iQuit

California has had trouble balancing their budget for several years now. They barrow against future (projected next fiscal year) sales tax. Not sure how much CA is losing from BT MSA year over year, but it probably must be significant.   Ecig tax is inevitable. I think states that have real trouble balancing their fiscal budget will push harder and harder for a ban, and then placate the public by  "compromising" with a sin tax solution. 

Won the Koopor Mini on Mike Vapes youtube..purchased Style of Mijo atty..still wating for TFV4 and 2 more Starre tanks..

I received my new organizer and it fills like Christmas morning. I went to work right away putting all (well, not all) my goodies where I wanted them to go and just had to share with my Vapor Talk friends.

@FXRich Just tried..elite coils fit fine in Kanger sub tank..but Sub tank coils too big they screw into base but wont screw into chimney of elite tank.


MFS Mystery Box got it Thurs along with my one of my fav juices! Some women collect shoes I collect Vape gear .

Have fun in Florida. 

Nice review and pics, Jason! 
 

Here is my review of the Cthulhu RTA v2.

This is how it came in.  Pretty good packaging with an extra Delrin drip tip, frosted glass, and tools/o-rings.

This is the tank section.  L to R: drip tip, top fill cap, top cap, glass, bottom/chimney.
It can be disassembled nearly completely for cleaning.

The tank section assembled.

This is the top of the build decks.  It comes with both single coil, and dual coil decks.

This is the bottom of the build decks.  The one on the left is the dual coil, and if the pictures were clearer, you can see it has very large airflow.  The single coil has 4 smaller holes, that lead up to the hole below the coil.  It is a bit more restricted than the dual coil deck

This is the base section.  The piece on the left is the airflow control and the positive pin.  It is adjustible and the system works very good.  The middle piece is the juice control.  The ring to the right is what you turn to move the ring up and down.  It could us a bit more knurling, it is pretty slick.

This is the base section and the build deck assembled.  This has the juice control fully open (see the nearly invisible arrow).  As you twist the ring the juice control moves up to contact the bottom of the tank to stop the flow of juice.

Here the juice control is closed.

Here it is coiled, and wicked poorly, but ready to go.  Notice the ring to hold the wicks in place.  This allows you to assemble and disassemble the tank without messing up the wicks.  It is a great idea, but a bit hard to get on and off. So far it has been leak free for me and seems to wick very well.  I am running a 3mm 28ga Ni200 coil on it at .16 ohms.

Ready to vape on my Joyetech eVic VTC Mini.  So far they have been a really good team.
I really like this tank.  It has a lot of pieces.  It is not a simple tank.  The machine work is not perfect on it, but it works well.  I don't use the juice control, I just leave it wide open.  I have only tested the dual coil deck, and it seems to work good.  The single coil deck works great.  It is a lot like a larger SubTank Mini deck.  I have been running it in temp control mode for 2 weeks and have not had a minutes trouble.  My coil looked terrible after 2 weeks, but I think this is more of a fault of the eVic mini, not the tank. It seems like the temp control is not working really accurate with the mini.  I have to run it hotter than my other TC mods to get the same vape, but there are times where it seems to get too hot. I have it updated to the latest firmware, but it looks like they need another update.
Overall I really like this tank.  It is my all day every day tank at the moment.  It has good flavor, and good airflow.  The only downsides to this tank (at least mine) is the poor machining and the complex design.  The machining doesn't bother me on any part but the top fill.  It is a bit hard to get on and off. All of the separate pieces gives quite a few points of failure, but so far none have.
 

The istick 100w is a dual 18650 device.The batteries seem to be running in parallel but I could be wrong,both positives up and both negatives down.You can choose between voltage mode or wattage mode.5w-100w or 2v-10v.Typical 5 clicks on the fire button to turn it on and off.Wattage and voltage adjustments are the same as most devices + for up - for down.You can change the screen display to accommodate left and right handed users.Sufficiant battery venting and the battery door has some strong magnets to hold it on.It does have a USB charging port,but honestly I advise against charging this way.Better safe than sorry.Atomizer protection,Atomizer short-circuit protection,Low voltage protection and Temperature alert.Floating 510 (appears to be copper) but I'm not positive.So overall it's not a bad device at all.100w is more than enough power for all vapers.Feels nice in the hand and no rattle at all.There is one Con and it's a big one (for me at least).Every atomizer that I have put on this device WILL NOT SIT FLUSH.I honestly can not figure out why.And the crazy thing is it's about a playing cards width in gap,frankly it drives me nutts.If attys not sitting flush doesn't bother you then this is worth buying.But I know most people on this forum would agree it is no Bueno.A deal breaker for most seasoned vapers.Overall I'd give this device a 8 out of 10.If atomizers sat flush it would be a 10 out of 10 easy.This was sent to me from GearBest.com for the purposes of this review.Thanks guys! 

Thank you Rixter.  I have struggled with how to post this without being too nerdy.  There is so much more to it, and people think you are nuts when you tell them that the ohms of the atomizer have nothing to do with the amount of draw on the battery with a Variable Wattage device.  The device does not care if it is a .1 ohm or a 1.8 ohm coil.  It only cares how many Watts you are asking it to put out. Just to show the math:
Attomizer Side:
50 watts at .1 ohms is 2.24 volts and 22.4 amps
50 watts at 1.8 ohms is 9.5 volts and 5.3 amps
Since the battery (alone) can not supply 2.24 volts or 9.5 volts it is having to either boost or buck the voltage.  The only thing we have that is constant is the amount of power the board is asking for. So we have to use Ohm's law to see how much current it takes to get that much power from the battery.
Battery Side:
50 watts / 3.2 Volts X 1.1 to add 10% for the efficiency of the board = 17.2 amps
 
This calculation works on Variable Voltage mods too.  You just have to figure out how many Watts you are asking for on the given atomizer.
 
It even works on the Ego Style batteries.  They just have a 3.7 volt (nominal) battery in them. So we have a board doing all of the boost/buck for us.
1.8 ohms and 4.8 volts = 12.8 watts on the atomizer side (volts2 / ohms)
12.8 watts / 3.2 (I really don't know how low the board will let it go) X 1.1 = 4.4 amps drawn from the battery.
Sorry for going all nerdy on this, but think we need to understand this so we choose the correct battery for our mods.  There is so much bad information out there and we need to keep this hobby as safe as possible. 
Here is a good rule of thumb for a single 18650 variable wattage mod:
Use a 20A continuous battery for under 58 watts
Use a 25A continuous battery for under 70 watts
Use a 30A continuous battery for under 85 watts
Here is examples for a dual 18650:
Use a 20A continuous battery for under 115 watts
Use a 25A continuous battery for under 145 watts
Use a 30A continuous battery for under 175 watts
Over 200 watts, use at your own risk.  There are LiPo packs, and triple battery mods that can do this safely.
This is why I stick with OEM cells, LG, Samsung, Sony, ect.  Using them beyond the mfg's CDR rating is possible in short bursts.  The Samsung 18650 25R is actually rated to 45A for 5 seconds, and even higher for shorter periods, but this causes temps to raise, and high temps cause degradation of the battery.
I personally choose not to go beyond the CDR.
 
 

Any time!
Just keep us posted.  From what I see I really like the looks of this mod, and if the mini is nearly as good, it is going to be really hard to resist buying one of each.  I am trying to save money for some test equipment and a new charger...and new batteries, and on and on....But if you give this thing high marks, it may bump some of these "needs"

It is on manual...but the lowest this mod can fire is 0.08 from what i read in the manual. That is what this build was reading 0.08 ohms, but when i locked it came out to 0.114
Well now that i fixed this little hiccup jason, this mod is right on the money. High marks in my opinion, just cant do the review right now since i have to leave out on the road again tomorrow.

Every Since I started Vaping and making mods I would keep reminding myself that there had to be a better way of handling my growing collection of Batteries. I tried lining them up in a cigar box all nice and neat only to knock them back into a jumbled mess the first time I reached for one. Or go to swap out the battery in a mod and forget which hand I had the charged one in ( I killed way to many brain cells when I was Younger ). So while planing this I knew I wanted it to incorporate my existing charger (works great) keep my batteries organized, and be able to test various sizes of batteries. Then I remembered "THE DRAWER" You know the one (I can't be the only one) It's where you throw all the AAA,AA,C,etc. rechargeable and non batteries that you have ever owned and have no idea which are good or bad. So I had to find a meter that would read down to 1.2 volts (AAA) (most will not show below 2.5 volts). And So this is what I came up with and was finally able to get organized and reigning in "THE DRAWER" was a nice added benefit.        And in case you;were curious what the 2 bolts next to the display were for It's for testiing 9 volt batteries.(My younger brother will no longer let me test them my preferred method which was to goad him into sticking the leads on his tongue ).    Thank you for viewing as always all questions,critiques, and or comments are much appreciated.

lowest res is .1... could that be the reason? also, are you on auto or have set it manually?  

I guess I should be throwing out TFA testing as my barometer for DIY, and anyone who uses them for their juices. How do I know they are truthful, valid form of testing, etc. 
Kidding aside, I am more concerned about coming taxes, and licensing fees imposed on anyone selling vape related products. Who knows, some of the favorite places I buy from may not be in business for long.
I accept some level of diketone exposure. But nice to know there are places that are dike free (if true), or show how much they have in it. So I can choose when and how much to indulge. just like how I watch what eat, but pig out once in awhile.

I guess I should be throwing out TFA testing as my barometer for DIY, and anyone who uses them for their juices. How do I know they are truthful, valid form of testing, etc. 
Kidding aside, I am more concerned about coming taxes, and licensing fees imposed on anyone selling vape related products. Who knows, some of the favorite places I buy from may not be in business for long.
I accept some level of diketone exposure. But nice to know there are places that are dike free (if true), or show how much they have in it. So I can choose when and how much to indulge. just like how I watch what eat, but pig out once in awhile.

I guess I should be throwing out TFA testing as my barometer for DIY, and anyone who uses them for their juices. How do I know they are truthful, valid form of testing, etc. 
Kidding aside, I am more concerned about coming taxes, and licensing fees imposed on anyone selling vape related products. Who knows, some of the favorite places I buy from may not be in business for long.
I accept some level of diketone exposure. But nice to know there are places that are dike free (if true), or show how much they have in it. So I can choose when and how much to indulge. just like how I watch what eat, but pig out once in awhile.

lol, yeeah. I tried 100+ and I nearly chocked. I guess I am a sissy.
75-80W is my sweet spot for triple, 80-90W for quad, 35-40 on RBA1 (vertical), and 60W on RBA2 standard build

It was a big Vape Mail day for me.
I got a 30 feet of Ti 01 in 28 ga, and 30 feet in 26 ga.
I also got another 5 Ni200 Herakles Coils.
Then I got the BEAST!  I have never seen anything like it.  The TFV4 tank from Smoktec.  I couldn't wait so I didn't take pictures, I wanted to try a Ti coil and the RBA.
I did take some pictures of the coils though.


Left to right: TFV4 Triple Coil, TFV4 Quad coil, Herakles (same size as Atlantis), and SubTank.
This thing is HUGE.
I am actually a little scared of this tank!

I personally vote for the ipv d2.  I really like mine.  It is nearly as small as an iStick, but has a removable 18650 and 75 watts. (in power mode).
That being said here is my next big expense (if I will quit spending) I think I will get a Cloudmaker  I like the fact you can use 2 18650's or the Lipo,  and DNA 200 or YiHi sx350J.
It is a sweet rig!  Truth be told...$200 vs $50 for another D2....I will probably get another D2.
One thing I have learned about the DNA200 is the use of the new 900mah lipo's.  They are 11.1V 3C cells.  If I read everything correctly (I have not looked too deep myself), the cell is good for 23 amps, and using it on the DNA200 (at much lower voltages) it is supposed to have the equivalent of nearly 2700mah if you directly compared it to 18650's.  I have not looked up the conversions myself.
Ok, couldn't stand it:
Wh = mAh × V / 1000
so, 900mah @ 11.1v = 9.99Wh
9.99Wh @ 3.7v = 2700mah

Thanks for sharing. 
Thorny Strapple and Strawberry Custard results... along with 10 other new results listed on their blog.

Here's one https://thecleanvape.com/

the problem i have is that the general public do not know about diketones and really wouldnt even know what the numbers mean. its great that they are transparent but need to get those numbers down imo....and totally agree with the fact that they may not even be bad for you...but ignorance isnt a sufficient answer for myself personally an will be cautious with what i buy

I totally agree with you.  I do the same.  I really don't need over a 20 watt battery anymore.  I still have some VTC3 which are the only true 30A that I own.
I tend to err on the side of being overcautious.  Good batteries are cheap and readily available. VTC4's are going for $6.00 each, HE2/HE4's are going for $5.00, 25R's are also $5.00.
If you need more power, you can get a true 25A battery in a LG ICR18650HD2 for $5.00 or a 30A 18650 LGDAHB6 for $4.50.
There are some less than honest people out there.  If you look around you will see that there has been cells rated at less than 5 amps with wraps on them that said 20 watts. There have also been a few reported unprotected ICR cells (unsafe chemistry) sold as vaping batteries.

Well, I disagree with you.  
I think it's highly responsible of them to test their liquids and publish their findings.  As I stated, the levels were low to non detectable.  
Vaping has always been about harm reduction. Never about risk free "smoking".  there is no evidence that diacetyl has produced any illness or disease in any vaper and it has been around for as long as liquid has been produced.  
The issue of DA (diacetyl) and AP (acetylpropionyl) in e-liquid really gained some traction with the release of a study investigating its presence in e-liquid by Dr. Farsalinos and colleagues. Based on an analysis of 159 e-liquids and concentrated flavors expected to contain the chemicals, the study found that around 74 percent contained either DA or AP. The median daily exposure for vapers was calculated to be 56 μg (1 μg = 1 millionth of a gram) per day for DA and 91 μg per day for AP, which are 100 times and 10 times lower than the exposure for a smoker, respectively.
is it avoidable?  Probably, if you can get manufacturers to test and publish their results.  Without that, you have no way of knowing if your juice contains it and to what levels.Ive said it before. Vaping is not risk free. And guaranteeing that there is no DA or AP does not in and of itself make it risk free.
This is about harm reduction. DA has been singled out, but is not the only issue. And I don't care what claims are made, this is still the wild frontier and you vape at your own risk. I'm not here to defend diacetyl. I'm trying to put perspective on this topic.