Jump to content

miatafrank

VT Member
  • Posts

    216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from DJ Colonel Corn in Electronics 101   
    It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

    Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

    Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

    A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
    Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
    Current = voltage divided by resistance
    Resistance = voltage divided by current
    Power = voltage multiplied by current

    Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

    A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
    Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
    The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
    We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

    A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
    3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
    3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a standard atty;
    5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
    5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a LR atty;
    5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
    5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

    A 6v device with a standard atty;
    6v / 3ohms = 2amps
    6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

    A 6v device with a HV atty;
    6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
    6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

    My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.
  2. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from tiedyedvaper in Electronics 101   
    It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

    Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

    Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

    A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
    Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
    Current = voltage divided by resistance
    Resistance = voltage divided by current
    Power = voltage multiplied by current

    Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

    A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
    Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
    The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
    We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

    A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
    3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
    3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a standard atty;
    5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
    5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a LR atty;
    5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
    5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

    A 6v device with a standard atty;
    6v / 3ohms = 2amps
    6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

    A 6v device with a HV atty;
    6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
    6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

    My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.
  3. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from christov11 in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  4. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Conneazoo in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  5. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Sythe in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  6. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from RobChase in Electronics 101   
    It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

    Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

    Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

    A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
    Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
    Current = voltage divided by resistance
    Resistance = voltage divided by current
    Power = voltage multiplied by current

    Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

    A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
    Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
    The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
    We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

    A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
    3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
    3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a standard atty;
    5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
    5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a LR atty;
    5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
    5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

    A 6v device with a standard atty;
    6v / 3ohms = 2amps
    6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

    A 6v device with a HV atty;
    6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
    6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

    My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.
  7. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from highpass in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  8. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from lazymorulz in Electronics 101   
    It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

    Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

    Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

    A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
    Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
    Current = voltage divided by resistance
    Resistance = voltage divided by current
    Power = voltage multiplied by current

    Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

    A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
    Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
    The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
    We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

    A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
    3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
    3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a standard atty;
    5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
    5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a LR atty;
    5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
    5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

    A 6v device with a standard atty;
    6v / 3ohms = 2amps
    6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

    A 6v device with a HV atty;
    6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
    6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

    My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.
  9. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from lazymorulz in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  10. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Gadzoox in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  11. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from MystyrE in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  12. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Ansah in Electronics 101   
    It's time for electronics 101, and how it applies to PVs.

    Current flow (measured in amps) is the movement of electrons through a conductor. These electrons are sent out by the power source (volts) to act as the workers, and resistance (measured in ohms) is in the path of current flow and will slow the electrons (workers) down. Power (measured in watts) is the measurement of work being performed in the circuit, and will always manifest itself in the form of heat (doesn't that sound like heating up an atomizer to you?). Of course too much heat (power/watts) will pop the atty.

    Now for the math, and I promise it's not that complicated:

    A physicist by the name of George Simon Ohm discovered that there is a tight relationship between voltage, current, and resistance. This relationship can be described and predicted by mathematics, which has become known as "Ohm's Law". The basic statement of this relationship is that voltage and current are directly proportional (when we increase voltage, current will increase as well), and that current and resistance are inversely proportional (when we increase resistance, current will decrease).
    Voltage = current multiplied by resistance
    Current = voltage divided by resistance
    Resistance = voltage divided by current
    Power = voltage multiplied by current

    Now let's apply Ohm's Law to a PV:

    A 3.7v device with a standard atty;
    Voltage 3.7v divided by an atty that is 3ohms = 1.23amps
    The heat produced by this is determined by the power in watts which is 3.7v multiplied by 1.23amps = 4.563watts
    We know this works, and we can use these numbers to compare the performance of the other combinations.

    A 3.7v device with a LR atty;
    3.7v / 1.5ohms = 2.46amps
    3.7v * 2.46amps = 9.126watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a standard atty;
    5v / 3ohms = 1.66amps
    5v * 1.66amps = 8.33watts (remember, this is the heat)

    A 5v device with a LR atty;
    5v / 1.5ohms = 3.33amps
    5v * 3.33amps = 16.66watts (remember, this is the heat.....POP)

    A 6v device with a standard atty;
    6v / 3ohms = 2amps
    6v * 2amps = 12watts (remember, this is the heat...on the bourder of POP)

    A 6v device with a HV atty;
    6v / 4.3ohms = 1.395amps
    6v * 1.395amps = 8.372watts (remember, this is the heat....is this really any better than a standard atty at 5v?)

    My ohm values for the attys are approximate, but you get the picture. This really answers all the questions "will this work with this?", "will that work with that?". I also think that anyone dabbling in making their own mods should understand these basics when choosing components that will work well together, and avoid injury.
  13. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from kwaione in Testing The Performance Of A Pv   
  14. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from digibomb in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  15. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Uma in Dual Coils   
    The two coils are wired in parallel. Each coil is 3.2ohms, so the combined resistance is half that of one, which makes it 1.6ohms
  16. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Christopher in Dual Coils   
    The two coils are wired in parallel. Each coil is 3.2ohms, so the combined resistance is half that of one, which makes it 1.6ohms
  17. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Phaseman66 in Review Of The Vaprlife Diamante   
    I recently purchased a Diamante from vaprlife.com. After using it for about a month now, I thought I’d write a review. Since a PV is really just a voltage and current delivery device, I’m really not going to go into anything about vapor production. That aspect always depends on what atomizer/cartomizer you are using, and the use of VG or PG juice. I will split this up into 4 sections, appearance, quality, technology, and performance.

    Appearance:
    The Diamante is a very clean looking unit, using many of the same parts as the Joker. It uses the same body tube, and battery cap as the joker. The top cap is very similar, but my Joker has a smooth cone shape at the very tip, and the Diamante has slight ridges at the top. The ridges aren’t deep enough to call them a drip well, but do slow stay juice down to avoid running down the side. The main difference between the Joker-AV and the Diamante is in the center section where the voltage is adjusted. The Joker-AV has a simple silver band in the middle, with a hole for the adjustment screw. That same silver section in the center is longer in the Diamante, and has a voltmeter built in, with simple up and down buttons for the adjustment. The Diamante comes in your choice of 4 body colors, your choice of 4 LED colors, and your choice of 510 or 801 fittings.

    Quality:
    There seems to be 2 camps when it comes to the main button on vaprlife mods. Those who like it just fine, and those who hate it because it’s small, stiff, and “it hurts my finger”. I personally don’t have a problem with it’s comfort, and find it to be a nice quality switch. The ring around the button fits nice and tight around the hole with no gaps. It is typical with vaprlife mods to see a screw on the opposite side of where the switch is, which holds the switch in. They are now putting a nylon plug in the hole where this screw is, which seals the hole and prevents anyone from turning the screw out of curiosity (which could damage the mod). I thought this worth mentioning as an improvement in quality. Beyond that, you can always expect that the pieces fit together smoothly and without gaps, which I find to be typical quality of a vaprlife mod.

    Technology:
    The important technology behind the Diamante is PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). This is a very efficient method of adjusting output voltage, and allows the unit to exhibit improved battery life. It does this by pulsing the output very quickly, and the duration of the pulses determine the percentage of the total battery voltage applied to the load (the atomizer or cartomizer in this case). The unit has a built in voltmeter, and those who do not have (or don’t know how to use) a multimeter will find this to be a very useful feature. The fully electronic adjustment controls utilize simple up and down buttons, which make it extremely easy to operate (no more jeweler’s screwdriver). I have seen many reviews for adjustable voltage units that say something to the affect that it would not be a good mod for the less experienced. With the simple controls that this unit has, I think that anyone could operate it.

    Performance:
    The PWM technology really works quite well, but if you have older 16340s that have been cycled many times, you better get a new set. Older batteries that have many charge cycles on them may cause the unit to have less battery life than it should. Get a new set and the battery life between charges will magically lengthen to a full day of vaping. I order my units with an 801 connector, and vaprlife units have a nice airflow adjustment designed into the connector. I don’t know if their 510 connectors have a similar adjustment, but this is an important feature. By adjusting the airflow, you can change the feel of the draw, and since airflow is a factor in vapor production, being able to change it can help customize the overall performance. In most regulated adjustable voltage units, the loaded voltage is typically within 0.1volt of the unloaded voltage. The built in voltmeter does not show this change. I haven’t done any further testing in this area, but I suspect that the built in voltmeter is showing the voltage as a setting and not actual loaded voltage. Since there is very little difference in these values, I doubt that this will affect performance in any way.

    In conclusion, I would call this a very impressive unit with a price that makes it very reasonable for such a feature packed little beast.
  18. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from fran1959 in How To Contribute High Quality Threads/replies To Vt   
    This is a good topic, thank you Blake for bringing it up.


    I will often disappear for long periods of time, but I'm not really gone, just not posting. I am still reading the posts to see what (if anything) is going on, but unless I have something to say that I think will contribute to the community, I will not post. I really don't care what my post count is, just as long as what I am saying is helpful in some way. So while my post count seems really low after a year of membership here, my post quality has always been mostly helpful.
  19. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Christopher in How To Contribute High Quality Threads/replies To Vt   
    This is a good topic, thank you Blake for bringing it up.


    I will often disappear for long periods of time, but I'm not really gone, just not posting. I am still reading the posts to see what (if anything) is going on, but unless I have something to say that I think will contribute to the community, I will not post. I really don't care what my post count is, just as long as what I am saying is helpful in some way. So while my post count seems really low after a year of membership here, my post quality has always been mostly helpful.
  20. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from GPurv in A Noobie’S Guide To Batteries   
    A Noobie's Guide to Batteries

    While in the chat room one night, someone was asking if there was a guide for batteries. He was hearing all these battery numbers in the conversation, and not familiar enough to follow along. I decided to write this guide to help familiarize the noobs to all the batteries we use for mods.



    All of the batteries we use are either 3.7volts or 3.0volts. There is however a 5volt battery used in the Mako Maksi, but it's not one of the popular batteries you frequently hear about, so I'll just concentrate this discussion on the 3 and 3.7volt varieties.



    The 3.0volt batteries are primarily used in pairs for a total of 6.0volts for 6volt vaping, and single battery mods are 3.7volts. The 3.7volt batteries are usually only paired if the mod has a voltage regulator (adjustable or fixed) for consistency in voltage throughout battery life and load conditions. Now that you have a little background on how the batteries are used, let's try to make sense out of the numbering system.



    The first 2 digits of the battery number indicate the dimension measuring across the battery. So a 10440 measures 10mm across, a 14500 measures 14mm across, and so forth, and the last 3 digits make reference to the length. For example the last 3 digits in a 14500 battery would suggest that the length would be 50.0mm long, but that would be for the unprotected version of the battery. The overcharge/overdischarge protection circuit will add between 2 and 3 mm to the length of the battery, so a 14500 is really 52.5mm long.



    Aside from the physical size of the battery, there is something referred to as mah (milliamp hour) rating. This is a capacity rating of the battery, and indicates the amount of energy the battery can store. In other words, how long it will last between charges (more mah, more charge life). Physical size will affect mah ratings, and therefore smaller size batteries will typically have lower mah ratings. Some batteries are available in more than 1 mah rating.



    Below is a listing of the more commonly used batteries in e-cigarette mods.










    **This is not meant to be a complete list, so please don't shoot me of you know of a battery I didn't list.**
  21. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from Uma in Today Marks 1 Year......   
    .......since I lit up a stinky analog. A big thanks to those who have helped me find my way through the maze of information, and the learning curve to reach this point.
  22. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from KaYoTiiC in Today Marks 1 Year......   
    .......since I lit up a stinky analog. A big thanks to those who have helped me find my way through the maze of information, and the learning curve to reach this point.
  23. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from GPurv in New Utah Legislation   
    I just got this email from CASAA. I cut and pasted it below in it's entirety.

    *********************************************************************************

    CASAA members,
    Here is a copy of the CASAA follow-up letter sent to all of the representatives on the Utah House Business and Labor Committee. Elaine Keller and Kristin Noll-Marsh drafted this letter yesterday and sent it out last night. Personally, I think that the letter is brilliant. As many of you may or may not know, Rep. Ray (the sponsor of HB 170) has vowed to attempt to reintroduce this bill. If you would like to write a letter or make a phone call, go to the CASAA UT Call to Action page for talking points and contact information. It is also worth noting that, unlike many other states, the UT legislators have requested that we send correspondence via e-mail.
    I also want to take this opportunity to thank Jacinda Ross, Aaron Frazier, Julie Woessner, Treece Clewell, Greg Conley, Elaine Keller and Kristin Noll-Marsh for all of their hard work in Utah. But, we are not out of the woods yet as long as Rep. Ray is still on the war path. Keep up the good work everyone.
    Sincerely,
    Ron WardCASAA Director



    Dear Representative:The Consumer Advocates for Smoke-free Alternatives Association (CASAA) sincerely thanks you for voting AGAINST H.B. 170 - Tobacco and Nicotine Product Amendments. We request that the members who voted FOR the proposal reconsider their opinion about smoke-free products, based on correcting the confusion introduced during the February 25 public testimony. Many of those who testified about health risks were referring to the effects of cigarettes and smoking. However, H.B. 170 concerned smoke-free products that many smokers have been able to use as a replacement for smoking. If smokers who cannot or will not quit were provided with truthful information-that switching to a smoke-free product could reduce their risks of smoking-related disease by up to 99%--many, many lives could be saved. The 2009 Family Smoking Prevention and Tobacco Control Act directed the FDA to establish requirements for identifying "reduced exposure" and "modified risk" tobacco products. Any tobacco product that is not combusted reduces exposure to the tar, carbon monoxide, particulates, and thousands of chemicals found in smoke. "Modified risk" products will need to demonstrate that they reduce harm or the risk of tobacco-related disease.Amy Sands testified: "These are cancer-causing, toxic products. There's no doubt - all sorts of scientific research to prove that smokeless tobacco products like these addict and they kill."Ms. Sands may be confused by older epidemiological studies on products that delivered higher quantities of harmful substances than current versions of these products. Nevertheless, even those earlier products eliminated the lung disease that is triggered by inhaling smoke. They also carried lower risks of cardiovascular disease and cancer than smoking.While there is zero scientific evidence that modern smokeless tobacco products cause cancer or kill the user in any other manner, there is plenty of evidence to the contrary. Snus, a moist powder tobacco product, was developed in Sweden for the express purpose of reducing the health risks faced by smokers. Snus is processed to deliver lower concentrations of Tobacco-specific Nitrosamines (TSNAs) than traditional smokeless tobacco products. Foulds, Ranstrom, Burke, and Fagerstrom reviewed the evidence on the effects of snus on smoking and health in Sweden. They concluded, "It is dependence forming, but does not appear to cause cancer or respiratory diseases."Foulds, et al. Effect of smokeless tobacco (snus) on smoking and public health in Sweden. Tobacco Control 2003;12:349-359. http://www.tobaccoprogram.org/pdf/TC12349.pdf Lee and Hamling reviewed 89 studies on cancer risk of smokeless tobacco and concluded, "Risk from modern products is much less than for smoking."Lee, et al. Systematic review of the relation between smokeless tobacco and cancer in Europe and North America. BMC Medicine 2009, 7:36. http://www.biomedcentral.com/1741-7015/7/36 Peter Lee's most recent review of the evidence concludes: "Using snus is clearly much safer than smoking. While smoking substantially increases the risk of cancer and cardiovascular diseases, any increase from snus use is undemonstrated, and if it exists is probably about 1% of that from smoking."Lee, PN. Summary of the epidemiological evidence relating snus to health. Regul Toxicol Pharmacol. 2010 Dec 14. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21163315Electronic cigarettes are relatively new products; however, they have been available since 2003. There have been no deaths and no reports of any serious adverse events associated with electronic cigarettes anywhere in the world. Surveys show that over 90% of users report that their health has improved.Heavner, et al. Electronic cigarettes (e-cigarettes) as potential tobacco harm reduction products: Results of an online survey of ecigarette users. Tobacco Harm Reduction 2010 Yearbook. http://tobaccoharmreduction.org/wpapers/011v1.pdf The dissolvable tobacco products are even newer, so there is no published research on product safety. However, given the fact that the products are not smoked and that they contain levels of carcinogens on par with pharmaceutical nicotine products, it is most likely that their safety profile will be similar that of snus and electronic cigarettes. Representative Ray stated, "We know that one third of kids who start using these are going to die at some point in their life from the use of tobacco." This statistic refers to smoking, not to the use of modern smokeless tobacco products. Source: CDC, "Projected Smoking-Related Deaths Among Youth - United States," MMWR, 45(44), November 8, 1996. Utah PTA Health Commissioner Liz Zentner commented about electronic cigarettes, "The problem is that a lethal dose of nicotine for children is 10 mg and one of those cartridges contains 500 to over 1000 mg."This is false. Cartridges may contain nicotine that has been purified (pharmaceutical grade), but the content is not "pure nicotine." A cartridge contains no more than one gram (1000 mg) of a liquid solution of water, propylene glycol and/or vegetable glycerin, flavoring, and (optionally) nicotine. The "high dose" cartridges typically contain less than 2% of actual nicotine (20 mg) and the solution is soaked into an absorbent material, which would make it nearly impossible for a child to "drink" from the cartridge.More than one speaker mentioned accidental poisoning of children by tobacco products. Given the fact that over 70% of tobacco product poisonings are caused by eating cigarettes, butts, and cigars, it does not appear that banning flavored smokeless tobaccos would have solved the already existing issue of accidental ingestion. Not only would HB 170 have NOT solved that problem, it would have practically ensured that many children would remain exposed to second-hand smoke as well as to cigarettes, butts, and cigars, because smoking relatives would have been denied access to a variety of acceptable smoke-free alternative. Additionally, 1,307 poisonings were caused by pharmaceutical nicotine products, yet there is no effort to ban the sale of the Mint, Fresh Mint, Cinnamon Surge, Cherry, White Ice, and Fruit Chill flavors of Nicorette products. The Nicorette lozenges look, smell, and taste much more like candy than the flavored dissolvable tobacco orbs. http://www.aapcc.org/dnn/Portals/0/correctedannualreport.pdfCASAA shares the concern for the safety of children. Parents should always keep any product that contains nicotine-including FDA-approved products such as patches, lozenges, and gum-out of the reach of pets and children. CASAA strongly supports prohibiting the sale of these adult products to underage youth and encourages regulating packaging and advertising to reduce potential accidents.There is no evidence that adding flavorings to tobacco products induces children to start smoking. Conrad, Flay, and Hill reviewed 27 studies regarding onset of cigarette smoking. Major factors that govern initiation of smoking include low socioeconomic states, peer and school bonding, parental example, and peer smoking approval.Conrad, et al. "Why children start smoking cigarettes: predictors of onset. " Br J Addict. 1992 Dec;87(12):1711-24. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1490085 There is also no evidence that kids tend to start with smokeless tobacco products and "graduate" to smoking. If smoke-free products are a gateway, the gate swings away from smoking. Ranstrom and Foulds found, "Among men who used snus as a single aid, 66% succeeded in quitting completely, as compared with 47% of those using nicotine gum (OR 2.2, 95% CI 1.3 to 3.7) or 32% for those using the nicotine patch (OR 4.2, 95% CI 2.1 to 8.6). Women using snus as an aid were also significantly more likely to quit smoking successfully than those using nicotine patches or gum."Ramström, et al. "Role of snus in initiation and cessation of tobacco smoking in Sweden." Tobacco Control 15:210-214. http://tobaccocontrol.bmj.com/content/15/3/210.abstract The same thing is true of electronic cigarettes. Smokers are switching to electronic cigarettes, not vice versa. Success rates for achieving complete abstinence from smoking range as high as 80%. Those users who enjoy pleasant flavors soon lose their taste for smoking and have no urges to smoke. Claims that adult smokers would not want these flavors are based on mistaken assumption and not actual research. Surveys have shown that thousands of middle-aged users find the non-tobacco flavors to be a key factor for successfully substituting electronic cigarettes for smoking.Recent studies show that smoking quit rates have stalled and start rates are again increasing in youth. Many of these tobacco users may choose smokeless products over smoking if given accurate information about the relative risks. If HB 170 had succeeded in removing or banning low-risk smokeless tobacco products, it would have forced new and existing users to purchase only the most hazardous products available on the market. Given the enormous health risks of smoking, is it ethical to create barriers to products that carry very low disease risks and are highly acceptable replacements for smoking?If you have any questions or concerns about smokeless alternatives please do not hesitate to contact us. We would be happy to provide you with additional scientific research reports which support the urgent need to not only keep these smokeless products available to adult tobacco users, but to also design tobacco regulation to educate and encourage smokers to switch to reduced harm alternatives.Sincerely,Yolanda Villa, Esq.CASAA Legal Director585-267-5458 yvilla@gmail.com Theresa A. Whitt, MDCASAA Medical Director325-370-9868 theresa.whitt@yahoo.com
  24. Like
    miatafrank got a reaction from GPurv in Got My Father An Ego For Christmas.   
    He himself said that one of his co-workers quit with the ecig, so wait till he tells to his co-worker what he got for Christmas. Sometimes reinforcement from someone outside the family circle is just what a stubborn sole needs to be able to think it was his idea, instead of a family member pushing him. I do understand, as my dad was also king of stubborn, and leary of anything new. It took us years to get hin to like the remote control for the TV, because for his generation, if he had to figure out anything that had more that like three buttons on it, he didn't want to hear about it.

    Good luck
  25. Like
    miatafrank reacted to WillBlack in Testing The Performance Of A Pv   
    A decent vid.

    A few observations from what you posted.

    In your first demo with the Mark Mod (a 14500 I assume) the unloaded voltage of 3.98V would indicate either a not fully charged cell, or a problem with the Mod itself. Raw cell voltage and unloaded mod voltage should be almost identical, maybe a 0.02V drop... tops. I'm assuming the meter is fine from your later USB adapter voltage test.

    Any time someone builds a basic battery mod, box, tube, flashlight etc. the raw cell to unloaded mod volt comparison is important to make sure there is no unwanted additional resistance being introduced.

    What that test shows quite clearly is what a poor choice the typical 900mAh 14500 cell is at 1.5Ω. Part of the problem is that they are nowhere near 900mAh at high amp loads. And mAh are related to how much current they can supply.

    Here's a test, with a usable range. 4.2 - 3V at a rather light (by our standards) 0.8A discharge.



    The verdict? The 900mAh UF14500 is actually 592mAh. And that's at .8A, a LR atty wants 3 times that amount which means the mAh will actually be lower.

    In your test @ 3.3Ω you had 3.61V loaded.

    Folks should realize mAh's play a huge part in performance, not just vape times. Here's a loaded test by Rocketman. His meter is quite accurate. The cell is a freshly charged 18650 UF3000mAh (OK for low current demands like this, for LR use look elsewhere).

    Here he is firing a carto that he metered at 3.2Ω.



    Sweet.

    Your PT test with the 2A PS was interesting. It shows that a 2A power supply does not guarantee 2A to the atty. I may be old school but if it's a 510 PT I want to know how it works with the real deal, the Joyes. Extrapolating from your test results/drops a Joye atty user (510 or 306) would be at ~4.2V (maybe). It would have been interesting to see how a 1.5Ω load on the PT would compare to your first 14500 test.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines