Earthling789

Congratulations on your engagement! You can find a nice balance between adulting and still having fun. Enjoy your new apartment for the time you have it all to yourself. Even though I love my SO to pieces, there are times when I miss having my own place.   

Congrats!  
Yes, living alone is very expensive, but also can be very enjoyable.  Don't be lured by the cost of fast-food... eating out for one can be cheaper than cooking for one, but cooking is healthier (and fun), and leftovers are a good thing   
Congrats on getting engaged, too!  Once June rolls around you'll find you'll be moving into the best time of your life   Just don't stress over wedding plans or over-extend your budget... you can be married for free or $100K wedding... but the end result is the same... you're still married... so put that into perspective and save some $ for the two of you AFTER the wedding, rather than a big show for family and guests.

Congrats!  
Yes, living alone is very expensive, but also can be very enjoyable.  Don't be lured by the cost of fast-food... eating out for one can be cheaper than cooking for one, but cooking is healthier (and fun), and leftovers are a good thing   
Congrats on getting engaged, too!  Once June rolls around you'll find you'll be moving into the best time of your life   Just don't stress over wedding plans or over-extend your budget... you can be married for free or $100K wedding... but the end result is the same... you're still married... so put that into perspective and save some $ for the two of you AFTER the wedding, rather than a big show for family and guests.

Ahh, yes, we have several where we live in the woods... and they are quite the little thieves too, lol...  I just put out new solar sidewalk / driveway lights and noticed the "heads" started going missing.  The other day I watched one climb down from the tree, run over to the driveway, pull the head from the stake, and run back into the tree with it!  Now there are several of my solar lights about 40' up in the big Hickory tree at the bottom of my yard  
They also clean out my bird-feeders regularly, and are quite vocal when it's empty...  I've not put anything in the feeders since mid-summer, so I think stealing my lights is their way of retaliation?

Ahh, yes, we have several where we live in the woods... and they are quite the little thieves too, lol...  I just put out new solar sidewalk / driveway lights and noticed the "heads" started going missing.  The other day I watched one climb down from the tree, run over to the driveway, pull the head from the stake, and run back into the tree with it!  Now there are several of my solar lights about 40' up in the big Hickory tree at the bottom of my yard  
They also clean out my bird-feeders regularly, and are quite vocal when it's empty...  I've not put anything in the feeders since mid-summer, so I think stealing my lights is their way of retaliation?

I've yet to have an eLeaf / iStick product make it a year... most have died within 6-months or less... usually it is a battery failure (failure to charge, failure to hold a charge, circuitry problems), or outright hardware failure, usually with the buttons.  After my 6th one, I finally learned my lesson and went back to 18650 mods... and won't buy eLeaf products anymore  
Oddly enough... I recently ran into the person I gifted my MVP 2.0 (purchased in April 2014), and she said it is still working (she gave it to her mother)... No, it doesn't last all day like it use to... but it still WORKS!

@Walt is right on the money... reading through this thread, I was about to chime in and say 1ml would not be enough of 48mg strength base, but Walt beat me to it  
It is always good to use a juice calculator, even just for confirmation.
 
1ml of your base diluted with 47ml of any juice mixture would yield 1mg strength...
Quick formula to determine strength...  Base-strength * Base-volume / Total volume = Final strength
adding 1ml base to 60ml of juice would further dilute the base-strength down to less than 1mg (actually 0.787mg)...  48*1/61 = 0.787
adding 2ml base to 60ml (48*2/62 = 1.55mg)...
adding 3ml base to 60ml (48*3/63 = 2.286mg)...
adding 4ml base to 60ml (48*4/64 = 3mg)

This is why you don't carry 18650 batteries loose in your pocket/purse/backpack/etc.   They make little plastic cases, silicone sleeves, and zipper-pouches for a REASON!
LG should tell her "we don't reimburse you for stupidity"...  Perhaps someone should tell her 99-cents for a plastic box would have saved her hundreds of dollars for a new purse (and contents)?

Add it, shake well, and it should be good to go.
If there is not enough room in your 60ml bottle to add 4ml of Nicotine base (without overflowing or topping it off)... you may need to dump the contents of your juice into a glass/beaker/container, then add in the Nicotine base... stir with a flat blade (butter knife works well) for about 5 min (until you see lots of little bubbles in the mix), and then transfer the new mixture into two containers.

Alcohol is frequently found in flavorings, so it is not uncommon to find eliquids that have alcohol listed as an ingredient.  Alcohol doesn't dry out your lungs... it burns-off quickly and doesn't hurt anything.  I frequently soak a coil in Everclear (pure-grain 150-proof) alcohol to get the flavor of a bad juice out of a new-ish coil so I can use another flavor.  If the alcohol hadn't completely dried (evaporated) by the time I use it, it will give the new juice a "flat" flavor for the first few puffs, but hasn't given any ill effects.
PG is Hygroscopic (absorbs/attracts water), and is therefore a humectant (used to keep things moist).  PG will readily absorb moisture in your body (lungs) and gives you a dry mouth/throat feeling.  This is why vapers should drink plenty of WATER to combat PG robbing you of moisture as you exhale.
Alcohol in eliquid (which is usually very small amounts, like 1%) does not cause this problem, compared to the much higher concentrations of PG (ranging from 10-80% of the total volume of the liquid).

Alcohol is frequently found in flavorings, so it is not uncommon to find eliquids that have alcohol listed as an ingredient.  Alcohol doesn't dry out your lungs... it burns-off quickly and doesn't hurt anything.  I frequently soak a coil in Everclear (pure-grain 150-proof) alcohol to get the flavor of a bad juice out of a new-ish coil so I can use another flavor.  If the alcohol hadn't completely dried (evaporated) by the time I use it, it will give the new juice a "flat" flavor for the first few puffs, but hasn't given any ill effects.
PG is Hygroscopic (absorbs/attracts water), and is therefore a humectant (used to keep things moist).  PG will readily absorb moisture in your body (lungs) and gives you a dry mouth/throat feeling.  This is why vapers should drink plenty of WATER to combat PG robbing you of moisture as you exhale.
Alcohol in eliquid (which is usually very small amounts, like 1%) does not cause this problem, compared to the much higher concentrations of PG (ranging from 10-80% of the total volume of the liquid).

Nicotine is usually detectable in a blood test for 1-3 days after the consumption.  However, the length of time that nicotine stays in your system may vary based on how much or how often you consume, the volume you consume, and may also be affected by your age and general health.
In general though... a light vaper (a few ml of <9mg strength) will not show Nicotine in their system after a day or two vaping 0-Nic.  If you are a 10-plus-ml per day vaper of 36mg strength (with poorer health or beyond middle-age)... it may take an additional day or two, possibly a week to work Nicotine out of your system.
A couple of weeks may have been over-kill, but that is one way to guarantee your blood-test was clear of Nicotine  
NOW, Urine tests can detect Nicotine 15-20 days after your last ingestion....  Testing of your hair can easily detect Nicotine consumption 1-3 MONTHS after consumption or passive contact, and in some cases, it can be detected up to a year later (but usually only in those with thick, dark hair, or red-heads).
Most insurance and health exams only test for Nicotine using a blood sample, and trace-amounts are ignored as passive ingestion (second-hand smoke) or someone who eats large quantities of eggplant, broccoli, potatoes, tomatoes, etc.  You can ask your insurance company how they test for each type of "toxin" prior to your physical.  They have to disclose it to you... but don't just ask "how do you test for Nicotine?", you have to ask for their full testing process and a list of all things they are looking for... acceptable ranges, etc.

Throat hit is a product of PG, as well as some flavorings and high % Nicotine, too.  PG is the primary though.
If your mixes are 50/50 PG/VG or higher VG content, get your Nicotine mixed in VG.  If you like thinner juices with more throat-hit... higher PG mixes, then get your Nicotine in PG or 50/50 mix.
If you're mixing a juice that is 20% flavoring, and you use Nicotine mixed in pure PG, then you'll NEVER get your mixture higher than 30/70 PG/VG mix with 10mg Nicotine strength... it just won't be possible because the flavorings and Nicotine are PG based.  If you go higher than 10mg Nicotine strength (using a 100mg/ml PG base), you'll lessen the VG % because you'll use more PG-based Nicotine.  The MAX VG % you'll get (using zero Nicotine) is 80%. 
NOW... here's a kicker... All of the above is assuming you're using 100mg/ml (10%) Nicotine base.  If you're using a weaker base, then you'll require more of the Nicotine base to reach your desired level of Nicotine strength.  For example, 20% flavoring, and using a 6% Nicotine base (60mg/ml) in PG... your max VG % would be 63%.  Make sense?  Using a 36mg/ml stength Nicotine base... your max VG % would be 52.5% (with the final juice being only 10mg strength).
If you're happy with 50/50 mixes, or even 40/60 mixes (max 20mg/ml Nicotine strength, using 10% Nicotine base), then you can use PG-based Nicotine, otherwise, obtain VG based Nicotine.
 
Another thing to consider is the shelf-life... PG has a shelf-life of something like 10 years (although DOW chemicals says only 2 years, but they are in the business of SELLING IT)... VG has a shelf-life of about 5 years.  Nicotine has a shelf-life of 2-years... all of these are non-refrigerated, dark containers.  If you freeze or at least refrigerate your PG/VG/Nicotine, they will last MUCH longer.
10% Nicotine in PG base will have a shelf-life of between 6 and 8 years.  The same in VG will last 3-4 years (again, non-refrigerated).
So, if you want to buy Nicotine in bulk... PG will last longer than VG base, but if you freeze them in air-tight dark-colored containers, which are full to the rim (zero air in the bottle)... they will both last pretty much forever.

Throat hit is a product of PG, as well as some flavorings and high % Nicotine, too.  PG is the primary though.
If your mixes are 50/50 PG/VG or higher VG content, get your Nicotine mixed in VG.  If you like thinner juices with more throat-hit... higher PG mixes, then get your Nicotine in PG or 50/50 mix.
If you're mixing a juice that is 20% flavoring, and you use Nicotine mixed in pure PG, then you'll NEVER get your mixture higher than 30/70 PG/VG mix with 10mg Nicotine strength... it just won't be possible because the flavorings and Nicotine are PG based.  If you go higher than 10mg Nicotine strength (using a 100mg/ml PG base), you'll lessen the VG % because you'll use more PG-based Nicotine.  The MAX VG % you'll get (using zero Nicotine) is 80%. 
NOW... here's a kicker... All of the above is assuming you're using 100mg/ml (10%) Nicotine base.  If you're using a weaker base, then you'll require more of the Nicotine base to reach your desired level of Nicotine strength.  For example, 20% flavoring, and using a 6% Nicotine base (60mg/ml) in PG... your max VG % would be 63%.  Make sense?  Using a 36mg/ml stength Nicotine base... your max VG % would be 52.5% (with the final juice being only 10mg strength).
If you're happy with 50/50 mixes, or even 40/60 mixes (max 20mg/ml Nicotine strength, using 10% Nicotine base), then you can use PG-based Nicotine, otherwise, obtain VG based Nicotine.
 
Another thing to consider is the shelf-life... PG has a shelf-life of something like 10 years (although DOW chemicals says only 2 years, but they are in the business of SELLING IT)... VG has a shelf-life of about 5 years.  Nicotine has a shelf-life of 2-years... all of these are non-refrigerated, dark containers.  If you freeze or at least refrigerate your PG/VG/Nicotine, they will last MUCH longer.
10% Nicotine in PG base will have a shelf-life of between 6 and 8 years.  The same in VG will last 3-4 years (again, non-refrigerated).
So, if you want to buy Nicotine in bulk... PG will last longer than VG base, but if you freeze them in air-tight dark-colored containers, which are full to the rim (zero air in the bottle)... they will both last pretty much forever.

Where I am in KY, we'll see 95-96% eclipse coverage... some of the towns south and west of me are nightmares already.  People are driving down from as far north as Michigan and Ohio into the area for a better view... I have friends within the 100% area near Lake Barkley, and they said there are cars in town from as far away as Oklahoma and Michigan.
I'll be viewing the eclipse from the comfort of my front porch   95-96% is good enough for me, lol

When I vape a 0.8 coil in Wattage-mode, I typically run 15-22W, depending on the juice.
The stamps on the side of the coil are reference points, and not a recommendation for Wattage range.  You have to start low and keep upping the Wattage until you get a slight burnt taste, then back the Wattage down a few tenths or even a whole Watt.  Your juice determines what your setting should be, and if you use a different tank, even if the coil is the same resistance, the setting will likely be different for that tank/coil/juice combo.

Well said, Tam!
Vaping for "competition" or "fun" is one of the main reasons vaping is under-fire from the FDA and the court-of-public-opinion... Vaping is an excellent way to get away from smoking cigarettes (or cigars, pipe, etc.), but if you never actively smoked, you should not even consider vaping.  Vaping is not a "cure" for damaged lung tissue, it is merely a (very) effective alternative smoking cessation device to the inferior offerings by the pharmaceutical companies (patches, gums, inhalers, etc.).

When I vape a 0.8 coil in Wattage-mode, I typically run 15-22W, depending on the juice.
The stamps on the side of the coil are reference points, and not a recommendation for Wattage range.  You have to start low and keep upping the Wattage until you get a slight burnt taste, then back the Wattage down a few tenths or even a whole Watt.  Your juice determines what your setting should be, and if you use a different tank, even if the coil is the same resistance, the setting will likely be different for that tank/coil/juice combo.

Just like when you drive a car, just because your car is capable of going 120 mph doesn't mean you should drive it at 120 mph, you can (and probably should) only be driving it at lower speeds. Even if your mod can go up to 40W doesn't mean you should. I have one that goes up to 80W yet I use it at 7.8W to get the best flavor and vapor production.    

Regulated mods (ones where you set voltage/wattage/temperature) have a really good track record, but there's also that rare one that has a fault, or one that someone has modified or done something stupid with... 
Mechanical mods (where you press a button that makes the battery contact and complete a circuit) have a good track record too... IF THEY ARE USED CORRECTLY, and people aren't being stupid... like trying to fire a 0.05 Ohm coil, or using batteries that cannot handle the Amp demands their coil is pulling.  Explosions were still uncommon even years ago, before battery technology became better!
Like @Tam said, most problems are with cheap Chinese batteries, knock-off batteries, damaged batteries, or where someone pops a battery into their pocket or purse (unprotected) and loose metal manages to make contact between the positive and negative posts, creating a run-away discharge/venting.
There's no reason to panic... your mod is 99.9999% safe if used correctly AND you are using a good, reputable battery of the correct Amperage specification for your coil needs.  Stick with Samsung, LG, Sony, etc. batteries, and make sure they are at least 20A... and you should be fine for all your vaping needs.

Regulated mods (ones where you set voltage/wattage/temperature) have a really good track record, but there's also that rare one that has a fault, or one that someone has modified or done something stupid with... 
Mechanical mods (where you press a button that makes the battery contact and complete a circuit) have a good track record too... IF THEY ARE USED CORRECTLY, and people aren't being stupid... like trying to fire a 0.05 Ohm coil, or using batteries that cannot handle the Amp demands their coil is pulling.  Explosions were still uncommon even years ago, before battery technology became better!
Like @Tam said, most problems are with cheap Chinese batteries, knock-off batteries, damaged batteries, or where someone pops a battery into their pocket or purse (unprotected) and loose metal manages to make contact between the positive and negative posts, creating a run-away discharge/venting.
There's no reason to panic... your mod is 99.9999% safe if used correctly AND you are using a good, reputable battery of the correct Amperage specification for your coil needs.  Stick with Samsung, LG, Sony, etc. batteries, and make sure they are at least 20A... and you should be fine for all your vaping needs.

Regulated mods (ones where you set voltage/wattage/temperature) have a really good track record, but there's also that rare one that has a fault, or one that someone has modified or done something stupid with... 
Mechanical mods (where you press a button that makes the battery contact and complete a circuit) have a good track record too... IF THEY ARE USED CORRECTLY, and people aren't being stupid... like trying to fire a 0.05 Ohm coil, or using batteries that cannot handle the Amp demands their coil is pulling.  Explosions were still uncommon even years ago, before battery technology became better!
Like @Tam said, most problems are with cheap Chinese batteries, knock-off batteries, damaged batteries, or where someone pops a battery into their pocket or purse (unprotected) and loose metal manages to make contact between the positive and negative posts, creating a run-away discharge/venting.
There's no reason to panic... your mod is 99.9999% safe if used correctly AND you are using a good, reputable battery of the correct Amperage specification for your coil needs.  Stick with Samsung, LG, Sony, etc. batteries, and make sure they are at least 20A... and you should be fine for all your vaping needs.

Regulated mods (ones where you set voltage/wattage/temperature) have a really good track record, but there's also that rare one that has a fault, or one that someone has modified or done something stupid with... 
Mechanical mods (where you press a button that makes the battery contact and complete a circuit) have a good track record too... IF THEY ARE USED CORRECTLY, and people aren't being stupid... like trying to fire a 0.05 Ohm coil, or using batteries that cannot handle the Amp demands their coil is pulling.  Explosions were still uncommon even years ago, before battery technology became better!
Like @Tam said, most problems are with cheap Chinese batteries, knock-off batteries, damaged batteries, or where someone pops a battery into their pocket or purse (unprotected) and loose metal manages to make contact between the positive and negative posts, creating a run-away discharge/venting.
There's no reason to panic... your mod is 99.9999% safe if used correctly AND you are using a good, reputable battery of the correct Amperage specification for your coil needs.  Stick with Samsung, LG, Sony, etc. batteries, and make sure they are at least 20A... and you should be fine for all your vaping needs.

Wattage is just the amount of power applied to the coil... Temp control limits the power applied by cutting the power once the desired temp is reached, then re-applying/balancing the power to the coil to maintain the desired temp.
In Temp Control mode, if you have the power set to 200W, and the temp only requires 50W, it will heat up fast (applying 200W), then turns the power off/on rapidly to maintain the temp.  If you have it set at 50W, then the heat-up will be slower, but the controller will not have to pulse the power on/off to maintain the temp.  
Does that make more sense?
In Wattage mode, the power you select (20W, 50W, 200W, etc) will be applied to the coil... and over-powering the coil will cause it to pop at worst, or burn up your coil/cotton at the very least.  This is why I suggested you start low and use trial-and-error to find your sweet-spot.  The same applies to TC mode... start at a low temp and adjust your temp higher and higher until you find the desired level.  If it heats up too quickly, or you see the mod is having to work hard to maintain the temp, back off the Wattage.  If you find raising your temp has no effect, then you may need to apply more wattage in order to reach that temp?
The stamps on the coils are just for reference... like a guideline, and make no difference whether in TC mode or Wattage mode.  Most of those stamped ranges are determined using zero-nic and an unknown PG/VG ratio (or just arbitrarily given, based on the Ohm-rating of the coil), so they will not be definitive ranges for the juice YOU are using.  Like I said, I have one coil that says 30W is the recommended low/minimum, but I find my juice is great at only 18W... 30W would burn it to a crisp!  Another coil I regularly use says 15W-40W as the recommended range, and I've used it at 50W with a high VG juice for fantastic flavor and vapor...

Wattage is just the amount of power applied to the coil... Temp control limits the power applied by cutting the power once the desired temp is reached, then re-applying/balancing the power to the coil to maintain the desired temp.
In Temp Control mode, if you have the power set to 200W, and the temp only requires 50W, it will heat up fast (applying 200W), then turns the power off/on rapidly to maintain the temp.  If you have it set at 50W, then the heat-up will be slower, but the controller will not have to pulse the power on/off to maintain the temp.  
Does that make more sense?
In Wattage mode, the power you select (20W, 50W, 200W, etc) will be applied to the coil... and over-powering the coil will cause it to pop at worst, or burn up your coil/cotton at the very least.  This is why I suggested you start low and use trial-and-error to find your sweet-spot.  The same applies to TC mode... start at a low temp and adjust your temp higher and higher until you find the desired level.  If it heats up too quickly, or you see the mod is having to work hard to maintain the temp, back off the Wattage.  If you find raising your temp has no effect, then you may need to apply more wattage in order to reach that temp?
The stamps on the coils are just for reference... like a guideline, and make no difference whether in TC mode or Wattage mode.  Most of those stamped ranges are determined using zero-nic and an unknown PG/VG ratio (or just arbitrarily given, based on the Ohm-rating of the coil), so they will not be definitive ranges for the juice YOU are using.  Like I said, I have one coil that says 30W is the recommended low/minimum, but I find my juice is great at only 18W... 30W would burn it to a crisp!  Another coil I regularly use says 15W-40W as the recommended range, and I've used it at 50W with a high VG juice for fantastic flavor and vapor...