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Vapor Guy

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About Vapor Guy

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    Contributing Vaper

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    Chicago

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  1. IPV 4S has voltage presets but no way to lock the voltage so if you hit the plus or minus key it will change the voltage The IPV 4 will lock the voltage going up, you have to hit the down key first to adjust up, at least the original one did. don't know if it still does with updates
  2. Now I am loving it, just took the battery door off and kinda gave it a bend, fits super solid now with no issues. I've had this one since about mid summer and now am finally getting to enjoy it
  3. Nice looks like they made it good, especially the battery door that was a huge disappointment on the d2
  4. I wonder why the 4/4s can not be updated to 200 watts. They use the same chip as the 3 LI
  5. The IPV 3 LI 165 watt upgradable to 200 watts. Looks good, anyone get one yet. I'm wondering if the quality is as good as the 4/4S
  6. Did not like the IPV d2 my battery cover kept falling off. Big disappointment from the IPV 4. My IPV 4 has been through hell and back, drops throws etc.. And still works like a champ. Looking at the new one they have coming the 3 LI just wonder if the quality will be as good as the 4/4s
  7. Are Ohm meters really needed if you have a box mod that can read the coil build before you fire it up? I've always just used my mod to read the coil build.
  8. Kanger Subtank Mini running the OCC 0.15 Nickle coil with 80VG juice and loving it on my IPV4 my settings in the Pic
  9. I will tell you exactly what you did, you burned out the coil and now every hit will taste like crap and burn because you are now taking in one part vapor and 3 parts burned up coil. Change your coil, clean your tank real well and try it at 26 watts to start see how that hits then go up slowly to about 36 watts and see. I bet you around 28 or a little higher will taste better. And for the future just because your box can go to 50watts doesn't mean you should. Also your occ coil may be rated for 50 watts max like they say 30-50watts on the coil. Every time I had a coil say that the higher watta
  10. Picked up a new Kanger Subtank mini today with a pack of there nickel coils, the Occ ones seem decent. To my surprise with the new ones they are coming with the vertical occ coils, but the big surprise was the RBA, that now has the holes drilled direct from Kanger now, I figured I would share since I seen the video in this thread showing how the older ones can be modded by drilling with a dremal. Guess Kangertech listened. Took a photo to show you guys
  11. that's how I was taught to build with Kanthal, if it's wrong not a huge problem what do you do personally? Do you cut them so they are not going up to the post? I understand thank you for that explanation yes I did at room temp but when wicked and still not fired I hit it again to be safe and that's when I got the 0.178 ish The build fires just issues with the resistance jumping that changed now just crap hits no juice flow or crappy flow
  12. That was the first reading I got before wicking, it's at 0.178 also if I try to do a dual coil the reading drops down to 0.74 why is that? Like I said in not the most experienced with building
  13. Using a IPV 4 with updated software started running it at 40J at 500 degrees, took it down to 35 no good set it at 400 degrees no good Tryed a few settings, the coil is 11 wraps
  14. So had a nice single coil build going with 28 gauge NI200 it read at 0.123 on my IPV 4 so I decided to wick it and give it a go. Put it all together and got a reading of 0.047 so I was like what the hell, I took it back apart and got 0.143 reading so I figure something had to be going on. I noticed the chimney was touching the coil so I re adjusted the coil and set it up again. Got it a reading of 0.178 the first few hits were nice, but then I get a reading of 0.268 on the coil I know with NI200 standard coils when the temp goes up they will read higher. I was getting a real bad hit taste
  15. where do you purchase it from??
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