Jump to content

A Video Review For Comp's PBFB!


T-Bone

Recommended Posts

I just noticed you weren't getting the vapor you could be getting out of that setup and comps juice. I get a lot more vapor (and likely flavor) out of my own builds than stock coils. Or.... Maybe I've put my foot in my mouth....are you using comps coils?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe it's the airflow on these minis? Am I hitting it incorrectly? They seem ok to me...

Is it my low-to-middle-of-the-road equipment?


Just set the watts for 15 and don't set the volts. ;) When you set the watts it auto adjusts the volts.

When you set watts and then the volts, it cancels out the watt setting.

As far as I can tell, the buttons on the iStick only allow me to adjust the volts. The wattage moves up or down accordingly on its own.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fire button has several functions. 5 presses will turn the device on or off, 3 presses will swap between watts and volts mode and (of course) a single press will fire the device.

IMG_04111-150x54.jpg

When in watts mode the device will adjust from 2 to 20 watts.

IMG_04121-150x56.jpg

In volts mode it can be adjusted between 3.0 and 5.5volts.

http://timbozero.com/reviews/eleaf-istick/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't want to throw too much at you, but you need to know something about the way the iStick calculates voltage. It uses mean instead of RMS. I don't want to be technical, but the easiest way to understand it is that RMS is the most accurate. Your 11 watts is closer to 15 watts on most all other electronic mods. The numbers really don't mean a whole lot, but if you use 11 watts on an MPV or something similar, it is closer to 6 - 8 watts on the iStick. I have attached a chart that shows how much different they are. I can't take any credit for the chart...I stole it off another site.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is another post I stole and saved to help explain it.

I didn't write it, but it is one of the best explanations I have found.

In that post you already have a table that could enable you to regulate the iStick. But because of the oscilloscope of the great Busardo we all know the maximum continuous voltage of the iStick; 5.76 volts.

So we can build a specific table to regulate the very popular iStick

Screen voltage RMS

(mean) Effective voltage

5.5 5.63

5.4 5.58

5.3 5.53

5.2 5.47

5.1 5.42

5 5.37

4.9 5.31

4.8 5.26

4.7 5.20

4.6 5.15

4.5 5.09

4.4 5.03

4.3 4.98

4.2 4.92

4.1 4.86

4 4.80

3.9 4.74

3.8 4.68

3.7 4.62

3.6 4.55

3.5 4.49

3.4 4.43

3.3 4.36

3.2 4.29

3.1 4.23

3 4.16

How to use this table?

Suppose we want to vape at 10 watts. For example, we screw a 2 ohms atomizer. We select 10 watts. The screen does nothing but show the direct application of Ohm's law, so it’s showed 2 ohm of resistance, 10 watts selected and 4.5 volts delivered.

Now, we go to the table to find the closest value to 4.5 in the RMS column, it is 4.49 and it corresponds to a 3.5 voltage in Screen Voltage (mean) column . Now we reduce the power, watts, until the screen shows 3.5 volts. That's it, we can vape at 10 watts.

In 2 ohms resistance example, screen is showing 6 watts, but actually we are vaping at 10 watts.

The bad news is that the iStick is actually a variable voltage mod 4.16 to 5.5 volts, not 3 to 5.5 volts.

If for some reason we use the variable voltage mode, it is even easier. When selecting screen voltage it will deliver effective volts in RMS column. But the watts in screen are still untrue.
Edited by jasonculp
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines