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UD Goliath 2 build with NI200


Vapor Guy

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So had a nice single coil build going with 28 gauge NI200 it read at 0.123 on my IPV 4 so I decided to wick it and give it a go. 

Put it all together and got a reading of 0.047 so I was like what the hell, I took it back apart and got 0.143 reading so I figure something had to be going on. I noticed the chimney was touching the coil so I re adjusted the coil and set it up again. 

Got it a reading of 0.178 

the first few hits were nice, but then I get a reading of 0.268 on the coil I know with NI200 standard coils when the temp goes up they will read higher.  

I was getting a real bad hit tasted terrible, then I got a dry reading so I adjusted the juice control valve a few times, and re soaked the actual cotton on the coil. Read at 0.163 so fired away this time only one good hit and the rest so so, closed the air flow trying to prime the coil. Gave it a few more goes mediocre hits

i decide to give it a monster rip after changing mouth pieces got a worse hit then dry kanthal I was like unreal. 

I'm no expert coil builder at all,if fact I'm very inexperienced but the same happened with one of the stock coils it came with, I thought NI200 and temp control was supposed to prevent hits like that. 

This was a terrible experience I still feel like I want to vomit, juice flow on this thing sucks. Or maybe I messed up but I tried the juice control wide bot ways made sure the chimney was lined up proper so idk. Bad experience for sure. 

image.jpg

The pic was before I juiced it FYI 

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The first thing...

You have your leads draped over the tops of screw.   That's not good (on any bbuild) but particularly on Ni200.

That's going to give you inconsistent contact and Ni hates that. Also, though I cant prove it and its just a theory, I believe the softness of Ni makes it move a little under current and heat. Again leading to inconsistent contact which TC hates.

Also, you dont state anything about your mod and its settings.  Please add that as well.

 

 

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That was the first reading I got before wicking, it's at 0.178 

also if I try to do a dual coil the reading drops down to 0.74 why is that? Like I said in not the most experienced with building 

This can be a lot more complicated than what I'm about to explain, but in this particular case with a dual coil build, whether it's kanthal, Ni200 or Ti1, you are giving the electricity two paths to travel through, thus cutting the resistance in half.  If you were to make a single coil that contained the same number of wraps of both coils combined (for instance a single 22 wrap coil vs. 2x 11 wrap coils) you would be doubling the distance the electricity needs to travel along a single path and you would see the ohms double.

Analogy of the day: 100 cars traveling on a single lane highway would create create more traffic than those same 100 cars traveling down a two lane highway.  More lanes = less resistance.

I'm a nerd and would be happy to explain further if you'd like me to, but I hope this explanation helps.

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This is the formula for calculating resistance in parallel.

Resistor in parallel:

Rtotal = 1/(1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 ... + 1/Rn)

basically if you run two 1.0 ohm resistors in parallel you will end up with a total of .5 resistance. running resistance in series is a whole different thing.

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Did you lock your resistance at room temp beforehand (press "+" and "-" at the same time)? Had to ask in case you have not done so. 

Getting a solid contact is key in my experience, and I have wasted a quarter of my Ni spool with trial and error. I can have 2 identical builds (spacing, ohm, diameter, etc) but get different results when I do not have a solid contact. 


I found best result when the leads are wrapped around screw before tightening it. Whereas in just trapping one side, it is a hit and miss for me.
Hang in there man and keep at it.

 

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I think you have wire to post connectivity issues first.

that's how I was taught to build with Kanthal, if it's wrong not a huge problem what do you do personally? Do you cut them so they are not going up to the post? 

This can be a lot more complicated than what I'm about to explain, but in this particular case with a dual coil build, whether it's kanthal, Ni200 or Ti1, you are giving the electricity two paths to travel through, thus cutting the resistance in half.  If you were to make a single coil that contained the same number of wraps of both coils combined (for instance a single 22 wrap coil vs. 2x 11 wrap coils) you would be doubling the distance the electricity needs to travel along a single path and you would see the ohms double.

Analogy of the day: 100 cars traveling on a single lane highway would create create more traffic than those same 100 cars traveling down a two lane highway.  More lanes = less resistance.

I'm a nerd and would be happy to explain further if you'd like me to, but I hope this explanation helps.

I understand thank you for that explanation 

Did you lock your resistance at room temp beforehand (press "+" and "-" at the same time)? Had to ask in case you have not done so. 

Getting a solid contact is key in my experience, and I have wasted a quarter of my Ni spool with trial and error. I can have 2 identical builds (spacing, ohm, diameter, etc) but get different results when I do not have a solid contact. 


I found best result when the leads are wrapped around screw before tightening it. Whereas in just trapping one side, it is a hit and miss for me.
Hang in there man and keep at it.

 

yes I did at room temp but when wicked and still not fired I hit it again to be safe and that's when I got the 0.178 ish 

The build fires just issues with the resistance jumping that changed now just crap hits no juice flow or crappy flow 

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that's how I was taught to build with Kanthal, if it's wrong not a huge problem what do you do personally? Do you cut them so they are not going up to the post? 

 

maybe it's an optical illusion?  It doesn't look like your wire is going straight from the coil to a solid contact point on the posts.  It looks draped over the top. Hard to tell,  looking closer.

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Yes you want to cut off at the post. Kanthal is much more forgiving, but it is not a good practice even with kanthal. With Kanthal there is a risk of shorting out. With Ni it plays hell with the chip calculating it properly. You would have a similar issue if you did a macro or micro with the coils squeezed together. Every thing I have read recommend a coil that is not touching any other par of itself and to use short leads.

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