cany Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hey guys my Mini has been popping/spattering a bit much today. old coil and a new one tried all different Watts and airflow settings and its still doing it any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainbowtears Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Mine does it too...you can fix that by using the rba or use a higher vg juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Mine does it too...you can fix that by using the rba or use a higher vg juice.Its been fine since I got it It just started today 70vg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainbowtears Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hmm that's odd...do you use the rba or stock coils...I've heard ppl saying the stock coils could use a little more cotton. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Stock nickel coils Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainbowtears Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 That's really weird...I use the rba usually and never had issues with the stock coils...YouTube it maybe someone has found a fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iQuit Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I do get the occasional splattering on occ coils and it usually goes away when I temporarily raise my watts until it stops, then I lower it back down. On Ni buils (stock or RBA), it has yet to happen to me. Only thing I can think off is maybe temp setting? I run mine at 400-410F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 I do get the occasional splattering on occ coils and it usually goes away when I temporarily raise my watts until it stops, then I lower it back down. On Ni buils (stock or RBA), it has yet to happen to me. Only thing I can think off is maybe temp setting? I run mine at 400-410FGot temp set at 520 ill try lowering it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Mine must read a bit lower than yours. I am running mine at 370 degrees (it is much hotter, i am sure) With the factory Ni200 coils I was getting quite a bit of popping. I built the RBA wtih 28 ga Ni200 at .15 ohms and it is working much better, with little to no popping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Went down to 420 popping was less but still present but the flavor/warm vape wasnt. Im puzzled as to why this would happen out of the blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vapor Guy Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) I don't have the temp control coils yet but I noticed with the standard 0.5 & 1.2 coils I have got dry hits that were just terrible, I have got hot juice splatter etc.. I don't get it, even with the RBA coil, not to mention the cotton it came with was just making the juice taste ok, but not extra great. To me Kanger has had issues in the past and they still do, Kanger is a expensive name, but there quality don't seem to hold up to the price. Personally Joyetech has got them beat, so does innokin with there new sub series tanks. Idk what everyone else thinks but I know if I am paying 40.00 for a tank I expect everything to be top notch, and the coils for the tank should be top notch as well. Just my opinion Edited June 2, 2015 by Vapor Guy gag8tor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I haven't had any trouble with the stock coils at all. im just venturing a guess but I would say it's a combination of things or one of the followingthe juice itself - different juices have different contents. Some of those ingredients may contribute to popping. Flooding/over wicking - as iQUIT mentioned you can boost your wattage and burn off excess juice that has collected on the coil. This excess juice could cause popping. Do you notice it after your device has been sitting for a while and does it diminish with use? This is likely what is happening.condensation - vamping produces condensation in the chimney, drip tip and chamber. That condensation can make its way back down to the coil. Any excess moisture can cause that popping. Make sure you clean out your tank, pull the drip tip, mop up any condensation or excess liquid. Cleaning - if you clean your tanks and parts make sure you dry them thoroughly. There are lots of pockets and areas that collect moisture, especially if you have airflow control parts. Blow em out and dry them up well. thats my take on it. iQuit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Ill give another juice a try maybe thats it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iQuit Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Bebop is spot on, it could be a combination of factors...Have you done a blow off yet? Invert the ST mini, put your lips on one of the air holes while covering the other with your finger, and place a paper towel on the drip tip... and then gently blow. That should get rid some of the excess liquid if flooded. What I noticed with stock coils is that if I get constant flooding/splattering and I have to raise my settings higher and higher, it is time to replace the coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iQuit Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I don't have the temp control coils yet but I noticed with the standard 0.5 & 1.2 coils I have got dry hits that were just terrible, I have got hot juice splatter etc.. I don't get it, even with the RBA coil, not to mention the cotton it came with was just making the juice taste ok, but not extra great. To me Kanger has had issues in the past and they still do, Kanger is a expensive name, but there quality don't seem to hold up to the price. Personally Joyetech has got them beat, so does innokin with there new sub series tanks. Idk what everyone else thinks but I know if I am paying 40.00 for a tank I expect everything to be top notch, and the coils for the tank should be top notch as well. Just my opinion When I first got the subtank, I get dry hits all the time. I vape max VG and learned that 15-20W on stock coils is optimal for me. For RBA, it is mainly a wicking issue. I found the wicks barely touching the deck works best for me. Not much you can do with stock coils but it helps when you run a needle through the wick holes (end-to-end).On the newer coils, they now have wattage recommendation etched on the coil head based on juice blend ratio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vapor Guy Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Another thing I will add to this is Kanger is the most cloned brand on the market. Big difference from some vape shop or online website owners making 200% + profit or 25% profit. Some even buy the clones and sell legit coils for them. Even reputable suppliers sometimes turn to the side of big profit. Sad but true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 What I noticed with stock coils is that if I get constant flooding/splattering and I have to raise my settings higher and higher......This is what helped mine. When I was running the stock 1.2 ohm coils, I could run 30+ watts with 80VG/20PG juice and it would not pop at all. Now I am running the factory Ni200 coils at 37.5 watts and 450 degrees, and no popping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 For some strange reason its stopped popping 520 temp 24Watts just like I was using maybe a glitch I dunno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I am having a hard time getting used to this Temp control. I cut some juice with PG to thin it out a bit, and cut the nicotine a bit and it is totally reacting differently. I hope my mod is not going south...lol I have to remember the harder draw I pull on it the cooler the temp. If I draw slowly the limiting kicks in and in this mod it is kind of dramatic. It is nearly like it cools it off a bit more than it should. Watching it in the mirror it seems to be doing exactly what it is suppose to, but my tounge is getting a different reading...I may have to spring for an invader mini since you guys seem to be having great luck. I really can't afford it, I need to order juice too... when it rains it pours. Bebop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cany Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Jason, Try going into the 20's with the watts and try temp around 500-520 If Im drawing hard ill go 520 Plus @24watts seems to be a nice warm even vape for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I think that mine must read quite a bit lower than y'alls. I normally vape a 1.2 ohm kantal coil at 30 watts. It is not as hot as this is at 450. It is jumping all over the place. I think I may need to take it apart and clean all of the contacts. It was taking 450 to be satisfying earlier now it is too hot. My ohms are the same at rest .09 to .1, but every time I pick it up something has changed (not the numbers or settings, just the vape) I am starting to think despite the great reviews, this mod isn't very accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Which mod are you using Jason? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iQuit Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) Same thing happened to me Jason, and it scared me as I hate doing RMAs. I had mine all the way at 500F / 50J, and barely getting anything. I am not sure how different your mod has with mine. But I had to reset my resistance and lock it down (pressing + and - at the same time) which was strange since I have done so after I refilled my tank. Hope you get sorted out Edited June 4, 2015 by iQuit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Which mod are you using Jason? It is a Zero mod clone. It has the same chip as the Vapor Shark clone, and the Vapor Flask clones. (60 watt)Same thing happened to me Jason, and it scared me as I hate doing RMAs. I had mine all the way at 500F / 50J, and barely getting anything. I am not sure how different your mod has with mine. But I had to reset my resistance and lock it down (pressing + and - at the same time) which was strange since I have done so after I refilled my tank. Hope you get sorted outFrom what I have read the YiHi chips the best of the best on the market. I have not used their TC yet, but have used the DNA40 and I don't see that it is any better than what I have. Mine is a cheap Chinese clone chip. I do think mine is acting better today. I cleaned all of the contacts and adjusted my settings around so that I am happy with it again....for now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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