Vapor Guy
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Posts posted by Vapor Guy
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Nice looks like they made it good, especially the battery door that was a huge disappointment on the d2
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I wonder why the 4/4s can not be updated to 200 watts. They use the same chip as the 3 LI
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The IPV 3 LI 165 watt upgradable to 200 watts. Looks good, anyone get one yet. I'm wondering if the quality is as good as the 4/4S
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Did not like the IPV d2 my battery cover kept falling off. Big disappointment from the IPV 4. My IPV 4 has been through hell and back, drops throws etc.. And still works like a champ. Looking at the new one they have coming the 3 LI just wonder if the quality will be as good as the 4/4s
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Are yo looking for a tank, or a dripper?
Personally if it is a tank, I think the SubTank mini is a great place to start. If you don't like rebuilding you can always buy coils.
If it is a dripper, I really like th Velocity clone. Super easy to build on and massive airflow.
Don't forget to pick up an ohm meter when you get your building supplies!
Are Ohm meters really needed if you have a box mod that can read the coil build before you fire it up? I've always just used my mod to read the coil build.
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Kanger Subtank Mini running the OCC 0.15 Nickle coil with 80VG juice and loving it on my IPV4 my settings in the Pic
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Hello everyone, iv been.vaping for a couple of weeks now I have a kangertech mod 50w with a arctic horizon tank, now I have a question when I first bought the tank I broke it in at 30w, now 4 days later im at 50w but when I purchased the tank the hits were smooth and I could pull on it for a good 10 seconds or more without even feeling it at a full 50watts, now I can pull it for only about 4 to 5 seconds and hurts everytime, what could cause that.. do I need to get a new coil?
I will tell you exactly what you did, you burned out the coil and now every hit will taste like crap and burn because you are now taking in one part vapor and 3 parts burned up coil. Change your coil, clean your tank real well and try it at 26 watts to start see how that hits then go up slowly to about 36 watts and see. I bet you around 28 or a little higher will taste better. And for the future just because your box can go to 50watts doesn't mean you should. Also your occ coil may be rated for 50 watts max like they say 30-50watts on the coil. Every time I had a coil say that the higher wattage will burn it out, stick with the lower end of the recommend wattage for the coil. Hope this helps
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Picked up a new Kanger Subtank mini today with a pack of there nickel coils, the Occ ones seem decent.
To my surprise with the new ones they are coming with the vertical occ coils, but the big surprise was the RBA, that now has the holes drilled direct from Kanger now, I figured I would share since I seen the video in this thread showing how the older ones can be modded by drilling with a dremal. Guess Kangertech listened. Took a photo to show you guys
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I think you have wire to post connectivity issues first.
that's how I was taught to build with Kanthal, if it's wrong not a huge problem what do you do personally? Do you cut them so they are not going up to the post?
This can be a lot more complicated than what I'm about to explain, but in this particular case with a dual coil build, whether it's kanthal, Ni200 or Ti1, you are giving the electricity two paths to travel through, thus cutting the resistance in half. If you were to make a single coil that contained the same number of wraps of both coils combined (for instance a single 22 wrap coil vs. 2x 11 wrap coils) you would be doubling the distance the electricity needs to travel along a single path and you would see the ohms double.
Analogy of the day: 100 cars traveling on a single lane highway would create create more traffic than those same 100 cars traveling down a two lane highway. More lanes = less resistance.
I'm a nerd and would be happy to explain further if you'd like me to, but I hope this explanation helps.
I understand thank you for that explanation
Did you lock your resistance at room temp beforehand (press "+" and "-" at the same time)? Had to ask in case you have not done so.
Getting a solid contact is key in my experience, and I have wasted a quarter of my Ni spool with trial and error. I can have 2 identical builds (spacing, ohm, diameter, etc) but get different results when I do not have a solid contact.
I found best result when the leads are wrapped around screw before tightening it. Whereas in just trapping one side, it is a hit and miss for me.
Hang in there man and keep at it.yes I did at room temp but when wicked and still not fired I hit it again to be safe and that's when I got the 0.178 ish
The build fires just issues with the resistance jumping that changed now just crap hits no juice flow or crappy flow
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That was the first reading I got before wicking, it's at 0.178
also if I try to do a dual coil the reading drops down to 0.74 why is that? Like I said in not the most experienced with building
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Using a IPV 4 with updated software started running it at 40J at 500 degrees, took it down to 35 no good
set it at 400 degrees no good
Tryed a few settings, the coil is 11 wraps
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So had a nice single coil build going with 28 gauge NI200 it read at 0.123 on my IPV 4 so I decided to wick it and give it a go.
Put it all together and got a reading of 0.047 so I was like what the hell, I took it back apart and got 0.143 reading so I figure something had to be going on. I noticed the chimney was touching the coil so I re adjusted the coil and set it up again.
Got it a reading of 0.178
the first few hits were nice, but then I get a reading of 0.268 on the coil I know with NI200 standard coils when the temp goes up they will read higher.
I was getting a real bad hit tasted terrible, then I got a dry reading so I adjusted the juice control valve a few times, and re soaked the actual cotton on the coil. Read at 0.163 so fired away this time only one good hit and the rest so so, closed the air flow trying to prime the coil. Gave it a few more goes mediocre hits
i decide to give it a monster rip after changing mouth pieces got a worse hit then dry kanthal I was like unreal.
I'm no expert coil builder at all,if fact I'm very inexperienced but the same happened with one of the stock coils it came with, I thought NI200 and temp control was supposed to prevent hits like that.
This was a terrible experience I still feel like I want to vomit, juice flow on this thing sucks. Or maybe I messed up but I tried the juice control wide bot ways made sure the chimney was lined up proper so idk. Bad experience for sure.
The pic was before I juiced it FYI
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Ti does require fewer wraps. I use 24g Ti 1. A .15 ohm coil on a 3mm screwdriver with Ti is only 5 wraps.
where do you purchase it from??
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What gauge is everyone using, I tried with 30 gauge that's just to dang thin to use. 28 gauge seems better but with 16 wraps I was getting a 0.08 reading with it, tried a 25 wrap but that was to big it seemed and kept messing it up trying to install it.
I may try again tomorrow with 20 wraps to see if I can get that 0.10 that I need to use it safely. It was a dual coil build with the 16 wraps.
What gauge is anyone having success with? Was also thinking of maybe switching to TI I hear that takes way less wraps.
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Using my IPV 4 with a sauce code tank and Herakles NI 200 coils.
Any advice on settings mine is running on 45J 5.10 volts and set to 500 degrees F. Is this a ok setting to use?
The he vape experience is good just don't wanna blow up, lots of warnings with these coils lol
any one find a good sweet spot using temp control?
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I am up to about 10 orders with vapeNW. This last one was the worst experience I have had. I ordered the coils on Tuesday. I got a tracking number Wednesday. I tracked it using text service from USPS. Friday I started getting worried. It had never updated. Saturday morning I get a text that it was out for delivery. I guess the post office never scanned it or somthing until it got here. As far as equipment vendors go VapeNW has been the most consistently good vendor that I have dealt with.
I have only had about 3 orders with Vapor DNA and so far they have been great.
good to know, vapeNW had decent prices for the Nickel wire
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Took some time and frustration and going back and fourth. But I must say I have been happy the last month or so with the juices I have been producing. Still making 300ml jars. That cost a lot in the beginning especially when I was making mistakes. Right now though I am happy where everything ended up.
been making some decent max VG juices. Got down the fruity ones as well as some others but not the tobacco ones or the real dark chocolate ones yet
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I really hope you like them!
I really am enjoying the SauceCode. It has been my favorite tank to date.
I have really thought about the Goliath V2. I like that it can be built single coil. I just have not pulled the trigger.
I had to do the V2 one they are just so dang hard to find in stock, when I seen it tonight I jumped on it. I never ordered from vapeNW so I hope I don't have any problems, I already know I won't at vapordna
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I have the 100 watt IPV 4 and I have been compleatly impressed with it. First off it has taken some falls and tumbles and still works like a champ.
Also I like the fact you can update your firmware with this mod. I did and gained a extra 20 watts so essentially it's the same as the 4s.
Been dripping and using it as my daily power horse for my sub ohm tanks. The mod never gets tired and screams for more. Good choice for a buy you will love it.
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Just put the order in tonight for a sauce code tank and some of those NI 200 coils at Vapor DNA
also ordered the new UD Goliath V2 and some NI 200 wire from vapeNW
hope I get it all this coming up week, it's gonna be like Xmas
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I don't have an ipv4. I did do my ipv3 a while back. I found these instructions on another site, but it is the exact same steps as the ones I did on the ipv3.
You need a micro USB cable to connect the IPV4 to your computer.
1. New SXi upgrate package (this is the software that will do the upgrade)
2. ipv4 upgrade software for 120w with Ti wire 100J test (this is the file that contains the firmware)
3. Install the SXi Program
4. Open the SXi Program program
5. Turn off your IPV4, remove the batteries, and plug in the USB cord
6. Click the connection icon
7. Click install driver.
8. Install the driver for the IPV4 (should be the only option)
9. Close out of the driver pop up
10.Click connect
11.Click return (the icon at the top center of the window)
12.Click open file
13.Browse to and open the IPV4 update package
14.Click UpgradeGood Luck!
thanks so much for all the help, it worked perfectly. I love how it's possible to update the firmware on these. Way better then having to buy a whole new mod
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does anyone have a step by step on how to update the firmware on the IPV 4. They came out with the 4s so we should be able to update the IPV 4 with the new firmware and gain 20 watts. Anybody know how or have done it?
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kinda dig the modzilla watermelon wintergreen. Really liked the eVo watermelon but that's low VG. What are some other good ones 70 or 80 VG that you like?
IPV4 QUESTION
in Variable Voltage & Wattage
Posted
IPV 4S has voltage presets but no way to lock the voltage so if you hit the plus or minus key it will change the voltage
The IPV 4 will lock the voltage going up, you have to hit the down key first to adjust up, at least the original one did. don't know if it still does with updates