jasonculp

Welcome to Vapor Talk Lee!
My OWN opinion is that we're a LOT more friendly and not at all cliquey around here, but I'm biased.  When I joined not quite 18 months ago I perused this and several other forums.  This is what I was looking for...a group of people who, for the most part, are more concerned with vaping for health reasons than than they were with comparing who can blow the biggest cloud.  You'll find hobbyists here as well, though.  DIYers, coil builders, collectors...heck, we even have one guy around here whose personal hobby is helping other people spend money on vape gear.  I won't mention his name.
 

Glad to hear you got your mods, if we happen to carry anything SV has at a higher price, let me know and we'll match them  And then if something goes wrong you can track me down personally and I'll crack the whip. 

Sweet vapes done good this time I got all my mods today

ugh Vape Tongue is the worst and I have to be honest, until now I'd actually never heard a term applied to it. I find this happens most with VG liquids. As mentioned above, moving to a different ratio, especially one that's higher in PG usually resolves it for me personally. 

Just ordered another Wismec Presa 75W TC, two more 50W Subbox kits (in black), five 5-packs of 1.6 Ohm BVC for the SO's Nautilus tanks, and a couple silicone sleeves for my IPV minis (they're looking pretty bad with paint fade and scratches).
Next paycheck will be a couple liters of 100mg/ml Nicotine...

The red seals (and older white ones) are Nichrome.  Pink designates 316L SS, and the outside of the case is stamped "SS"
 
For convenience, you can refer to the following chart  (I think SS has more than one resistance available now, so the chart may need updating?):
NAME OF COIL
WIRE MATERIAL
COLOR OF SEALS
AVAILABLE RESISTANCE
WRITING ON COIL
MODE
NiCr
Nichrome
Red
0.15, 0.5, 1.2, 1.5
NC
Wattage
Ni200
Nickel
Blue
0.15
Ni
Temperature
SUS316
Stainless Steel
Pink
0.5
SS
Temperature/Wattage
Clapton
Kanthal
Black
0.5
Clapton
Wattage
Oh, and to clarify... SSOCC stands for Stainless Steel Organic Cotton Coil... the SS portion of the name denotes the CASING is Stainless Steel, not the wire which makes the coil...  Coil type is denoted by seal (o-ring) color and case-stamp.

Just ordered an Invader mini(my third)Kanger Kbox 70 W TC and a KangerSubox mini kit

Picked up a Gal of VG  Now I have 2/12 gal in stock

I just bought a liter each of 100mg 100%PG nic and 100mg 100%VG nic (to help make the coming vapocalypse a little more comfortable).

Ordered 100 more Kanger Subtank OCC 1.2 Ohm horizontal coils on 7/21 ($68 after 20%-off coupon/promo discount), and received a notice from Fasttech today... they just now shipped!  So, I should have them sometime between Labor Day and Christmas :P  Good thing I'm not in desperate need, huh?

I love that little "Stealth" from Tesla... I only wish it were VV/VW.  If it were, I'd probably have four or five of them by  now
I found it does best with a 0.8-1.2 Ohm coil, with 1.0 Ohm being the sweet spot (for me).  I have mine with a Russian 91% at 1.0-1.1 Ohms, and it is working very well... but you are correct that it falls off quickly in the latter half of its charge... 
I can live with the fall-off, though, because it makes up for that short-coming with it's size and I love the VTR-ish "protected" tank style... it fits great in my jacket pocket, back packet, or tank-bib-bag on my motorcycle.  The submerged/protected tank is the only reason I ever wanted a VTR, well, that and the fact they are great self-defense weapons, lmbo

I want one of those so bad, but I have 3 NEBOXs in a cart for $20/ea and just cant pull the trigger.  (We are on a new budget, and it is killing my shinyitus)

Stealthy little dude. Love it so far..
 

Wizard labs or Heartland vapes in my opinion are the best choices.
I don't know about Wizard Labs, but Heartland Vapes has DIY starter kits.

I want one of those so bad, but I have 3 NEBOXs in a cart for $20/ea and just cant pull the trigger.  (We are on a new budget, and it is killing my shinyitus)

I want one of those so bad, but I have 3 NEBOXs in a cart for $20/ea and just cant pull the trigger.  (We are on a new budget, and it is killing my shinyitus)

It depends on the mod mostly, mods with built in batteries have basically the same batteries as the mods with replaceable batteries only they are soldered in, with my single battery mods I use a external charger and replace the battery when it gets low, my dual battery mods I charge in the mod. I guess its a matter of personal preference. The only mod I can think of that batteries should be charged outside the mod is the RX 200, because people have had problems with the batteries charging unevenly due to the battery configuration. Charging with a external charger makes it easier to just switch batteries instead of waiting for the battery to charge, Just my opinion.

I got my tesla stealth yesterday.  I actually like this thing a lot so far.  It's still alien in my hands - I'm not used to it's small size and i haven't settled on how to hold it yet.
 
Fully charged and with a subtank mini with a .8 ohm coil it runs slightly hot (it's not adjustable) but no burnt taste. And it's been vaping smoothly thru the battery life although it starts to dwindle in production in the lower band of it's battery life.  All in all so far I like it. It's not a killer mod but I like it's size and performance.  Well worth the $22. 

Welcome Back!

Why nobody has mentioned steam engine to you before now is a mystery, I use it all the time, mostly I use the wire wizard section, but have used the other parts also. Maybe someday they will make a downloadable version where you won't have to get on the net.

Edna,
That is a handy calculator, but it doesn't use the correct calculations for a Variable Wattage or Temp Control mod.  Ohm's law must be calculated for both sides of the chip inside your mod. (The calculator works fine for a mechanical mod)
The simplest way to figure it is:  Wattage / Low battery cut off voltage * 1.1 (add 10% for the inefficiency of the board) = Total Amp Draw
So if you have a mod (with any ohm coil that it will fire with) and it is set to 60 watts and has a single battery it will pull 18.86 amps because:
60/3.5*1.1=18.87 
Most mods cut off around 3.5 Volts.  With a board inside them amplifying the voltage to you atomizer the lower your batteries voltage, the more demand it is asking from the battery.  On the example above, the board it having to amplify the batteries 4.2 Volts (at full charge) to 5.4 Volts at the atomizer to deliver 60 watts.  This requires 15.71 Amps to boost the voltage when the battery is fully charged.  When your battery is low (3.5 V) it requires 18.86 Amps.
Here is a link to the handiest calculator on the web, but it can be a bit complicated:
Steam Engine - Coil Wrapping
Steam Engine - Battery Draw - to use this make sure to check the "regulated" check box and "power regulation" check box.
I always recommend for beginners to use a pretty good Variable Wattage mod for building.  It is just another level of safety.  If the mod senses it is shorted, it won't fire, and if the battery gets too low it won't fire.  You can still over tax the battery inside it, but it is much harder to do.
Have fun with it, building your own coils can be very satisfying.  It not only lets you tailor the coil to your vape, but it is also much less expensive once you have your tools/supplies.  I rewick my coils every 3 days or so.  This gives me a "new coil" vape for pennies.

Being able to put it in my pocket is the reason I am always on the lookout for box mods like the Stealth, if it was vv/vw I would end up like Tam is with the istick 50 and have 5 or 10 of them.  I can drop it in my work shirt pocket and button the flap, or put it in the back pocket of my pants. I loved my VTR, but it can't be used with many tanks and they are too expensive for what they are to replace it (Plus it's a lot on the heavy side.). I have a Kangside Luxury box, that I got on sale somewhere, went to buy another and apparently they are discontinued. I have a Smoant Knight I haven't yet opened as well. I like the recessed tank, I actually think they are better that the pen types for putting in your pocket. I have pulled apart many eGo-Ts from having them in my pocket, probably from the flexing as I move, and even broke a couple CE4 tanks in my pocket.

Everything was on Sale
My Reign Has Just Begun

I had several teeth extracted a few years ago, and vaped without any issues afterwards, but I changed from mouth-to-lung airflow to a more open direct-to-lung airflow, which reduced the chances for getting a dry socket.
As a side-note... a lot of dentists don't know the facts on vaping, and will tell you false info regarding how bad it is for your teeth.  One of my favorites is that "PG is very bad for your teeth"... ummm... if it were bad for your teeth, it wouldn't be a chief ingredient in mouthwash and toothpaste, lol.  Another biggie is "All those sweet flavors in vape are like sucking on sugar all day"... ummm... no, that is also false because while there are sweet flavors and sweeteners in some vape flavors, they are not nearly as bad as drinking a cola or eating a candy bar.  Also, since I started vaping, my hygienist and dentist could not be happier with my check-ups.  Vape does not stain my teeth like tobacco (or coffee) did, and my cleanings take 10 min!  My dentist has also said my teeth and gums are healthier now than they were 5 years ago.

I still have quite a few mechanical mods.  I really like the simplicity, and the dependability of them.  You are correct though, they are essintially a pipe bomb in the wrong hands.
I don't use them any more.  I like the consistent vape of a variable wattage mod so much better.