miatafrank

You are quite correct Will, the 14500 under test with the Mark mod was not fully charged. You brought up some very good points about the mah ratings posted on the batteries not being accurate.

My purpose in this video was to show a simple test that anyone could do without getting too elaborate. What I like to do is run a test like this when I first get a new PV to get a base line of it's performance. Later down the road, if I think I notice things not working as well, I can run the test again to see if there is truely a decrease in performance.

Are your atties gummed up? Tasting like crap? Are you looking for a way to clean your atties without chemical cleaners? Cleaning with hot water has drawbacks as well -- it kills vapor production and if you don't use distilled water you'll have scale build up on the coil which cuts vapor production and shortens its life.

Finally, no more waiting days and days for the water to dry out of your atomizer; no more chemicals and no more scale. With the Dooder Method you'll be vaping instantly after cleaning, your atty will taste like brand new, and you'll be saving money!

Here's how it works:


What you'll need:
a. Small saucepan
b. at least 2 shot glasses
c. USP Propylene Glycol
d. heat source
e. dirty attys
f. tweezers
g. paper towels

1. Blow as much gunk as you can from the BATTERY end towards the business end.

2. Place your dirty atties in a shot glass and fill with USP PG to cover the atties completely. Fill another shot glass with pg but don't put any attys in it. You'll need this pg later.

3. Fold up a paper towel, or use some cloth and place in pan. Now, place both shot glasses on the towel, in center of saucepan and fill PAN (not glasses) with water about halfway up the shot glasses.

4. Put on stove or heatsource and set to simmer.

DISCLAIMER: As with anything you read on the internet, when trying this method, please use common sense! If using a gas stove, ensure NO FLAME is rolling up the sides of the pan! PG is pretty safe but the vapor can ignite if the concentration is high enough in the room. Good ventilation is key.

* The boiling point of PG is 370.8F. What does this mean to you? It means that you will never get it to boil on your stove, but if open flame rolls up over your saucepan you could see a flash. Again, this tech is safe as long as you use common sense.

5. Boil for at least 15 mins. CAUTION: watch and make sure the water level doesnt get too low--it may crack the glass! The lid helps increase the amount of heat inside and helps keep the water level from dropping too quickly.

6. After 15 min. boil, take tweezers and grab and atty from the business end, allowing hot pg to run back into glass.

7. Now, repeatedly dip the atties into the CLEAN hot pg and allow to drain from business end down and out battery end into the glass until it comes out clear.

8. Set upside down on paper towel and allow to cool a few mins.

9. Pick atty up and blow out excess pg.

10. Vape away!

Comments or suggestions welcome!

Dude.

All of the comments made by these idiots are completely as predicted, and is exactly as described in the interview with Dr. Michael Seigel. They are completely ignoring the science (or that the science even exists) and leaning heavily in the ideology that something that looks like smoke can't be a good thing.

If you didn't listen to the interview, do it now. You owe it to yourself to understand this insightful perspective.

A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










**This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**

A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










**This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**

I think you have it wrong about the tobacco industry, and they are more likely to be on our side. They have been just as victimized by taxation as the smokers. The real culprits are the state governments and federal agencies like the FDA. They impose high taxes on cigarettes which impacts the pockets of smokers, and leads to LESS sales of tobacco. Why would the tobacco industry be behind that.

Hurt by this taxation, the tobacco industry turned to other ways to sell their product. The extraction of nicotine for use by the pharmaceutical companies in patches and gum and such. Now the pharmaceutical companies would be another villain in all this, but to the tobacco companies they would be just another customer. There is also snus which is derived from the tobacco plant, and yes, electronic cigarettes. If the tobacco companies get on board with more smoking alternatives which are derived from the tobacco plant, they stand to make MORE money, and that puts them more on our side.

This is not just my guess. This is a point on view published in a tobacco magazine, and the article was posted a while ago right here on vaportalk by another member.

Just sent my email, it was super simple. I just hope it has the impact we need.

I have also noticed that there is a bit of inconsistency in the barrel size tolerance of atomizers that cause drip tips to fit tight in one atomizer, while fitting loose in others. If you have multiple drip tips, you could set up different ones with different thicknesses of O-rings. That way as the atomizer barrel tolerance changes, you will always have a drip tip that fits.

A "mod" is a modified battery e-cig. It consists of an e-cig body which houses removable lithium-ion batteries. These are larger units that are not mass produced, but have great advantages over the mass produced units that look like cigarettes. First and most importantly is that the battery life is WAY longer. The removable batteries are cheaper to replace when they no longer hold a charge. Mods are available in a variety of voltage levels, including models that are adjustable voltage.

Standard e-cigs that look like cigarettes are often referred to as stick batteries. In these models the e-cig is the battery, which means that when the battery no longer holds a charge it is the entire unit that you are replacing. Battery charge life on these models is about 2 hours, which hardly fits anyone's lifestyle. They hit good when the battery is at a full charge, but within 20 minutes the voltage starts to drop and leave you not as satisfied.

I hope this helps, and if you want to catch up on terminology check out this post http://www.vaportalk.com/forum/forum/forum/topic/9784-jargon-for-noobs/

For a more detailed description of the evolution of standard e-cigs to mods read this http://www.vaportalk.com/forum/forum/forum/topic/8803-the-noobie-guide/

For variable voltage, there's always the Buzz http://www.notcigs.c...cchk=1&Itemid=1'>http://www.notcigs.c...cchk=1&Itemid=1

Or the Infinity http://www.notcigs.c...cchk=1&Itemid=1'>http://www.notcigs.c...cchk=1&Itemid=1

The Megalodon has options for running 5v or 6v http://www.electroni...-MEGALODON-c82/

I almost forgot, you could always get a tek mod from Jolly

Your video can be as long as you like. The only limit is your file size. If you have a basic account, you are limited to 500 MB per week. However if you upgrade to Plus, you get 5 gigs of upload space per week, with a limit of 2 GB per file.

http://vimeo.com/

Hope this helps.

Well you already know about the VP/PT, and there's always the ego USB battery that can be used as a passthrough, but will always be 3.7volts. http://www.vaportalkstore.com/products/Joye-eGo-USB-Passthrough.html

You could try MadVapes, they have some interesting acrylic 5volt passthroughs. http://www.madvapes.com/USB-Passthroughs_c_164.html

There are also other 5volt passthroughs that are made as attachments to mod, like this one http://www.ecigsupply.com/Mod-Parts/Indulgence-usb-passthrough-p344.html used with mod http://www.ecigsupply.com/Mods/The-Indulgence-p342.html

Or this passthrough http://ikenvape192.corecommerce.com/The-Chameleon-Line/Chameleon-USB-PT-Pass-through-p35.html used with this mod http://ikenvape192.corecommerce.com/The-Chameleon-Line/The-Chameleon-p16.html

I hope that helps.

Each one is different, and each one is breathtaking. Mine is Quina and Maple. The 2 different woods come together seamlessly in a diagonal, almost spiraling effect. It is truly the most beautiful and awe inspiring mod I own. Hand craftsmanship of this level of artful detail is rare in our modern world. Mark is a master who commands the wood to his ultimate vision.

Ironic that this should come down on December 7th, which since 1941 was marked as a day remembered in infamy. This time the american people get to be happy winners, instead of blown up survivors.

Ironic that this should come down on December 7th, which since 1941 was marked as a day remembered in infamy. This time the american people get to be happy winners, instead of blown up survivors.

It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
Current = voltage divided by resistance
Resistance = voltage divided by current
Power = voltage multiplied by current

Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a standard atty;
5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a LR atty;
5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

A 6v device with a standard atty;
6v / 3ohms = 2amps
6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

A 6v device with a HV atty;
6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.

Electronic devices that give the user a shock is usually a faulty ground somewhere in the device, or a missing ground in the AC outlet where it is plugged into. Try plugging the computer into a different AC outlet to verify if it is a missing ground in the outlet, or you could also try a different computer power cable. If it proves to be the computer itself, I would have it repaired or replaced as soon as possible, as this type of problem could aso have negitive effects on the other computer devices connected to it (printers webcams, external drives, etc.)

Let me go ahead and ease your mind friend. For any microorganism to grow certain conditions must be met: Temperature and humidity must be high, typically over 85% but ideally over 90%; food must also be present; this food should be in the form of simple sugars. This is one major reason plants store the food for their seeds in the form of starches! And finally, access to water is needed to fuel the fermentation process of breaking down the sugars for food.

Propylene glycol has a magical effect of preventing mold growth. It is used in humidifiers for this very purpose. Along with its emulsifing properties and very low toxicity, PG, even when mixed with water, keeps humidity levels at 70%. It also prevents water uptake by these microorganisms therefore preventing germination of the spore itself. Indeed, PG is a truely magical substance!

Also, if the carto is made of inorganic material as opposed to, say, cotton, that will inhibit mold growth as well.

Hope that makes you feel better!

* Maybe this thread should be moved to the "concerns" forum?