miatafrank

Hey, I'm in Washington state, so where the heck is this cabin located.....LOL

Also, if you look at how a cartomizer is made, there is a kind of a straw/tube going right down the middle of it, right to the hole in the bottom. Dripping would more than likely make a huge mess.

Also, if you look at how a cartomizer is made, there is a kind of a straw/tube going right down the middle of it, right to the hole in the bottom. Dripping would more than likely make a huge mess.

Any time someone says something is "FREE" it should raise all kinds of red flags. There is no free ride in life, and anyone who says differently is selling snake oil.

OK, I know I just stated the obvious, so why are there people who fall for this kind of crap evey day.

Alot of the juices out there have a bit of a chemical aftertaste to me, so I really like the organic flavors from vaperite.com. I tend to go more for the coffee flavors, so I would climb any mountain for Vaperite Organic Kona Cream.

Remember when you smoked analogs, and you thought nothing went together better than a cigarette and a cup of coffee. Since I started vaping, I really don't want that smokey taste of an analog cigarette anywhere near me, but there's still something appealing about the concept of a cigarette and a cup of coffee. You can have thick plumes of vapor and the taste of the best cup of coffee you ever had, all rolled into one with Vaperite Organic Kona Cream.

At work I stealth vape since my livelihood could be on the line, but at a bar I have to agree with Ben. At a bar, what is the worst that could happen, they tell you to go outside. You could try talking to the bartender, and if it's OK with him then you're golden. At the bar I frequent the most, the bartender said I could do it inside, so I do. At other bars that I don't frequent as much, I just start vaping in stealth mode and progressively step it up until I'm producing huge clouds, and I've never been told not to.

The only people who have ever come to me and said "hey, you know you can't smoke in here" have been analog smokers who are just jealous that I'm vaping inside while they have to smoke outside. I explain it to them and they seem interested, so I give them several websites. Do I ever see any of them follow through?.......NO, hardly ever.

I just got the Joker back after the AV upgrade. I ran the same test, and here are the results. I adjusted the voltage to 5.08v, and with the 3.3ohm resistor load it measured 4.98V. That is exactly the same regulator performance as the buzz, in a package that is thinner, lighter weight, and better looking than the Buzz.

Don't get me wrong, I really do like the Buzz just fine, but as Burn said "the Buzz is my back up".

For anyone who might be wondering about the VP/PT, Connected to the AC supply the output is 5.46v, and loaded with the 3.3ohm resistor it is 4.80v. Connected to the USB port on my computer it is 5.08v, and loaded it is 4.28v. This was a surprising result.

It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
Current = voltage divided by resistance
Resistance = voltage divided by current
Power = voltage multiplied by current

Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a standard atty;
5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a LR atty;
5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

A 6v device with a standard atty;
6v / 3ohms = 2amps
6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

A 6v device with a HV atty;
6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.

It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
Current = voltage divided by resistance
Resistance = voltage divided by current
Power = voltage multiplied by current

Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a standard atty;
5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

A 5v device with a LR atty;
5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

A 6v device with a standard atty;
6v / 3ohms = 2amps
6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

A 6v device with a HV atty;
6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.

I think that the wetbox idea is right on the money. The wet box uses cartos, and feeds juice from the bottom. A blind person should be able to feel for the button, and know where it is instinctively in no time. As snubber said, battery charging might be a challenge, so I would have several batteries that she can work with. I'm thinking maybe 6 batteries so she can have a storage box where she stores fully charged batteries. One battery in use, when it falls off vapor production put it on a separate box for staging "to be charged". place a battery in the charger over night and it will be charged by morning, out of the charger and into the fully charged box. Take a battery from the staging box and put it in the charger, charge all day, should be charged by night. Move charged battery to the fully charged storage box, move a drained battery from the staging box into the charger for the overnight charge. Get the picture?

With enough batteries, she should be able to handle this by feel, and the fully charged box should have more batteries in it than the staging box.

Filling juice bottles might be the next challenge, is something that she may need help with. I wouldn't want her spilling any on herself.

Blind people can learn all kinds of ways to be self sufficient, and getting to know her a little, and how she can use other senses to compensate will help fine tune the plan to her abilities. Concentrate on what she CAN do to compensate for what she can't (see).

I'm also trying to do the same thing at my company. I've been sending information to our HR department, and also our health/safety/and facilities department.

Thanks Christopher, great article.

Try this site

http://www.polycase.com/

Lots of boxes here