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Let's Talk Temp Control


Bebop

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Yep and I ran my Hana with Nickel set at 450 degrees, display goes berserk when the button is fired changing the voltage and wattage.  Changed back to kanthal and a constant setting and I see no difference. I'm not saying you're wrong or anyone else for that matter, I just don't see what the big deal is, at least since I learned that all my dry hit problems were from poor wicking, another reason why I dumped my Subtanks.  I don't know if Kanger had a bad batch of 0.5 heads that they had in circulation for over a freakin month or what but there were a lot a pissed off people because of it.

If you enjoy it that's all that matters.  Everyone used to crap on Windows Millennium but I never had a problem with it ;)

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I've not used any Ni200 premade coil heads in my Subtanks so I can't speak about those, but I have made coils for the Subtanks' RBA heads and they perform beautifully. I also refitted an eGo One tank's coil head with a Ni200 coil and it works just as good.

I think that where TC really shines is in RDAs and tanks where you can't really see what's going on under the hood. It's really hard to see your juice level in an eGo One tank (I've unintentionally run out of juice in it several times) and with most RDAs, so when you run dry, TC kicks in and keeps your coil temp from skyrocketing, thus eliminating charred wicking material and a burning throat and watering eyes. Run dry with no TC on a Kanthal build and...well, you know what happens.

Edited by Rixter
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I feel your pain on the eGo, the Delta2 would benefit from temp control, the window is almost nonexistent.  I had luck on the Sub RBA but the airflow was so tight I found myself building chimney coils to open it up. Again, my Aqua V2 is such a good tank I'm very reluctant to try anything else (as far as tanks go). Great cloud and flavor. Since learning how to properly wick it I have yet to dry hit for the exception of accidentally jacking the wattage way up :blink:

Edited by Mplough
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My builds (in Ni200) generally read lower on my heatvape than they do on my ohm reader. I target the build to about .16. They read .18 on the ohm reader after I load it with juice. Then I tank it up and my mod reads .13

its still operating correctly but it shows .13.  I would have suspected it to read slightly higher if anything. 

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My builds (in Ni200) generally read lower on my heatvape than they do on my ohm reader. I target the build to about .16. They read .18 on the ohm reader after I load it with juice. Then I tank it up and my mod reads .13

its still operating correctly but it shows .13.  I would have suspected it to read slightly higher if anything. 

​The last one I did, Twisted 30 gauge Kanthal, with 28 gauge Ni200.  As many 3 mm spaced wraps as I could get in the SubTank Mini ohmed out at .06.  I got pissed off and went back to the factory Ni200 OCC coils....lol

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Watched a vid of a guy using the kanger occ nickel coils in a vapor shark he was using 25w 450 temp and loving it. He said coil life is great and hes gotten two weeks out of one of the coils. He  showed one after a week of use and the wire was spotless.I know lots of factors add to gunk build up. My coils last no where as long as his did.

My question to you guys will a higher/lower watt/temp affect build up more?

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​The last one I did, Twisted 30 gauge Kanthal, with 28 gauge Ni200.  As many 3 mm spaced wraps as I could get in the SubTank Mini ohmed out at .06.  I got pissed off and went back to the factory Ni200 OCC coils....lol

​I keep mine simple now too. lol  8-9 wraps 28g on 3mm for .12 -.13 ohm on subtank. Lemo2 is my current favorite same build but with 10 wraps. No issue with ohms after learning to trap the leads with stock screw. All I needed was patience. 

I just ordered Ti wire and see how that compares with NI200. Maybe with it I can do twisted with no issues.

 

 

Watched a vid of a guy using the kanger occ nickel coils in a vapor shark he was using 25w 450 temp and loving it. He said coil life is great and hes gotten two weeks out of one of the coils. He  showed one after a week of use and the wire was spotless.I know lots of factors add to gunk build up. My coils last no where as long as his did.

My question to you guys will a higher/lower watt/temp affect build up more?

​I use higher VG and it gunks up coils faster regardless of setting. Temp/watts may affect coils gunking up but I am still playing with settings, tanks and juice that I cannot say definitely one way or the other. Average build for me last about a week... give or take a day or so.

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Apparently I'm getting pretty good coil life.  At least by appearance as I haven't kept one coil going for more than a week because I'm playing and rebuilding and trying different wicking configs but I pulled out a week old coil and it looks amazingly clean. The wick itself does not show any wear and the coil has some slight discoloring and a small build up but nothing like I am used to.  I'm using 50/50 and 30/70 pg/vg.  Generally my juices aren't too sweet. 

 

I'm still a bit mystified by a slight flavor issue at the beginning of a new coil. After it breaks in, for lack of a better term, its pretty normal.  But i get a funny subtle taste that I don't recall getting with kanthal. Not logical, and not bad. Just an observation at this point.

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Bebop The guy at the store was telling my NI wire has a coating on it he says he use to run   the wire between 2 fingers a bunch of time before he would build a coil. He recommended I dry fire a new coil a few times to burn off the coating before adding juice too it

Edited by cany
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#!&€!!!  I guess Imissed Ni coil building 101 class.  :( feel like a major major noob :blush: right now....

​I must be a noob as well. I never heard of it before. For me its about a dozen hits on a new coil for it to get broke in properly. I normally taste cotton until its broke in properly.

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Yeah. Even when it's fully primed new coil there's a break in period.   But I hate to think that taste im getting is machine oil or something, lol. 

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I dunno if its true just going by what he told me

​Not doubting you bro. I'm glad you said something. I don't want to be vaping machine oil. With as much as I change coils because I'm experimenting, who knows how much I would be ingesting. Most likely minimal but stil......bleh.

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Ok guys Im thinking I wanna attempt to build a ni coil on the kanger mini rda Need some tips as to what you guys use wire type size cotton etc Is there a standard wrap size I can use to get sat 0.05 ohm. Any info would be greatly appreciated

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I have been running my SubTank Mini RDA for about a week.  If I remember correctly I am running a 3mm spaced coil, 28 ga Ni200,with 7 wraps.  It metered out at .1 ohm.  I am really enjoying it.  My mod is different than y'all but my settings are 30 watts at 450 degrees.

I guess I should add that I am running Japanese cotton that is very tight through the coils and the tails are thinned out a bit and cut at an angle so that they just brush the deck.  (When cutting them I turn my scissors at a 45 degree angle so that when the tail is turned down the ends are perfectly perpendicular to the deck)

Edited by jasonculp
Added wicking info
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I have been running my SubTank Mini RDA for about a week.  If I remember correctly I am running a 3mm spaced coil, 28 ga Ni200,with 7 wraps.  It metered out at .1 ohm.  I am really enjoying it.  My mod is different than y'all but my settings are 30 watts at 450 degrees.

I guess I should add that I am running Japanese cotton that is very tight through the coils and the tails are thinned out a bit and cut at an angle so that they just brush the deck.  (When cutting them I turn my scissors at a 45 degree angle so that when the tail is turned down the ends are perfectly perpendicular to the deck)

Thanks Jason,  Im down to 24w 460 dgrs now with stock NI coil.  3mm spaced coil? whats that..............  Cotton tight? It should be a bit hard too pull thru the coil?  The tail now im really confused. Bear in mind this is all new to me

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Thanks Jason,  Im down to 24w 460 dgrs now with stock NI coil.  3mm spaced coil? whats that..............  Cotton tight? It should be a bit hard too pull thru the coil?  The tail now im really confused. Bear in mind this is all new to me

Sorry!

I use a 3mm coiler (coil master) and a 3mm screwdriver to make the coils on. I make 7 wraps. Using the coiler it makes the coil wraps touch each other, this does not work good on a Nickel build.  You need a spaced coil.  To do this I pull the coil apart and then push it back together again. this causes the wraps to be spaced slightly.  I know others use a machine screw to wrap around to make the coils even.

On the wicking I use about 9-10mm wide strip of the Japanese cotton and take off the top and bottom layers  I then twist the end to get it through the coil.  IMO you know you are doing it right if it is nearly impossible to get through the coil, in fact I distort the coil trying to get it through.  I come back with a pick and make sure all of my coils are straight and not touching/overlapping.  I then use the method that dragongunner posted a while back to thin out the tails.  I don't go quite as far as the guy in the video, but I do thin them down some.  I then trim the wick at a 45 like in the picture (green line) so that when they fold over they are barely touching the deck.  I then screw on the chimney and make sure the wick is not covering the holes with a tiny screwdriver (you can see light if you hold it correctly)  It wicks great with 80/20 juice (for me)

I will try to find a good video.

 

The picture is not mine, it was stolen off of the web, but someone did a good job making it easy to understand.

wicking.jpg

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Sorry!

I use a 3mm coiler (coil master) and a 3mm screwdriver to make the coils on. I make 7 wraps. Using the coiler it makes the coil wraps touch each other, this does not work good on a Nickel build.  You need a spaced coil.  To do this I pull the coil apart and then push it back together again. this causes the wraps to be spaced slightly.  I know others use a machine screw to wrap around to make the coils even.

On the wicking I use about 9-10mm wide strip of the Japanese cotton and take off the top and bottom layers  I then twist the end to get it through the coil.  IMO you know you are doing it right if it is nearly impossible to get through the coil, in fact I distort the coil trying to get it through.  I come back with a pick and make sure all of my coils are straight and not touching/overlapping.  I then use the method that dragongunner posted a while back to thin out the tails.  I don't go quite as far as the guy in the video, but I do thin them down some.  I then trim the wick at a 45 like in the picture (green line) so that when they fold over they are barely touching the deck.  I then screw on the chimney and make sure the wick is not covering the holes with a tiny screwdriver (you can see light if you hold it correctly)  It wicks great with 80/20 juice (for me)

I will try to find a good video.

 

The picture is not mine, it was stolen off of the web, but someone did a good job making it easy to understand.

wicking.jpg

Awesome thank you  Im a bit confused with the cotton layers  you use the middle part of the cotton?

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I have done it every way imaginable, but it seems to work the best if I peel off the stiffer top and bottom layers, they are very thin so all I have left is the puffier middle part.  I really don't know if it is totally necessary there is just too many variables, but that is how I am doing it now.  I have been through about 8 subtank mini rba how-to videos and can't find any good ones!

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Here is a link to the tutorial that DragonGunner did on another post.  It is actually on a Lemo, but I use the same principle.  I don't thin mine out nearly as much, in fact not half that much.

Well, the link will not paste correctly.  The software is adding html into the link.

Look for the Kanger sub mini post, in this section.  It is near the bottom of the first page.

Edited by jasonculp
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Here is a link to the tutorial that DragonGunner did on another post.  It is actually on a Lemo, but I use the same principle.  I don't thin mine out nearly as much, in fact not half that much.

Wick Tutorial

It says  "We cannot locate the topic you are trying to view"

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It says  "We cannot locate the topic you are trying to view"

I guess I need to report a bug.

The actual link is:

http://www.vaportalk.com/forum/topic/26221-kanger-sub-mini/?do=findComment&comment=243618

The problem is that when I paste it and click ok it changes the ...Comment&comment to ...Comment&comment.

I did it twice and got the same result.

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Cany

 

i like everything Jason says except I do 10 wraps to net me about .14 ohms.  I don't believe the heatvape will fire a coil below .1 ohms. .05 ohms is scary low and you better make sure your battery can support it. (Probably doesn't if the off the top of my head math is working correctly).  

 

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