FXRich
-
Posts
1,760 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
66
Posts posted by FXRich
-
-
Probably the best way to clean a tank is to use hot water in a sonic cleaner (if you have access to one). I would not recommend the use of a sonic cleaner if you have a painted tank, it removed the paint from one of my tanks.
-
I have a couple of subvods, it happens to me sometimes when I screw the tank on too tight, when I back it off a little it works fine. I think it has to do with the factory coils varying in length, some being a little longer than others.
-
2 hours ago, 6oh4life said:
So I am currently running the V12, and I love the airflow, however I hate how expensive my coils are, as well as how fast I burn through them. I am not fond of tanks that require you to inhale hard, I like very free flowing ones (Like my v12). Does anyone have any recommendations for any smaller, cheaper ones that have similar airflow?
I don't have a V12, but the Subtank minis that I usually use have a airflow that is pretty wide open, there are many tanks that have a lot of airflow and everyone has their own favorite.
RTA, and RDA tanks have the most open airflow in my opinion, but they also require you to build your own coils, or buy pre made coils that you just replace.
-
I think Earthling was right about adding a few drops of water to the tank.
Over a year ago I started to mix a Cherry Cheesecake juice that I really liked, on a good day I could get maybe 2 tanks on a coil (subtank mini with RBA), so I put the recipe on the back burner. A few months ago I started making it again, but instead of using a 70%VG/30%PG ratio I used a 70%VG/20%PG/10% distilled water mix, now I get 4 - 5 tanks on a coil. Can't say for sure why a little water will make the coil last longer, but it does.
-
3 hours ago, Gustavs said:
Hey guys. So I had this X Cube ultramod for around 4-5 months. Bought it brand new. Everything was working perfectly, but then couple of days ago I turned it off and didn't use it for couple of days till today. So today I tried to turn on, but it didn't turn or react anyway. I put it on charge , after couple of hours took it off and still didn't turn on. Anyone can help me with this issue - How to solve it? Recently I had problems with the liquid, it dripped on screen, but nothing happened.
Could be a bad charging cable, or possibly your batteries might not be making contact (juice might cause this) Your best option in my opinion is to take the batteries out, and charge them with a external charger, or maybe try a different charging cable if you have one.
-
2 hours ago, donna68ca said:
I should have made it 70vg/30pg have already added my flavours. How woul I go about fixing this.
You didn't say why you want 70/30 instead of 80/20. I suspect it is because of poor wicking, you could either add 10% more PG, or you could add 5% distilled water either way it would thin the juice without muting the flavor much. The reason I stated 5% water instead of 10% is because water thins it more than PG.
-
8 hours ago, Walt said:
That's interesting. I remember you saying that you used 10% water but I never thought about that might effect the electrical characteristics.
From what I have read on the subject distilled water is a very poor conductor of electricity, some sources even say distilled water won't conduct electricity. Supposedly its the minerals dissolved in water that conduct electricity.
-
2 hours ago, Walt said:
I've been vapin the council at 450 and the Kanger at 475. Last few days I've been liking it kinda hot. I go in phases. Tomorrow I may be back down to 375. I never know.
I notice sometimes vape temp can be a result of the juice that is being vaped. Some flavors like it hotter than others, and I opt to use water instead of extra PG which I think lowers the temp needed to vape. As an example my 70/30 juice consists of 70% VG 20% PG (flavor), and 10% distilled water. I did notice on my dripbox that if the connection isn't good between the tank and pin juice causes the resistance to change, not very much but enough. Usually I go through 2 7ml bottles before I charge the batteries.
-
4 minutes ago, Walt said:
Council of Vapor Wraith and a Kanger Dripbox 160
So how do the two squonk boxes compare, I only have the 160 dripbox, and run the SS TC at 360 - 370 and get the vape that I want. I noticed that all my kanger TC mods run the best at that temp.
-
55 minutes ago, SheVapes said:
Do you have a problem with your coils or having to replace often bc of the high VG content?
I find that the darker juices kill coils faster than the lighter juices, in my opinion VG/PG ratio has little to do with how long a coil lasts, but the addition of water seems to make the coils last longer.
If you ever decide to flavor your juice, I know someone who has a reaction to PG so she mixes her own using extracts from the grocery store, some extracts contain PG so she has to read the labels really good, but it seems to work for her.
-
1 hour ago, cany said:
OkI did the 4 wrap coil Im not getting nearly as much flavor as I did with my NI build
Got to keep trying different coils until you find the best one for you. The only kanthal I tried using the subtank mini RBA was 26 g I think I tried 5 wraps around 3mm, can't remember what the ohms was, but it wasn't that great so I went to 28g SS 316, and got what I wanted.
The only thing I use kanthal for now is rebuilding OCC coils, and it works well for that.
Another difference is I haven't used cotton for over a year now, I use rayon (cellucotton), other people will probably disagree with me, but I think it has a cleaner taste, wicks better, and doesn't taste as nasty if you burn it.
-
52 minutes ago, SheVapes said:
Hi :)) I'm new here. I have been vaping disposable ecigs that ship from south central FL, needless to say it was some time before they could fill orders (Irma was a b*tch. I'm in NE FL, and glad I didn't get hit worse than I did. That was a scary storm btw). ..... back to topic, So I stopped at my local vape shop and purchased a pen. I'm happy about making this switch. I like knowing what's in the juice I'm vaping vs a made in China disposable), and happy about being more earth friendly too! Win.Win.
I want to mix 100% VG e juice w/ 10mg nicotine / no flavor... please check my recipe to make sure I have this right.
1 mL nicotine (from 100mg nicotine in VG base)
9 mL distilled water *has anyone tried using RO water instead of distilled? Should I increase the amount of water?*
90 mL VG
= 100 mL unflavored vape juice with 1.0% or 10mg of nicotine
-------
right now I have the Endura T18 / complete vaping system, and I'm vaping flavorless 50/50. and this works well. but I want to eliminate the PG bc I think I have a sensitivity to it.
I understand that 100 VG is killer on the coil. *Can you recommend a complete system that is simple and easy to use, charge, and vape that would handle the 100% VG?*
TIA! have a wonderful day!
If you want a 10mg final result you will need to add 10 ml of 100mg base, there are non PG flavorings available that use a water/alcohol base.
I use 10% distilled water in my recipes, we have a well, and I'm not sure whats in it so I don't use it. Most city tap water has chemicals in it that probably are not good to vape. Distilled water only costs about $1 per gallon, and has nothing in it but pure water.
-
-
Just now, Walt said:
Yup, it does that, lol. When the black starts flaking off I replace it unless I already have because I want to try something different. I've brushed a couple of them with a mini wire brush but can't get all the way around of course. I'm not into the dry burn cleaning method.
Some stoves use SS heating elements, and it doesn't bother them when they turn black, they work for years that way. I have replaced the pipes on my bike with SS pipes, and they haven't turned black, but they are probably a different SS alloy, and they don't get as hot as a heating coil.
-
Just now, cgage99 said:
I don't get much vapor on exhale with my eliquid .what do i need to look for to get the plumes?
High VG content will usually give more vapor, but that depends on the tank you have, and what coils you use. Some coils have a problem wicking high VG juice, I use a 70VG 30PG mix and get thick enough clouds for me, some people use 80-85% VG.
-
There is one thing I don't like about using SS 316, after it gets hot it turns black, but it still works the same as when its bright and shiny. I guess its just me liking it to stay new looking. Even after running it through the sonic cleaner it still stays black.
-
Just now, cany said:
Thank you Sir
When I rebuild a Subtank mini RBA I use 6 wraps of 28g SS 316, and get about .7 ohm coils, so far that has worked the best for me using TC.
-
Just now, cany said:
Thanks Rich I wanna put the build on the Kanger subtank mini deck
You will probably get about 1 ohm, the legs are shorter on the RBA deck.
-
1 hour ago, cany said:
Which one lol
I use 4 wraps of 28g kanthal around 3mm when I build replacement coils for my kanger OCC coils, and get about1.2 ohms, but the legs are pretty long, depends on leg length. That's with a spaced coil.
-
4 hours ago, Earthling789 said:
I have three mods that are painted that haven't chipped, peeled, or faded their coating... One is a Kanger 50W (white) and the other two are Cloupor mini-plus (orange and royal blue).
I also have a 50w Kanger that hasn't lost any paint except on the bottom (it is black) the newer kanger 75w and 120w have both lost paint, the rest are SS or polished metal of some kind, and still look like I just took them out of the box.
-
That is the main reason I have only bought unpainted mods in the last few years. In my opinion about the only paint that would hold up to the use that a mod gets is to get it powder coated, and that would require complete disassembly, powder coating is an expensive process, may be cheaper to buy a new mod. I learned to live with the mods I have that the paint came off.
-
15 minutes ago, Walt said:
I'm sure you're right. I've got a side airflow atty on order. So far however I haven't had it leaking. Been squonking pretty lightly though. I'm sure I'll get lax, give it a good squeeze at some point and have a flood. The airflow tubes are not too long in the thing.
I use a modified RTA on top of my squonker, when I squeeze the bottle it fills the tank on the RTA. Kind of defeats the purpose of the idea, but I like it, and it works for me.
-
2 hours ago, Walt said:
The final frontier. The obscure world of the squonker. Shown here with a modified 22mm Tsunami (BF pin from a 24mm Tsunami).
Been my experience the RDAs with bottom air tend to leak if squonked too much, tried the exact same setup, except the mod was different, Juice leaked out the air intake slots, in my opinion tanks with the air intake at the top work much better for squonking.
-
Just now, Walt said:
I'm going back in that direction next time around if they're still available. I get plenty of face time every day with computers and I just don't use the cell much at all. I also keep an ipad for controlling my monitors during performances and there is a lot of redundancy there as well.
My phone costs me $17 and change every month for 300 minutes, I rarely use over 100 minutes a month, and they carry over a certain amount. Just have it for emergencies and stuff like that, I even ignore texts.
Tanks with high airflow
in Tanks, Clearomizers & Drop in Coils
Posted
From what I read in your original post you use the V12 as with any of the beast tanks from what I have heard are not designed to be used with TC they have kanthal coils, and probably too many coils for TC to properly function.