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Everything posted by Monkeyman

  1. My Evolv DNA30 board was new about 2 months ago (replaced @ 3 months under warranty). About a month ago, I started having an intermittent issue with the ohms symbol not displaying although the correct resistance would display. Rebuilt my Kayfun tonight and now it's reading 0.00 ohms. I wrapped my coil at about 1.3 ohms so I know it's not too low. Has anybody else had an issue with the DNA30 chips? The mod manufacturer warranty is 4 months so this is now out of warranty. I don't feel like paying $80 (plus shipping) for them to replace the board (again). Any suggestions?
  2. I subscribed but you've got about 850 to go. Do you want my shipping address now or should I wait?
  3. Is that a serious question? That's the main reasons most of us started vaping.
  4. I've got a Vapor Shark, 2 MVPs (v1 and v2), Spinner and 2 mechanicals. I don't need any more mods, no matter how "cool" they are. About the only other hardware I'm interested in buying is a Rose.
  5. How far did it drop? I think inconsistancy is the biggest problem. You got great service, mine sucked. I know a few other VS owners who have seriously abused theirs with no issues. I babied mine and it broke. All I know is that it would take more than I can imagine for me to do business with them again. Mines back and working well but if the board goes out again, I'll buy a board and change it myself. The 2 real issues I have are their attitude (they told me it was my fault since I put the battery in backwards even though I told them over and over that I did NOT reverse the battery...no way, no how/they kept telling me that they were doing me a solid by even fixing it...it was under warranty) and the fact that they sent me back a bad battery. I can't think of anything they could do to get me to talk them up (not that they're going to do anything).
  6. I've had purple efests and VTC4s. I didin't see much of a difference between the 2.
  7. How much for a pair of flat top VTC4s?
  8. Get one of those measuring cups you get with cough syrup. Fill it with distilled (or bottled) water. After you remove the old wick, dry burn the coil until it's RED hot. As soon as you take your finger off the fire button, dip the coil (not the entire thing) in the water. After you remove it from the water, dry it off by hitting the fire button. No matter how crappy your coil was, it should now look like new.
  9. I bought a Vapor Shark rDNA (DNA30 chip with a removable 18650) 3 months ago. A couple weeks ago, it up and died, only reading "Too Hot". VS has a 4 month warranty so I sent it back in. They sent it back today, fixed but with a broken battery (same VTC4 that came with it but with a DO NOT USE sticker on it). I called VS and asked them what was up with the battery. They said the board had been fried due to reverse polarity and they fixed it "as a courtesy". They also said that when the battery was allegedly put in backwards, it fried the battery. I told them that I was the only one who ever messed with the battery and that I NEVER put the battery in backwards.....EVER. I'm positive about this. I also told them that they didn't replace the board "as a courtesy" but because IT WAS UNDER WARRANTY. I asked them to send me another battery. They refused so I told them I'd never do business with them again. Just a warning to others. The local B&M vape shop used to be a reseller but they don't even work with VS anymore.
  10. The Vapor Shark is great....when it works. I got my rDNA 3 months ago and it already had to go back for warranty work. Battery tabs broke and the board fried. Never abused, either. Good weight and size and feels sturdier than the Hana.
  11. I wish he'd finally admit there's a little more than e-juice in his vape.
  12. Monkeyman

    Mutation X

    I have the v2 (no idea what the difference is between the v1 and v2). I've run both single and dual coils. I think dual coils work a little better but a single works pretty well, too. Just make sure you close off the non coil side if you're only running a single.
  13. My Vapor Shark rDNA (DNA30 version) died after just 3 months. I sent it in, they allegedly fixed it and it's supposed to be on it's way back. I asked if they could swap out the DNA30 for one of the new 40s but they refused. Not happy with VS ATM. I wonder how difficult it would be to swap the 30 board for a 40 board in the VS since the warranty will only have less than a month left. Who sells the 40 board? I'm not too bad at soldering.
  14. The new Evolv DNA40 SAFELY supports .16 builds.
  15. What Earthling said. I had the same problem with a couple clearomizers on my v1 MVP (but not on my v2 or Vapor Shark which has a spring loaded center pin). Screw it in until is just makes contact with the center pin then give it another 1/8 turn. If it's still loose (and it probably will be), UNscrew the vanity collar until it snugs up the tank. Same principle as tightening 2 non-lock nuts together to keep them from getting loose.
  16. Never had a problem with the bottom air flow screw backing out of my Kayfun. Odd. It's loose enough that I can adjust it with just about anything flat it won't work itself out on its own.
  17. If you clear coat it, make sure you don't get ANY on any of the surfaces that mate like the threads or where the pieces meet. You have to get the conductivity of metal to metal. Even anodizing screws up the conductivity.
  18. If you care about big clouds and less flavor, do what Rip Tripper does and vape 100%VG. You can get more clouds with a higher resistance coil and impress all the cool kids. I'm more about flavor and enjoy a cooler vape so I tend to wrap my coils in the 1.5 ohm range. When I want to play around, I'll wrap the occasional .6-.8 ohm coil.
  19. Monkeyman

    kayfun clone

    I have a KFL+ 1:1 clone from EHPro. No issues, threads are clean, quality is good, less than 1/2 the price of an authentic. Other than my Vapor Shark mod and my future Eden Rose, I'm happy with clones. I think the only authentics I have are my Kanger tanks (regular and Mega).
  20. I've heard (don't quote me) that, with 32ga kanthal, every inch equals .46 ohms. So, if you want a 1.5 ohm coil, you'd need about 3 inches of kanthal. Different size wraps would dictate a different number of wraps. Squeezing the coils together DOES bring down the resistance. I don't preheat my wire so I wrap it as close together as I can, screw it down to the build deck then heat it until you get to the it's-so-bright-I-can't-see stage and, as soon as you let off on the button, squeeze it together with a good set of tweezers. I do this a couple times. As it cools, the coils melt together. I've checked it before and after and I've lost as much as .5 ohms.
  21. I actually prefer a cooler vape just so I don't cough. The hotter the hit, the more it will dry out your throat. A dry throat (or a high nic level) will make you cough. I used to wrap sub ohm coils (in the .5-.8 range). Now, I rarely wrap anything less than 1 ohm. I also added more length to my drip tip. (I have an authentic CherryVape tip plus a longer CV clone. At home, I even stack them.)
  22. I originally started vaping to quit tobacco (I smoked and chewed for 30+ years). I've only been vaping for a few months but I enjoy it. Too early to tell if I'll keep it up or not but I'd say the odds are in favor of continuing to vape.
  23. I'm perfectly happy with my Vapor Shark but thanks for the heads up.
  24. Assuming you're wrapping your own coils, of course you can. Remove the wick and get the coil glowing hot. As soon as you let off on the power, dunk JUST THE COIL in distilled water (or alcohol). It will blow all the "crud" off the coil. Fire it back up to dry the coil, rewick and vape just like the coil was brand new. NOTE: If you use tap water, especially if your tap water has a high mineral/iron content, you'll ruin the coil.
  25. I tried Orango by HJuice. Horrible, perfumy taste, even after I let it steep for about a month (retested it every week or so). At 23 bucks/30ml, I was more than disappointed. The best orange I've found is Queenside by Five Pawns (local vape shop is a distributor).
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