drizzt
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Posts posted by drizzt
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just wondering how many of you prefer temp control over wattage?
I am fairly new to tc but so far don't like it as well as regular wattage mode. I am not sure if I just haven't found the sweet spot or if temp control is not for me.
where does your preference lie?
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Personally I would get a set or two of the 25Rs and if you want to really blow clouds, or turn it up past 120 or 140 watts or so throw in a set of HB6's. I if you are running that high, you will get a longer cell life out of the HB6's and they will run much cooler.
I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but when you have a dual battery mod you must marry the batteries. In other words they 2 batteries stay to gather for life. I label them 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B etc. When you use them always do the the same to one as you do the other. Charge them at the same time, fully. When you put them back in the mod, swap the A and B location. This ensures that they wear evenly. If one battery will not take a charge, or seems to be going bad, divorce them. Some people say recycle them both, but I will just start using the remaining good one in a single battery mod, and buy a new set to run in the dual battery mod. I actually have 3 sets I run in my ipv 3 and they have lasted a long time. I really don't use it much. I keep it by my chair with a "special juice" in it that I only use sparingly. I have a velocity or TFV4 on it and I normally run it in the 100+ watt range. I could run 25R's in it, but I have 2 sets of VTC 4's and a set of HB6's that I need to use and I might want to really crank it up.
I do know to marry and label the batteries. I actually do that with all rechargeable batteries regardless of what they go in.
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They are just different batteries with vastly different specifications. The VTC batteries were never intended to be single cells. They were designed to be used in packs. There is quite a few different specification sheets on the internet, and they contain contradictory information. Independent testing (and using the best versions of the manufacturers spec. sheets) most have settled on the the following specifications:
VTC3 - Sony's specs say 30A continuous discharge and 1500 mah. Most tests prove that the VTC3 can handle 30A continuous, but at a cost, shorter cell life. It reaches 89 degrees C. It works great for vaping though because it is not a continuous discharge, and it handles it better than most.
VTC4 - Sony's specs say 30A* continuous discharge and 2100 mah. There are quite a few spec sheet that show this as a 30A cell, but there are also Sony spec sheets that say it is a 20A battery, and to get 30A you must use active cooling and protection above 30A. We do know from testing that the VTC4 is probably one of the most versatile cells out there. It will work in our application up to 30A with no problem. In continuous discharge it got close to 100C which will seriously degrade the battery. We don't use in this manner, so it works fine up to 30A.
VTC5 - Sony's specs say 20A continuous discharge and 2600 mah. This is a true 20A battery, no more. In fact at 20A it gets hotter than a 25R.
I personally will not be buying any more Sony batteries (never say never..lol). Too many questions. I have the HB6's if I want to go over 30A. They are cheap. I can get them for less than $5.00 each and feel confident I am safe. At 30A continuous it only reached 76 degrees C. You will need quite a few, because at only 1500 mah, they don't last long. I am waiting on some HD2's to replace my aging VTC4's when they go. They will fill the 25A range. I really don't vape in this range. For my daily use, I will run the 25R's, HG2's, and 30Q's, I also have some HE2's and HE4's.
i don't vape all that much compared to most I do it as a hobby not to quit smoking (I don't smoke) so realistically I could probably go with a higher amp lower mah battery and charge daily if needed if it is a safer better option. What are your thoughts. I don't mind paying a little more for the best battery for my application. My other thought is buying both a set of 25 r and a second set of VTC3 or hb6
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I third the ipv3Li or the ipvD2. I am not sold on the new Sigelei/Snowwolf chip. I have the 50 watt version, and it is not as refined as the YiHi chips (as in the ipv's)
If you are using it at 110 watts or lower, Samsung 25R or LG HE2/HE4 are the most economical, but the LG HG2 will last longer.
If yo are at 150 - 170 watts the Sony VTC 4 or LG HD2 would be the safest choices, but will not last nearly as long.
Over 170 LG HB6 or Sony VTC 3.
Here is a couple good sources for batteries, I have always got good batteries, and service:
or
I agree with squid on the charger, the LUCV4 is a great charger, the Xtar VC4 is also good, or the VPC4. The nitecore is also a solid charger, but it is a bit slow.
just out of curiosity what makes the vtc 3 a better choice over vtc 4 or vtc5? I am not sure I understand the batteries that well so I rely on others such as you with much more knowledge.
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On a separate note how much more are you guys willing to pay for a particular color of a mod. For example the place I like to shop online has the best price on the ipv but they only have Black I think I want silver. If I buy elsewhere I'll pay more so again how much more is the particular color you want worth
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I third the ipv3Li or the ipvD2. I am not sold on the new Sigelei/Snowwolf chip. I have the 50 watt version, and it is not as refined as the YiHi chips (as in the ipv's)
If you are using it at 110 watts or lower, Samsung 25R or LG HE2/HE4 are the most economical, but the LG HG2 will last longer.
If yo are at 150 - 170 watts the Sony VTC 4 or LG HD2 would be the safest choices, but will not last nearly as long.
Over 170 LG HB6 or Sony VTC 3.
Here is a couple good sources for batteries, I have always got good batteries, and service:
or
I agree with squid on the charger, the LUCV4 is a great charger, the Xtar VC4 is also good, or the VPC4. The nitecore is also a solid charger, but it is a bit slow.
thanks for the in depth info. I am going to get the 25 r batteries as I wont go over 110 watts at this point probably not even close to that. If I ever get to the point where I want higher wattage I will get another set of another from your list. Thank youn
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I'll second the look and feel of the IPV3-Li, and if you don't need/want 165W (dual 18650's), the IPV-D2 is small, compact (single 18650), and still does 75W and TC. Another good choice (although I don't have either) is the Cloupor mini-plus (50W TC) or Cloupor mini-GT (80W TC). I've had great luck with my Cloupor minis, and don't hesitate to recommend the brand
I've been off and on about buying a higher Wattage mod myself, but even when using my Arctic Tank @ 0.2 Ohms, I'm rarely running more than 45W, and can't remember going above 65W... so for me, anything that provides up to 70W is just fine. My daily tanks are rarely pushed above 20W (most are 12-15W).
I think the ipv is probably the way I will go. While I don't post very much, I do follow the forum enough to know both you and tug are two people whos vaping opinion I respect and pretty much take for being the best advice someone could ask for. If you both say ipv that is good enough for me.
now to pick batterys. what is your opinion on those. I do know to keep the pair married and label etc but what is your pick for best battery for this mod.
on another note do you recommend a certain battery charger
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so sigelei or ipv whats your choice? I am looking at the sigelei tc model if that makes any difference. not sure I will use the temp control but it will be nice to have in case I decide to i guess
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I have been using an istick 50 watt that just crapped out on me yesterday so I need to replace it. I due have a rda but almost always use my arctic tank with a .2 coil, vaping at 50 watts. I think If I am buying another mod I should step up to something bigger . I may start using my rda more often. I have been looking at a snow wolf 200 watt the ipv ti and the sigelei 150 tc all may be overkill for me but it may prevent me from having to buy another mod if I max out power. are any of these a better choice than the others or should I consider something else entirely? I don't really want to break the bank but the price of these three are not a deterrent
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Congrats Mirage!
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This could be a dangerous drink. it tastes a lot like rootbeer with a touch of vanilla. I feel like if your not careful the alcohol could sneak up on you, doesn't have an alcohol taste. I am a beer drinker but will definitely put a couple of these down now and then for a sweet treat.This is also the first beer my wife has ever ever liked enough to take more than one single sip of and I have had her try hundreds of different kinds.
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I read this post and ran right out to buy some. got it chilling in the fridge will give an update on what I think in a bit.
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I haven't tried any of comps flavors. but think hydras delight would be the one I would most like to try.
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Just an update. my buddy is now vaping a regulated istick and targets his builds at .5 ohms or above. I have him checking every build and also periodically checking the coils after using for a couple of days making sure there are no big changes.
He and I have differing thoughts on what vaping should be (he wants huge clouds and decent flavor, I want huge flavor and decent clouds) but at least we can all be safe.
Thanks for the input everybody
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I get heartburn from vaping but it seems to only be with menthol juices. I could be wrong as I do have gastritis and get heartburn very regularly so I may be noticing a connection that is not there.
My only other side effect if you will is I can taste things better and more intense then before, which would make sense If i smoked before I started vaping but I did not so it is kind unusual.
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very rotten egg
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Well earthling, It sounds to me as though mixing the juices for the people around you is not something you really want to do. If that is the case I say you just tell them it is not something you do for other people and you have no intent to.
I feel like vaping is something we do as a form of enjoyment and once you start having to make it a chore it loses something. To me it is either keep your habbit/hobby as fulfilling as it can be or just go all in and make it a true business like compenstine.
If i am misreading your thoughts I do apologize.
I can imagine if I were mixing my own juices I would enjoy my friends filling their tanks and giving me input on my juices but I would not enjoy attempting making them flavors they want as I am sure there are far more qualified people to fulfill their desires.
Again I am not trying to be disrespectful to you or your friends/family just putting an opinion out there.
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I just ordered the freakshow. I got in my I stick 50w . I also ordered yet another multi meter to have around as another reference point.
I am now debating between the russian 91%, the kanger subtank mini and the delta 2 with rebuild deck. I am not in a huge rush for any of the tanks as I will have my hands full with learning the whole rebuild thing and triple checking myself for safety.
The help on this forum is pretty amazing.
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Its been a long Winter and she didnt wanna start right away
But after a jump she fired right up and purreddddd like a kitten 
Hoping to get mine out next weekend if the weather is good. Sure has been a long tuff winter in New England
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Do you happen to have a link to the yiloong clones? How do they compare to the real deal.I found authentic 91% v2's for $50 on sale seems like a good price. But if the clones are good cheaper is better
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I have the Freakshow and it's a great RDA. I can get enough juice on the wick and in the well to last at least as long as a cigarette would so dripping is not too much of a PITA. It's also authentic and can be had for about 30 bucks.
the only complaint i hear is leaking due to the bottom air chambers. how much do you experience? The flavor is supposed to be pretty amazing though so that is why It is on my list. Thanks for the input
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Kudos for already having a meter!
For RDA, I like my Magma, and the Stillare isn't bad. As long as the posts are strong and have decent size openings for wire... and the juice-well is capable of holding more than a couple drops, you should be good with most any RDA. Oh, and more air-flow is a good thing, especially if you plan to go below 0.5 Ohms.
For an RTA, you likely won't be sub-ohming it... I like mine in the 1.3-1.6 Ohm range for best flavor. I really love my Russian 91% and always recommend the Russian and Kayfun Lite-Plus as a good starter RTA. The Orchid is a beast for flavor and vapor, but it is dual-coil with high air-flow, which also means it chugs the juice. The Kayfun V4 is a good one too, but I'd recommend getting the Infinite clone over a Tobeco or no-name. I have an Infinite and Amod clone, and both are very well made. The only issue is the spring, which can be upgraded or stretched for better performance/connectivity.
I actually have both an ohm meter just for coils and a digital multimeter. I am a little bit of a tinkerer and my father in law is an electronics engineer so we are always working on something.
As for the russian 91% how is the vapor production? On the reviews I have seen people seem to love them but it looks as yhough the amount of vapor is much less than some of the competition. I guess flavor is more important to me but I would still like good amounts of cloud if possible.
If I do opt for the russian I will probably have to wait on the rda as I don't want my wife to murder me for spending too much on my new hobby. Between a new istick 50 and a russian 91% I will be near the top of what will go unchecked so to speak.
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I do have an ohm meter. also with the istick being regulated and having another built in meter I would think between those three things I will be alright. I do not plan to push the limits of anything I am a fairly cautious person with most things. The meter was the first thing I bought even before the thought of re- buildables
tc or wattage mode
in Variable Voltage & Wattage
Posted
what settings do you use as far as temp/joules or whats