Happy Vapor

see if a local B&M has magnets that will work with it.

Imo less cotton means more flavor. You may be using too much cotton. Open the airflow and place your coil as low to the deck as you can.

That vtr has some face on its face

I love the kayfun but please remember it is a rebuildable and takes a little know how and tools of the trade like an ohm meter.

I like the idea that I can switch things up from time to time. I like options and besides who else do you know with a zombie mvp 2

Yeah that's just plain dumb advice.

It's your party and you can drip what you want

Come on, sing with me...

Dripping in the name of!

**** you, I won't do what you tell me!
**** you, I won't do what you tell me!
**** you, I won't do what you tell me!
**** you, I won't do what you tell me!
**** you, I won't do what you tell me!

Repeat til you feel better"..

And thats (^^) what makes Happy, well...happy! Lmao

And you have to remove the whole upper ring. I know you couldn't fit the nautilus on there just opening the diameter up a little. Due to the small ring above the air control.

dude that takes way to long I was just trying to vape that ****. I used a di grinder with a rock.

When I get my hcigar nemmy clone in, I wanna do the patina that turns it that aqua-marine blue, then clearcoat it.

I do what I can when I can got the idea from imedic

Good job handy man! Nice innovation/adaptation!

I cut and sanded the upper ring.

Thank you guys so much. He is doing as well as to be expected. No pain so that is good but his mind is lost. His words are very jumbled and thought process is shot. I keep hoping he will come back to us but I know that will never happen. It is good to have friends like you to help keep me grounded and keeping my chin up.

Please read this if you are new to the vape world. It will help eliminate a lot of confusion https://www.thevaporhut.com/vape-lingo/

Great job

I always have a backup for my backup. So if I start to burn juice, which rarely happens anymore, I switch to a different device. I handle all my liquid and gear at my vape station which is off limits to everyone. There is no room for error. I compare this story to drinking your spit cup. Same results. Same mistake. Glad you're OK and happy vaping.

back to the basics. 28 Guage quad micro coils on igo w6 .37 ohms

Double flat bastard single coil wrap. .6 ribbon twisted w/ 28 Guage wire then twisted w/ another .6 ribbon

im not that long winded. Fine job.

First things first, with your tank/cartomizer you want to snug it down where it makes a connection, "finger snug". A lot of clearomizers with long center pins can screw on to the threads too far if you go past the snug fit. Pressing both buttons on the LCD will display the resistance and battery capacity. So when you are attaching a clearomizer or tank, once it connects snug you can press both buttons and see if it shows an ohm number. If it says "NON" that means it's not contacting the firing pin unless its a short somewhere. If you get a resistance reading back, try and take a vape and if it fires it's good to go.

The biggest thing is, there's two modes, they are seperate. You can set voltage OR wattage, not both. Start running wattage mode (P for Power on the button label, it's the top button on the LCD.

There's tons of bad advice where people are instructing users to set both, which is impossible. If you set Power, and then you press the "V" button for volts, it discards whatever P you just set, and vice versa.

Set the (P) which is power to 7.5 and start vaping. Once you've vaped a lil bit, enough to warm up your tank and get it wicking, bump it up .5 at a time, and when you start to get the hint of a burnt taste back it down a click.

The lower the ohm rating, the lower your power needs to be. If you build your own coils start around 1.8 to 2 ohms, and you'll probably crank the power up quite a bit. With my protank it tends to burn at higher watts than my aspire tank with BDC. My protank is a protank 2.

When you set the (P) it's going to regulate the power for you. It caclulates the resistance in your clearomizer/cartomizer and decides how much voltage to send from the battery so that you get that wattage. When you set voltage, you're telling it not to do the math for you, to try and stay at exactly that voltage instead of adjusting it for the power output to stay the same.

If you build your own coils, start out around 2 ohms, 1.8 something like that. When the ohms get really low the MVP battery just can't put out the power it needs, you'll get a better vape with a higher ohm, at least that's my experience. If 1.8 works well you can try lower next build and find the sweet spot.

With pre-bought coils personally I like 1.8 ohm but 2.2 works almost as good so if you have a bunch of 2.2 coil units from kanger or aspire or something, you can use them just fine.

PBusardo has a great review

I've got one myself BC! But after 3 weeks of using it, I'm no longer impressed with it. I find it works better with vertical coils, but I don't get as rich of flavor from it as I do my normal RDAs. It can be a little tricky to get back together as well.

Sometimes, the springs get hot and collapse. Magnets are the bombdiggity.
Yep... I just said bombdiggity!

Nice! Is the Vader your version of Elf on a shelf!? lol