Rixter

I just wanted to add my 2¢ to the "to chuck or not to chuck" topic of recent debate. IMO, whichever style of vaping you choose, whether it's mouth-to-lung or direct-to-lung, it should be the one that satisfies you the most. I see nothing wrong with either style, and both have their benefits. If you enjoy a vaping style that feels the most like smoking an analog, then mouth-to lung (slight to moderate air flow restriction) is probably the way to go. If you enjoy "chucking" huge clouds, then direct-to-lung (sub-ohm with low nic & plenty of air flow) might be for you. Granted, cloud chucking is mostly performed as spectacle, but I see absolutely nothing wrong with a little showing off every now and then, if that's what you're into. Basically, there's no "rule book" on the correct way to vape (that I know of), so it's up to you. I typically vape mouth-to-lung, but I occasionally like to show off to vaping buddies with a Mount St. Helen-style eruption of vapor. Just remember that filling a room with dense clouds of vapor can be a little off-putting to some people, so "vaping etiquette" dictates that you use a little common sense before doing so. Also, I've heard many times that cloud chasers experience little to no flavor in their vapor, but I've found that this is definitely not the case for me, as the juices that I use provide plenty of flavor from both methods. Lastly, vape safe...know your equipment and its limitations, and however you choose to vape, do it because it makes you happy.

For vapers who enjoy Mad Murdock's Radiator Pluid (like me), but are concerned with artificial coloring, just buy some Mad Murdock's Genuine Cutter and nic it up yourself. From the product page: Cutter is pluid without the nicotine and green colour and a higher VG ratio. The original purpose of this juice was to use with 20mg Pluid to "Cut" the nicotine level down without diminishing the flavor. There are many people who will add their own nicotine to this flavor to create a higher VG Pluid without color. That being said, Pluid is a very pretty juice. It's not easy being green

While searching for some new mod batteries, I ran across this little piece of information about Sony 18650 batteries that I thought I'd share with you. This is apparently an email from someone who purchased a VTC5 and wanted to double check the vendor's specs with Sony: I recently purchased some Sony VTC5 18650 batteries from an online vendor. They listed the battery specs on their website, but I wanted to double check with Sony before I started building my setup. I couldn't find anything on their website, so I emailed them. Here was their reply: Dear customer, thank you for your inquiry. The 18650 type batteries are no longer manufactured by Sony. This product was never intended for individual, public sale and are not eligible for warranty or engineering support. It was only available to OEM makers of specific devices. The specifications and markings on the battery may vary depending upon the OEM’s requirements. Therefore, it is difficult to determine the true manufacturer or authenticity of the batteries without physical inspection and manufacturing code research. This type of battery is widely available on the internet market through non-authorized resellers. Therefore, Sony is not liable for the performance or use of this type battery for non-intended purposes. Such applications should be done at the user’s own risk. Furthermore, any battery of this type claimed to be Sony brand may be older stock. We apologize that we cannot offer further assistance with this matter. Sincerely, Media Services by Sony The bolding was theirs. BUT... ...The Plumes of Hazard (episode 31, 1:05), guest "Mike" (at 7:40 of the video below) explains that the above-posted info IS NOT entirely accurate. Hmmm.

Rest In Pieces, Dale.

.4Ω on my Infinite CLT with dual twisted 28g 5/4 coils around Japanese organic cotton wicking.

I suppose I could do it the mathless way and mix up one bottle each of the recommended 3%, and then blend the two finished flavors 3:1.

Okay, but for that ratio, do I still stick with the recommended 3% total flavoring (2.25% chocolate : .75% tobacco), or would it be 6% total (4.5% chocolate : 1.5% tobacco)?

I want to make a chocolate-tobacco e-liquid, but I'm not sure if I should stick to the flavor percentage that I use to mix the individual juices, or should I cut each amount in half. For example, the two flavors I will be using are very concentrated and taste great at 3%. When I mix my juice, should I: A ) use 3% for each flavor for a total of 6% or B ) cut each to 1½% for a total of 3% My gut tells me the answer's A, but I'd appreciate any insight from experienced DIYers.

Since I was messing around with the Japanese organic cotton today anyway, I figured I'd have a go with it on a Genesis hybrid. I wrapped a 6/5 twisted 28g coil around a 2.5mm rod and ended up with a .9Ω coil, which I installed on the deck of a Rainbow Heaven Elite Hybrid V1. I then threaded it with Japanese organic cotton. The result was a fantastic vaping experience...wicking was superb. Since the Elite has a tank that slides over the body of the RBA, it was easy to pass the cotton through the coil and wick hole by starting it through the top and pulling it down from underneath. The same can't be said for Youde's AGA-T2, AGI, AGA-S, or AGT (to name a few), since their glass tanks are sandwiched between the top and bottom decks and held in place by the positive post and nuts...it would be almost impossible to thread the cotton through the top and into the tank. IMO, Japanese organic cotton would kick stainless steel mesh's @$$ in a bar fight!

It already has.

The question I ask myself when I see this kind of "study" is, "how do I feel since making the switch from smoking to vaping?" The answer is always a resounding, "much, much better." I have regular check-ups with my family doctor, and he always tells my that my lab results are, "right between the goalposts".

I know this is just a basic dual coil build, but it's my first one using Japanese organic cotton, so I thought I'd share the results. The build deck of my Infinite CLT V1 The resistance is 1Ω, which is higher than I thought it would be when I was building it, but they're dual 7/6 28g Kanthal-A1 coils wrapped around a 3mm mandrel instead of my usual 2.5mm one...I wanted to make sure I could use a fatter piece of cotton for better wicking. Next time, I'll go with one less wrap per coil or a heavier gauge of Kanthal-A1. Performance is phenomenal, even if the vapor is a little cooler than I would like to see. The Japanese organic cotton wicks really well, and is a lot easier to thread into the coils than the 3.5mm silica rope wick I've been using. Ho Ho Ho!!!

That was some really good information that you provided, but I have to disagree with you on one point: "I really don't hardly ever test my coils anymore because I just don't build that low, nor do I find scorching hot builds really that enjoyable." You should ALWAYS check your builds before firing them. It doesn't matter if you've done it a bazillion times...you can't know whether your build is safe without metering it first. You can do the same wrap over and over and still have small (and sometimes not-so-small) variances in resistance that could lead to disaster. Granted, modern high-amp IMRs are pretty safe and, when shorted, take a substantial amount of time to actually pop, but like you said, "it's best to be safe". You don't have to spend a ton on a meter either...you can get ohmmeters online for around $10-$20 that should do the trick just fine.

The Kanger Subtank product page states: "OCC: 0.5 Sub Ohm / Range 15 - 30 W", so given that I try not to drain my batteries below 3.5v, that would put me between ~35 watts / 8½ amps @ 4.2 v, and ~24½ watts / 7 amps @ 3.5 v. That's a little on the high side with a fresh battery but not by much. Everything looks pretty good on paper (from the numbers), but I'd still like to hear from someone who's used it on a mech mod.

I've seen plenty of reviews about the new Kanger Subtank, but they all seem to show it being used on APVs. Does anyone here have any experience using the Subtank on a mech mod, and if so, what's your opinion of it's performance without power regulation? I'm sure it will do just fine in RBA mode...I'm mainly concerned with its performance in clearo mode .

See post (#18).

I smoked for about 35 years. I got a Leo 800mAh on 4/8/2012, and never smoked another cigarette...never even had the first craving for one.

Here's a couple of videos from Phil Busardo to help you decide. My money's on the Subtank because of it's dual-build capabilities.

After tonight's mid-season finale of TWD, fans have to wait until February 2015 for season 5 to resume. Sucks.

I've been using 80PG/20VG for years in cartos, carto tanks, and Genesis-style RBAs because it wicks really well, produces good vapor, and carries flavor better than mixes with higher VG content. Since I started adding RDAs to the arsenal however, I've noticed a decrease in visible vapor production.

I'm waiting on my Infinite CLT (V1) to arrive in Monday's mail. It looks like it's going to be super easy to build on.

There must be a way to get thick vapor as well as good flavor...I definitely don't want clouds of bland vapor. Also, I really don't enjoy vaping with coil setups much below 1Ω because the vapor is just too hot past that point for my taste, and I prefer some resistance on the draw versus a wide open, airy pull. IMO, the factory holes on an AGA-T2 or IGO-L (~1mm) are just right for me.

I just wanted to make sure that you weren't using a rebuildable with a resistance of under 1Ω. According to some online information I found about the Cool Fire 1, it's minimum load resistance is 1Ω. Glad it was a simple fix.

What PG/VG ratio do you prefer for creating thick clouds of vapor from your RDA? Feel free to list the specifics of your RDA, type of coil(s), and wicking material as well.