ChesapeakeVapor

I am a huge fan of my Kayfun Lite. It is my favorite device that I have as of right now. I do enjoy the RDA's but for my daily use, Kayfun is the way to go. If you are cloud chasing then there is nothing that will perform like an RDA though. But the overall experience of a Kayfun is a 10/10 in my opinion.

Oh and as far as the Trident goes, any RDA will leak if you over fill it with juice. The cotton can only soak up so much. And with any dripping atomizer you will need juice when you are on the go since they will dry out without 4-8 hits depending on how you're hitting it, what build, and what juice you are vaping. You want to look into RTA's (Rebuildable Tank Atomizers) like the Kayfun and the Diver. I just feel the Kayfun would better suit your needs.

Kev, as we discussed the Genesis tanks are not for you. They aren't mobile and you will end up spilling juice. The Diver is cool, but it is very small which means it will need to be filled often, especially if you are running a low ohm build. The Kayfun is a larger piece but for the way that it works I think this is what you should look into. I have a 2.0 ohm build in here and its plenty of vapor and flavor and one full tank will last me longer than a day, and that even when I am drinking and boating. Look into the Diver, but I am standing by the Kayfun as one of the best all around pieces on the market as of right now. The reviews are all good and my personal review is that it is a 10/10 piece.

Pulled the trigger on a copper Vanilla and a new Kayfun Lite. Running a 2 ohm micro build in the Kayfun and the battery life out of this set up is awesome. Its been going strong all day and its still kickin. I had Kevin post the pic since I still haven't figured out to do it. He can be my "Vape Secretary". This is definitely going to be my go to set up for now. Great mech for a great price, and the Kayfun Lite is well worth the purchase. Better than the Kayfun 3.1 in my opinion, you just have to get used to the air flow being set as it is which for me in a tank is plenty. Next thing I will try is a chimney micro coil build in this. I want to see how the heat affects the flavor and draw.

Vince thats a 2Puffs Flow drip tip. I've looked at them myself and thought about picking one up. How do you like it Bushwick?

Thanks guys, I don't mind the patina and showing a little wear. In my opinion a little wear on it shows how much one enjoys the mech! My main concern was more so the threading being damaged. In this case I suppose it would be more on the user, myself, to pay attention and make sure not to mis-thread the switch and top cap. The one in particular that I am looking at in the Vanilla in copper. I do have a brass Magneto that I will use for my more "rugged" outings, however I haven't been happy with its performance. So I am thinking the copper Vanilla may be just what I am looking for. Thanks for the input!

Hey guys, I am looking into getting a new mech and I would like to get a copper one. However, I know that copper is a softer metal than stainless and brass. I was wondering what your thoughts were on the durability. I would be taking this mod with me on the go and I want something that will hold up. So if copper isn't for me, just let me know! Thanks!

Don't dry burn the wicks and don't remove the wicks unless you intend to rebuild. If you do intend to rebuild the heads do your research so you know what you are doing before tearing your heads apart. Take the heads out of the base of the tank and rinse them under some warm water. Then rinse the rest of tank out and blot dry with a paper towel. I like to take the heads and place them inside of a paper towel and blow through the top tube to try and get the paper towel to pull a bit of the water out of the wicks. Once this is done, reinstall the heads into the tank base and you're good to go. It will take a few draws to get the e liquid back into the wicks. Some people like to do a few quick fires to try and burn off the water prior to putting the tank back together and filling it up with juice.

I was looking into Hades mods as well. But I am still leaning towards the wolf. Hades are out of stock everywhere and for the price it just seems like the wolf is a solid, well made piece. If and when I do get one I will definitely let you know. Thanks for the input!

From what I looked up last night, the King Mod is legit as well as the Loki V2 carto tank. Definitely a nice, expensive, set up. Not sure about carto tanks as I have never used one. But from the reviews I have read about the King mod it is a very nice device. I believe the picture that was posted was a promotional shot used for one of the vendor sites that sells these products. I would be interested to hear what you guys think about the carto tanks versus kangers, RTAs, gennys, etc.

Clouds, I've been looking into getting a Snow Wolf myself. Please let me know what you think of it. From checking it out online it looks pretty legit, just not a lot of reviews out there yet. Let me know your thoughts! Much appreciated and enjoy all the new RDA's!

Thanks for the advice Eagle! I will definitely start out around 1.5-1.8 when I first get it. I can't wait to try it out as I do enjoy my tanks and I enjoy rebuilding, win win! Thanks again!

HAHAHA! Joe, I hear ya! Bring on the 100w 4 channel vapes!!! Thats gonna be like the guy who put juice in a fog machine on youtube! I rebuilt my RDAs last night and they are both barely sub ohm, around .95. I am going to vape them this week and see how I like it. I enjoy the flavor and the clouds are fun, but they definitely eat up a battery. I am doing a little experimenting to find that sweet spot between flavor and battery life. I'd rather not have to carry a spare battery with me, but if thats what it takes then thats what I'll do. So far I am loving my mech. The one thing though is that it doesn't seem to work well with my Aerotank. There is a 2.0 ohm coil in there so I am thinking that is whats going on. Luckily I should have a Kayfun to play with this evening and then we will see where we are with the RTA on a mech!

You can use a small screwdriver to gently lift the pin back up too. I have had this happen on my iTaste. Just go around the sides of the pin very easily and lightly push the pin back up a little. Should connect and fire right up.

I am a muscle car guy, although I do drive a WRX... But in my heart, its all about american muscle, and I am thinking I'm a mech guy at heart too. I just still can't wrap my mind around how much vapor production you get and that its still so smooth. I still enjoy my VW with a tank, but I'm hooked on the mechs for sure.

Thanks Charlie, I lucked out and went by a local tonight and they were able to find one for me that worked. I will definitely look up your recommendations and book mark them though for any further issues. Appreciate the help!

Ok, so I started out with an Innokin iTaste VV 3.0, then quickly moved over to a Sigelei 20w. Last night I got my hands on my first mech, Stingray Clone. What gives here?!?! I always enjoyed RDAs and the tuning of the coils to try and get a smoother hit on my VV mods. But now, for the hell of it, I went sub ohm on this mech using a Sony 18650, and I can't believe how smooth the hit is! I mean, I have gone low ohm, 1.2-1.4 on my VV and it was harsh IMO. The throat hit was something fierce and that is simply not something I am looking for. But on this mech, even at sub ohm its super smooth and the flavor is like tasting these all for the first time again! I have totally fallen in love with mechs now and rediscovered my love for RDAs. Right now I am running a dual micro .76ohm build on my Quasar and a .65ohm on my Trident. Its like a whole new world. Anyone have any input as to why a mech's output just seems to jive better with RDA's or is this just me? Either way, I am SOLD!

Not sure if you've made up your mind yet but I just stumbled on this thread. If I may be so bold as to solidly recommend the Sigelei. As far as a VV/VW mod, its the best for the price that I've found. It fits all of my devices and I can tune it to whatever I feel like vaping. Here is a quick write up I did on this. If you have any questions about this specific mod feel free to ask away, I have put it through its paces for sure!

Hey guys, I got a new set up last night and was really excited to give it a try. Popped my new Quasar RDA on my new Stingray mech and went to work. Such a great vape experience, best so far! Until, I pulled the AFC off the Quasar and one of the o rings fell out, cut in half. Crap. It still functions fine, but the AFC is now really loose and will not stay on tight. Long story short, I need to grab a new o ring for this and from what I've found online it looks like this is one of the issues with Quasar design, so I will want to grab a few. Anyone got any good links or ideas as to where to get o rings? I found some at home depot and I plan on taking the one that is still in tact out of the RDA and running out there around lunch time, but I figured I would throw up a post and see if anyone had any ideas. From what I've found out they are 17 x 1 o rings. Thanks!

Interested to hear how these pan out. One of the guys at my local B&M has one that is a clone and he has been using it for awhile now. He said it works well but the top button sticks from time to time. Thankfully it isn't the fire button that sticks!

Just did a quick search on these as I had never heard of them. Pretty unique design and looks very well made! Please let us know how you like it once you get a build on there and give it a run. I'm intrigued to hear your thoughts!

Just to quickly tag onto what Joshua stated, and ohm meter is absolutely necessary when you start building. I used my Sigelei 20w for two days using that to check resistance and once I finally picked up a meter I realized the Sigelei was around .2 ohms lower than the meter. Accuracy and battery safety are two top priorities IMO. Plenty of info out there and a meter won't run you more than $20-$25, and it makes a handy little stand when rebuilding too!

Vince, I would break down the tank and take a look at all of your wet seal areas. I personally haven't used any of the single coil heads so I cannot speak to those. However, check your wet seals then check the heads again. Be sure to look very, very closely as the silicone can hide the smallest little leak. Also I've noticed that sometimes these coils take a little while to "burn in". But the fact that you have liquid on the battery obviously means there is a leak somewhere in the lower end of the tank. Is there a gurgling while you are drawing on this? Also, make sure the tank is at least half full. Many of the protanks and kanger heads tend to gurgle a bit once they get low. Especially while that coil is breaking in.

Guys, I have pulled several of these apart and it really isn't as big an issue as this has been blown out to be. As I stated before, the insulators are now made out of silicone as opposed to rubber. People had been complaining to Kanger that they were tasting rubber when using these. I am assuming this is because they were pushing more wattage through the heads and over heating the coils and subsequently heating up the rubber or even burning it. So, Kanger switched to silicone which is a softer material and not as apt to burn and give off an unwanted taste. The dual coil heads that myself and Kevin have been running work just fine and are definitely not counterfeit. This appears to be an issue of what I will deem as "over-fiddling". No need for alarm, just take care when inserting and removing your heads for cleaning and you will be just fine with single, dual, whatever ohm heads from Kanger. Mtdobies, if you have a tear in your insulator I would recommend discontinuing use of that head. You don't want juice leaking onto your battery and of course the tank will gurgle and flood and you will not enjoy the experience. Further back in this thread there is a link for insulators if you would like to purchase some and rebuild that head. If you vape these at a lower wattage, say on a ego or something like that the rubber ones will do you well and be more robust. However, if you are using this on something of a higher wattage or intend to, I would recommend going with the silicone and just be careful as you insert and remove the heads.

I experimented a bit last night with these and found that in all the heads I have had issue with it is indeed the insulator that shows any damage. I even put in a new coil and chain vaped it to try and pull juice past the wick down past the air flow into the battery connection, not a dry hit or any liquid made it past. I agree that the insulator shouldn't be a liquid seal and that any issue should be with the upper o-ring as that is where the seal is actually made. Really not sure whats going on here guys. The only thing I can think to try is ordering a few of the rubber insulators, rebuilding the coils, and trying that. Other than that, my only recommendation would be that with Kanger heads, less is more. Put them in, and don't pull them out until the coil is bad and then replace them. That way there is not way they can get damaged.