Richstag

No they are not at all the same.

You don't really need to be able to completely understand Ohm's law but take from it what we need for this.


Voltage squared and then divided by resistance (ohms) will give you the wattage. Divide wattage by voltage and you have amperage draw.

Another worry is causing a short circuit.


When I tested all kind of power generation equipment for our military I performed this testing.

I believe it is important to make the circuit as conductive as possible by having large yet finely machined threading. You want clean and oxidation and corrosion free points of contact. Even stainless will gain a layer of oxidation but it is Clear. Preventing this with something like a non-conductive grease like nyogel 760g is a good idea. Though it is non conductive it will not act as a buffer and being non conductive it will not bridge contacts.

I would say the most important thing is a quality battery, good clean connections and making sure not to cause a short circuit.

I am a rookie to vaporizers but not to working with electrical circuits. I was afraid of this at first because I didn't know much about battery technology. I tested megawatt generators and used open block load banks so I was always very cautious. I realize now that this is nothing to be afraid of, just something to be cautious with and take seriously before jumping in.

Remember a lot of the clones are practically made of pot metal. Also remember brass is not all created equal. You may hear bad about lead in brass but naval brass contains no lead.

These are a few of the things I wish people had told me right off the bat.

Im far from an expert here so take it for what its worth.

Picking up kayfun today.

The thing is with brass and carbon steels is the layer of oxidation will build to the point that it begins to prevent corrosion. Trying to keep these polished is harder than forming a nice patina. If you want to protect it without a curing/hardening coating try renwax. It will actual build as you apply more coats. If the alcohol doesn't brighten it up as much as you want then you need to move to polishing. I used to be a polishing fool but I learned the oils in my skin are too corrosive to make it worth it. Patina vs no patina is an age old debate with advantages in both directions.

I hope no one took me as trying to knock other people's ways. I have brasso too. When I was learning to make knives and restore/refinish knives of all steel types, including brass and nickle silver bolsters and gaurds I just found there are so many varying levels you can produce. Just trying to be of help. Happy memorial day.

The thing is with brass and carbon steels is the layer of oxidation will build to the point that it begins to prevent corrosion. Trying to keep these polished is harder than forming a nice patina. If you want to protect it without a curing/hardening coating try renwax. It will actual build as you apply more coats. If the alcohol doesn't brighten it up as much as you want then you need to move to polishing. I used to be a polishing fool but I learned the oils in my skin are too corrosive to make it worth it. Patina vs no patina is an age old debate with advantages in both directions.

BTW, I am glad to hear its not the norm because I bought quite a few of these now and for that reason I also really hope its not a counterfeit issue.

Thanks for the help in this thread.

Daily by Richstag, on Flickr

Trying a cell pic of the low key daily carry.

Daily by Richstag, on Flickr

Trying a cell pic of the low key daily carry.

It doesn't seem to matter which battery. With a new coil in now I have zero issue. Running tanks empty. No leak.

My guess is they are tearing underneath against something. Ryan has the bad one and I am not ripping apart my good one yet.

Maybe someone can pull this apart and see what it could rub against to tear the inside walls.