jasonculp

Hypothyroidism is a natural condition as we age, and he says himself in the video... "I sit around on my a## all day"...  Lack of exercise, poor eating habits, lack of Iodine in your diet, and the simple fact of AGE all contribute to hypothyroidism.  I personally think he's doing a great disservice to everyone in the vaping community by saying it's a "side effect of vaping", because it clearly is NOT.  Nothing in the vaping ingredients, nor the volume of water he is taking (or not taking) have to do with his condition.
Oh, BTW, the product he's hocking (Ultima)... is an electrolyte supplement that contains ... you guessed it... IODINE in the sodium content....  Your body needs Iodine to promote a healthy Thyroid gland. 
Here's the ingredients:
Selenium, Zinc, Phosphorus, Calcium, Potassium, chloride, Sodium and Magnesium.
Everything but the chloride content would contribute to fewer muscle cramps, and reduction of his hypothyroid symptoms/condition   I also seriously doubt his Doctor's diagnosis of hypothyroidism... Typically, the condition includes greying hair, obesity, jaundice coloring, neck swelling (goiters), and loss of hair (which he obviously does not have an issue with, lol).

I went out yesterday and hunted down a 30mm triforce. I have the regular one too, so since I'm already buying coils for it, I had to get the bigger one so I don't have to fill so much at work. I wish they had made it in black but I'll live.
Finally found numbers to change the TCR to get the ni200 coils to work closer to right, so right now I'm running TC on the big tank. I do love the triforces, the production is excellent and flavor is fantastic. Overall I'm pleased with them.
 

I finally got a few more flavors.  I can't wait until I have time to try them out!
 

I say that.  I just use it as a rule of thumb.  The major manufacturers of batteries that work well in vaping are Samsung, LG, and Sony.  They do not put ratings on their cells, but have done exhaustive research on how they preform.  In most cases, the batteries from these 3 manufactures are not only better than the re wrapped batteries, they are cheaper.
If you want to know how a battery really performs, here is a good list that is done by an independent electrical engineer: Mooch's Blog
I am not saying that Imren, MXJO, or Efest batteries are bad.  I just feel it is much safer to go with a known commodity. A recent case in December Efest released the Purple 35A 3000 mAh which turned out to be a LG MH1, which is a good battery, but it is only 10A, then denied it and went after the testers that proved it.  Imren's 30A 3500mah Green battery were actually LG MJ1 and Panasonic NCR18650GA1, both 10A batteries.  When you buy a good Samsung 30Q or LG HG2, you know what you are getting, a good 20A battery.  In fact Samsung only rates the 30Q at 15A but tests have shown it is actually a 20A battery.  The tried and true Samsung 25R's have been proven to be one of the most versatile batteries on the market, not to mention cheapest.
Don't worry about the Ohms of your atomizer, as it has no effect on the battery draw of a variable wattage mod.  What you need to be concerned about is the wattage you have the mod set at.  My rule of thumb is with a good 20A battery keep it under 60 watts per battery.  So your Fuchai should stay at 120 watts or less, and the RX200 under 180 watts.
In the wattage range you are running (55-75watts) you are only pulling a maximum of 12A or so assuming a 90% efficient board.  You are probably only pulling less than 8A in the RX200, so you are pretty safe with just about any good 15 - 20 amp INR/IMR battery.  Where most of the problem comes in is when your batteries get low and the mod is trying to boost the voltage is causes it to work really hard.  This is more of a problem with the 1 and 2 cell mods as they are trying to take 3.7 or 7.4 volts and boost it to make the wattage required at the atomizer.  With the RX200 you have 10.5 volts available when it is nearly dead, so it doesn't have to work as hard to supply the requested Wattage.
Another thing we overlook too often is that we sometimes stick the mod in our pocket and the buttons get pushed, or they might malfunction so I like to have plenty of head room with my batteries.

Welcome to Vapor Talk!
 
With the VTC mini you need to click the fire button 3 times and select the proper mode.  If you want to use Power Mode, use the right button to select POWER. Start quite a bit lower than you think you need and go up until you are happy with the vape, but not tasting anything burnt.
If you are running it in TC mode, start with a cool atomizer, the click the fire button 3 times, use the right button until you get to SS316. While it is flashing click the left button to go to the PWR set it for something around 25watts.  Click the left button one more time and then the right one to lock the resistance.  Then hit the fire button.  Turn the temp up to about 300F or so and try it.  If it is too hot turn it down, too cold turn it up.  You may have to go back and turn the PWR up if it will not reach the temp, if it is going into temp control too fast, turn the PWR down.
I am sure that is clear as mud, but basically start low and work your way up, then keep asking questions and we will try to help you get it where you need it!

Depending on what you are looking to spend, I can only reference what I've got that I've been happy with...
After I decided to step up from my original vape purchase, I got a sigelei fuchai 200w tc and triforce tank. I love it, plenty of production, and flavor is fantastic. (I'm a flavor chaser more than cloud chaser) the con to the fuchai is the tc seems to be lacking, I got ni200 coils with the triforce and couldn't get it to hit right, as I understand the whole TC concept, you are supposed to get better flavor and no dry hits, etc. What I've found with the fuchai, is that since you can't change the TCR (coefficient) you are stuck with their programming. I could crank the temp to max, and still not get as good of a hit as in power mode at 70watts on a regular kanthal coil.
 
That being said, I also jumped on the wismec rx200 bandwagon. It came with a TFV4 tank. I needed more battery life for while at work. I tried TC with it, (only on the triforce tanks and coils) and again found it lacking, but I found posts that said you could adjust the tcr to 600 and it would be better, and I tried that today with my new 30mm triforce I bought today, and it seems to be working, although I've found if I up the wattage or temp too high, I still get a dry hit. So I'm kinda puzzled with that whole craze.
 
So all that being said and this getting wordy, the fuchai is awesomely simple, big display, simple menu navigation, easy as easy gets, I like it's screen far better than the rx200's because of size alone. It may perform better in TC with another tank setup, I don't know I've only tried it with the triforce, I haven't bought any TC coils for the TFV4 yet to try it on that. Keep in mind the fuchai only has TC modes for nickel and titanium.
The rx200 is awesome in itself, battery life is far superior, 3 batteries vs 2, it's a bit more complicated tho, but you have more options for TC, nickel, titanium and stainless steel.
 
I can't speak to the other mod's you brought up. But unless you are intent on getting into the whole temp control thing, I wouldn't focus too much on it.

Pretty much all I have is Kanger stuff, and I'm not that impressed with the top tank, I prefer the regular Subtank mini. The new Kanger 75W TC mod is a very good mod, can't say much about the tank that comes with it though. I also have a Kanger 120w TC mod that works very well, both the 75w and the 120w are very versatile with TC modes for Ni, Ti, SS, and NiCr. You can also use the NiCr setting for Kanthal, but you have to lower the temp setting. I have tried it and it does work. What works for me might not work for you since I don't use factory coils, I only use the RBA with SS 316L wire, unless I'm experimenting.

And more new ones coming out every day or so it seems. It's hard to keep up with them anymore.

Don't be afraid of the wattage, I have the rx200 and I don't go above 75watts. You set the wattage, it doesn't do it automatically. I got it primarily for battery life, it lasts all night at work and then some for me. I'm also using sub ohm tanks that tend to use a bit more juice.
I also suggest buying tank/mod combo. I have the rx200 that came with a tfv4 tank and it's a good tank, but I seem to burn thru coils far too fast for my liking, I've only had one last more than a week. But I did just go out and get another triforce for the rx200 this time I got the 30mm one (huge) so I won't have to keep refilling at work. It holds like 12ml vs 5ml like most of the "larger" tanks.
I seem to have better luck with the triforce coils, but you don't have as many options. tfv4's you can get quad, sextuple, octuple coils and the triforce is either kanthal or ni200, but they seem to last longer. My other mod is a fuchai also a 200watt box, but the temp control on it doesn't seem programmed right for temp control, I just got temp control working on the rx200 and I had to mess with the TCR settings on it to get it to work right. It's stock nickel mode just doesn't produce on the big triforce ni200 coil for some odd reason.
 
One thing is certain, there is no shortage of choices out there... The market is absolutely flooded with options.

LOL!  It was back when I first started using dual coil RBA's with a lot of airflow.  My 24mg 50/50 juice was just too much.  I still have it somewhere.  I am currently using the Wizard Labs stuff right now when I make juice, and it is pretty good.  My work has kept me from making juice or any "hobby" stuff for a while....my life has gone from busy, to OMG.

Sounds like a good habit to have. Everyone always comes to me when they need something because chances are extremely good that I'll have it. Between the two of us, we could probably teach the Boy Scouts a thing or two.   

I will have to second what @Tam says.  I have found very few juices that other people rave about, and I like too.  I given away so much e-liquid that I bought on someone's suggestion and didn't like it.  Try to find places that have samples.  I usually start with the smallest bottle they have and test it.
Just another suggestion.  It seemed like when I switched from tobacco flavors to a totally different profile such as fruity flavors is when I really turned the corner with cravings.  I know many people use tobacco flavors for years, and enjoy it, but for me it made a huge difference.  I loved smoking, I still love the smell of second hand smoke, but I can tell you that the taste is now terrible to me!  When I quit I was between 2-1/2 and 3 packs a day.

From personal experience and also that of so many others we've helped along on this forum, I have one bit of advice for you when it comes to any flavor:
Try it for yourself.
I'm not trying to be non-helpful, but everyone tastes juice in a different way, it's all so subjective. What I think is the greatest tasting juice in the world, someone else will say it tastes like wet socks to them. Four people can say this is the best tasting tobacco juice out there but it may taste awful for you. The only way to find out is for you to try it for yourself. If they have it in a small size, buy it to try it. Then, if you like it, buy it in a bigger bottle. Just know that if you let it sit for a week or so (this is called steeping by some), the flavor will deepen and get richer, you'll also probably taste different notes that will come out with time.

Welcome to Vapor Talk, it is good to have another "Vape Geek" on board!
Sorry, I can turn a short answer into an essay.

I've been getting emails from all the vendors I purchase from that they're having Valentine's Day sales. Are there any vendors you usually buy from? I'd start there to check for sale prices. Check in the vendors' section of this forum, they should also be having sales. 

Watts/Volts -  they are a product of each other. If you adjust one, you are automatically adjusting the other.  You do not set them independently of each other.
Everybody has slightly ddifferent settings they prefer. There is no magic number. It's kind of like driving a car - some people go 25 in a 30 and some people go 35 in a 30.  At 15W you're probably doing 40 in a 25.  
Try adjusting it to taste and go from there. And remember, if you're doing 40 in a 25 you adjust your budget for tickets.

Thank you for elaborating and pointing him to Steam-Engine! You are correct. I was trying to keep it simple. However, resistance does matter. Simply put, if you leave the wattage the same and change coil resistance you will have an unsatisfactory vape. Say you have a 0.5 ohm coil (24 ga Kanthal, 1/8" ID) running at 30 Watts. Steam-Engine shows a Heat Flux of 265 mW/mm^2. Now change the resistance to 1.2 ohms. Steam-Engine now shows a Heat Flux of 110 mW/mm^2. To get the same Heat Flux of 265 mW/mm^2 you have to change the wattage to 72 Watts. Therefore, with everything unchanged except the resistance (# of wraps) you will have to change the wattage by 42 watts to get the same Heat Flux. Granted, this only addresses the temperature of the vape and due to the increased number of wraps you will have greater surface area contact with the wicking which will increase the amount of vapor being produced.
The simple point I am trying to make is that resistance does matter significantly, as well as a number of other factors. A person can go as deep into it as they want. It's a great hobby as well as a great alternative to analog smokes. It really comes down to finding your personal preference. As you continue to vape your preference may change (well, mine did as well as a multitude of other Vapers). My suggestions are based upon my journey and trying to recommend something that would minimize potential future purchases and provide a satisfying vaping experience for the longest time possible.
With all that's been said, the OP may find that getting an Aspire Nautilus tank would be all that's needed to get a satisfying vape with their 20 Watt Mod... for now. I still have one myself and still use it ocasionally, although I've increased the air flow by drilling the largest air intake hole larger as well as drilling the coil positive pin air flow larger as well.
The OP was asking about a tank that had greater vapor production... it would help if we knew what they had right now. I may have missed it but I don't recall the OP ever saying. All I know is that the OP has a 20 Watt istick Mod that they aren't thrilled with.

Sorry, you can't apply Ohm's law that way in a variable wattage mod.  The only thing that changes the battery draw is the wattage you have it set on, and on the amount of voltage in the battery.  You have to apply Ohm's law to both sides of the board separately.
Here is some great links to explain it much better than I can: Mooch's blog - Calculating Battery Current Draw for a Regulated Mod
also Steam Engine's Battery Drain Calculator   Make sure to change to a Regulated APV, then power regulated: Variable Wattage mode.  For a good explanation check out the "How it Works" link in the bottom right hand corner.
Semi-short explanation is that in a regulated mod your boost/buck is in between the atomizer and the battery.  The only thing that each side has in common is the wattage you have it set to (or it sets itself to in temp mode)  In a single 18650 mod you are boosting the voltage to get to say 50 watts at the atomizer.  Ohm's law works on this side, you have to take 50 watts with .5 ohms = which is 5volts and 10amps at the atomizer.  Ohm's Law says if you are asking for 50 watts from the battery, which is only has 3.7 volts you have a draw of 13.5A (this is assuming 100% efficient boost converter with does not exist)  The easy way to calculate it is 50watts /3.7 Volts =  13.5 Amps.  The rule of thumb is to use the low cut off Voltage for your mod, because it is drawing the most trying to boost the voltage to reach the requested wattage, so we normally use 3.5 volts.  We also add 10% to assume the board is only 90% efficient.
The RX200 is a unique mod in that it uses 3 18650's in series.  At nominal voltage you have 11.1 Volts.  So to supply 50 watts it is only pulling a 4.3A load on your batteries.  I have no idea how efficient or if there is much loss in a buck circuit, I have never thought about it that much  
Long and short of it, your atomizer resistance had zero effect on the battery life* of a variable wattage mod.  Watts you have it set to makes the difference.
*most people, including myself, use much more power with low ohm coils, therefore batteries don't last as long.

I finally got a few more flavors.  I can't wait until I have time to try them out!
 

Sorry, you can't apply Ohm's law that way in a variable wattage mod.  The only thing that changes the battery draw is the wattage you have it set on, and on the amount of voltage in the battery.  You have to apply Ohm's law to both sides of the board separately.
Here is some great links to explain it much better than I can: Mooch's blog - Calculating Battery Current Draw for a Regulated Mod
also Steam Engine's Battery Drain Calculator   Make sure to change to a Regulated APV, then power regulated: Variable Wattage mode.  For a good explanation check out the "How it Works" link in the bottom right hand corner.
Semi-short explanation is that in a regulated mod your boost/buck is in between the atomizer and the battery.  The only thing that each side has in common is the wattage you have it set to (or it sets itself to in temp mode)  In a single 18650 mod you are boosting the voltage to get to say 50 watts at the atomizer.  Ohm's law works on this side, you have to take 50 watts with .5 ohms = which is 5volts and 10amps at the atomizer.  Ohm's Law says if you are asking for 50 watts from the battery, which is only has 3.7 volts you have a draw of 13.5A (this is assuming 100% efficient boost converter with does not exist)  The easy way to calculate it is 50watts /3.7 Volts =  13.5 Amps.  The rule of thumb is to use the low cut off Voltage for your mod, because it is drawing the most trying to boost the voltage to reach the requested wattage, so we normally use 3.5 volts.  We also add 10% to assume the board is only 90% efficient.
The RX200 is a unique mod in that it uses 3 18650's in series.  At nominal voltage you have 11.1 Volts.  So to supply 50 watts it is only pulling a 4.3A load on your batteries.  I have no idea how efficient or if there is much loss in a buck circuit, I have never thought about it that much  
Long and short of it, your atomizer resistance had zero effect on the battery life* of a variable wattage mod.  Watts you have it set to makes the difference.
*most people, including myself, use much more power with low ohm coils, therefore batteries don't last as long.

So I am digging my new (ish) Youde Zephyrus V2 tank!  Holy cow they made some nice improvements to this gem and I loved the first version.  They improved the top fill design so you don't have to twist off the top and unplug that little rubber deal.  Now, you just twist the top 90 deg and fill and you're good to go.  Also, they have provided a plug that allows you to use in single coil mode which means it is now suitable for TC mode and that is fantastic.  They also totally redesigned the wicking ports and it is much easier to wick and soaks up juice like a sponge.  This thing is a juice hog but oh so good. I'm getting a couple more.

Welcome to Vapor Talk!
 
With the VTC mini you need to click the fire button 3 times and select the proper mode.  If you want to use Power Mode, use the right button to select POWER. Start quite a bit lower than you think you need and go up until you are happy with the vape, but not tasting anything burnt.
If you are running it in TC mode, start with a cool atomizer, the click the fire button 3 times, use the right button until you get to SS316. While it is flashing click the left button to go to the PWR set it for something around 25watts.  Click the left button one more time and then the right one to lock the resistance.  Then hit the fire button.  Turn the temp up to about 300F or so and try it.  If it is too hot turn it down, too cold turn it up.  You may have to go back and turn the PWR up if it will not reach the temp, if it is going into temp control too fast, turn the PWR down.
I am sure that is clear as mud, but basically start low and work your way up, then keep asking questions and we will try to help you get it where you need it!

Sorry, you can't apply Ohm's law that way in a variable wattage mod.  The only thing that changes the battery draw is the wattage you have it set on, and on the amount of voltage in the battery.  You have to apply Ohm's law to both sides of the board separately.
Here is some great links to explain it much better than I can: Mooch's blog - Calculating Battery Current Draw for a Regulated Mod
also Steam Engine's Battery Drain Calculator   Make sure to change to a Regulated APV, then power regulated: Variable Wattage mode.  For a good explanation check out the "How it Works" link in the bottom right hand corner.
Semi-short explanation is that in a regulated mod your boost/buck is in between the atomizer and the battery.  The only thing that each side has in common is the wattage you have it set to (or it sets itself to in temp mode)  In a single 18650 mod you are boosting the voltage to get to say 50 watts at the atomizer.  Ohm's law works on this side, you have to take 50 watts with .5 ohms = which is 5volts and 10amps at the atomizer.  Ohm's Law says if you are asking for 50 watts from the battery, which is only has 3.7 volts you have a draw of 13.5A (this is assuming 100% efficient boost converter with does not exist)  The easy way to calculate it is 50watts /3.7 Volts =  13.5 Amps.  The rule of thumb is to use the low cut off Voltage for your mod, because it is drawing the most trying to boost the voltage to reach the requested wattage, so we normally use 3.5 volts.  We also add 10% to assume the board is only 90% efficient.
The RX200 is a unique mod in that it uses 3 18650's in series.  At nominal voltage you have 11.1 Volts.  So to supply 50 watts it is only pulling a 4.3A load on your batteries.  I have no idea how efficient or if there is much loss in a buck circuit, I have never thought about it that much  
Long and short of it, your atomizer resistance had zero effect on the battery life* of a variable wattage mod.  Watts you have it set to makes the difference.
*most people, including myself, use much more power with low ohm coils, therefore batteries don't last as long.

Those coils are SS316 you can use them in TC if you have a SS TC setting or you can use them in power mode. I'm not familiar with that mod so maybe someone will show up that has one and give you more info.

I have not got a Herakles Plus yet.  I do like the way it looks, and the new design features.  My top 2 tanks, that I own, at this time are the Crown, and the TFV4 mini.  So far the Crown gets more use, but that may be just because I run a more preferred flavor in the Crown.  I am also very interested in the Aromamizer.  @iQuit has given it a thumbs up, and our vaping styles are very similar.  I think @cany has a Herakles Plus, hopefully he will chime in.