, but only the 24mm comes with a squonk pin, and I wanted a 22mm. I ended up with a Aspire RDA, and that seems to work great for me. At least the aspire has a well to hold juice, which the Kanger RDA doesn't have a well.
And the 60w coil decks will interchange with the 160w, its the same RDA. 

Today I got a Aspire Quad Flex survival kit from the VT store, been using it on my 160w dripbox it seems to work better than the RDA that came with the mod. The RDA that came with the mod didn't have a well, The Aspire RDA has a well which helps a lot. I went through the 7 ml squonk bottle in a couple of hours, its a juice hog, but that's ok because I DIY my juice.

I use 6 Kanger Subtank minis in rotation, and use the RBA exclusively in all of them. Never had one leak that was not user error, or when I left it in a hot car. They have been a good tank for me.

I use 6 Kanger Subtank minis in rotation, and use the RBA exclusively in all of them. Never had one leak that was not user error, or when I left it in a hot car. They have been a good tank for me.

I use 6 Kanger Subtank minis in rotation, and use the RBA exclusively in all of them. Never had one leak that was not user error, or when I left it in a hot car. They have been a good tank for me.

I use 6 Kanger Subtank minis in rotation, and use the RBA exclusively in all of them. Never had one leak that was not user error, or when I left it in a hot car. They have been a good tank for me.

I got tired of drilling them out, now I use a 3mm or maybe its a 1/8 inch jewelers file to make the holes bigger. Works for me, and I don't have to go out to the shop to do it. 

I got a 50 pack of OCC coils from FT, so did a few others here. I believe they are Kanger seconds, or possibly over production. The bodies, gaskets, and pins are identical to Kanger coils, but the coil that's inside isn't the best. I even got one with no threads. But I bought them to rebuild, and they work great for that. I did find that when rebuilding OCC coils Rayon works better for me than cotton. Some people don't like the rayon, but I do, and $14 at sally's beauty supply buys a lifetime supply.

I got a 50 pack of OCC coils from FT, so did a few others here. I believe they are Kanger seconds, or possibly over production. The bodies, gaskets, and pins are identical to Kanger coils, but the coil that's inside isn't the best. I even got one with no threads. But I bought them to rebuild, and they work great for that. I did find that when rebuilding OCC coils Rayon works better for me than cotton. Some people don't like the rayon, but I do, and $14 at sally's beauty supply buys a lifetime supply.

I have looked at rebuilding the round vertical Kanger coils, but have not tried it yet, they look to be a PITA to rebuild. I like the old square horizontal coils for rebuilding, they are easy to rebuild and have good flavor. The big drawback to the square horizontal coils is Kanger quit making them. There are clones available from FT, but they are not as good as the Kanger coils, even though they are stamped Kangertech, but for rebuilding purposes the are just as good as the Kanger coils. A while back I ordered 10 Kanger RBAs from FT, 2 of them didn't work well and ended up keeping them for parts for the other RBAs I have.

Ordered the Quad Flex survival kit today along with a pack of Dripbox coils, Hopefully the aspire RDA will work better than the RDA that came with the 160w Dripbox. I guess next week I'll find out.