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Kanger sub mini


tazl37

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I keep getting dry hits on my mini, I have a 1.8 ohm build, 28g 2mm 9 wraps I think. I do my wick like they show on the videos just enough to pull thru the coil and it be a little tight then put the tank on pulling cotton up and cutting it just above the edge of the coil tank(whatever it's called). Using Japanese cotton. My juice is 50/50. Please help. I am dripping to wet the wick before filling my tank.

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I saw that video but im running 1.8 ohms with 50/50 so didn't think it applied to this build. Ok gonna try less cotton and will let ya know.

 

I bet I have built close to 100 builds on the SubTank Mini RDA.  I can tell you from experience that te best wicking possible you want it so tight you think it is going to screw up your coil.  In fact sometimes it does and I have to do a lot of adjusting after it is wicked.  Another tip is to trim your tails so that they just barely touch the deck.  You want them to fan out but not to cover the holes.

 

Here is a picture I took from one of the other forums (not my picture).

 

 

 
The general concensus over there is the best coil size is in the 2.5mm range and to stuff as much as 6mm wide of Japenese cotton only removing one of the covering layers from one side.
 
I have gone back to using rayon and may post a picture tonight if I get a chance to rebuild.
 
By the way, I run 1.5 ohms and 70pg/30vg juice @ 20 watts on the middle air holes.  I do not take extremely long draws, but not short either.
Edited by jasonculp
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what size wire are you using Jason?  And looks like 7 wraps.  I was trying to get 1.5 but ended up with 1.8.  Im gonna copy your build on a 2.5 mm.

 

That is not my build.  I snagged it off a SubTank mini post on another board.

 

When I was using standard wire, I liked 2.5 - 3 mm coil using 28 gauge 7 wraps. This will come in around 1.4 ohms, like this: My Coil  I have also had good luck with this one, if you have a regulated mod that can subohm (.8 ohms): My Coil  The hard thing is making the coil narrow enough to fit inside the deck without shorting your legs back to the coil. (it will cause a hot spot)

 

I am currently using Tiger Wire made by Comp at Fadora Vapor. It in my opinion delivers the most flavor at lower wattages than any other wire I have used.  It can be tempermental to work with, but it is worth it. The coil below is 30 gauge  wrapped in .9 flat kanthal. It is 6 wraps on 3mm it come in at 1.4ohms.

 

 
I am using rayon (not cotton) I have soaked it down and using a couple of small screwdrivers flattened it out and trimed it so that is barely sweeps the top of the deck.  It is so tight that it distorted the last wrap on the coil and I couldn't get it back straight.  I use the same technique with Japanese organic cotton.  It is so tight in the coil that I hold the ends and use a small screwdriver to push the coils back together. (it does not slide)
 
 

 
If you notice, the holes are completely uncovered.
 
I am currently vaping this at 25 watts and taking 10+ second drags and it is not running dry.  This really isn't how I vape, I am just testing it .  I normally run at 20 watts and 5 second drags.
 
I am testing the rayon because my coils were turning black within 3 days and this does not seem to be the case with rayon.  I don't know why, but it seems to be lasting much longer.  I went a week on the last coil and I bet it could have gone longer.
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Nice, thanks a lot Jason! I might have to see about getting some of that tiger wire. I didn't get a chance to work on it today but will get to it 2morrow and then let you know. Really do appreciate the time you put in to helping me out.[emoji4]

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Nice, thanks a lot Jason! I might have to see about getting some of that tiger wire. I didn't get a chance to work on it today but will get to it 2morrow and then let you know. Really do appreciate the time you put in to helping me out.[emoji4]

Here is a link to some pics of the Tiger Wire I did for Jason.

 

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Very true what jasonculp says. Although I do not have the kanger subtank mini yet, I have found that the tighter the cotton is through the coil the better wicking I get when using my tanks. I have been building a lot on the Lemo and the VOX edition orchid v4. When I get the Kanger subtank mini I will use the same method as I describe below.

 

I have been using Koh Gen Doh Japanese cotton. What I do additionally is:

 

1. Cut off a section of the cotton and remove one side of the thicker cotton side.

2. Fold it in half with the thicker side on the inside and the fluffier side on the outside and then roll it on my pant leg until its rounded (not too tight of a roll but tight enough (after practice you will get the feel for it).

3. Pinch one end and insert it into my coil making sure its nice and tight.

4. Cut the ends about 1/4 inch from my deck (rather long).

5. Take a sewing needle or pin and start running it through the ends (takes several minutes for each side) taking out all clumps and gently pull the excess off (this leaves the ends almost see through).

6.  Trim the wick ends very close to the deck and cutting off excess from the edges.

7. Place chimney onto the deck (do not saturate with juice yet to keep the wick ends fluffy).

8. Gently, very gently with needle slightly move wick ends towards chimney deck just enough to see light from the juice channels.

9. Add juice to only the coil and slightly pulse the mods fire button to draw in the juice (not long enough to make vapor). Continue until the entire wick is wet.

10. Reassemble tank, fill and enjoy.

 

I used to get dry hits when I took too long of an inhale or when chain vaping. Using this rebuilding technique I never get dry hits anymore. YMMV. I found this method on youtube someplace but for the life of me cant remember who made it.

Edited by dragongunner
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Here is a few pic's to go with my instructions. Sorry if this is pic heavy.

 

20150406_163123.jpg

 

1. Cut off a section of the cotton and remove one side of the thicker cotton side.

 

20150406_163424.jpg

 

2. Fold it in half with the thicker side on the inside and the fluffier side on the outside and then roll it on my pant leg until its rounded (not too tight of a roll but tight enough (after practice you will get the feel for it).

 

20150406_163523.jpg

 

3. Pinch one end and insert it into my coil making sure its nice and tight.

 

20150406_163653.jpg

 

4. Cut the ends about 1/4 inch from my deck (rather long).

 

20150406_163821.jpg

 

5. Take a sewing needle or pin and start running it through the ends (takes several minutes for each side) taking out all clumps and gently pull the excess off (this leaves the ends almost see through).

 

20150406_163936.jpg

 

20150406_164216.jpg

 

6.  Trim the wick ends very close to the deck and cutting off excess from the edges.

 

20150406_164549.jpg

 

7. Place chimney onto the deck (do not saturate with juice yet to keep the wick ends fluffy).

 

20150406_164720.jpg

 

8. Gently, very gently with needle slightly move wick ends towards chimney deck just enough to see light from the juice channels.

 

9. Add juice to only the coil and slightly pulse the mods fire button to draw in the juice (not long enough to make vapor). Continue until the entire wick is wet.

 

20150406_165012.jpg

 

10. Reassemble tank, fill and enjoy.

 

Like I said before this is just the method that I use and it should also work with the Kanger subtank mini as well. Oh I used 26ga kanthal wrapped on a 1/8 precision screwdriver, 6 wraps and it came out to 1 ohm. Have a great day everyone.

Edited by dragongunner
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^^^Good grief. That should be a tutorial for real!!!^^^

I'm gonna have to go back up and take a crap load of screen shots and save this for this afternoon. Gonna try this with an IGO rda that I bought from Comp.

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Thanks! That is a great tutorial!  I never knew about thining it out like that.  I don't plan on rebuilding until the end of the week but I will try it.  This is the first RTA I have had that I like.  I am thinking about getting a Lemo 2.  I had one in my cart last night, along with another Mini and some Ko Gen Do, and I shut my computer off and walked away....lol

 

I am looking for a smaller RTA setup that isn't so big on my RDA30 or Cloupor Mini.  I want somtihing about the size of the Nano with an RTA.

Edited by jasonculp
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