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Over Discharge and Mechanical Mods


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That's an interesting post. Did the battery go KABOOMY or did it get hot and melt it's surroundings? Did it also have an add on fuse attached? (shortstop, or resettable, or bug,)

Here's an ECF thread I took to heart awhile back, and still consider it of great value.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-issues/254690-protected-batteries-vs-imr-safety.html

(please read every post. Noted is a few blurbs about AW-IMR with a safety fuse...)

Also, here is a FAQ taken from the Battery University: http://vapcentral.blogspot.com/2010/08/battery-faq.html

and Here is the Battery University: http://batteryuniversity.com/

::: off to find some more fun links::::

Edited by Uma
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I'm with Rixter, the only batts I've heard of exploding were where NON-rechargeable batteries were charged (totally blond moment for that person I tell ya), and when 2 batts were stacked but not used in series.

ANY battery is dangerous when fresh off the charger. It's the Vaper's rule to use batteries that are at least an hour off the charger, hopefully more.

With that said, here is what the link you posted said. Copy/pasted for immediate reading:

Current advice

So that is the basic information we have at this date. As a result, the following advice can be given at this time:

  • For ultimate safety, use a single-battery mod.
  • For high-voltage, use a single-battery mod with a booster circuit of some kind.
  • No APV with full electronic control has been implicated so far, so statistically these appear safe. You might want to play safe, though, and consider one with gas vents.
  • Use the best and most expensive batteries you can get. It doesn't seem worth it to economise on batteries. Our opinion is that, at this time, the AW IMR 'red' cell has the best reputation. It is a lithium-manganese 'safer chemistry' cell that does not need the integral protection circuit a Li-ion cell needs. Although these have never been known to explode, no lithium battery, ultimately, is absolutely safe: they will certainly meltdown with plenty of heat and flame if abused; and if they were sealed into a perfectly gastight container, and then made to fail, an explosion might result under those particular conditions.
  • We know that using a two-battery metal tubemod is intrinsically more dangerous because these are where the explosions are.
  • Using such a unit without large gas vents seems to involve the highest risk.
  • You should think very carefully before buying a metal tubemod with no physical safety features.
  • APVs need safety features because nobody really knows what battery they have, you just assume it is what it says on the label. But there are a whole lot more Gucci handbags out there than the factory ever made. Lots of people think they have a Gucci handbag but they don't. So, you may think you have two AW cells, but they could be cheap clones with counterfeit labels. And they might not even be Li-Mn cells: they might just be unprotected Li-ion cells.
  • APVs need safety features because users make mistakes. Everybody makes mistakes. If your safety depends on never making a mistake, then you are not safe.
  • APVs need safety features because the battery condition may be faulty but not have been noticed. Some owners don't even own a meter, so we know this is going to happen in some cases.
  • APVs need safety features because batteries can easily be counterfeit. Fake batteries will be the cheapest sort, and most likely rejects. The label may say 'Tenergy' but no one can tell what it actually is.
  • APVs need physical safety features because electronic ones might fail. That's what electronics does. And according to the most basic law of engineering, it will fail at the worst time in the worst way and in a chain of failures. People who say it can't happen aren't engineers and should not be building consumer products to be used in front of the face.
  • You should think very carefully before buying the cheapest batteries you can get, then stacking them. Especially in a metal tubemod. And especially in one short on safety features.
  • Batteries all have a C Rating. Don't use batteries with a C Rating below 2 amps (2,000mA) as they ARE NOT up to the job.
  • Bigger batteries are safer because they can handle the heavy load an atomizer puts on them. No big battery (i.e. an 18500 or larger) has ever caused an explosion.
  • All batteries can meltdown and cause a fire if faulty and/or abused.
  • DON'T put an APV in your pocket or purse with the atomizer connected or the master switch (if fitted) on; or along with keys and change.
  • Adapters can be treacherous, so be careful - they can short out.

With that said, I bolded a few of the sentences. Of note, is one that I meant to investigate but never did, so with the pleasant reminder to do so, I will do it now. ARNIE, is your mod VENTED? (sorry I never got a chance to take a look at it)

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The link to the burnt IMR photos, takes me to Old Soldiers thread:

Copy/pasted for immediate review:

Please Note:
1. Shorting out a safer-chemistry battery in the pocket or purse can create a fire.
These batteries can supply tens of amps when short-circuited - there is one that can deliver 70 amps.
YOU MUST SWITCH OFF YOUR ECIG USING A MASTER SWITCH OR REMOVE THE CARTO, when putting it away in a purse or pocket.

2. Loose batteries must be placed inside a safe, non-conducting container where nothing can touch the terminals. A metal case is not ideal.

3. All well-known batteries are extensively counterfeited now, and this applies especially to AW and Tenergy. All AW batteries sold on Alibaba are counterfeit. Fake batteries are dangerous.

Me: KNOW YOUR VENDOR!!!!!

RTDVapor rocks!! I only buy from them. There are others too, of course, but I'm paranoid with chronic CRS if I remember right.

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So is it safe to say if your not suppose to use a battery at least an hour after charging is complete does this also apply to ego batteries?

i would say no. She is talking about high discharge IMR batteries. The ones in the eGos arent high output. But if you wanted to err on the side of caution you could alway wait an hour. :)

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Just press the button a few times before attaching your atty/clearo/carto and it should be good to go. We do that anyway, without thinking about it, just to make sure it charged okay and is working okay. One should always err on the side of caution. It doesn't take much to take the edge off a little eGo. :)

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ARNIE, is your mod VENTED? (sorry I never got a chance to take a look at it)

Especially for you Uma, I have snapped these photos of my metal tube mech mod with the protected battery inside along with my (totally redundant) one time vape safe fuse. On top is a Smoktech Pyrex Vivi Nova.

2jc81p5.jpg

9gf0q8.jpg2m5clqx.jpg

You really cannot see any exposed threads and the end cap is not hanging off the bottom. Looks fine.

I tested the resistance of the fuse with my multimeter which gave a resistance reading of 1.0 ohms, however the meter has an internal resistance (checked by touching both probes together) of 1.0 ohms. So effectively no resistance was measured.

I would like to state also that there is no decrease in performance with the fuse in there. Also while the mod doesn't have a locking mechanism as you see in some bottom firing mech mods, the button is quite stiff and is not likely to be activated by accident if in my pocket,

For 17 bucks, its pretty nice and as simple as you can get.They also make a shorty version for use with a single 18350.

Edited by ArnieH
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thats not even a bottom button mod.... its a side button from the looks of it.

this is a bottom button mod:

http://www.vaportekusa.com/product_p/sig-60.htm

so im confused as to what you are referring to as a button lock bc your mod would never have one.

Uma had asked me earlier whether my mod had a master on/off switch. And that brought to mind bottom firing mods that don't have an on/off switch but do have a reverse threaded locking mechanism on the end cap to keep it from firing in your pocket, Sorry if I confused you. Yes, the side mounted button ones don't have any lock. But I have seen button protectors that might work, although I think they were for Egos.

Edited by ArnieH
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Mine do...they have reverse threaded rings that back out to keep the button from getting depressed.

That's cool. Which mod do you have again?

Mine is basically just a battery tube with a 510 connection on top. It's solid, very little button rattle and seems to last forever with my 2900 mAh battery inside. Much better than the plastic Bolt I think. And possibly better than the Bauway torpedo mod. If your on a budget it's not bad.

Edited by ArnieH
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That's cool. Which mod do you have again?

I have three side-firing mech mods. Two of them are Kamry KTS+ and the third is a SmokTech Natural. All three have locking rings.

gallery_15088_188_24289.jpg

I will say that I don't have any side-firing mech mods where the button is at the upper part of the mod (thumb rather than pinky), so I don't really know about those.

Edited by Rixter
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How many mods total rix? :)

Eleven that see daily use, and the missus has a couple, and some more that are loaned out, and the pile of cig-sized batts in a bowl on the night stand...too damn many! :wallbash:

I have a problem, don't I? :cry:

Edited by Rixter
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My Mechanical mods lock too. (turn on/turn off. Lock/unlock).

Both my Roller and my Poldiacs are TOP side button, all mechanical mods.

The Roller locks by turning the knob to the side.

The Poldiac locks by spinning the shirt over the button.

(bad pic, ... both are in 18500 mode and both need the attys adjusted flush and both need fingerprints wiped off)
post-1865-0-07276500-1375117448_thumb.jp

BOTH are Top-sided LOCKABLE buttons.

Edited by Uma
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A little true story: Roughly 3 weeks after receiving my Roller, I sat huddled under a blanket at the Soccer game. My Roller was in tiny 18350 mode, stealth mode, love it in 350 mode!!, and I would stealth vape, nobody the wiser. Hubby brought a snack (hot dog, coffee), so I locked it and pocketed it. After eating, I took it out of pocket to enjoy not only a wonderful satisfying vape, but to use as a hand warmer as well. It wouldn't work!! For the rest of the game, it would not work! My hands were freezing, my nerves were wrecked, I was almost crying. On the way out to the parking lot, still trying to get it to fire, the overhead parking lights caught the button just right... and it dawned on me. It was LOCKED!!! OMG!! What a dummie I was. Needless to say, I enjoyed vaping the rest of the evening and from then on as well. I love my Roller!!

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Poidiac = Nice.......

Oh yes. Glorious mod! It's so strong and sturdy. I bet I could drive a tank over it without hurting it. The threads are buttery smooth, and I often spin the caps just out of fun. A true delight to behold. Absolutely stunning mod, that will last a lifetime. (replacing typical stuff like springs, screws or magnets, of course)

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My Mechanical mods lock too. (turn on/turn off. Lock/unlock).

Both my Roller and my Poldiacs are TOP side button, all mechanical mods.

The Roller locks by turning the knob to the side.

The Poldiac locks by spinning the shirt over the button.

(bad pic, ... both are in 18500 mode and both need the attys adjusted flush and both need fingerprints wiped off)

attachicon.gifbestbuds.jpg

BOTH are Top-sided LOCKABLE buttons.

Nice mods Uma. How much did they run you and where can they be purchased from?

Yes, having a locking feature on a mech mod is great. Wish I had one. But like I say my button is pretty stiff, so it is unlikely to fire in my pocket.

I remember seeing a youtube video about what happened when a guy fell asleep with his mechanical mod. He rolled over on the button in his sleep.

Oh, here it goes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hIHyS5KK6M

Edited by ArnieH
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