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Vari-Volt Box Mod


Brian

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This is a variable voltage box mod that is quite simple and fairly cheap to make. I have to give props to Mamu at Vapers Forum for finding the converter board. I ordered 5 of them and so far it's working great - $7.50 on ebay! It's really easy to use... has a Vin +/- and Vout +/-. The Vin + goes to one terminal of your switch, Vin - goes to the negative battery connector. The Vout + goes to the atty center post and the Vout - goes to the outer atty connector.

I threw this together pretty fast after getting all the parts in, so it's not the final version (note the messy wires). I'm using two 14500. The box is a Hammond 1591-BSBK. I have a lot of other plans for this including a master on/off switch and LED. Trying to figure out a better way to set up the batteries to make a little more room and may switch to RCR123As.

Under load the voltage drops 0.2 volts. I set it at 5.1v and under load it's 4.9v.

DC-DC Converter Board regulator In:3-30V Out:1.3-18V

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i have no idea how that board works but with mose dc to dc they step up (like the it booster board) or, act as a buck booster (like a regulator for those that don't know).

in any matter if it is a buck like i suspect. you could run dual 10440s and still have a hell of a long battery life. bucks are generally 90%-ish effective at not wasting energy.

cr would work pretty good and the way you could cut a lot of that space out would be as follows

-run the board on the side of the wall of the box

-cr123 in series in a straight line pressed up almost to the board. divider wall would be nice between the two, just take one of those vacum sealed packages that are a pia to open and cut some plastic from that to make a wall and epoxy it to the bottom of the box sticking straight up.

use a horn button like the kind from madvapes, they are pretty round but aren't all that deep. if you have any resistors (or something like the legs of one) cut a tad off of the leg and solder that to the + atty nub, run that solid line straigt to the switch. (switch should be pretty close to the + for this to work well. (this is what i do for the tekk mod). you will need to cut off half of the skirt that is on the outer side of the atty down where the soldering will be. don't chop it all off because then its a PIA to solder to and you would also have to do so after its in the box, almost a sure way to melt the box. solder out side and shove it in.

something like this

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Thanks yall. :) It is pretty big... the box is 4.4" X 2.6" X 1.2". I've been using it all day and it's still going. :thumbsup:

The board is 1.5" X 1.5" and about 1/2" high... takes up a lot of space. The switch is just a matter of preference - I really like that switch and searched a long time to find it (and I think I discovered that I have a switch fetish LOL!).

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Very nice, fancy switch too.

I don't know if it's too late or how it sits, but the bottom of the board is the heat sink. I little bit of air space between it and the plastic case is a good idea.

Nothing is mounted solid yet, so I'll look into getting the board up. I've been checking it pretty regularly and not getting any heat from it so far. I like the switch. I've also got a pretty big push button on/off switch with LED that I'm trying to figure out how to put in. :)

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along with the rest of what i said. you can cut out two of the screw posts and get much more room inside the box that way also.

leave two of them in a pattern of top left and bottom right or top right and bottom left.

I may give that a try. Not sure if I can cut them out without destroying the box though. LOL!

I think I could just use some battery connectors and mount them on the sides of the box... looks like the 14500 would fit.

Something like this:

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That would look cool with a digital meter on the side to show what voltage you're vaping at.

I searched pretty hard for one, but couldn't find one that wasn't huge. Anyone know were to get one? I recall seeing a link somewhere for the same one on the vaprlife DVM, but don't recall where I saw it.

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that already seems to save a load of space.

to top the posts you would want a dremel. they have ball tips with spiral cutting blades notched into them. the end of the ball doesn't really do much cutting if even any but that would make quick work of the posts. you could then put that board on the side of those batteries there.

you planning on dropping in rare earth magnets to keep the lid on?

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that already seems to save a load of space.

to top the posts you would want a dremel. they have ball tips with spiral cutting blades notched into them. the end of the ball doesn't really do much cutting if even any but that would make quick work of the posts. you could then put that board on the side of those batteries there.

you planning on dropping in rare earth magnets to keep the lid on?

Time to bust out the ole dremmel. Haven't used that in a long time. I did use some earth magnets, but they are a little small. They're doing the job, but think I'll get some a little bigger. The ones I have are 1/8th inch and actually it into the pre drilled holes on the cover. They hold, but just barely.

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http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-RC-Lipo-battery-Voltage-Indicator-voltmeter-1S-6S-/270621171082?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN

just connect to the two outer posts and it will show you the total. you could connect both batteries to the others and you can see each battery, but not really needed.

i have some others on the way just to see how well they will work out with some ideas.. but they are going to be bigger i think.

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lmao, i'm so not with it today. its the first thing there, how does one miss that?

LOL! Well, it was the first thing I looked for. Wanted to see how it compared in size to the ones I have. :)

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