Earthling789
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Posts posted by Earthling789
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I started out with a single eGo-T 950mAh battery and Ce4 clearomizer kit from my local retailer ($20 w/ free e-juice starter). I picked up a second "kit" so I could have an extra battery, tank, case, bottle, and charger. I wasn't fully excited about the disposable clearomizers, so I quickly picked up a pair of bottom-coil "tanks" from Kanger (mini ProTank3's), and then added in two more 1100mAh batteries, so I could always have batteries ready to use. From there it ballooned to an MVP 2.0 kit and larger Kanger tanks (two ProTank2, a ProTank3, and an AeroTank - and was gifted two mini ProTank2's). I stayed with Kanger because I liked the fact that I only had to keep up with two coil types (single or dual).
I bought all of my tanks but one (not counting the ones that came with kits, or the gifts) from eBay, and paid less than half retail prices. The two 1100mAh batteries also came from eBay ($7 shipped for the pair). Just be careful buying from eBay, and make sure you're buying "genuine" items. BTW, my local retailer is/was selling clone batteries and claiming them to be genuine... so be careful even at B&M stores.
If I had to do it again, I would have approached things differently, and my advice to anyone with a budget of $100 would be to pick up a pen-style battery "kit" with two batteries (eGo-style, twists are nice), two disposable Ce4 tanks, case, and charger... (The Kanger EVOD kits are nice too, as well as the Innokin LEO kits).... you'll use those daily and are very portable for work or in the car. From there, I'd add in an MVP 2.0 battery and a package of iClear's replacement coils, or if you prefer another tank brand, buy one or two of those and a 5-pack of coils at a minimum. With a twin-pack eGo-style kit under $25 from most online sources, MVP starter kit for ~$40, and additional tank/coils for $15-30, you're under $100 for enough equipment to keep you vaping for a LONG time!
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A few questions here.
Is the first graph actual physical testing done on the device, or is it a theoretical graph.
Are all of the limitations due to the electronics or battery limitations?
I'd be interested also on the VTR's graphs and actual testing and done with a good high end cell and a scrappy cell to see just how much a cheap battery handicaps the device.
I have a feeling in the next year chipset makers will improve to the point that the device will only be held back by its battery.
I built these as a reference/guide only.
The graph and charts are based on Ohm's Law calculations and the physical limitations of the MVP 2.0's circuitry, which limits Voltage and Power (Watts), presumably to increase the battery's life-span, and to prevent stress damage or catastrophic failure.
From what I understand from all the reading I've been doing, the battery is capable of MORE, but the device's internal circuitry is what limits Voltage/Wattage minimum and maximum to maintain operation within "safe" limits; thus increasing it's effective life and functionality. This makes good sense, because if you look at the Voltage chart, running a 1.2 Ohm coil at 5.0V would produce/require/draw 20.83W of power (and 4.2Amps), which the battery is capable of, but could not be healthy for the battery, coil, or possibly even the safety of the user....
I did not take the time or effort to run extensive metered tests against every Coil Resistance and every Voltage/Power combination. There are several metered analysis on YouTube already (trust them if you will), and the few I've viewed show Voltage/Power readings to be very close to the calculated values, at least for standard-production Coil Resistance they were testing.
Perhaps one day I'll invest in a VTR (and maybe a VAMO) and run physical tests against different batteries... I too would like to see the difference between high-end batteries and cheap-o's... But at this time, I don't own a VTR or any replaceable-battery-MOD.... although, I have high hopes for Christmas
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I've had mine for less than a week, and loving it! I switch back and forth between BCC KPT2 and BDC KAT, and both perform perfectly. Just like Charlie said, you generally have to bump the Wattage up for BDC tanks, but only a notch or two, plus different e-liquids will vape differently and require different settings. I like the rotating drip-top of the iClear30, but I'm not loving the very airy draw... personal choice, I know, but you asked for an opinion
I generated some charts/graph showing the power/voltage settings compared to different coil resistances. You might get some useful info from it... You'll see from the charts how different settings affect Voltage/Power combos... I hope it helps you out.
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MVP 2.0 w/ KPT2 and Aerobase or BDC AeroTank (home)
For portability, I like my eGo-T w/ KPT3minis @1.5 Ohm or KPT2minis @2.0 Ohm
I haven't decided if I prefer the single-coil or dual-coil tanks yet, but I've got plenty of time to decide before I'm out of coils for either one
My all-day vape is my home-blended Cuban cigar with a little vanilla and fruit (or bubblegum) for "sweeteners" to cut the dry hazelnut aftertaste. My treat vapes are grape-bubblegum, wintergreen, apple-pie, or home-blended "Reece's Cup" (chocolate/vanilla/peanut-butter).
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Based on another thread's discussion regarding the Innokin MVP 2.0's Voltage and Wattage limitations, I thought I'd post this up as a separate thread. Hopefully, it will help people out when choosing / selecting which Voltage / Wattage settings will properly function with their choice of Coil Resistance.
This graph shows the Power-curve across the range of Coil Resistance and useable Voltage of the device:
As you can see from the graph, there are some telling limitations of the device... being that (based on Coil selection), there are operational highs/lows or minimum/maximums for Voltage and/or Wattage, regardless of setting selections.
Simply put, regardless of Voltage or Power selection (mode), based on the resistance of the Coil you are using, there are thresholds where the subsequent Voltage or Wattage minimum or maximum cannot be exceeded. Based on excessive selections, the device will default, up or down, to the closest Wattage (if in Voltage-mode) or Voltage (if in Power-mode) within it's operational parameters.
Examples:
- A 1.0 Ohm coil will only fire at 3.30V in Voltage mode, providing 10.89W of power, or 11.0W in Wattage mode, using 3.32V maximum
- A 4.0 Ohm coil will only fire at minimum of 4.90V, up to 5.0V, and can only operate at 6.0W to 6.25W (max)
- A commonly used 1.5 Ohm coil cannot be operated at a Wattage setting below 7.5W, or exceed a Voltage setting above 4.1V
- A 2.4 Ohm coil will operate from 3.8V (@ 6.02W) to a maximum of 5.0V (@ 10.42W) or Wattage selection range from 6W (@ 3.79V) to a maximum of 10 Watts (@ 4.9V)
- A commonly used 2.2 Ohm coil is capable of operation from 3.63V through 4.92V, allowing for any Wattage selection
- Coils ranging from 1.9 Ohms to 2.2 Ohms are capable of operation at any Wattage setting of the device, but NOT all Voltage settings
- No Coil resistance is capable of operating across ALL Voltage settings without exceeding the minimum or maximum Wattage capabilities of the device
Chart legend for charts below:
- RED numbers are outside the physical, operational limitations of the device, regardless of setting parameters higher or lower (example: A 1.0 Ohm coil set at 5.0V cannot physically fire more than 3.32V due to 11W maximum power restriction)
- BLUE shaded areas are within the physical, operational limitations of the device
- GREEN shaded areas are a middle-ground, sweet-spot of the operational parameters (not too high/low, but should not be considered "optimal" settings)
Here is the chart which shows operational Voltage of the device, based on Wattage/Coil selection:
Here is the chart which shows operational Wattage of the device, based on Voltage/Coil selection:
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I have a "generic" 420mAh charger that came with my original kit, and it behaves the same way as yours... solid red, then blinking red/green, then blinking amber/green, then finally moving to solid green once the charge is completed. I thought this was "normal" operation... UNTIL I bought my second kit...
The generic charger only behaves this way ONLY when charging my 950mAh batteries.
When I charge my 950mAh batteries on the charger that came with my larger batteries (also a 420mAh charger, but not generic), they do the exact same blinking-routine, most of the time...but not every time.
The 1100mAh batteries charge like they should on EITHER charger... solid red > solid green (when charge completes).
My only explanation/guess is that the 950mAh batteries are clones and not genuine JoyeTech/Vision batteries?
The 950's work, and don't get warm or hot while charging (although they take forever to charge), but I never charge them "unattended" because I don't want any surprises... I also plan on building a shielded-charging-station for them, just in case any of them have explosive discharge or decide to leak in the future.
What I can say about the 950's, even if they are clones, is that they seem to last as long as they should during use, but charge one up and put it in the rack for a few days and it's charge is constantly dwindling away... completely dead in a week or so. The genuine 1100mAh batteries can sit for a week on the shelf, with negligible loss of charge.
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Everyone seems to be on an Aspire kick lol. For me, if it does not use KPT single coils I do not want it. No way I am doubling my coil expense when in my opinion single coils perform as good if not better.
I have Kanger BCC and BDC tanks, and use both styles (mini's, PT2/3, aero)... at the moment, I'm starting to lean in the direction of BCC because they tend to burn less juice and produce nearly the same vapor/flavor, at least on the juices I'm vaping, but mostly because they are easier on the battery drain! Fortunately, I've got more than a dozen of each coil-type still unopened, so I don't have to decide quite yet
Maybe I'll just learn to build my own and save a ton of money that way? Hey, I'll have plenty of the bases to work with, right?I haven't dropped any cash on Aspire (yet), so don't count me in with "everyone", lol
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They should put a grape-nuts label on there. No one under 70 would touch it.
Funny!
In all seriousness, I've always had issues with cartoonish or childish advertising on adult-specific or "deadly" products... As for the OP's post... I agree there's a lawsuit waiting to happen because I'm sure Quaker Oats (Pepsi is their parent co) is not manufacturing e-liquids (at least not yet)!
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Well, I've not heard anything back from Innokin yet, but I didn't expect to get a rapid response either.
I know several OHM charts have been posted on here in the past, and there are several OHM's Law calculators out there, but I thought it would be interesting to see a chart based solely on the MVP 2.0 capabilities... so I made these while bored at work this morning
They read fairly straight-forward... anything with RED numbers is outside the capability/ratings of the unit. Everything in the BLUE is within the device's capabilities, and those in GREEN are what I deemed to be the Sweet-Spot (3.7V - 4.2V or 7.0W - 9.0W)
The first chart is showing Wattage outputs based on Voltage selection and Coil Resistance being used:
The second chart is showing Voltage outputs based on Wattage selection and Coil Resistance being used:
The last graph shows the Wattage curve based on Voltage selection and Coil Resistance. You can see from the graph, IMO, 1.5/1.6 Ohm coils, up to 2.4 Ohm coils have the greatest range of functionality with the MVP 2.0... and the most versatile coils being 2.0 or 2.1 Ohm coils, which is probably why Innokin supplies 2.1 Ohm rated tanks with the kit?.... but again, just my opinion:
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Welcome to the forum!
Like Bebop said, your set-up is fine for starters, but as you learn more, you'll want to upgrade to higher mAh (longer lasting) batteries or battery MODs, and you'll definitely want to experiment with tanks. What you're using right now is fine, and many people use the disposable Ce4 tanks (which is what you have) and pen-style batteries as a daily-use set-up.
Be aware that any plastic tank will likely crack and leak if you vape citrus or cinnamon flavors. The mini ProTank 2 (BCC - bottom single coil) or mini ProTank 3 (BDC - bottom dual coil) are nearly the same diameter of the battery you're using, utilize Pyrex tanks (no cracks from e-juice, but will break if you drop them), and look (and function) quite well. I use the PT2 and PT3 minis on my eGo-T batteries when I'm out-and-about because they're portable! If you don't want something that "looks" like a "tank", the Kanger EVOD (plastic) has a metal shield over the tank and are replaceable single-coil design. The EVOD2 comes in glass or plastic and is dual-coil... both will work fine on your eGo pen-style batteries.
As for batteries, pressing the eGo-T 5 times turns it on or off, not adjust the voltage. Those that are variable voltage (VV) have a ring at the bottom that twists to adjust voltage. You'll also want to pick up a few spare batteries (at least ONE), as they tend to take several hours to charge and always go dead at the most inopportune moments
I would suggest picking up a couple of the twist models as Bebop listed, or at least a couple of the 1000 or 1100 mAh batteries to rotate out ... you'll be glad you did. There are larger batteries out there, which will last for a day or three between charges, and offer variable voltage and/or wattage, but as a "noob", you'll probably not want to invest in those just yet Flavors... you'll have to experiment, and as your taste-buds improve, you'll find some flavors are likeable again, and some you like are no longer palatable. I still like my cigar flavors, but have been mixing them with Vanilla, black cherry, apple, chocolate, etc. to get different tastes... mostly because I just can't stand "plain fruit", lol. The 24mg you've been using is strong, like a full-flavor analog, but is probably close to the same level of nicotine you're use to... Some flavors/brands may taste better to you in different MG levels, so yeah, you'll have to experiment to find what works for you....
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Incredibly fast shipping... He shipped it out Monday at 7:22pm, and I received the replacement in the mail this morning (Wednesday). I shipped out the defective one Tuesday morning, and it's not even left the state yet....
I opened the package, and the tank and base are perfect... and the function of the AeroBase is really nice, being able to adjust the air-flow really changes the draw, flavor, and vapor more than I expected... Now to play with it!
Even after returning the defective unit, I still saved ~$12 over the local B&M retailer, so I'll not be complaining about the price or having to wait a couple extra days... It's not like I was in desperate need of a tank, lol
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He did a really good test and the graphical view confirms what I expected... the unit will not function lower than 3.3V or higher than 5.0V based on Wattage settings and coil configuration... same thing for Wattage outputs based on Voltage setting and coil configuration, limited to a low of 6W and high of 11W. Despite what we hope for, the manual limitations seem to also be the physical limitations.
I'm still curious to see what Innokin has to say, and will post their response once (if) they email me back.
Thanks for the video posting... I've seen it posted before, but never bothered to click on it
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Congrats on your weight loss... every pound is a milestone!
I don't think vaping is wholly to blame, but as others have said, quitting analogs does improve the way things taste so we enjoy food a bit more, and those of us who smoked because we needed the "hand to mouth" satisfaction, has a tendency to increase snacking as a replacement, although vaping does substitute for a lot of that need, at least it seems to take care of that "need" for me.
I work from home, and gained 10-lb shortly after making that move due to lack of all that walking at work (and availability of the fridge-on-demand), but since starting vaping, I've not noticed any gains... then again, I've only been off the analogs (fully) for a month and a half!
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I have a question. I have a MVP 2.0 and was trying to figure out if I use the voltage settings does the MVP stop at 11 watts or will it go above that? Like say, 5 volts setting and a 1.43 ohm coil figures out to roughly 17.48 watts. Now will i get 17 watts or will it only go to 11 watts even though ohms law says different? I know, I'm confused too
This is a good question!
I sent an email to Innokin and posed several questions regarding setting and coil combinations which would theoretically exceed the manufacturing specs.... I'll post up the answer once I get a reply.
One thing that did hit me, though, is that my 1.5 Ohm dual coil atomizers are actually 3.0 Ohm (total), so 5V with that coil would produce Wattage within specs (8.3W) @ 1.667 Amps. I do, however see the issue when using a 1.8 Ohm single-coil @ 5V setting. Ohm's Law dictates 13.89W and 2.8A, which exceed the stated specs of the battery.
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Good piece of info to share on "going too tight" on the tanks, and using the beauty ring as a compression point to prevent the tank from moving further up/down. The guy at the shop warned me of the same thing, most likely because he'd experienced the same issue by cranking one on there really tight. I wasn't aware the center pin on the MOD was moveable, but I've already ran into a couple of tanks where the center pin compressed a "fraction" into the tank/coil, and would suddenly only work on ONE battery. A little tweak with my tweezers or finger-nail to pull the contact out just a hair and the tank worked again on other batteries.
I don't think I'll be taking the MOD apart, but who knows, I may get bored one day, lol
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Depending in what juice you like as well, you may want to look into a glass tank.
Plastic tanks can crack w citrus, mint and cinnamon flavors.
+1 on this...
I was experimenting with a little Wintergreen and Cinnamon added to my cigar flavor and cracked a Ce4 on the second fill-up! This is why I moved mainly to Pyrex tanks. I still use the plastic ones, but keep them limited to my sweet flavors... my after-meal treats, lol.
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Yeah, I'm not a fan of reading "broken English" manuals either, but I had to refer to the manual because I was confused why there was an on/off switch at the bottom when you have to press 3x on the power button to activate/deactivate the unit.
The clerk at the shop gave me a good overview/tutorial, but failed to mention the on/off switch on the bottom was ONLY for activating/deactivating the USB discharge port (for charging cell-phone or similar device).
As I read through the manual, I found the info I was asking about on page 3, under "Ohms Meter & Battery Level Indicator & Puff Counter", the first paragraph indicates the display cycles through four readings if you push both buttons together for 2-seconds, as I indicated above.
I assumed there was nothing wrong with the unit's functionality, but just wanted to make absolutely sure it was operating correctly for the displays (before my warranty expired).
Thanks for letting me know all is well!
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I just picked up my MVP 2.0 (Titanium Blue) this morning, and have a question on operation...
I've played with these before, enough to know I wanted one, lol... and the clerk at the B&M I bought it from really took the time to show me all the features (of several MODs) when I was making a decision... BUT, there seems to be a discrepancy between the actual operation and the included manual...
The manual indicates pressing P and U together for 2-seconds cause the display to cycle between these four readouts: Resistance, Voltage, Puff-count, and Watts, in that order. BUT, when I press the two together, I'm only getting the FIRST TWO of the readouts (even if I hold the buttons longer)... resistance and voltage. If I want to see the puff-count or power, I have to press the P button. Pressing the U button shows puff-count and voltage. So, singularly, the buttons are functioning as they should, but pressing both does not cycle through all four displays.
Is this normal operation for the most recent version, or is something wrong?
It appears to be functioning normally... as when I increase Wattage, it is obviously increasing power... at 8.0, I'm getting a burnt taste (I could probably cook bacon on max-power, lol). At 6.5 or 7.0 seems to be the sweet-spot for my 2.2 ohm single-coil, and 7.5 seems to be a good place for my 1.5 ohm dual-coil.
I've also tried four different tank/coil combos, and it is reading the Resistance accurately for each one, but nothing I've done so far is getting the display to cycle through all four of the read-outs
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LOL I do, but he would spend even more by doing that. If for some reason they do not replace it, contact me and I can get you a replacement pin. I have those too.
A very generous offer, Thanks, but the online retailer responded to my email... They are shipping out a new unit today via USPS Priority Mail, and I have 10 days to return the defective unit (or they will charge my CC for the second unit).
Sad this one was defective, but it wasn't the seller's fault... and it's the first product from Kanger I've opened that wasn't 100% perfect....
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I've contacted the online seller... so we'll see what they do. I'll happily return the whole unit for a replacement, but all I need is Aero-base!
This is the one disadvantage of buying online... if there is a problem, you lose your cost-savings over B&M shops in return postage
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Ce series are top-coil, much like the iClear 10/16/30 tanks (510 threaded), and are plastic. If you like that style, eBay and dozens of online retailers will have your best prices for replacement coils and drip-tips. BTW, Ce5's are the same as Ce4's, but with replaceable coil/wick units. Personally, I like the bottom-coil tanks (cooler vapor and you don't have to tip them often to keep wicks loaded), but it is your choice on what works best for you...
Just a personal opinion, here... the Kanger Mini ProTank 2 (single coil) or Mini ProTank 3 (dual coil) both work well with pen-style (eGo) batteries, as they are roughly the same diameter as the battery... I use both the PT2 (using 2.0 ohm coil) the PT3 (using 1.5 ohm coils) on my 1100mAh pen-style, and both work well. I find that the dual-coils, obviously, burn more battery power and a bit more e-juice than the single-coil atomizers. And, I also use the Ce4's (disposables) quite often, so there is nothing wrong with top or bottom-coil units... again, just your personal preference!
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I've found that some juices will dry my throat out pretty bad, and with a little sinus infection it seems worse. In the mornings when my sinuses are acting up (seasonal allergies) I get a little metallic aftertaste when I vape, but it goes away as the morning progresses. Like you, when I was sick and smoking analogs, I rarely slowed down and never stopped, even in the worst of pneumonia or sore throats, mostly because analogs have a nice anesthetic property, and I was completely hooked on them
I think Tam's suggestion of adding a little peppermint might be something I'll try next time I have a cold or sinus issue... seems logical!
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I just received my new Kanger AeroTank in the mail today (and picked up my new MVP 2.0 from the local B&M this morning)
I did an alcohol rinse on the tank and let it dry while I topped off the charge on the battery (surprisingly it was 99% charged)... SO, I popped in a fresh 2.0 ohm coil, topped off the tank and let the wick soak for a couple of minutes, screwed it onto my MVP 2.0.... and... zilch! Huh... checked the battery, yep, it's on... took another hit... still nothing...
I didn't check the coil resistance on the MVP before I tried that first hit, so I hit the P/U buttons and coil resistance is reading NON on the MVP, so I screwed on my ProTank 2 and gave it a try... reads 2.3 ohms and works flawlessly. I tried my ProTank 3 mini and it reads only 0.5 ohm, and did not work, but I'm pretty sure I just needed to adjust the contact pin on it.
I emptied out the Aerotank and fully disassembled it again... huh... it's missing the center pin on the Aero-base which extends the connection from the battery to the coil head, and the little silicone/rubber insulator at the bottom of the base is cocked sideways a little
Sealed package, authentic Kanger product... but someone let this get through Quality Control missing an essential part...
Anyone else ever ran into this? Would it better to contact my online retailer, or deal with Kanger directly?
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I understand what you mean about wanting an analog when you first start vaping... the first week or so is the hardest part. What worked for me is that I bought my last carton and about halfway through it, I bought my eGo-T starter kit... I started vaping when I had only 3 packs left, and managed to stretch those 3 packs over the next week. I forced myself to NOT buy another pack of analogs. A week later, I didn't miss them! As a treat for not smoking analogs, I bought myself another starter kit (cheaper than buying more batteries singly), and two Kanger mini ProTank3's... picked them all up for the price of a carton of my usual analogs
Speaking of tanks, no... you can't have too many, IMO. If you vape a lot of different flavors, or (like me) still experimenting with different flavor/tank/coil/battery combos, you'll really want a tank for each flavor, especially if you're using plastic tanks, because they tend to hold flavors, unlike glass tanks. Once a wick has picked up a flavor, you can get away with a similar flavor in the same tank, but not something "different". Like Tam said, washing, or at least a hot water rinse/soak is a good idea from time to time, as it will get the "gunk" out of them.
I'm still fairly new to this myself, too, and I just counted my tanks... 7 unopened Ce4 tanks, two in use (I'll start looking for a deal on bulk-pack on eBay soon)... four BCC tanks (with 12 spare coils), and six BDC tanks (with 14 spare coils). Personally, I think I could use a couple more, lol... but I'm determined to actually "save" some cash over the summer. So until Labor Day, I've given myself a limitation... only spend $ on e-juices, atomizer coils (or Ce4 tanks), and only 'replace' any of my equipment if it becomes damaged or malfunctions.... No more upgrades for a while!!
After Labor Day, I plan to learn to build my own coils, since I'll have enough atomizer heads to make it worthwhile, and maybe treat myself to a new battery MOD and a couple of nice glass or all-stainless-steel tanks closer to Christmas!It's easy to go nuts on equipment (batteries, tanks, coils, juice, stands, cases, blah, blah), but in the long-run, what you're saving on NOT smoking makes it worthwhile, IMO, and really getting INTO the hobby is another aspect that will keep your mind off analogs... at least it has for me!
Advice on nic juice for mixing
in DIY e Liquid Discussion
Posted
I made the mistake of ordering several 30ml bottles of 12mg juice a couple of weeks ago, when I wanted 18mg, so I re-ordered the same exact juices in 24mg and mixed them 1:1 in empty 60ml bottles, as Compenstine suggested you do... the nic level is now at 18mg, and the flavor did not suffer at all. Bonus points that I now have double my juice at the perfect nic level, so I won't have to re-order for a couple of months!
As Tam indicated, and Compenstine implied, mixing anything with unflavored nic juice would "water-down" the flavor... like pouring 12oz of water and a12oz cola into the same glass...