Earthling789

I started with Ce4's, which are top-loading... When I got my first bottom coil tank, I took it apart, cleaned it, etc.... then fully assembled it and paused for a moment... I got a good chuckle at myself for holding the drip-tip in my hand, thinking... nope, this ain't gonna work

When you're use to one type, another style will throw you off for a moment. I hate to admit this, but I was helping a friend with their starter a few weeks ago and caught myself trying to remove the bottom of their Ce4 before I realized... oh, yeah... top-loader!

Blonde-moments DO happen

MVP comes with a charger which connects to USB port, so if you want to charge from the wall outlet, you will need to buy a AC-to-DC 5V USB converter... you can usually pick them up anywhere for a couple bucks... even next to the candy-bars at Walmart...



Spinners and other eGo-style require a special charge adapter which screws onto the end of the battery and has usb on the other end. Sometimes they'll come with them (like when you buy kits), but it never hurts to have a couple of spares, especially if you own more than two or three of this type of battery.



VT store can set you up... and at good prices for quality... https://www.vaportalkstore.com/ecig-Chargers-s/1828.htm

The EVOD is a plastic tank... it could be the tank has cracked from a harsh juice (Cinnamon, mints, citrus, menthol, etc.) and the leakage is simply because the tank can no longer hold a vacuum to maintain pressure equilibrium? EVODs are a one-piece design, so any fracture will render them unusable. Luckily, they are also cheap to replace.... If you're going to vape a juice that might damage a plastic tank, it's best to invest in Pyrex and stainless-steel tanks. If you like the EVOD size/shape, you'll also like these from Kanger: KPT2-mini, KPT3-mini, AeroTank-mini, or EVOD2-glass. Of those I listed, only the KPT2-mini will use the same single-coils as your EVOD, though.

Tam and Comp are spot on as well... I've had coils work loose and leak, and had brand new coils leak within an hour or two of installing them. Genuine coils, knock-offs, rebuilds... any and all can and will leak... given enough time

I had a coil go south in a KPT2 tonight, and it flooded the base, leaking out of the air-holes... ugg, what a mess! Normally, I'll check under the coil when I'm filling a tank, and a little swab with TP or a paper towel corner makes quick work of the occasional drip. But, tonight's mess required a bit more "thorough" cleaning

Now, even with that leakage disaster tonight... nothing made it onto the body of my MVP, and NONE of the juice entered the battery by oozing past the center pin! This is the number one reason I use AeroBases on all my KPT2's. Killing one battery was enough to convince me of their value

I had a coil go south in a KPT2 tonight, and it flooded the base, leaking out of the air-holes... ugg, what a mess! Normally, I'll check under the coil when I'm filling a tank, and a little swab with TP or a paper towel corner makes quick work of the occasional drip. But, tonight's mess required a bit more "thorough" cleaning

Now, even with that leakage disaster tonight... nothing made it onto the body of my MVP, and NONE of the juice entered the battery by oozing past the center pin! This is the number one reason I use AeroBases on all my KPT2's. Killing one battery was enough to convince me of their value

Looks like you rescued it from a sunken ship in the ocean!

By pure chance, today marks 4-months since my last analog! My last physical (three weeks ago) shows me to be in FAR better physical condition than I was in February, and my wallet is a tiny bit fatter by saving 80% over the cost of analogs (compared to vaping). My doctor said my lung capacity has more than doubled... like growing another lung... and my bronchial wheezing (and cough) has completely vanished. My blood tests show "healthy" numbers normally seen in a 20-yr old. I've even lost a few pounds, too! I use to have issues just walking to the mailbox or a walk to the car in a long parking lot, but now I feel I can do back-flips all the way there and back (or at least jog the distance). A few weeks ago, I did a 12-mile hike with my sons and didn't feel the need for an ambulance or Oxygen tank... I felt like I could do another 12-miles (and the 23-yr-old was worn out)....

So, yes, smoking is polluting your body with hundreds if not thousands of toxins/carcinogens... The jury is still out on what long-term issues we'll suffer from vaping. The ingredients in juices are perfectly safe, but nobody knows for sure what happens at a molecular level when you burn them into an aerosol. That being said... in my book vaping is the ONLY successful method for me to quit analogs, and a far safer (and cheaper) method than Chantix, patches, etc... Remember also that nicotine is not the enemy... nicotine occurs naturally in nearly every fruit or vegetable you eat (albeit much smaller doses)

Looks like you rescued it from a sunken ship in the ocean!

I think you're getting it, lol...

Wattage is the measure of power Amps is the measure of current Voltage is the measure of electricity (in DC) Ohms is the measure of resistance of the coil
They all work in concert, based on the ratios prescribed by Ohm's Law:

Voltage = Current * Resistance Power (watts) = Voltage * Current
A static battery or a replaceable battery are no different, as their "life" is based primarily on charge capacity, measured in Milli-Amp-Hours (mAh). A 2600mAh battery has twice the capacity (life) of a 1300mAh battery... which means the bigger battery will last longer (up to twice) than the smaller one.

As for "complicated"... THAT comes into play when you're using a mechanical MOD and building your own coils. But, using a factory, 1.5-3.0 Ohm coil in a tank should be little issue for virtually any static, 3.7V battery!

Well, the term "mod" came from the original builds which were cobbled together from other pieces and parts... such as "modifying" a flashlight to handle a head with 510 threads, rather than a "bulb"... but the general consensus is, if the battery comes out, it's a MOD Many will also refer to an MVP or VV-V3 as a MOD, because they are variable voltage and/or wattage devices (I'm guilty of this too, sometimes, lol)... but they are sealed-battery devices.

You are correct... a MOD (mechanical MOD) does require a bit of knowledge of electricity, especially Ohm's Law, but if using factory coils with a tank (like an Aspire or Kanger) it's not much different than using a standard, static-voltage eGo. When you move up to building your own coils... Safety and Ohm's Law knowledge REALLY comes into play, because you tend to move well outside the sweet-spot of factory coil resistances (sub-ohms) because the battery can generally handle it.

Well, the term "mod" came from the original builds which were cobbled together from other pieces and parts... such as "modifying" a flashlight to handle a head with 510 threads, rather than a "bulb"... but the general consensus is, if the battery comes out, it's a MOD Many will also refer to an MVP or VV-V3 as a MOD, because they are variable voltage and/or wattage devices (I'm guilty of this too, sometimes, lol)... but they are sealed-battery devices.

You are correct... a MOD (mechanical MOD) does require a bit of knowledge of electricity, especially Ohm's Law, but if using factory coils with a tank (like an Aspire or Kanger) it's not much different than using a standard, static-voltage eGo. When you move up to building your own coils... Safety and Ohm's Law knowledge REALLY comes into play, because you tend to move well outside the sweet-spot of factory coil resistances (sub-ohms) because the battery can generally handle it.

"MOD" by definition is one that takes a replaceable battery. Anything that takes an 18650 will be in the 1" diameter size, minimum, because the first two numbers determine the diameter of the battery, last set of numbers determine the length... A tube-mod that takes an 18xxx battery will be 22mm diameter (24.5mm = 1") at a bare minimum. The vast majority of MODs are mechanical, which means no circuitry, no regulation, no VV or VW capabilities. Now, there are some like the Innokin VTR or Tesla (VV) that are... but something like a Magneto is purely mechanical.

If you're wanting VV/VW, and still small, eGo-ish, perhaps you might find an Innokin VV V3 to your liking? If you want a rock-solid box-style, I highly recommend the Innokin MVP 2.0! If you just want VV, any of the 1100mAh or larger spinners/twists from Joyetech, Vision or Kanger will do very well (and what many of us here use daily as a go-to battery). I suggest the larger mAh VV batteries because they last longer and tend to be a little larger diameter than the 14mm standard eGo size.

"MOD" by definition is one that takes a replaceable battery. Anything that takes an 18650 will be in the 1" diameter size, minimum, because the first two numbers determine the diameter of the battery, last set of numbers determine the length... A tube-mod that takes an 18xxx battery will be 22mm diameter (24.5mm = 1") at a bare minimum. The vast majority of MODs are mechanical, which means no circuitry, no regulation, no VV or VW capabilities. Now, there are some like the Innokin VTR or Tesla (VV) that are... but something like a Magneto is purely mechanical.

If you're wanting VV/VW, and still small, eGo-ish, perhaps you might find an Innokin VV V3 to your liking? If you want a rock-solid box-style, I highly recommend the Innokin MVP 2.0! If you just want VV, any of the 1100mAh or larger spinners/twists from Joyetech, Vision or Kanger will do very well (and what many of us here use daily as a go-to battery). I suggest the larger mAh VV batteries because they last longer and tend to be a little larger diameter than the 14mm standard eGo size.

No, the dual-coils are taller and won't fit properly (too tall from base to bottom of center-tube of tank). The PT3 is exactly like the PT2, but designed for dual-coils... and then there's the AeroTank... which is a slightly different "industrial" look, but essentially the same as a PT3, with the addition of an Air Flow Control base.

Jeff, I stand corrected... I wasn't looking at my Amp-chart when I posted the info

Tam... hope this helps to explain it quick-and-dirty:

Lower resistance coils produce higher Wattage. Higher Wattage draws more Amps from the battery (to produce those Wattages). Therefore, using a 1.5 or 1.8 Ohm coil will produce much better vapor, but will run down the battery slightly faster than a 2.0 or 2.2 Ohm coil. (I had it backwards).

Yes, the 16d has a replaceable BDC (bottom dual-coil). You can buy more and just swap them as the old one goes bad. For a glass tank, I highly recommend the Kanger ProTank2 (single coil) or AeroTank (dual-coil) They are larger capacity than your current Innokin, but still fit the Spinner via 510 threads. If you want smaller, slimmer tanks, I suggest the ProTank 2-mini (single coil), or a dual-coil unit like the ProTank3-mini or EVOD2-Glass. Aspire Nautilus (and the new mini) is also a highly recommended Pyrex tank, and the Anyvape Daivde and mini versions are also really good (although I don't own one). There are others, but those are my recommendations.

As for battery, you can't beat a good Spinner or Spinner2, as well as the Kanger or JoyeTech VV versions, too. If you want something a bit bigger, the Innokin MVP 2.0 (box-style VV/VW MOD) is rock-solid and will last a couple or three days before needing a recharge.

Welcome to GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome)

I agree... on a static-3.7V battery (ego or MOD), I prefer 1.5 or 1.8 coils in my Kanger tanks... I get a good vape, good flavor, and extended battery life (compared to higher resistance coils).

But on a VW battery, setting a specific Wattage, will not matter what coil resistance you select, as long as it is not too low or too high for the circuitry to adjust Voltage to maintain the Wattage selected (based on the chart above).

As you can see, a 1.2 Ohm coil on an MVP, cannot operate below 9.5W or above 3.63V (at 11W), as any higher or lower setting will be outside the operational parameters of the battery's circuitry / protection limits.

Using a 1.2 Ohm coil and setting the Wattage at 8.0W, and the battery will auto-default to the closest operational limit, which is 9.08W @ 3.3V (minimum operational Voltage setting) or 9.5W @ 3.38V (minimum operational Wattage setting), based on the coil resistance.

Incorrect... Higher resistance coils draw more Amps to fire the coil, per Ohm's Law.

For example, a 2.5 Ohm coil cannot be fired at a Wattage higher than 10W because of the 5.0V limitation on the MVP, as this maximizes the output. But, a 1.5 Ohm coil at 10W will only be firing at 3.9V, thus drawing fewer Amps, and depleting the battery slower.

Think of resistance in terms of weight... and you're the battery... It's easier to lift a lighter weight, longer, than it is to lift a heavy weight... both will exhaust you, but the heavier one will do so much faster.

On a VW MOD, the Wattage is set, and will be achieved (up to a limit), regardless of the coil resistance used. The MOD only varies the Voltage to achieve the Wattage selected. There is no increased output, only savings to your battery life by using a lower resistance coil.

Now, a lower resistance coil can achieve a higher Wattage (up to 11W limit), whereas a higher resistance coil (over 2.3 Ohms) will max out the Voltage limiter before reaching the 11W limit, due to the increased resistance. Here's a chart to show the relationship between Wattage selection and Coil choice, and the Voltage required for those settings:

Bebop hit it...

I don't use Aspire tanks/coils, but those I know, who do, get anywhere from a week to three weeks out of a single coil, and daily vaping on that single tank/coil combo. So, figure a 5-pack of coils to last you anywhere from 5-15 weeks. Even at the median of 10 weeks per box, that's $1.60/week... or about the cost of a large coffee from McDonald's!

I started vaping on April Fools Day this year, and yes, you can invest some serious $ on equipment if you allow yourself I know for a fact that I over-spent on tanks, batteries, VV/VW MOD, juice, juice, more juice, and stockpiling coils in the first two months! But, once you have a few batteries and tanks, you're only real expense to maintain vaping, is coils and juice. Currently, my weekly expense for juice is about what I spent for a day of analogs!

Even with my initial over-spending on equipment, my total vaping expense (today) is well under half what I would have spent on smoking for the same period, and I feel 50x better than I did in March So, it was worth every penny spent, and double-worth every penny saved!

Congrats and Welcome!

Vaping works, and as Fishguy said, everyone has their own story to tell and method/equipment-choice which works for them. Some can make the switch on day one, some can't, and it's okay! Sometimes (like TX's wife) you just hit the right flavor and never look back. As Tam suggested, use the search tool and feel free to ask questions... we all have opinions!!

Oh, BTW, the VT store has fantastic prices and excellent equipment and juices... check that out, too!

I agree... on a static-3.7V battery (ego or MOD), I prefer 1.5 or 1.8 coils in my Kanger tanks... I get a good vape, good flavor, and extended battery life (compared to higher resistance coils).

But on a VW battery, setting a specific Wattage, will not matter what coil resistance you select, as long as it is not too low or too high for the circuitry to adjust Voltage to maintain the Wattage selected (based on the chart above).

As you can see, a 1.2 Ohm coil on an MVP, cannot operate below 9.5W or above 3.63V (at 11W), as any higher or lower setting will be outside the operational parameters of the battery's circuitry / protection limits.

Using a 1.2 Ohm coil and setting the Wattage at 8.0W, and the battery will auto-default to the closest operational limit, which is 9.08W @ 3.3V (minimum operational Voltage setting) or 9.5W @ 3.38V (minimum operational Wattage setting), based on the coil resistance.

Incorrect... Higher resistance coils draw more Amps to fire the coil, per Ohm's Law.

For example, a 2.5 Ohm coil cannot be fired at a Wattage higher than 10W because of the 5.0V limitation on the MVP, as this maximizes the output. But, a 1.5 Ohm coil at 10W will only be firing at 3.9V, thus drawing fewer Amps, and depleting the battery slower.

Think of resistance in terms of weight... and you're the battery... It's easier to lift a lighter weight, longer, than it is to lift a heavy weight... both will exhaust you, but the heavier one will do so much faster.

On a VW MOD, the Wattage is set, and will be achieved (up to a limit), regardless of the coil resistance used. The MOD only varies the Voltage to achieve the Wattage selected. There is no increased output, only savings to your battery life by using a lower resistance coil.

Now, a lower resistance coil can achieve a higher Wattage (up to 11W limit), whereas a higher resistance coil (over 2.3 Ohms) will max out the Voltage limiter before reaching the 11W limit, due to the increased resistance. Here's a chart to show the relationship between Wattage selection and Coil choice, and the Voltage required for those settings:

I didn't think I'd like a box-style either, but once I got my MVP (little smaller than VTR), I immediately loved it... It fits well in your hand, and stands upright on the desk without needing a stand, or fear of falling over if you bump the desk. It also has the ability to charge your phone or MP3 player from the battery pack in an emergency, which works VERY well! I like it so well, the VTR will be my next battery/MOD purchase

For a round, tube-unit, have you looked at the Provari or Tesla VV/VW models?

Does she have a sister?? LOL

No, the dual-coils are taller and won't fit properly (too tall from base to bottom of center-tube of tank). The PT3 is exactly like the PT2, but designed for dual-coils... and then there's the AeroTank... which is a slightly different "industrial" look, but essentially the same as a PT3, with the addition of an Air Flow Control base.