DJ Colonel Corn

Vaping is about making an informed choice. Information like this ^^^ helps in making that choice, thank you for posting this.

Awesome review Colonel. These things are pretty cool. My B&M has carried the larger ones for some time now and those things would just be way too bulky for me to carry around. The mini could be a little more portable. I'm an outdoorsman and need something like this.

From what I read, I don't think he had an issue with vv or vw outputs, I think it boils down to the fact that the device wouldn't fire a 1.0 Ohm coil. He was forced to use a coil that was on it's last leg and getting a burnt flavor the whole time. Hopefuly with new, apropriate coils it will resolve itself.

Vapor, you are correct though. VW= set and enjoy pretty much. VV=adjust to taste between tanks. Both may need adjustment with different e liquids.

From what I understand, setting both wattage and voltage doesn't matter because you can only use one mode or the other. Wattage setting is for switching tanks, say I have a 1.5ohm coil and I like the hit at 10watts, well if I switch to a 2.1ohm coil and leave it at 10watts it should hit the same as my 1.5ohm coil. Voltage however is going to give the same current no matter what my resistance, so a 1.5 ohm coil at 6v might taste burnt where as a 2.1ohm coil might hit fine.

Basically, voltage will put out that set voltage through any coil, wattage makes your hits consistent when switching different ohm coils without having to adjust.

Check the Kangside http://www.esmoke-ksd.com/cp_view.asp?id=192 web site. You may have a clone. Their website only has 3 units pictured. Stainless polished, stainless brushed and what looks like gun metal. the only markings on it are 20W/Vamo. They are VW only devices.

Their website even lists copycat sellers. FastTech being one of them.

It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
Current = voltage divided by resistance
Resistance = voltage divided by current
Power = voltage multiplied by current

Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a standard atty;
5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a LR atty;
5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

A 6v device with a standard atty;
6v / 3ohms = 2amps
6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

A 6v device with a HV atty;
6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.

I just recently got into vw devices. I picked up a vtr. From what I understand you either choose vv or vw, not both. When you use vw and set a wattage the device reads what ohm your coil is and uses ohms law to set the voltage automatically. I recommend reading up on ohms law and vaping.
Good luck
Garrett

This makes total sense.

With your mechanical mod (Panzer) you are putting out a nominial 3.7v with a 1.7ohm coil. This only generates 8 watts of power.

On you elvt you set it at 11.5 watts this means the boost circuit inside your elvt boosts the battery voltage from 3.7 to 4.4Volts. There are also many other variables in an electronic box. If it is calculating the wattage based on Mean rather than RMS the output could even be greater.

The low ohm coils on your Panzer is why you use a mechanical mod. It is to overcome the electronic restrictions that the elvt puts in place for safety.
With your .5 ohm coil it is putting out 27 watts.

I really don't know your experience level with electronics, or mechanical mods, but don't forget ohm's law.

Please read this post on ohm's law:

and use these calculators (or a phone app) to do the calculations: http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php or http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp

Remember, on a mechanical mod the only way you can make a hotter vape is to lower the resistance (ohms) of the coil to produce more watts. On the elvt you can only go so low on your coil, but the voltage can be turned up higher than the battery voltage because of Pulse Width Modulation, but it has a voltage limit on the top end for safety.

I hope this is a little clearer than mud....

Not just added..the big news is that VAPE is the word of the year , this will shed much light in the public view of what we are really doing, thank god

Hello fellow vapers.
Not much to discuss about it, I suppose, but.....

"Vape" and "Vaping" were just added to the Oxford Dictionary !

Click here to read the story.

A little good news on this thread should be refreshing !

I am personally not into those type of devices, but appreciate the effort you put into a good review.

Thanks.

You think the Chinese ones are the worst yet the ones you linked are made in China

Fixed! Thanks for reporting

*embarrased*...... haven't seen the video yet. Will watch it tonight, been very busy.
Within 1 volt isn't so accurate when we have measurements going in .1 increments.
Well, so , I will watch the vid and perhaps comment more.
Listen, I'm interested too !! This E-huge has got me lookin at stuff I never saw before, and is WAY over my head.
I put pics up in the e-cigarrette pic forum of it, if you wanna check it out !

Welcome to the vape side we have juices lol

Please don't get me wrong, the voltage reading is close. Like in Phil's video, the volts were off by 1 volt at low voltage, and much closer at the higher ones.

I hate to say I have kind of become obsessed with this subject now. I have been reading everything I can find about boost/buck circuits in ecigs. What makes this so bad is that I have no desire to build my own circuit or mod for that matter. It is just curiosity. If I did build one, it would be a dual 18650 fully mechanical with no wires.

With the Sigelei 100W for around $100 and the IPV3 around $150, I don't feel like the many hours to build something would be worth it. If I had a creative mind, or a new idea, it might be different. I am sure with my brain, I would only come up with something so simple that would not work as good as something I could buy.

Something you have to understand is all electronic devices, of this type,use a method to boost the voltage, or higher voltage batteries and a method to reduce voltage. This makes your 3.7 volt battery put out 5.5 volts for example. The read out on your device is not extremely accurate, because without an oscilloscope to measure the output the display must use mathmatic formulas to give you a readout. Here are the formulas for a Vrms and Vavg (mean). http://www.rfcafe..onversion.htm

We use Vrms because it takes the Alternating Current (I actually think most use DC-DC duty cycle, which produces a sinewave) that is put out by a PMW to provide us with a Voltage that closer represents the equal amount in Direct Current (Like produced like a mechanical mod).

I am not sure how your device uses Vrms and Mean to adjust the voltage to your atty. I guess you would have to ask the engineer that designed the circuit.

In my opinion, our devices are not designed to be as accurate as many would like. I really feel like the numbers on the readout are just there so you can find what you like and get it back to that setting again later. If you like the rms output, use it, or vice versa. There are many people that are perfectly happy with the twisting the little dial on the bottom of a spinner, never knowing exactly how much voltage they are actually set to.

I just got an iStick a few days ago. I just watched PBusardo's review. He gives it a thumbs down. His main reason is it uses Mean (Vavg) on it's display rather than Vrms. That is why many people that are using other devices at a certain wattage, find this one is too hot at the same wattage (or voltage). He goes in to quite a bit of detail and explains it pretty well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_W1G7p_fCJw

I hope this helps.


PS: To all the electrical engineers/electronics experts. I am a hobbiest, I don't claim to be and expert at all...if I screwed this up, please let me know!

RMS is a better way to guage the power you use/need to adjust to taste.

I will however take this time to remind you about the drug talk/device issues on this forum.

We're happy to help with any vape related questions, however alternative uses will not be allowed.

I don't want to seem harsh, just want to see you get started on the right foot here....

But they only use PG "on your request." It's not in their usual mix.

Anywho: still need more posts...

I'm new here obviously, however not so new to vaping.

Tried it years ago back before there were any standards and getting replacement cartridges or atomizers was next to impossible... and now adays we have standards! finally! replacement parts are dime a dozen, tanks and tanks and flavors oh my! love it!

So got back into it like a year ago, got a starter kit (mistake) it leaked all over and sucked...

year later tried again and got an aspire bdc, also leaked, changed coil...still leaked, changed coils one more time and no leak! yay! so that finally got me off cigs and my collection has been growing ever since.

more recently got into RBA's and I'm hooked on them! I don't even really want to use any of my other tanks anymore...

Just gave my GF my old iclear 30s and spare coil for it... Almost never use my pair of aspire BDC tanks anymore... and rarely use my iclear x.i tanks either. aspire nautilus I still use as it kicks some good flavors, but the KFL+ = yum

That coil builds thread is giving me all kinds of new ideas which might not be such a good thing... GF already says I'm obsessed cause I go to one of the 3 local vape shops like once a week lol.