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Let's Talk Temp Control


Bebop

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I seen where they are selling twisted nic and kanthal wire together, They say it works for temp control.

 

I scrolled back and seen its already been discussed, looks like I was late again

Edited by FXRich
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How does NI wire hold up after being dry fired a couple of times? I have a NI coil in for 3 days now this Am I accidentally fired it a few times dry (didnt realize tank was empty):mad: I refilled the tank with a different juice and at the same settings I was using IM getting a hit like Im using 36 nic but Im only using 2nic At the end of the hit is bad and almost tatstes burnt if I drop down too 460/80 it goes away but I get a cool almost tasteless vape. Did I fry the coil?:o

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Somehow I missed this thread.  Here is what I posted on a new thread:

"So everyone manufacturer seems to be pushing temp control.  The term is a little misleading.  As I understand it you have to use Nickle wire and cotton.  The premise is that at the moment you start to dry out and the cotton exceeds the combustible limit when running it shuts off your Mod.  Is this really necessary? To me it sounds like the safety on a sidearm.  My finger is the safety.  It's a simple concept to let go of the button when you get a dry hit.

Temp control sounds cool and then there is also 'temp control' that shuts your Mod off when the Box itself exceeds a 'safe' threshold not to be confused with temperature control of the tank/RDA coil. I purchased a Hana DNA40 yesterday. It came with Nickle wire, at 16 wraps I metered out at 0.16 Ohms.  That is way to freakin low for me, 2 coils would have been 0.08 and I'm not building that low.  Kanger has subohm Nickle heads but personally I just don't see the point."

 

Now, I have had 4 guys at 4 different shops tell me you can set the "temp control" at whatever you want it will ONLY work with Nickle wire.

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Ok my new coil at 24w 520TC started loosing flavor/warmth I jumped it too 560 34w seems ok now Does this seem like a coil issue?

Make sure when you start and set a new coil that you begin with the atomizer at room temp or "cold".  You don't want to fire the coil, disconnect it from mod, put it right back on hot, have it re read your coil which is still warm - it makes TC inaccurate from what I've read. If you are prone to messing with attaching and re attaching your atomizers/tanks, let them cool down before setting them.

i haven't needed to set my temps as high as you. I can only suspect that if you are losing flavor and warmth at those temps, then either your temp control is off or you are approaching dry wicks.  It could be a juice/wicking issue as well. Are you hitting the temp limits at that setting?  I'm sorry, I don't have much experience with the pre made TC coils. Also, I'm finding airflow to be a big factor in performance - which also affects flavor. 

I must be a wimp, lol.  My sweet spot is TC between 440 - 470 and watts about 20 and I let TC take care of the watts after that.

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Somehow I missed this thread.  Here is what I posted on a new thread:

"So everyone manufacturer seems to be pushing temp control.  The term is a little misleading.  As I understand it you have to use Nickle wire and cotton.  The premise is that at the moment you start to dry out and the cotton exceeds the combustible limit when running it shuts off your Mod.  Is this really necessary? To me it sounds like the safety on a sidearm.  My finger is the safety.  It's a simple concept to let go of the button when you get a dry hit.

Temp control sounds cool and then there is also 'temp control' that shuts your Mod off when the Box itself exceeds a 'safe' threshold not to be confused with temperature control of the tank/RDA coil. I purchased a Hana DNA40 yesterday. It came with Nickle wire, at 16 wraps I metered out at 0.16 Ohms.  That is way to freakin low for me, 2 coils would have been 0.08 and I'm not building that low.  Kanger has subohm Nickle heads but personally I just don't see the point."

 

Now, I have had 4 guys at 4 different shops tell me you can set the "temp control" at whatever you want it will ONLY work with Nickle wire.

Well there are a couple "versions" of temp control and I'm not familiar with all of them.  But what we are talking about here is temp control - setting a temperature limit on the coil and the mod automatically regulates the power/wattage to hold that temperature limit and not exceed it.  It's not simply shutting off the mod. 

It also has circuit protection and will not operate below .1 ohms as well. I think the TC range is between .1 and 1 ohm.

 

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Make sure when you start and set a new coil that you begin with the atomizer at room temp or "cold".  You don't want to fire the coil, disconnect it from mod, put it right back on hot, have it re read your coil which is still warm -

​I dont understand  If i dont fire it how does it get warm?

I get the strange feeling that Im just going thru coils real fast The ones Ive looked at the coil is all gunked up but the cotton looks fine

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The starting temperature of the coil when you attach it the device has a lot to do with how it will perform. Once you get your coil set properly and wicked, remove it from the device, let it cool to room temperature, and then attach it to the device so it can read it as a new coil.

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The starting temperature of the coil when you attach it the device has a lot to do with how it will perform. Once you get your coil set properly and wicked, remove it from the device, let it cool to room temperature, and then attach it to the device so it can read it as a new coil.

​What do you mean set properly and wicked Im using premade coils

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Describe in detail the procedure you follow when installing a new coil. Please include the type of coil you are using.

Edited by Rixter
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Im using occ ni 200 kanger replacement coils. It ake the coil out of the package screw it into the base them attach the tank to the batt turn mod on hten select new coil up. If my watt/ TC setting the same I vave if not i reset the settings to what I like then vape.

 

 

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Sounds like you're doing everything just as you should. I build my own coils which requires preheating the coil before wicking, so I have to let it cool to room temperature before attaching it to the device.

Just make sure to manually prime the wick in the coil head with a little eliquid before putting it in your filled tank.

 

By the way, dry-firing a Nickel coil shouldn't affect it's performance at all...the whole premise of TC was to prevent skyrocketing temperatures when your wick goes dry.

Edited by Rixter
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Thanks guys for all the help/ advice  I did a little experiment. I took one of the old coils that was gunked up I gave it a quick clean up with some hot water and a bit of gunk scraping then a quick dry with the air blower  so far is good again. I guess the juice Im using is putting a hurting on the coils Looks like its time to learn too start building my own I figured the gunk would affect the flavor more than the watts/temp

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Did you see the you tube vid I put up showing how to rewick the pre made coils?  It's pretty easy. You could do that.

 

Its not my vid. I linked to it another thread

Edited by Bebop
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Did you see the you tube vid I put up showing how to rewick the pre made coils?  It's pretty easy. You could do that.

 

Its not my vid. I linked to it another thread

​Yes I did :animier: One thing I noticed when I scraped the coils off they were  wound tight it appeared in the vid he says the wraps need to be spaced apart is this correct?

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yes the coils come spaced. You want them spaced as evenly as possible. As oopposed to a "contact" coil where the wraps are touching.

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I should clarify.  They can be either. The guy in the video is re wicking a standard coil, not a TC coil.  What you DON'T want is a mix - some coils touching, others not.  You want uniformity.  One or the other.

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  But what we are talking about here is temp control - setting a temperature limit on the coil and the mod automatically regulates the power/wattage to hold that temperature limit and not exceed it.  It's not simply shutting off the mod.

​Well That's what I thought however, I have had several well versed vendors tell me that's not really what it does. So needless to say I'm miffed by the hype, the reality, the perception and the gray area that is 'temperature control'.  At this point I think it might just be a passing thing we'll all be talking about in a year, "Hey remember when all the rage was temperature control".  

I tried it, I don't see the big deal, moving on B)

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I bought a Heatvape Invader Mini 50W with temperature control and it works as advertised. I will not buy another mod without TC. There's no gray area...if a vendor told you that TC doesn't adjust your power to keep you at a constant preset coil temp, then he/she doesn't know what they're talking about.

 

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  8 hours ago, Bebop said:

  But what we are talking about here is temp control - setting a temperature limit on the coil and the mod automatically regulates the power/wattage to hold that temperature limit and not exceed it.  It's not simply shutting off the mod.

​Well That's what I thought however, I have had several well versed vendors tell me that's not really what it does.

​I use mine all day, every day, and I can assure you that's exactly what it does. When using a Ni200 (nickel) coil in temperature control mode, the mod adjusts your power level down to maintain your pre-selected coil temp.:yes

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