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Lost on what to do next. (Tank/Rebuildable)


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Hey people,

The issue I'm having is that my Kanger is leaking like crazy. I want a tank/rebuildable that is either fully metal, or Pyrex. Drippers seem like a pain, and I really like not having to worry about keeping a wick wet on top.

I'm currently running a VAMO V2 with a Kanger Pro-Tank 2, and I'm allergic to PG, so I use 100% VG.

Does anyone have any ideas on an easy tank/rebuildable for my situation?

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Mmmmm, just real quick. First off, I'm assuming it's just one Pro Tank that is leaking? You've double checked seals, o rings, coils, etc.?

Secondly - um, well, have you started looking up information on HOW to rebuild, what you need - especially an ohmmeter - to do it safely, to do it at all, etc. We need a starting point to start the advice.

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Try the ProTank3 or the Aspire BDC. They're both massive improvements from the PT2 and the dual coils work better with thicker juices.

The Tatroe tanks (http://www.cigtechs.com/Tatroe-Mods_c_66.html) are a good upgrade for the PT2 coil, albeit long and heavy. Thats about as good as the industry gets right now before jumping into rebuilding. I'm currently using a vamo5 + Aspire BDC at home and an ego twist+miniPTIIv2 in my pocket and I usually vape maxVG.

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Try the ProTank3 or the Aspire BDC. They're both massive improvements from the PT2 and the dual coils work better with thicker juices.

The Tatroe tanks (http://www.cigtechs.com/Tatroe-Mods_c_66.html) are a good upgrade for the PT2 coil, albeit long and heavy. Thats about as good as the industry gets right now before jumping into rebuilding. I'm currently using a + Aspire BDC at home and an ego twist+miniPTIIv2 in my pocket and I usually vape maxVG.

You realize the Tatroe tank is just a SS body that goes on a protank base and uses protank heads right? Nothing as good as it gets there.

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Proteus, SS body? Does that mean stainless steel?

FiveFifteen, I could be wrong - and if I am, someone will correct me - but I don't think thicker juices will cause leaking. Thicker juices can cause flavor wicks in single Kanger coils to not necessarily wick fast enough (I've not had the issue, but others have), but I don't know what effect it will have on dual coils, and whether dual coils even have flavor wicks.

As far as me, I'm not sure I like the Aspire. At least for the Aspire, you seem to have to like a much warmer vape. Flavor wise - well, I'll have to try out a different flavor on the second tank, as the first tank I probably didn't choose the best flavor to try with first.

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when i had my Tatroe Tank the only way i could tell it was getting low and needing filled as at around 1/4 of a tank it would start to get the McGurgles. Every time, was weird. It is a solid tank however, extremely well made and heavy.

Edited by Proetus
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Well here's the thing, it's leaking through the coil... I don't get it. It's leaking directly onto my battery and into my mouth as well.

What I don't get, is that I'm using thicker juices, so leaking is the LAST thing that should be happening.

I've got the Vamo, so I would just use that to measure the ohms on the rebuildable. And I'll have to look into the Aspire. As for now, I'm done with Kanger. I love everything about the protank 2, but it's just so annoying to keep it upside down all the time with tp shoved in it.

And I appreciate you guys throwing all the options out there. I'm still trying to find something that can use acidic juices and be relatively easy.

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Oh, and I've watched youtube how to rebuild. I've watched a PT2 coil rebuild and a rebuildable that had a long wick wrapped around the posts, which were at the bottom on the tank.

I understand you need a torch, cotton/silica, and either mesh or wire. I'll use the vamo for testing ohms.

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With the leaking, did you change the coil after it started leaking? The only time I had a Pro Tank leak from the bottom, the coil was going off. And, well, there's the whole o ring - the base o ring is in place, and not compressed, right? I mean, under NORMAL circumstances, leaking shouldn't be happening through the coil, unless a few things are going wrong. A bad coil could be one thing, but I've only had that happen on a bad coil once, a missing or compressed o ring is another, or the coil being put in wrong. I'm not familiar with any problem that would require you to keep it upside down to keep it from leaking EXCEPT a missing o ring.

As far as juice getting in your mouth - that means juice is getting into your center tube. That could be happening because of a few different reasons. Well, the first one is easy. User error - you accidentally overfill the tank and it falls into the center tube while you still have it upside down, or you accidentally got it in the center tube. OR it could be flooding because the coil is bad, and isn't burning all the juice it's coming in contact with.

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and that's exactly what I don't get. I put a brand new coil in this morning and it was leaking from the get-go. I made sure to have the coil wasn't pressed too tightly, so that it didn't leak around the edges, and I made sure the tank wasn't screwed on too tightly to the Vamo. It's really starting to bug me.

When I put in the new coil I made sure to clean the area, so that there isn't any juice residue that would compromise a seal. It's honestly baffling me. The juice in the tube is definitely from the coil, and I have no idea why. I always make sure to clean the tube prior to use.

I'm seriously baffled. I'm usually extremely good at trouble-shooting, but this has me stumped. I LOVED the Kanger EVOD, but that was when I was using a PG mix.

The only conclusion I can come to is the coil being too dry from the thickness of the liquid, but that wouldn't happen immediately🚀, would it?

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No, you want the coil to seal tightly to the base. Tightly

You WANT to screw the coil into the base tightly, like Bebop said. The o ring on that coil is what makes one of the seals. And you want to make sure you put it in straight, as well.

EDIT: By the way, when it started leaking after you put the fresh coil in (I'm assuming after checking that the appropriate o rings were in place), how much leaking are we talking? A couple drops, a trickle, a steady run?

Edited by spydre
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Okay, I didn't make it clear, I guess. I get you need to put it in their tightly. I just made sure I didn't OVER-tighten. The leaking is NOT from around the coil. It's from INSIDE the coil. It's coming from that tiny little hole where the wires lead to the battery. We're talking a few drops, but, the longer I go without using it, the more juice that is there.

All O-Rings are in place, all seals are tight. I checked the inside of the base and established that it is NOT leaking from around the coil. there are no O-Rings involved in the leaking except for that little one that goes inside the coil, which surrounds the leads to the battery (I don't even know if you can call that an O-Ring as much as it is a rubber stopper)

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Okay, so are you using GENUINE Kanger coils? Black box, actually says "KangerTech" on the end flap (not a white box that on the back/front of it has boxes to select Kanger Evod or Kanger Pro Tank or even something else - I can't remember what else THAT knock off has on the box, it's been a while since I've had it).

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I take it your filling the tank to the maximum ?

I dont think its a coil issue.

Every tank ive used apart from the Davides will leak when they get to a certain level.

On some tanks its halfway on others its about quarter.

Without the tank being full there is a pressure loss against the seals and hence why we get leaking.

Why the Davides dont do this i dont know but what i do know is every Kanger variation ive tried does and will leak.

Maybe the evod is the same.

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