FXRich

If you have some old coils hanging around you can try the o-rings from them, that's what I use. or maybe you might have some old drip tips you don't use.
Some hardware stores carry o-rings

I don't drip, but with a saturated coil you should be able to get at least 3 or 4 good hits before you have to wet the wick again. You will have to get used to it and that takes a little time. Other people on here drip maybe one of them can tell you more than I can about how often you have to wet the wick, a lot of it probably depends on how deep your well is, and how much juice is available to be wicked before you pump it again. The popping is no big deal, my subtanks do it quite often.

Some juices will pop and sizzle more than others, especially if they have water in it In another post you said you have a Kanger dripbox,  You might be pumping too much juice and flooding it, that can cause popping too.

I currently use 6 subtank minis and 3 subtank nanos, also I use a KPT2, all with different flavors in them. The subtank mini is a good choice for a newbie because of its versatility and the wide range of coils available. My personal choice for a Subtank mini coil is the RBA or the 1.2 ohm horizontal coil. I know lots of newbies that started with a Subtank Mini kit and were completely happy with them.

I have had good luck with the Kanger 75w mod, but I don't have any of the other mods you mentioned so I can't compare them. Maybe I should expand my collection with other mods besides Kanger, but I tend to stick to what works for me. The same thing with why I have ridden Harleys for almost 50 years, no desire to try something else.

I machined a lot of parts for racers, mostly late model, and sprint, one of the few customers I have left after I semi retired is Fuel Safe, maybe you heard of them. With friends in the racing business they talked me into letting them tweak the engine in my dodge, I gained HP and MPG.

I received my Kanger 120 TC  yesterday and have been messing with it a lot. It seems to be solidly built, and uses 2 18650 batteries in series, I believe they are in series because one battery goes +up the other goes +down. The battery door fits really well, and is a little difficult to get off the first time. It has 4 TC modes besides wattage mode, Ti, Ni, NiCr, and SUS, SUS is the Chinese way of saying SS. I have only tried Ti, and SS 316L coils so far, the Ti coils will make it pulse very noticeable, the 316 coils don't seem to pulse at all, except you can see the watts change in the display. Another thing is the TCR curve for the SUS mode seems to be for SS 304, when I set the TC for SUS I have to set it about 50 degrees lower than what I want it to be. Right now I set it between 350f and 390f depending on the juice I'm using, which means its running from 400f to 450f going by Steam engine calculations. The firmware is upgradeable so maybe in the future they will have a upgrade changing it to a 316L curve. In the end I have to say its a well built mod, but a little bigger than I prefer, its only 1mm thicker than the Kbox mini, but 2mm taller and 17mm wider. It will make a good at home mod.
Its probably the same as the Kbox 200w TC mod, but I decided on the 120 because I don't need 120 watts much less 200 watts, besides they didn't have the 200 in stock, and its about $10.00 more.

That's what is nice about using SS coils, they can be used in TC or power mode.

The best root beer float I have had is not your fathers root beer and vanilla ice cream, and no you don't vape it.

I do a root beer and vanilla custard all the time. Its pretty good.
15% root beer and 5% vanilla custard

Pretty much all I have is Kanger stuff, and I'm not that impressed with the top tank, I prefer the regular Subtank mini. The new Kanger 75W TC mod is a very good mod, can't say much about the tank that comes with it though. I also have a Kanger 120w TC mod that works very well, both the 75w and the 120w are very versatile with TC modes for Ni, Ti, SS, and NiCr. You can also use the NiCr setting for Kanthal, but you have to lower the temp setting. I have tried it and it does work. What works for me might not work for you since I don't use factory coils, I only use the RBA with SS 316L wire, unless I'm experimenting.

Watts/Volts -  they are a product of each other. If you adjust one, you are automatically adjusting the other.  You do not set them independently of each other.
Everybody has slightly ddifferent settings they prefer. There is no magic number. It's kind of like driving a car - some people go 25 in a 30 and some people go 35 in a 30.  At 15W you're probably doing 40 in a 25.  
Try adjusting it to taste and go from there. And remember, if you're doing 40 in a 25 you adjust your budget for tickets.

Those coils are SS316 you can use them in TC if you have a SS TC setting or you can use them in power mode. I'm not familiar with that mod so maybe someone will show up that has one and give you more info.

Welcome Gregg, you will have more control with a digital mod.

mailto:support@innokin.com Try this link they may be able to help you. Unless someone here has had the same problem we can't be much help. From what I have heard about that mod it has built in safety features that are unpredictable.
I did find a video on the net that describes this problem, and said to fix it just simply plug the charger cord in and it will reset the display.

Welcome to VT we will answer your questions if we have enough info, and we are similar to the government and love to spend other peoples money.

Cany if you like uncomplicated you would like the Kanger 75w TC mod. In power mode you adjust the watts, and in TC mode the only thing that is adjustable is the temperature. When you put a tank on it you will be asked whether its a different coil, just push the yes button or the no button. The only user error I can see happening is to pick the wrong mode for the coil you are using.

40mm don't leave you enough to build a coil, I had 83mm between welds. I wonder if the Kanger Clapton coils use NR leads welded on? I would dissect mine but plan on trying it some day.

Yes mine had non resistance leads welded on, but I cut them off like you did. I sent Kanger another e-mail but not holding my breath for a answer. When I used the wire to build a coil and used steam engine the result matched predictions within 0.01 ohms using 26g 316L or 317L looks like I might have been wrong on guessing they used 304.
one difference is I had 83mm between welds, they probably used a lighter gauge in your coil.

Was your wire welded?  There is quite a bit of difference in the properties between the legs and coil on mine.  I cut mine at the welds and just measured the resistance of the "coil" wire.  I am like you and think it has to be SS of some type.
I measured my resistance in a simular way.  I did it on a Velocity deck in a single loop.  All I had handy to check it was the building ohm meter.  I had 5 or 6 digital TC mods within arms reach...but didn't think to try one
I normally measure bearings and gaskets....lol  bearings are generally a standard size and the caliper works fine.  On gaskets if we can get witing a 32nd we are doing pretty good!  Heck I use a stainless steel pocket rule for most of my stuff.

I didn't figure on using a ssocc coil that I have so I dismantled it. After cutting off the leads that were attached to it I ended up with 82mm of 0.40mm wire (26 gauge) I installed it in a Kanger RBA (1 big loop) put it on 75w TC mod in watt mode. I got a 0.52 reading. which closely matches what 317L would be. Nichrome would be about 0.7 SS304 would be about 0.45 and 316L would be about 0.47 So my unscientific study leads me to believe it is probably 317L or possibly 316L It is non magnetic so it can't be SS430.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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According to Sweet Vapes they are Nichrome, but other sites say they are SS, Kanger online say they are SS Vape NW hints at them being SS, Kanger doesn't respond to e-mails, My guess is 304 SS. Kanthal is magnetic, but Nichrome is not, so using a magnet to check them won't work. The only way to know is to measure the diameter, and check the ohms to see what the best match would be.

On the coils, it all depends on the type of vape you enjoy.
I am not really familiar with the Kanger's Clapton Coil, but most Clapton's require more wattage are a bit slower to heat up and stay hotter longer.  They seem to produce a bit more flavor than "standard" coils.  Normally if you are a direct lung inhaler the .5 ohm coils work best, and if you are a mouth to lung hitter you will probably like the 1.2 ohm coils better.  From what I am reading the Clapton, and SSOCC (stainless steel organic cotton) coils are actually use Kanthal or NiChrome wire which are best used in Power Mode/Wattage.  While the Ni200 are only to be used with Temp Control.  My advice is to stick with the Power Mode for a bit, until you get used to your mod, then try the Ni200 and Temp Control when you get accustom to the mod/tank.
Only you can figure out the best numbers to use with your personal preferences, your tank, and your juice.  I start with my favorite juice, prime up a new coil, fill the tank, let it sit for a while, make a few pulls with the air slots closed not firing the mod, then set it at about 15 - 20 watts and try it.  I go up until it gets where I like it.  If it tastes burnt, turn it down.
As for what you really have to pay attention to on the coils, only that you are using the correct coil in the correct mode.  They will all  work great on that mod. @VaporTron pretty much nailed the battery end of things.  With this type of mod, you coil has no relation to battery safety, only the Wattage you have it set at.  I personally don't recommend anyone going over 50 watts or so with a single 18650 mod unless you take a lot of precautions, such as buying special batteries, and a lot of them.   At 75Watts (maximum) ÷ 3.4V (normal low battery cut out) = 22.05 +10% for efficiency of the mod  24.26Amps so you would need a good 25 - 30 amp battery.  Please don't believe the wrappers that people put on batteries, there are very few that can actually handle 30 Amps and they do it at a cost of capacity (they don't stay charged as long)  True 30A batteries are the LG HB2, HB4, and HB6.  Just under these would be the Sony VTC4.
With the Subtank Mini line of tanks you probably will not be able to use more than 50 watts.  At 50 watts you are only looking at 16 Amps battery draw.  This really opens up your battery choices.  The batteries I recommend that will work great in my personal favorite order is: Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, Samsung 25R, LG HE4 or LG HE2.
Please feel free to come back and ask questions, if you have any!
 

I mix my own juice and the only difference basically is the flavor and have noticed that some gunk it up more than others. When I use a flavor that gunk's up the coil fast I add a few drops of water to it and it seems to help some. 

Bebop is right about the resistance, a .5 coil at 3.7-4.2 volts is 27-35 watts, a 1.0 coil at 3.7-4.2 volts is 13-17 watts. In my opinion 35 watts is too much, I run a .5 coil at 10-12 watts, but everyone has different preferences.
I did not like box mods to start with but get a better vape with them, so now I use them.