iQuit
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Posts posted by iQuit
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http://www.tasteyourjuice.com/wordpress/2015/05/14/ipv4-charge-port-update/
Just sharing to those who are considering an IPV 4, who may or may not have done due diligence...yet You will need a 9V DC round charger up to 2A (I tried it with 1A since I have it laying around, and works fine), if you plan on board charging regularly or in emergency. USB is for updates only.
grats on the new mod, Vapor Guy.
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I don't have the temp control coils yet but I noticed with the standard 0.5 & 1.2 coils I have got dry hits that were just terrible, I have got hot juice splatter etc.. I don't get it, even with the RBA coil, not to mention the cotton it came with was just making the juice taste ok, but not extra great.
To me Kanger has had issues in the past and they still do, Kanger is a expensive name, but there quality don't seem to hold up to the price. Personally Joyetech has got them beat, so does innokin with there new sub series tanks.
Idk what everyone else thinks but I know if I am paying 40.00 for a tank I expect everything to be top notch, and the coils for the tank should be top notch as well. Just my opinion
When I first got the subtank, I get dry hits all the time. I vape max VG and learned that 15-20W on stock coils is optimal for me. For RBA, it is mainly a wicking issue. I found the wicks barely touching the deck works best for me. Not much you can do with stock coils but it helps when you run a needle through the wick holes (end-to-end).
On the newer coils, they now have wattage recommendation etched on the coil head based on juice blend ratio
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Bebop is spot on, it could be a combination of factors...
Have you done a blow off yet? Invert the ST mini, put your lips on one of the air holes while covering the other with your finger, and place a paper towel on the drip tip... and then gently blow. That should get rid some of the excess liquid if flooded.
What I noticed with stock coils is that if I get constant flooding/splattering and I have to raise my settings higher and higher, it is time to replace the coil.
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I do get the occasional splattering on occ coils and it usually goes away when I temporarily raise my watts until it stops, then I lower it back down. On Ni buils (stock or RBA), it has yet to happen to me. Only thing I can think off is maybe temp setting? I run mine at 400-410F
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I thought about getting the M80, but I was so indecisive that when I made up my mind about getting a TC mod, I went a different direction.
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I am more interested in the new OCC heads and RBA deck. I think the heads are vertical now, and the juice channel on the deck is oriented like the OCC.
Not sure if it is an improvement but willing to try them.
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I like the IPV4... I've held one in the B&M, and it wasn't a brick, but was darn close
I would love to have one, but I think I'll either wait for them to really drop in price or my preferred choice... hold out for the IPV D2 I agree the mirrored OLED screens are dim in the sunlight, but I've yet to find one that isn't difficult to read in bright light. The black ones are much easier to read, and I think that is why I like my Cloupor minis and IPV-mini V2 so well... I can read them in places other than dark room
I like the IPV D2 also. Compact single cell design and latest yihi TC chip
. It does not look like a 350j by looking at SXM screen and buttons. So maybe variation of it, or some other yet to be released yihi chip? I do not think they will be out anytime soon with p4y still fulfilling IPV4 (330VS), and still to release IPV3-LI(330-VSL).If I were to guess, I think we'll see them early fall or in time for the holiday season, or at least I am hoping. I got my eye on it too. With so many TC mods coming out, prices will be competitive.I like the heft of IPV mini with it's SS frame, from D2 pics it looks like composite plastic (if my eyesight is not deceiving me)? -
Yeah, it is a little large, and it may be an issue for those who are not used to bigger form factor. It is roughly an inch wider than SX mini M class or IPV mini 2. Mirror finish glare issue is mainly on silver color.Not so much on the black model even under the sun. TC function is rock solid but I only had it for 5 days
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Getting back to RDA for a change. Ordered iHyrbid Ology RDA.
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Personally in that range, with a factory coil, with my juice...It would be a Sub Tank mini with the 1.2 ohm coil. (of course I prefer the RBA)
I would also pick ST Mini or Plus if I am looking for RTA with factory coils. The OCC heads are surprisingly very easy to rebuild too. So much easier than rebuilding KPT/AT coil heads
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I had to get whole new gear. I gave away all my vape stuff way back in January thinking I was done with it. Boy, was I wrong. lol I almost picked up stinkies again while traveling. Currently at Omg and between 1-3mg nic when needed.
Still waiting on SX mini M Class, NI200 coils, Ataman V2, and another IPV mini 2
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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oxNM1pUoOn4"frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
This one is not in the news, but it should be.
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I think the sammy 25r might be periwinkle blue?
lol you can which of us guys gets dragged by our significant others when they go on shopping sprees.
@radnat: You could give your set up to your gf and then you can justify an upgrade. That is if you want something different to play with.
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I agree with having back ups for back ups. I thought it was just a ploy to get me to buy stuff, but it is really important.However I think having the right gear from the get go is equally important. I almost quit vaping with Evod clearos, and from what I haveread from those who are trying vaping a 2nd or 3rd time around here and in other forums use clearos.Clearo types are great to get you started, and sometimes it is enough to make the switch permanent without going through lot$ of hardware evolution. For me, I would recommend a Kanger Kbox since someguyinoregon prefers replaceable battery, and gives OP the headrroom to grow into without buying more stuff.For the top, I would have gone for Delta II or subtank mini again for headroom. That leaves enough budget for a pair of quality cells and charger, ohm reader, coils, juice, and a budget clearo/pen for back up.As budget allows for quality back-ups, OP can simply get a second device and topper, go from there.
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Taxes does not bother me either. My vaping budget does not affect my other hobbies when they get taxed. But I do feel for the smaller vape business that will be affected by it.
I don't know what the big deal is with not able to vape in outside areas. At least with vapers that I do know... we don't vape in stadiums or public beaches, or anywhere where analogs are prohibited. Sure it is not the same as analogs, but public do not know that. All they see is what appears to be smoke coming out.
Some stealth vapers are very good at being not noticed, others fail at it miserably, and then there are a few who outright flaunt it where ever.
It is just like I do not walk around with a bottle of Glenfiddich and take a swig at it where it is socially unacceptable.
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I used AT Mega with stock coils on max VG before transitioning to rebuildbles with no problem. The coils just don't last long. I went through one every 4-5 days. It has slightly better airflow than PT3 though. Just sharing my experience for others who may find it useful.
Max VG also works well (for me) in Orchid, Lemo, Subtank, Taifun GT2 with no dry hits
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Congrats on ditching analogs, Adversarious1.
Cali is still one of the best states to live in... despite the severe drought we are having. hahaAR, LA, AL, and I think a couple more states are pushing for higher tobacco taxes. Louisiana at least is transparent and said that they need the extra revenue to overcome their deficit. Other states are using their public health department as a platform before proposing tobacco tax hikes, and sadly that includes smokeless and vape products... if they pass.
Tax revenue are more addicting than nicotine lol
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California has had trouble balancing their budget for several years now. They barrow against future (projected next fiscal year) sales tax.Not sure how much CA is losing from BT MSA year over year, but it probably must be significant.Ecig tax is inevitable. I think states that have real trouble balancing their fiscal budget will push harder and harder for a ban, and then placate the public by"compromising" with a sin tax solution.
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I normally make a batch that is weaker or stronger than normal depending which of my friends ask. Then I give them base/flavorings to tweak it themselves, and where to get them.
Next thing you know, in a few months, you will be swapping recipes and batches. I think there was a month, maybe two where I did not make anything. They keep giving me stuff to try out.
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Thanks Tam I dont have a meter and if I did I have no idea how to meter a coil................ Why would I need to meter a stock coil??.
If it vapes good at sat 12 watts whats the purpose of it needing a 20-30 watt batt
Ohm meters are very simple to use. Just screw in your atomizer, turn it on and it will read your Ohm. VT has one under accessories for reference.
Why would you need one? Coil resistance change the longer you use them. It is good to have one handy.
But for manufactured subtank coils, most likely you change them sooner because they get clogged up way before the coil resistance starts dancing.
At least it is in my experience.
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It is probably better to tell us what you are looking for in a mech mod too (i.e form factor 18350/18650/26650, copper or stainless, telescopic or tube, spring loaded vs magnetic switch, etc). What others find a good or great mod may not be the same criteria as what you have in mind, and it will leave you unhappy with our recommendation.
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Welcome to VT.
Orchid RBA is fantastic. I like them so much, I now have 5 of them and a V4 on the way.
I do not how they compare to the originals, but Tobeco clones work for me.
So far I have been lucky with tanks not breaking when vaping known tank crackers, but one of these days, I know my luck will run out.
I bought stock spare tanks for them just to be prepared. Taifun nano tanks work great too, it gives me an extra ml or so in capacity.
Welcome again, and vape on.
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im calling duracell tonight !!!
lol. they just keep going, and going... and... wait... that's Energizer.
....
p.s. I found 2 more vtc5 in my car that I had baught a while back and completely forgotten... i was really hoping an efest was in that little box in the glove compartment haha
Have you ever stashed your VTC4s in the car too for long periods of time?
If so, storage temps could explain poor performance you are experiencing...
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Efests are great performers and many in-depth reviews of them attest to that. I think the issue is the advertised ratings.
As for cells and chargers, I buy only from reputable authorized dealers. There are many accounts of fake Sony and AW cells, and Nitore chargers out there.
Let's Talk Temp Control
in Temperature Control
Posted · Edited by iQuit
I am also relatively new to TC and very pleased with it. The first few days it was glued to my hand. lol
I am experimenting with different tanks and found that subtank mini is the easiest to build on. Lemo is good too but harder to build without replacing the screws. I searched for cheese head screws locally but not able to find any that small, so I sourced them online. Kayfun V4 is a breeze but resistance change every time I top fill K4 ecause of the juice control.
Dual coil tanks are much harder for me. Not many tanks out there that can accomodate dual spaced 3mm ID Ni builds without touching the chimney, and I am too lazy to experiment with twisted wires... too soft for me to work it.
RDAs are great with TC though. I can vape it bone dry, and switch flavors without re-wicking. Can't wait to get Velocity and Petri RDAs to play with, maybe even try dual coil build with them. It seems their decks are roomy enough for dual. For me, 400-410F at 28J with .12-.16 is my sweet spot. Anything higher and the driptip gets too hot for me.
Anyone else notice slightly longer battery life?