jasonculp
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Posts posted by jasonculp
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14 hours ago, Devv said:
Just picked up an IPV3 LI. The device has the option to update the firmware to allow it to reach up to 200W and support of Titanium/Nickel coils. I'm going nowhere near 200W and am thinking of just leaving the device as is.
Not using the device in temp control mode either. Other than that, does anyone know if there are any other advantages to update the firmware?Like @Compenstine said if you're not going to use it, there is not much use in updating. On the other hand, the update has been out 6/18/15 and there have been no reports of it causing problems, and you might decide to use the features. The Titanium support would be the thing that would be a necessity for me.
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20 hours ago, winky said:
Howdy,all. I am 3 months a non-smoker after a 42 year 2 pack habit and it is great. i have immersed myself into the vape world, having moved up to sub-ohm, but not yet coil building or DIY juice. Just an old rodeo boy finding his way!
Welcome to VaporTalk!
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3 hours ago, Tam said:
I second Fadora Vapor. Our very own Compenstine is the owner and mix master. If you contact him, he will work with you to get your juice exactly right for you.
I will jump on this band wagon! I vape 99% Frutti-Tutti, and 1% home-made. @Compenstine makes a good product, and also will help you with DIY if you are so inclined.
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9 hours ago, Earthling789 said:
I'm a big fan of IPV and Sigelei.... But, if you have the Wismec RX200, and you're looking at other 75W MODs, you may also consider the Wismec Presa 75W TC unit. It's a single 18650 MOD, small form-factor, and performs great! And, BTW, it is very inexpensive as compared to the Sigelei or IPV you mentioned
I like the IPV line also, but have not had as good of luck with the Sigelei since they got away from the YiHi boards. The Presa 75W is probably my favorite mod with a detachable tank at this moment. I use my NEBOX (which I don't recommend) as a daily driver, but the Presa and Crown is always nearby.
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3 hours ago, Compenstine said:
He just got the results of his ASVAB and pulled a 75% overall! Whoooot! He is planning on going in the Navy so he just got his ticket to go where he wants to.
Congrats! The ASVAB was the one test in school that I aced. I had recruiters from every branch chasing me....but I had my future planned out. I was going to be a Crop Duster, just like Dad.... Wish I had listened to the recruiters....lol
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1 hour ago, Liqwid said:
Hi I just bought a Triton 2 tank that came with 0.5 ohm Clapton coil. I dont like how hot it must be to vape on it. Is there a regular 0.5 coil that I can get for it? I hope I havent wasted my money. Im just nervouse that 4.2 volts is high for my battery 20 amp samsung in a kanger mini sub..
Are you using a Kangar Sub Box mini? With a Samsung 25R? This is what I am gathering from your post.
Short Answer, you are perfectly safe with a .5 ohm coil up to 50 watts max.
Long Answer:
You are only able to adjust the Wattage on this device. It has a DC/DC converter that uses Ohm's law to provide power to the coil. With the .5 ohm Clapton coil at 50 watts the device is applying 5 volts to the coil. It is only pulling 16 amps from the coil when your battery is at it's lowest. (it is only pulling 13 amps with a full charge)
With a Variable Voltage mod you can't apply Ohm's law in the same way we would on a mechanical mod. The only thing that matters to your device is the amount of watts you are asking it to supply. The correct formula is: 50watts / 3.5V (low voltage cut off) * 1.1 to add 10% for the efficiency of the board.
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Just now, hicksvilleshick said:
Crap, sorry I didn't mean to start a whole new thread if this was already a topic.
I do have the RBA with it (the full tfv4 kit is what came with the rx200) I haven't used it yet tho. Are you saying that you can buy pre-made coils for the rba? I haven't gotten into building coils yet, and right now I don't really have the time to invest in doing so, but I do have a fair bit of cotton I got for the RDA I just retired, so if I can just use the RBA and keep the coil clean, and just re-wick it I may have to go that route.
No it was just a discussion in another tread, not a topic.
I am sure you can, but I wrap my own. It is super simple, and cheap. I was just throwing it in, because I have only had about 3 coils (the ones that came with the TFV4's and have never bought any more. I just use the clapton RBA (the one with 4 screws)
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9 minutes ago, hicksvilleshick said:
I was wondering if anyone else was having the same experience?
We had this discussion in another thread, and yes. I can't remember who all was commenting on it, but, it seems to be pretty universal. I only use the Crown coils now, and the first 5 pack was fine, but have been told the newer ones are not as good. I am using the RBA most of the time in all of my tanks. In fact the TFV4 is great with it's RBAs. I think there are 3 availible, the Single (Clapton), Dual and Triple (Clapton). I am using mainly Titanium as of now, and want to try some SS but still haven't bought any yet.
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8 minutes ago, hicksvilleshick said:
Isn't the mAh ratings indicative of the charge life?
Yes. The higher the number the longer they should last.
4 minutes ago, hicksvilleshick said:Should I expect less battery life with the suggested batteries?
I really don't know. I am not sure if either specification on the battery is correct. It is actually a 20A battery, it could have 3000mah, but there is no way to tell.
10 minutes ago, hicksvilleshick said:Also, about how long should I expect batteries to work? Do they last a year? 2 years? About how frequently should I expect to totally replace batteries?
It really depends on how they are treated. I have some that are approaching a year old that seem to be as good as the day I got them. I also have a few that were not holding charge within a few months. Here is a chart on the -25R on the cycles it will handle.
Here are 2 good articles from BatteryBros (where I snagged the chart):
When to recycle 18650 batteries, and how to start a collection center in your vape shop.
Green Samsung 18650 25R5 vs. Blue 25R2
From this information, I gather that around 250 cycles is where they start loosing capacity. A cycle is from 4.2 (full charge) to 2.8 or 2.5. Since most electronic mods cut off at 3.5 - 3.2 a recharge is a bit less than a cycle. It also is much better not to let them get that low. Temperature is also a big factor is battery life.
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21 minutes ago, hicksvilleshick said:
When I got my rx200 the 3.0 update was just released, and what I've found is that the stock nickel mode doesn't work well with the triforce ni200 coils. Just the other day I finally found a post somewhere that suggested adjusting the tcr to the 600 range and it's actually working now. Although if I turn the temp up or wattage up it still kicks dry hits. But so long as I keep them down, it hits fine.
Right now I'm running 60watts at 470-490 degrees and that seems to be the sweet spot.
To contrast that I can't run TC on my fuchai, because I can't change the TCR. The stock preset just doesn't seem to work. I'm not sure if it's because the triforce's ni200 coil is so huge or what.
I have never used Ni200 mode on my RX200. I do use a custom TCR for my SS Crown and Ti01 RBA coils though. 470-490 is right on the edge of burning the cotton. I run mine in the same range, so when it runs dry, it still trys to maintain that temp, which is hot enough to burn cotton. The 425 range is much better to prevent dry hits, but I find it a bit too cool. I have no experience with the Fuchai.
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33 minutes ago, hicksvilleshick said:
Ok I started to panic a bit. When I was getting batteries I've always tried to make sure I got the higher amperage batteries to make sure I had plenty of headroom. I baby my devices, they don't get put in my pocket, they have padded places to ride at work, the worst they get is put in the netted pocket on the side of my padded lunch bag walking into work.
You will probably be fine. I am not a big Imren fan due to the exageration on thier wrappers here are links to the most recent tests:
Imren Orange 30A 2100mAh 18650
Imren Purple 40A 2500mAh 18650
Imren Yellow 40A 2000mAh 18650
Imren Purple 40A 3000mAh 18650
As long as you are using them in the range that @Mooch lists in his tests, you will be fine.
As for places to get them, these are my favorites:
- If you are running 60W or less per battery:
18650 Samsung 3000mAh INR18650-30Q High Discharge Flat Top $6.00back orderedSamsung INR18650-30Q Battery 15A 3000mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount, Genuine and Tested $6.75
LG HG2 18650 Battery Genuine & Tested - 20A 3000mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $6.95
18650 Samsung INR18650-25R R5 2500mAh (GREEN) High Discharge FLAT Top $5.00
Samsung INR18650-25R Battery Genuine & Tested - 20A 2500mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $5.15
- If you are running up to 70W per battery:
18650 Sony US18650VTC4 2100mAh High Discharge Flat Top $6.00
Sony 18650 VTC4 Battery Genuine & Tested - 30A 2100mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $6.99
18650 LG 18650HD2 2000mAh High Discharge Flat Top $5.00
- If you plan on running up to 100 watts:
LG HB2 18650 Battery Genuine & Tested - 30A continuous 1500mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $4.59
18650 LG 18650HB2 1500mAh High Discharge Flat Top $4.99
LG HB6 18650 Battery Genuine & Tested - 30A continuous 1500mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $4.99
Please note that as you go up in Amp capacity you loose capacity. So a 20A battery will generally last longer than a 30A battery.
There are other good places to buy batteries such as:
If you choose the Sony I would only buy them from the places listed above. They are highly counterfeited. Many unsuspecting Vape Shops and Online Stores sell them as genuine.
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46 minutes ago, Vic said:
I was just in my local vape shop and a guy com in with one of those and said it leaked his tank empty but he carried it in his pocket. Could have broke it from that. I left right after he came in so I didnt hear the whole story.
It is a design flaw. If you build the RBA correctly it will not leak, but with the factory coil, if the vacuum gets too low in the tank, by getting too low, It will dump the juice through the coil. I love mine. I hope they come down in price so I can buy a few more. I really hope they come up with a new model that fixes the problems. I will not recommend this mod to people though. It just has too many issues.
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1 hour ago, hicksvilleshick said:
I have 3 dedicated imren batteries that came with the rx200, I've seen favorable reviews of them on the youtube, but I've also been doing some catching up here and seen folks here say that any batteries with amperage on the sleeve is bad.
I say that. I just use it as a rule of thumb. The major manufacturers of batteries that work well in vaping are Samsung, LG, and Sony. They do not put ratings on their cells, but have done exhaustive research on how they preform. In most cases, the batteries from these 3 manufactures are not only better than the re wrapped batteries, they are cheaper.
If you want to know how a battery really performs, here is a good list that is done by an independent electrical engineer: Mooch's Blog
I am not saying that Imren, MXJO, or Efest batteries are bad. I just feel it is much safer to go with a known commodity. A recent case in December Efest released the Purple 35A 3000 mAh which turned out to be a LG MH1, which is a good battery, but it is only 10A, then denied it and went after the testers that proved it. Imren's 30A 3500mah Green battery were actually LG MJ1 and Panasonic NCR18650GA1, both 10A batteries. When you buy a good Samsung 30Q or LG HG2, you know what you are getting, a good 20A battery. In fact Samsung only rates the 30Q at 15A but tests have shown it is actually a 20A battery. The tried and true Samsung 25R's have been proven to be one of the most versatile batteries on the market, not to mention cheapest.
Don't worry about the Ohms of your atomizer, as it has no effect on the battery draw of a variable wattage mod. What you need to be concerned about is the wattage you have the mod set at. My rule of thumb is with a good 20A battery keep it under 60 watts per battery. So your Fuchai should stay at 120 watts or less, and the RX200 under 180 watts.
In the wattage range you are running (55-75watts) you are only pulling a maximum of 12A or so assuming a 90% efficient board. You are probably only pulling less than 8A in the RX200, so you are pretty safe with just about any good 15 - 20 amp INR/IMR battery. Where most of the problem comes in is when your batteries get low and the mod is trying to boost the voltage is causes it to work really hard. This is more of a problem with the 1 and 2 cell mods as they are trying to take 3.7 or 7.4 volts and boost it to make the wattage required at the atomizer. With the RX200 you have 10.5 volts available when it is nearly dead, so it doesn't have to work as hard to supply the requested Wattage.
Another thing we overlook too often is that we sometimes stick the mod in our pocket and the buttons get pushed, or they might malfunction so I like to have plenty of head room with my batteries.
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Just now, Tam said:
So how much does your bag weigh, Jason?
I need to weigh it. It is one of those with wheels and a handle. I am supposed to be a salesman on the road, so I carry everything with me. It has a divider in the middle so I keep a 3 ring binder and about 20 files in it. I also keep cables for hotels, phone chargers, cards, emergency meds, pens, measuring equipment....and on and on. My boss tells me I make the Boy Scouts look unprepared. I am only on the road 2 days a week now, and I have not been able to break the habit.
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1 minute ago, Tam said:
Batteries, especially, weight down a bag fast. Since I like the iStick 50W so well, carrying those as back ups really weighs my purse down. Three of them have tanks and juice and there's one that's just as a back up battery. There are also two Vision Spinners with KPT3 minis on them just as an extra back up too.
I never really thought about it, but I carry 20 18650s with me at all times. 4 in the mods, 4 backups, and 12 in my laptop batteries (2 batteries with 6 18650 cells in each one)
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3 minutes ago, cany said:
Back ups for your backups that backup your backups
So true. I am currently in 4 mod/tank backup mode. I have gotten so absent minded lately, some days it takes all 4 to keep me going. I left one on my desk, one back at the waterjet computer, and one in our delivery truck. That left the 4th backup to get home on...
I am currently carrying 2-Nebox, 1-wismec presa TC with a crown, and an EVIC VTC mini with a TFV4 mini. 60 ml of juice, 2 coils for each mod, and 4 18650's. It is no wonder my laptop bag weighs so much.
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Just now, cany said:
Doesn't pay to cheap out
LOL! It was back when I first started using dual coil RBA's with a lot of airflow. My 24mg 50/50 juice was just too much. I still have it somewhere. I am currently using the Wizard Labs stuff right now when I make juice, and it is pretty good. My work has kept me from making juice or any "hobby" stuff for a while....my life has gone from busy, to OMG.
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17 hours ago, vapez said:
well that innokin does not have TC, so i dont know if i will get it but i am going to use it for watts i think. by the way i know there were multiple coil styles, i just head clapton was one of the better styles. what do you think?
I like the coils in my TFV4 mini, but probably will not buy any more due to how expensive they are. They do have good flavor though.
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16 hours ago, Glock40Cal said:
Hey guys I'm thinking about trying the black note Segato e juice! I hear it's the best tobacco flavored juice there is.. I am new to vaping and coming off of smoking a pack a day Marlboro reds! I have an Innokin Coolfire 4 with 2 Aspire Nautilus tanks. Any input on this juice? Is there anything better in terms of tobacco taste? I want the closest taste to the real cigarette that I can get! Thanks in advance!
I will have to second what @Tam says. I have found very few juices that other people rave about, and I like too. I given away so much e-liquid that I bought on someone's suggestion and didn't like it. Try to find places that have samples. I usually start with the smallest bottle they have and test it.
Just another suggestion. It seemed like when I switched from tobacco flavors to a totally different profile such as fruity flavors is when I really turned the corner with cravings. I know many people use tobacco flavors for years, and enjoy it, but for me it made a huge difference. I loved smoking, I still love the smell of second hand smoke, but I can tell you that the taste is now terrible to me! When I quit I was between 2-1/2 and 3 packs a day.
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7 hours ago, aufin said:
Found out the hard way that this is an important ingredient to getting a good mix. Used "pure" VG from a health food store, but "kosher" wasn't listed on the label. Don't know what the difference is between "pure" and "pure kosher", but it sure makes a difference in taste. Juice mixed with VG from the health food store tasted like ...... well, have no comparison, but it sure tasted nasty. My "pure and kosher" now comes premixed with nic from Wizard Labs.
I have done this too. I wanted to cut some juice a while back and bought some drugstore VG, and PG. It was terrible...
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5 hours ago, myname said:
i want to step up from my previous vape, (one my friend gave me, i dont know what it is) but i would like one that is easy to use and makes good clouds. preferably something in a kit form. i looked at the joyetech evic vtc mini and heard really good things but it looked very confusing to use in the videos i watched. i like simple to use things. i also looked at the coolfire 4 plus and loved that the tank was so easy to use and heard it was a good tank but the mod has no tc, and im really woried about that. i also know that the joyetech handles tc very well, as i heard. also is there any other great kits out there? im not really interested in the kanger topbox. thank you for any answers and help!
I don't own one, but the top box seems to be pretty simple, and affordable. I have been suggesting it to a friend who is looking. I also like the Wismec Presa 75W and the Evic VTC Mini. Both of these mods use the same chipset and are fairly easy to use. Getting into TC adds a bit more complexity as you need special coils, and on some mods you adjust the Temp, and the Watts independently. I really like TC, but I enjoy tweaking it to fit my juice/tanks. Nice thing about a TC mod is it can be ran in power mode, also. This is much simpler, more watts=hotter, less watts = cooler, nothing else to adjust.
The TopBox has an included tank, and it is a good one. The other 2 suggestions normally come by themselves. I really like the SubTank/Top tank Mini for a good intermediate tank. It allows Mouth to Lung, and Straight Lung hits. The Triton V2, the Crown, The Herakles Plus, are all getting good reviews too.
Another thing to think about is batteries and possibly a charger. All 3 of the suggested mods use 18650 batteries. I personally would get at least 2 extra batteries, and possibly a charger. You can charge the battery in the mod itself, but only one battery at a time with an external charger you can charge from 1 - 6 depending on the charger. They are safer, and are better on your batteries. This will allow you to carry 2 spares (in a case) so you can pop out the dead one and pop in a fresh one.
Batteries are another important thing to buy. I do not recommend any brands other than LG, Samsung, and Sony. For the best for the money pick up some Samsung 25R batteries. You should be able to get them for around $5.00 each. If you want to spend a little more and get a little longer vape time go for the Samsung 25R or LG HG2 battery. Please note that any battery that comes with the Amperage written on it from the factory should be avoided. The big manufacturers don't put it on them and the ones that do are re-wrapping batteries made by others, normally with overstated ratings on them. (some resellers add a sticker to 25R's and LG2's that have the Amperage and Mili Amp Hours on it, this is OK)
Here are some good places to buy batteries:
If you find something you like, pop back here and ask questions, someone on here has probably used what you are looking at and can tell you their opinion of the product.
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6 hours ago, Bebop said:
Watts/Volts - they are a product of each other. If you adjust one, you are automatically adjusting the other. You do not set them independently of each other.
Everybody has slightly ddifferent settings they prefer. There is no magic number. It's kind of like driving a car - some people go 25 in a 30 and some people go 35 in a 30. At 15W you're probably doing 40 in a 25.
Try adjusting it to taste and go from there. And remember, if you're doing 40 in a 25 you adjust your budget for tickets.
Like X 10. That is one of the best explanations I have ever read!
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13 hours ago, MRSpivey said:
Thank you for elaborating and pointing him to Steam-Engine!
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Welcome to Vapor Talk, it is good to have another "Vape Geek" on board!
3 hours ago, vapez said:wow thats alot to take in but im pretty sure i got it now yeah i was a bit confused before. thank you all alot i actully know a bit more now haha
Sorry, I can turn a short answer into an essay.
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2 hours ago, Topofdamorning said:
Im new to vaping. I have a Joyetech Evic Vtc Mini with Cubis tank. Im changing from the tron tank to the cubis tank. Im using the cubis 0.5 ohms coil. Do I need to do anything to the settings when i put the cubis tank on? Will it recognize the new tank and coil automatically? Do i use power mode with this coil and stay under 25 watts still? Any help would greatly be appreciated
Welcome to Vapor Talk!
With the VTC mini you need to click the fire button 3 times and select the proper mode. If you want to use Power Mode, use the right button to select POWER. Start quite a bit lower than you think you need and go up until you are happy with the vape, but not tasting anything burnt.
If you are running it in TC mode, start with a cool atomizer, the click the fire button 3 times, use the right button until you get to SS316. While it is flashing click the left button to go to the PWR set it for something around 25watts. Click the left button one more time and then the right one to lock the resistance. Then hit the fire button. Turn the temp up to about 300F or so and try it. If it is too hot turn it down, too cold turn it up. You may have to go back and turn the PWR up if it will not reach the temp, if it is going into temp control too fast, turn the PWR down.
I am sure that is clear as mud, but basically start low and work your way up, then keep asking questions and we will try to help you get it where you need it!
Bump Everytime You Buy Something New
in General Vaping Discussion
Posted
Enjoy! I have a clone, and it is my go to dripper. It is so easy to build on, and it has airflow for days!