Earthling789
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Posts posted by Earthling789
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I cracked open a fresh 30ml bottle on Sunday the 18th, and just now emptied it ... 12 days later... that's 2.5ml per day average... or 17.5ml per week... in ONE flavor.
My second flavor still has ~20ml left combined in the bottle and pre-filled tanks, so I've only used ~10ml of it in the past 12 days?
I guess my usage is even less than I thought, now that I've found my favorite flavors!
< 20ml per week equals < $4 in juice costs ... or 1/12 of the cost my weekly analog habit!!
Now, if I can just stop stockpiling tanks and coils
Hey, at least they were all really good prices, and you can never have too many tanks or coils, right? 
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I clean every tank when they are new... just because I'm OCD about ensuring cleanliness
I disassemble what I can, set the parts in HOT (at least 180-deg) water for 3-5 minutes, and soak/rinse them in 91% IPA for a couple of minutes, then I let them air-dry for several hours, at least. I don't clean new coils, nor do I see a benefit for dry-burn when new. But, I have "dry-burned" a coil that was gunked-up from a heavy/sweet juice... it cooked the residue off the coil nicely, and gave me another week of good flavor on that coil. I tried soaking a coil in IPA overnight to get rid of a flavor I tried (and didn't like)... then I boiled it, and let it air-dry... it seems to have worked, but the first tank-full tasted "bland".
I've only been vaping for a couple of months, but I have had to clean a couple of my in-use tanks already... one was washed, soaked in HOT water, and sanitized because I could not get the peanut-butter and caramel flavors out of it any other way... and another because it just started to look "gummy" on the interior of the glass.
I feel that if you are using the same flavor over and over in one tank, the need to "regularly clean" that tank is minimized, but if the glass of the tank starts to show residue, or the juice doesn't flow smoothly across the glass, it's probably time to clean it, IMO.
Now, drip-tips are a different story!
I wash (or HOT-water soak), and give them an IPA bath/rinse after every couple of tank-fulls... just because that's the part that touches my mouth, and I'd prefer that area to be as clean, smooth, and germ-free as possible!
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I tried the e-cig route... hated it...
The batteries don't have much capacity, nor do the cartomizers... the vapor production (and taste) dropped off to nothing, quickly... and the price for disposables was costing me more than actual smoking! The rechargeables were just not cutting it too (prices were outrageous compared to an eGo-style kit), and lack of "flavor" offerings is soooo limited for e-cigs, compared to vaping.
The only advantage to e-cig for me was they were small and don't draw the attention my larger eGo battery and clearomizer do in public places.
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Welcome to the forum, and congrats for dumping the cigarettes (analogs as we refer to them here)!
For suggestions... it would be easier if we knew what you are using now, so we can go from there. There are plenty of ways to go up from the basics, and some just prefer the basics as their go-to equipment....
Ask and we'll be happy to supply some direction and suggestions!
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"Be Prepared"... The Boy Scout Motto!
When I'm "out and about", I always carry a spare eGo battery and coil, and sometimes I'll even bring a spare tank and 10ml of juice, too...
You never know when you'll have failure of equipment, breakage, or bet out longer than you expect.
Obey Murphy's Law
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I've seen mine change up or down 0.1 Ohms on a regular basis, which I'm sure is due to "rounding error" or the general accuracy of the MOD's meter... I usually don't pay much attention to it. I've tested a couple of my coils against a friend's REAL coil-meter, and there was a difference between the two. For accuracy, I would trust a real coil-meter over the MOD's meter any day!
Like BigClouds said, a resistance change doesn't necessarily mean it is going bad, although a large jump higher would lead you to believe failure is close. Carry an extra coil just in case, but it may continue to function just fine for another day... or another week... or even longer.
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It's a tube mod and doesn't look at all like a VTR box mod.
I checked out the link, and the first thing I thought was "this isn't a compact box!"... I like the look of the tank, though... but coils are probably $3 each, lol. And the "knob" for selecting your settings looks exactly like the knob that adjusts tension on the strap-mechanism on my motorcycle's cup-holder
Personally, I think it detracts from the sleek, tube-style look...It's probably a good unit, but hardly the box-style, and definitely not as compact as the VTR!
And yes, I'm still holding out for a Titanium Blue VTR... or at least one in Brushed Black! C'mon Innokin... Start producing the VTR in at least some of the color options from the MVP line-up!
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Battery life is the key... Lower resistance coils require less Voltage to achieve a desired Wattage.
I was using 2.2 Ohm coils with my MVP, and they drain the battery much faster than my 1.8 Ohm coils (using the same wattage setting), and I can tell no real difference in flavor or vapor between the two coils (at the same wattage).
For example: A 1.8 Ohm coil @ 8W requires 3.8V, whereas a 2.2 Ohm coil @ 8W requires 4.2V...
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I have 2 PT2 minis and 2 PT3 minis, and two EVOD's. I tend to lean towards the PT3 minis with my eGo batteries... they just seem to have better flavor, at least to me... But, I keep the others around as back-ups, trying new flavors, or use while my PT3's are being cleaned.
The EVODs are nice tanks, too, and have a metal shield to protect the (plastic) tank, but don't fully-disassemble like the PT2 or 3 minis (which have glass tanks). The EVOD2 is a dual-coil (like the PT3mini), and they have a glass version of the EVOD2, which will allow you to vape juices that would crack a plastic one (cinnamon, citrus, menthol, etc)... so, yeah, there are choices
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If I'm not mistaken, the Volcano Inferno is an eGo-style battery... which means you can use any eGo threaded clearomizer (tank) with it.
Some of the more popular are Kanger's Protank2 mini, protank3 mini, or EVOD series. AnyVape Davide mini are also popular. You can also use most any of the larger-capacity, 510 threaded tanks, but may require a 510-to-eGo adapter?
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Welcome!
The first few days/weeks are the hardest part... congrats for moving to "analog free"!
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Unfortunately, the "gal behind the counter" is not always all-knowing
I've been reading on coil compatibility across brands, and while one or two have "claimed" to have gotten a few of the T3S coils to work in a SMOK tumbler (and other odd combinations)... the general agreement is that the SMOK ARO coils are not compatible with Kanger's single-coil tanks (PT2, EVOD, etc), and the Kanger BCC coils are not compatible with SMOK.
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I don't have any MODs that use 18650 batteries (yet), but I do have a couple of 18650 flashlights. I'll chime-in that the NiteCore charger is top-notch and has circuitry to "read" the battery and optimize the charge. Once it is charged, the unit moves to "trickle/float-mode" to maintain charge and prevent damage/overcharge.
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Battery technology is getting better and better, but every rechargeable device has a life-span. Many Lithium cells today will be capable of charging to 100%+, but only through the first few charging cycles, and dropping linearly to 80% through the first ~500 charging cycles. Capacity continues to drop at this linear rate through each discharge cycle, but are still capable of ~60% through ~1000 cycles, although no manufacturer will guarantee a battery's capacity beyond 500 cycles.
So, you should expect to see little change in your device's performance, even after more than a year of "normal" use, and will probably still be working quite well into year #2. Considering the fact that you won't normally fully deplete the battery on a daily basis, 500 "discharge cycles" could mean anywhere from 1.5 to 3-years of serviceable use?
Also, it is completely safe to charge a battery that is not fully depleted... without fear of "memory effect", but do not store the battery for long periods of time in a discharged state. Doing so can damage the battery's ability to recharge again.
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The eGo-C battery is a static 3.7V, and using a 1.2 ohm coil means you're unit was pulling near 11.5 Watts (and 3.1A) to fire that coil... I don't know the specs/limits of that battery, but I'm guessing 11.5W / 3.1A is well beyond the safety-zone. Actually, my MVP 2.0 VV/VW battery has a cut-off limitation of 11.0W, so to fire a 1.2 Ohm coil on that MOD, I'd be forced to use lower voltage... even if I set the voltage to 5.0V on a 1.2 Ohm coil, the battery would auto-limit Voltage to 3.63V and cap at 11.0W to prevent damage to the battery (and me)!
A 1.5 Ohm coil @ 3.7V is pulling 9.1W and 2.5A (within the capability of the battery)... and the lowest resistance coil I would risk on an eGo battery.... Just my opinion
You're very lucky the eGo-C has over/under protection circuitry... which is why it no longer functions... otherwise, that 1.2 Ohm coil could have caused the battery to pop in your hand, inches from your face!
I agree with everyone else... with factory coils running under a buck each, and if you're going to use a static-output eGo battery... stick with factory coils until you have the equipment and know-how to safely build and TEST your own coils.
Be safe! Get a good "coil meter", know your battery's limitations, and make use of an Ohm's Law Chart!
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What voltage setting are you using, and what is the resistance of your coil? Using a rebuilt coil or factory coil?
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I love my AeroTank... well, actually I love the AeroBase... love it so much that I bought AeroBases for all my KPT2's
I've been looking at the AeroTank Mini's for my eGo batteries (to maintain the slim look/feel), but I think the price is WAY too much. Basically, the only differences I see between the KPT3 Mini and the AeroTank Mini is the AeroBase, additional SS tank option, and obviously $20 extra!
I have scanned around, and I don't believe the bases are available separately (at least not yet)
I have two KPT3 Minis, and only paid $12.99 for my first one, and $8 for my second one... I'm not overly interested in the SS tank because I like to SEE my juice levels, but the "unbreakable" advantage would be a nice thing?
So, for those of you who have them... Comparing the AT mini to the KPT3 mini:
- Is the AT mini worth the extra cost for the air-flow base and SS tank?
- Is the base on the AT mini a "real" advantage?
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I saw a carved Jade (more green than blue) one at my local vape-shop the other day... It was pretty, but also had a "pretty" price-tag too...
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I actually used a metric bit... 8mm... in SAE, that would be equivalent to 5/16".
My first attempt was using a 1/4", but the 510's were too snug (so much for eye-balling the size). My 5/16" bit was missing... of course... So, that is why I selected the 8mm metric. The extra 1/16" gives a little play, without allowing them to slide-around too much.
9/32" might be a "perfect-fit"... although I'm not sure... might have to try that next time. Either way, the 5/16" is easy to hit the hole, and keeps them steady.
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Thanks for the compliments, everyone! I'm always looking for a "simple solution", lol
Jerry, I found a "simple solution" to my tanks too... I used the same hole-saw (without the pilot drill-bit) to cut four more 2" rounds out of that thin, scrap, pine board. I drilled three holes (just slightly larger than the 510 connection, in a centered, triangle pattern) in two of the rounds, then glued them onto one of the "solid" rounds. I did it this way so I would not have to "measure" the depth of each hole, and the solid piece underneath will contain any drips or leakage (protecting my desktop)... yeah, it was the lazy way
Each one holds 3-tanks, keeps them upright, they rest on their bases (not the 510 connection) and unless they get bumped hard, they don't fall over. I may make a few more like this to hold my mini tanks and drip-tips, too. They're small, and sit perfectly on my desk in front of my monitor so I always have a few tanks within easy reach!
I didn't even bother to stain them...
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I've been putting my eGo's upright on my desk, but each time I knock one over, I expected to see a shattered tank... laying them flat was okay, but I just prefer them to be standing straight
Personally, I never liked the little plastic stands they sell at the local vape-shop, and hadn't decided on dropping money for a wooden stand, when I feel I can make one for pennies, and have it fit my needs better anyway... alas, I've not (yet) taken the time to build something big, but I still needed something for my eGo's to reside in on my desk....
So, today I was cleaning some odds-and-ends out of my storage boxes and ran across two of those nice, 2" round closet-door handles that I never used (wife wanted pretty ceramics, instead). The handles are solid pine, and nothing fancy, but gave me a great idea for re-purposing them!
I cut some 2" rounds out of another piece of pine (using a hole-saw)... ran a dowel through the hole in the round, into the hole where you would normally mount the handle with a screw... a little glue, and now, they won't tip over!
I drilled a 9/16" hole for the battery to reside in (perfect fit, BTW)... light sanding, a dab of neutral stain... and now I have two, personalized eGo battery stands!
Cost was nothing, and gave me something to do for 30-minutes this afternoon. What do you think?
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Yeah, if it doesn't have EVOD etched on the outside, it's probably a knock-off... which is why they marketed it as an "MT3"... I'm sure "style" was in the description as well. I've seen a lot of EVOD knock-offs marketed as MT3-style tanks.... nothing wrong with them that would cause me concerns, but not genuine Kanger products.
As for 1.2 or 1.5 ml capacity... 0.3 ml isn't a lot of difference, and the coils would likely wick that much anyway... which I also, sincerely believe they include in the calculation of capacity
16 days and counting...
in New Vapers Forum
Posted
Welcome to the forum.... 16 days is awesome! Congrats!