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Total New to this...HELP


jameshall080795

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Hi all, I've got the kangertech Subox Mini and just started vaping, currently have my box in pieces. Kanthal, screws and drill bits everywhere over the kitchen table.

I'm using 27 Gauge kanthal and trying to get to 0.3-0.4ohm for that big cloud and big flavour. I've doubled the wire and twisted it up using a drill and then done wraps on my 2mm drill bit and was dry firing and compressing the coil and was reading 0.3ohm. Happy days. Then I put the wick in and try to vape and I get either 0.3- 1.0 ohm variation. What have I done wrong/can anyone help?!? 03afc24e6a06c0d1542d17fb94f7cdcc.jpg

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If its a loose post can I tighten it? I've put everything away until morning. And is it possible to over tighten the screw and crush/snap the wire? Would you guys have any recommendations as to how many wraps, what size, or whether using a micro coil build would be less effective than another type?

Also is the correlation between heat of Vape with the ohms or the Watts?

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Yes, you can tighten posts and/or screws if they are loose.

Yes, it is possible to over-tighten and squeeze the wire out from under the screw-head, or even crush it to the point it snaps the wire.

Recommendations?  Well, that is personal preference, really... I don't like anything below 0.8 Ohms (too hot for me), but that is part of the fun of trying something new to see what you like best.

Yes, there is a correlation between resistance and heat and Power (Watts).  Low resistance heats faster, high resistance heats slower (and cools slower, too).  Low resistance usually will be associated with higher power (fast heat, small surface area, fast cool-down), but this is not always the case.  Higher resistance means more surface-area, and less power is required to provide heat over the larger area, and the larger area retains heat longer.  Because of this, overpowering a high resistance coil usually means very hot vape, burnt wicks, and a hot RTA/RDA... if using an RTA, the juice in the tank will "cook" and ruin the flavor over time of repeated heating.

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What he said ^^^^^^^^^

:D

If i remember correctly the screw that tightens the insulated post is under the deck but be carefull, as I recall you risk losing the airflow bearing when you take it apart.  Im pretty sure it was that way on the subtank.

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What he said ^^^^^^^^^

:D

If i remember correctly the screw that tightens the insulated post is under the deck but be carefull, as I recall you risk losing the airflow bearing when you take it apart.  Im pretty sure it was that way on the subtank.

One of the top screws tightens the insulated post on the mini   And that damm ball bearing got me a few times lol

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Wait....!  

 

I just remembered.

 

Its the center post underneath the deck. It threads in to the foot of the insulated post from underneath.  You need a needle or something similar to push thru the air holes in the center post underneath. It is hollow and acts as the airway from the deck but threads in to the post footing from below.

Edited by Bebop
removed misleading info
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You're right. It is on top. On the foot of the insulated post, right? 

Wait....!  

 

I just remembered.

 

Its the center post underneath the deck. It threads in to the foot of the insulated post from underneath.  You need a needle or something similar to push thru the air holes in the center post underneath. It is hollow and acts as the airway from the deck but threads in to the post footing from below.

Yikes Im really lost now lol

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Lol....yeah if it comes apart more than this, it's broken. Haha....

 

So just to clarify - you dont have to disassemble the airflow base.

 

You just have to tighten the bottom center pin under the rba deck.  The center pin IS the male thread thaat holds the insulated post to the deck.

 

That's the truth and I'm stickin to it :icecream:

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Lol....yeah if it comes apart more than this, it's broken. Haha....

 

So just to clarify - you dont have to disassemble the airflow base.

 

You just have to tighten the bottom center pin under the rba deck.  The center pin IS the male thread thaat holds the insulated post to the deck.

 

That's the truth and I'm stickin to it :icecream:

LOL My bad :o:o

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