miatafrank

If you're going to spend $125 on 25 atties that still might not last too long, then I would strongly suggest spending the money once on a nice AV unit. You'll be able to dial in the vaping experience you want, and go back to using regular atties that last longer. Honestly, I would concider LR atties and cartos as a way to get close to a 5v vaping experience without spending the money right away on a new PV. Once you know you like the hit you're getting from LR atties, and are willing to spend a bucket of cash on a bulk buy, then just spend that money once on a PV that does the job.

OMG, you are spot on with the Landru reference.......Spok, he's really creeping me out, give him the neck pinch..........LOL

I use a Joker-AV with an 801 fitting, and I direct drip onto a 302 atomizer. This seems to be the best set up for me. I find that at higher voltages the 302 retains the flavor well, and leaks less. Most of my drives around town are about 20 minutes or less, so about 4 drops before I get in the car, then I start vaping when I get out onto the main roads. I am usually aproaching my destination (or close enough to it) about the time i need to drip again. 510 cartos were always a problem for me as well, but I resently tried some 801 cartos (since my Joker has an 801 fitting) and the results were more favorable. I also use a drip tip on a carto, but you need to remove the tip to fill because the center of the carto is basically a straw which leads directly to the hole at the other end. Hope this helps, and good luck

I've been on the board, just not as much to say lately. As I've said in the past, When I was using the standard 3.7v I thought the 510 was the ultimate. Now that I vape at higher voltages, I prefer the 302 and use it exclusively, and I've never been a big fan of adapters.

I have to wonder why it's only available with a 510 fitting. I love all the features it offers, but if I can't get it with an 801 fitting for use with my 302 atomizers, I'll have to take a pass on this one.

Electronic devices that give the user a shock is usually a faulty ground somewhere in the device, or a missing ground in the AC outlet where it is plugged into. Try plugging the computer into a different AC outlet to verify if it is a missing ground in the outlet, or you could also try a different computer power cable. If it proves to be the computer itself, I would have it repaired or replaced as soon as possible, as this type of problem could aso have negitive effects on the other computer devices connected to it (printers webcams, external drives, etc.)

Todd uses organic flavorings and vegetable glycerin (no propylene glycol unless you ask for it) in his organic e-liquids.

If it never leaves your hand now, how could it get any more?

I get all of my e-liquids from vaperite.com. Todd mixes all his own liquids and has a line of organically flavored and a line of naturally favored e-liquids. They always taste exactly like what they are supposed to taste like and have no odor. I have bought others in the past that have had a chemical after taste and a smell, which is why i only buy from Todd now.

I tried my hand at DIY with some horrible results as well. I found that when I was using loranns flavorings the juice came out tasting good, but anything else came out tasting like a chemical cocktail.

I wouldn't try to hack and slice anything apart when you can get any connector you need from madvapes. www.madvapes.com

A Maglight/flashlight belt case is pretty much what you want.

I'd be most interested to know if it removes the crust bomb that forms around the coil, which you usually don't see unless you remove the bridge.

I find that with the 302 (better airflow than 801) at 5.2v, I don't have to take such a slow long draw to produce tons of vapor. In other words, I can hit it like an analog and it still produces exactly the amout of vapor and flavor I want it to.

The DSE801 pen style is still a 3.7volt device, and at 3.7volts the 801 or 302 atomizers don't perform as well as the 510 atomizer. The 520 you have coming uses a 510 atomizer so your good to go. If you want to buy another PV with better battery life at 3.7volts, then go with the Ego. I use a 302 atomizer (Joye version of an 801) with good results, but I run it at 5.2volts.

Hey, I'm in Washington state, so where the heck is this cabin located.....LOL

Welcome James, I'm sure you can see now that you have gotten many different answers. That's because everyone has done a bit of experimentation, trying different things and settling into what they believe is the ultimate setup. One person says cartomizers, another says LR atomizers, and yet another says XL atomizers. The Ego is a great, well proven unit, and you can't go wrong there. As far as what atomizer/cartomizer to put on it........try everything, experiment, and find what works best for YOU. It's all so personal and individual.

Looks to me like you want to go with a 510 with a PCC (personal charging case) and 510 cartomizers.

I would agree that at 3.7volts the ego is hard to beat. You can spend more for a 3.7v unit that MIGHT be fancier to look at, but it really won't function much better. Once you up the voltage, you can ask a dozen people and get a dozen answers. It's really all so very subjective.

Also, if you look at how a cartomizer is made, there is a kind of a straw/tube going right down the middle of it, right to the hole in the bottom. Dripping would more than likely make a huge mess.

An atomizer is basically a heating element that is originally designed to use a cartridge that is filled with a fiber. The liquid is absorbed into the fiber creating a wick to the heating element. This can be messy to fill ans sometimes leaks, and also has the possibility of tasting fiber. For this reason many people turn to direct dripping, which is dripping the liquid directly on the heating element. Direct dripping can also be a bit messy (not really that bad if you don't drip too many drops), and the cleaner taste is worth it. A "carto" or catomizer is an atomizer heating coil with cartridge filler all rolled into one package. The cartomizer is for the convenience of not having to drip while on the go, it is not as messy and holds more than a cartridge. Think of it as a tiny electric blanket soaked with nic liquid that you draw air and create vapor through.

A big AMEN to you Kitsune. Experiment all the combinations to find what works for you, but I would go one step further. Go through the experiment process again if you change a core element, like changing from 3.7v to 5v vaping.

Congratulations on your new joker. Since I got my Joker-AV it is the ONLY PV I use. I use it all day, every day, on the go or at home. I don't even use my VP/PT anymore.

Any time someone says something is "FREE" it should raise all kinds of red flags. There is no free ride in life, and anyone who says differently is selling snake oil. OK, I know I just stated the obvious, so why are there people who fall for this kind of crap evey day.

Hey Brian, something else I just thought about. Every 801 fitting that Jesso uses in his mods has 2 holes drilled into the the threads for increased airflow. Since you have a VP/PT, I know that you know the holes I'm talking about. I have both the Joker-AV and the Buzz, and I can use the same atomizer with the same batteries and the same voltage set point, and get a different experience from these 2 units. I think these holes are a huge part of the Joker's performance with the 801 fitting, and I think you might be getting a different experience with an adapter than I get with the native 801 fitting with the holes. You are probably right about the batteries though. I've been using a set of ICR123A 3.7v batteries, and the 3.0v batteries must be getting close to the regulator's drop-out voltage rating.