ChesapeakeVapor

Don't dry burn the wicks and don't remove the wicks unless you intend to rebuild. If you do intend to rebuild the heads do your research so you know what you are doing before tearing your heads apart.

Take the heads out of the base of the tank and rinse them under some warm water. Then rinse the rest of tank out and blot dry with a paper towel. I like to take the heads and place them inside of a paper towel and blow through the top tube to try and get the paper towel to pull a bit of the water out of the wicks. Once this is done, reinstall the heads into the tank base and you're good to go. It will take a few draws to get the e liquid back into the wicks. Some people like to do a few quick fires to try and burn off the water prior to putting the tank back together and filling it up with juice.

Just to quickly tag onto what Joshua stated, and ohm meter is absolutely necessary when you start building. I used my Sigelei 20w for two days using that to check resistance and once I finally picked up a meter I realized the Sigelei was around .2 ohms lower than the meter. Accuracy and battery safety are two top priorities IMO. Plenty of info out there and a meter won't run you more than $20-$25, and it makes a handy little stand when rebuilding too!

Daily by Richstag, on Flickr

Trying a cell pic of the low key daily carry.

http://blog.casaa.org/2014/04/fda-regulation-of-e-cigarettes-huge.html?m=1

I experimented a bit last night with these and found that in all the heads I have had issue with it is indeed the insulator that shows any damage. I even put in a new coil and chain vaped it to try and pull juice past the wick down past the air flow into the battery connection, not a dry hit or any liquid made it past. I agree that the insulator shouldn't be a liquid seal and that any issue should be with the upper o-ring as that is where the seal is actually made. Really not sure whats going on here guys. The only thing I can think to try is ordering a few of the rubber insulators, rebuilding the coils, and trying that. Other than that, my only recommendation would be that with Kanger heads, less is more. Put them in, and don't pull them out until the coil is bad and then replace them. That way there is not way they can get damaged.

The ones pictured and the ones that both Kevin and I have all have the silicone insulators. That is what I am thinking the main issue is. The silicone is a much softer material and I think thats why they get damaged easily. I can't remember where I read or saw this, but I remember hearing that Kanger switched from rubber to silicone on their heads because people were complaining about being able to taste the rubber. I've pulled one apart before and the silicone does seem pretty soft. I'm glad that others aren't have the same issues because I do really enjoy the Kanger tanks that I have.

This was my first device as well. Great little battery and thus far I have had no issues. I quickly moved on to a little more high test mod in a Sigelei 20w but the iTaste is still in my rotation. My only complain is how little those adjustment buttons are! Oh and as far as price you definitely got a deal Wikid, I paid $50 at one of my local B&M's. However I did find the Sigelei at another B&M for $109 where I have only seen it for $119 online. Either way, hope your feeling better and enjoy that iTaste!

Joshua, Kevin was a little confused about the damaged part. The area that seems to be causing the issue is the insulator, the same thing that you sent the link for a replacement for. They get a little tiny puncture or nick in them and then leak. I will try to figure out a way to post a pic of one of the damaged ones once I get home. Thanks again guys!

Joshua, Kevin was a little confused about the damaged part. The area that seems to be causing the issue is the insulator, the same thing that you sent the link for a replacement for. They get a little tiny puncture or nick in them and then leak. I will try to figure out a way to post a pic of one of the damaged ones once I get home. Thanks again guys!

Good topic here guys! I am relatively new to the vape game and have been enthralled since about a month ago when I got into it. As of right now I have been all VV/VW but I just picked up a Stainless Stingray Clone by Infinite off of ebay for quite a steal. I should have it in a few days and once I give it a try I will post a review. As far as RDAs go I started with a Trident clone and then picked up a Fatty V3 to mess around with single coil builds. I also have a Kayfun 3.1 clone on the way as well as a Quasar clone. So, its safe to say that I am ok with the clones. I just simply cannot afford to get into the real deal stuff until I figure out exactly what I like. My only recommendation on RDA's would be to get one with holes in the posts such as a Patriot like Joshua recommended. They are MUCH easier to start building on as its much easier to thread your leads through the holes rather than wrapping them around the posts like on the Fatty V3. Trident is also not a bad RDA to start on as it has slots at the top of the posts and can make it easier to experiment with different wire gauges, and types such as flat ribbon.

Regarding the mod clones I have done a good bit of research and found that the Nemesis is definitely one of the better ones out there. Many reviews of it stating that it is as good as the real deal. As stated earlier I will post a small review of the Stingray once I get it and give it a good test run.

Also, I cannot stress enough #6 up there that Joshua posted. Definitely research the heck out of battery safety. The Sony 18650 30 amps seem to be what a lot of guys are using and it is a safe battery. However, look into how to do it correctly and safely and what the warning signs are so that you know what you are doing before you get into trouble. The last thing you want to do is damage the device you just spend hard earned cash on, or even worse damage yourself.

Perfect!!! Thanks Joshua!!! I wasn't sure if it was possible to buy those little insulators. I would like to take a run at rebuilding some of these instead of just tossing them and buying new heads. Thanks a ton for the link!

Good topic here guys! I am relatively new to the vape game and have been enthralled since about a month ago when I got into it. As of right now I have been all VV/VW but I just picked up a Stainless Stingray Clone by Infinite off of ebay for quite a steal. I should have it in a few days and once I give it a try I will post a review. As far as RDAs go I started with a Trident clone and then picked up a Fatty V3 to mess around with single coil builds. I also have a Kayfun 3.1 clone on the way as well as a Quasar clone. So, its safe to say that I am ok with the clones. I just simply cannot afford to get into the real deal stuff until I figure out exactly what I like. My only recommendation on RDA's would be to get one with holes in the posts such as a Patriot like Joshua recommended. They are MUCH easier to start building on as its much easier to thread your leads through the holes rather than wrapping them around the posts like on the Fatty V3. Trident is also not a bad RDA to start on as it has slots at the top of the posts and can make it easier to experiment with different wire gauges, and types such as flat ribbon.

Regarding the mod clones I have done a good bit of research and found that the Nemesis is definitely one of the better ones out there. Many reviews of it stating that it is as good as the real deal. As stated earlier I will post a small review of the Stingray once I get it and give it a good test run.

Also, I cannot stress enough #6 up there that Joshua posted. Definitely research the heck out of battery safety. The Sony 18650 30 amps seem to be what a lot of guys are using and it is a safe battery. However, look into how to do it correctly and safely and what the warning signs are so that you know what you are doing before you get into trouble. The last thing you want to do is damage the device you just spend hard earned cash on, or even worse damage yourself.

When you look at the bottom of the head there is an upper white rubber/silicone ring and then the underneath that below the threads there is another rubber "plug" with a metal piece that fits inside of it. The piece that seems to continually get damaged is the rubber/silicone boot that separates the two leads from the coils. This is the piece that I have noticed getting a VERY small cut or nick in it and the heads flood and the juice will seep onto the top of the 510 connection on your battery or in the instance of the AeroTank the air regulation part.