smacksy

That's sort of what I was trying to explain.  In your instance the wattage is affecting the "cooler" vs. "warmer" vape because you aren't using enough power to even get to the 600 degrees you are setting the temp at.  In other words, if you want a cooler vape in TC mode you should be dialing back the temperature, not the watts.  If you want a warmer vape, then bump up the temperature, not the watts.  Essentially the higher the watts, the faster your coil will hit your desired temperature.  Once it hits that temperature the chip in the mod will (theoretically) dial back the wattage automatically to maintain the temperature.  Once you set your wattage you shouldn't have to touch it unless it hits the temperature too fast or not fast enough for your personal liking.  Ramping the wattage up or down versus the temperature to achieve the cooler or warmer vape completely defeats the purpose of temp control.
 
This is true, but for a basic understanding of the correlation between the power setting and the desired temperature the different materials available play a very small role.  The overall performance of those materials at various temperatures is another story altogether, though.

You're absolutely right, it's not an easy task and why I don't even mess with TC...all I want is to vape,
get my nic hit without the added hassels of using TC..The end does not justify the means, least for me anyway

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I didn't even know they made .5 ohm kanthal coils for the crown.  Even Uwell's site says all of their .5 ohm Crown coils (v1 and v2) are SS316L.  For what it's worth, though, you aren't likely going to notice kanthal coils sucking less juice than TC coils.  If anything, because of the stability of temperature control you are going to go through less juice with the SS coils.
@smacksy is absolutely correct.  SS can be vaped in both power and TC.  It's the single biggest reason I am slowly (but surely) converting all of my coils to to stainless (both DIY coils and drop-in coils where available).
Now...if only SMOK would get with it and start making drop in SS coils for the TFV8 I'd be one happy camper.

You do know you can run the crown stainless coil in power
(watts) mode too, right?

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Yeah, they did change the batt door..other than that it's exactly like the D2 but now 80w..

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The beast looks good on it.
Did they change the battery door on that?  I have an older silver one and don't like the big sliding door.  But it's a good mod.  
Come to think, maybe it's the D2 I have.  I like that they're small and they fit the hand well.

For what it's worth, you can go quite a bit higher with the watts in temp control mode.  For the most part, in TC mode the watts help the coil get to the desired temp.  That is likely why you have a better experience at 40 watts and 580 degrees compared to 25 watts and 600 degrees.  Depending on how long your draws are, it's entirely possible that the coil isn't reaching your dialed in temp preference when set at 25 watts.  In fact, if you are taking hits that are only a couple of seconds in length, you may not actually be hitting the 580 degrees with 40 watts.
I have been working on a TC guide that I hope will be better than most of the other "guides" I have seen on the internet, because none of the guides clearly explains how wattage plays a role in temp control.  The main problem I am having is that I want it to be "generic" in nature, but there are so many TC chips out there it's almost impossible to include enough information for everybody to find it useful.  Heck, even I have 5 TC mods running three different chips and every single one of them operates differently from each other.
 
 

Just picked up this 80w IPVD3 at my local shop (fires down to .15 ohms) for $30 thx to black Friday sales...


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Just picked up this 80w IPVD3 at my local shop (fires down to .15 ohms) for $30 thx to black Friday sales...


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It's the coils that will determine the wattage, not the tank itself.  So you should be safe using whatever Crown 1 coil suits your preference.

I hear ya on the o rings for sure!!!!!!

It must be a clear pic as close as you can, like Smacksy's above if possible.

Posting a pic that is a close up of your base and coil will really help us trouble shoot it. 

Anytime

So apparently we literally just sold that 25 minutes ago in the retail store. (It was the 40w version)  I have no plans to restock Pro Vapes hardware as it doesn't move very quickly but of course we can always order in anything you need

I think if I order one it will be the 60w model directly from Provape.
I still have an account with them from my Provari days as a newbie, Lol
Thx for the replies [emoji106]

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Let me call up and find out. Give me just a moment 

Awesome! I think I located your order (almost missed it today, just stopped by the desk before heading out) Going to add in some Black Label for you

A second on that. I don't know why anybody would call the TFV8 a mouth to lung tank. I currently have 2 TFV8 Cloud Beasts and 2 TFV8 Baby Beasts in rotation. Both are DTL all the way, although if I want MTL it is possible with the Baby Beast, but I have different tanks for that.

As far as TC options on those tanks you would have to go with your own coils on the RBA deck because there are no factory nickel, SS or titanium coils available for them that I have seen. However, as@Christopher mentioned, there are a ton of coil options available for them.

Somewhere on here I have a more detailed write-up on the Cloud Beast and I also did a video review of the Baby Beast. Both are great tanks with great vapor production, the coils last more than just a couple of days (in fact, I have had each coil last 3+ weeks) and, for me, flavor production is awesome. Better on the Baby Beast, but awesome on both.

Lastly, Pancake Man is an 80/20 VG/PG blend.

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The TFV8 is most defiantly a direct lung hit tank

Your coils may be fine... it could be the cotton you're using?  What type/brand of cotton are you using?  And, can you post a picture of your build after you wick it?  That will help a lot!

Halcyon by Lost Vape with a NarDA.
A perfect match for my needs.

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Yeah, the Russian is designed as a MTL or sssllloooowwww direct-lung hit RTA... but the flavor is still amazing from it

Yep, I sure would. Actually, I would probably start at 40-42 watts, but I also know the range where my sweet spot lies at that resistance and I know my equipment.

It's all part of understanding the safe limits of the batteries, Ohm's law, etc. High wattage does not necessarily automatically equate to a hot vape. [emoji4]

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