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Everything posted by Tam
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Earthling gave some very good advice and recommendations. The following is not set in stone but a good guideline: More PG = thinner juice, more throat hit, more flavor More VG = thicker juice (read: will gunk up coils faster), more vapor, a somewhat smoother/slightly sweeter taste but doesn't carry flavor as well Higher nicotine content = more throat hit/harsher vape From everything I've read and heard about the new Aspire Nautilus mini and its vertical coil, this might be just what you're looking for to help with the vapor production along with the juice PG/VG ratio. I'd go with a 1.5 or 1.8 ohm coil and a variable voltage device like your eGo Twist or a Vision Spinner/Vision Spinner 2 so you can play with the voltage. I higher voltage might also produce more vapor. Just keep in mind that if you go too high, your juice may taste burnt. Start at the lowest setting, vape. If that's not doing it for you, turn it up a little, vape. Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary. Once you start tasting a burning flavor, dial it down a bit and that should be the sweet spot for that particular juice. Most fruit flavors need a lower voltage setting while many bakery flavors like it a little hotter. Welcome to Vapor Talk.
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I'm not sure what it is that Chris uses for VT. Once in a while, though, things do get through. That's why he keeps us around.
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That would be me. Lol
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And I am the new admin who just banned you from the site and took off your spammy links.
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I've done the same thing, Earthling. After all this time I've tried so many different tanks. It's hard to remember what goes where and what takes what after awhile.
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I'm running a new contest for some Fadora juice in the contest area. Everyone (including new members) can play. Come on over and join the fun!
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We all learn different things every day. Here's another lesson. Atomizers and cartomizers (cartos) are different. Cartomizers are atomizers with a filler material inside. These are not made for direct dripping like an atomizer, which has no filler material inside so you drip juice directly onto the heating coil. The flavor difference between the two are amazing. With the carto, in my experience, you get a muted flavor. The atomizer gives you a more true flavor of the juice because it's not filtered before it gets heated.
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I was going to say the same thing. Every bottom feeder I've ever used filled from the bottom.
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This may be a stupid question but are you filling from the top or the bottom?
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Resistance and Nic and vapor production
Tam replied to bcartervol98's topic in General Vaping Discussion
When needed I've just held in the vapor a few extra seconds and noticed it produced a visible difference in the amount of vapor I exhale. -
Still doing good, B! Get back on it and I'll be over here with my pom poms cheering for your next weigh in.
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Only if you want to be able to recharge the battery.
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No, they aren't. I can hurt not to get an ohm meter. If you're rebuilding coils, for safety's sake, a dedicated ohm meter should be the very first thing on your shopping list even before you buy anything or do anything with wire!
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No. They are most certainly NOT. Like Joe said above, there are several different direct drip atomizers out there that will not break the bank and they're not rebuildable. There are bridged and bridgeless atomizers in 510, 901, 306 (I don't think I left any out but I might have...). At the Vapor Talk store you can get a basic but good quality 510 atomizer that is fairly inexpensive to try. If you're getting an atomizer I would strongly suggest getting a drip shield from Empire Mods to cover it. Make sure it says "EGO" in the name so that it will cover the eGo threads on your Twist and/or Spinner. Atomizers tend to have a natural leak (air holes) in the connection end and you'll find juice running down your fingers and battery. Not fun. Just regular direct dripping has a learning curve. An HH.357 is my atomizer of choice but it has a learning curve even for experienced drippers. I always recommend a regular atomizer to start. Plus, the HH.357 is around $22 and $24 for the custom made while the 510 atomizer can be anywhere from $3.50 - $9 or so. As for mods, I've put my RDAs aside and use them with my KPT 2/3, Anyvape Davide and Aerotank. Listen to Earthling, he gives good advice in his post above.
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The first thing I'd tell you to try is to put in a new coil. Sometimes, the coil is bad even right out of the box, and will leak all over the place. It could also be that you might've gotten some knock off coils and not genuine Kanger Evod dual coils. Those two things are usually the main culprits. I've never heard of 8 ohm stock coils. Do you mean 1.8 ohms?
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Tastes Great in the Store - But not at Home
Tam replied to CloudMaker's topic in General eLiquid Discussion
Is what you were talking about the KP long barrel? -
First, it helps if you'll let us know what exactly it is that you're using. What's the type of tank? What kind of battery do you have? What ohm coil is in your tank? This type of information is needed so we know what it is that we're dealing with.
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The Copper Penny is a gorgeous mod. Saw one as a door prize at a Vape Meet recently. Hate to admit it but I think I drooled a little bit.
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Moving thread in 3...2...1 Welcome to Vapor Talk!
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You're truly awesome when you swing the ban hammer, Jeff.
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My great idea: Working Brain Boost Juice or Smart Juice :)
Tam replied to fliquids's topic in New Vapers Forum
Go ahead and ask. I'll hold Jeff off for you. -
I'd say your next step is to do more research into all that you need to know before coil building. There's a lot to learn. The first item on your shopping list should be an ohm meter.
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The nic content can make a difference in harshness but you'll want to keep a higher nic level until you're off the analogs for some time. It will help cut the cravings and will help with the withdrawals from the myriad of other carcinogens and other noxious things in regular cigarettes. If it were me I'd check the PG/VG ratio and the resistance of the coil first. Nic level would be the last thing I'd touch -- for now. Innokin iTaste has several different types of VV and VV/VW selections. Only you will know what works best for your situation. The only reason why I suggested going with a VV battery to start is so you can have a dependable battery that's relatively simple to start. Like you're finding out with trying to dial in the tank and juice and such -- do you really want to mess with even more stuff on your battery while you're still learning? For me, that would be the one more additional part of a learning curve I'd prefer to let wait until later when I'm more confident in what I'm currently using. That's just my two cents. YMMV.
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Thanks for passing that along. I'll give it a try next charge.