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2.4 Ohm Clearo Head Metered at 3.5...What Gives?


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Here's one for you tech-heads out there. Earlier today, I broke out a new head for my trusty Vision 2.0. Primarily to try out some new liquid, but also to give my new eGo Twist a quick test-drive. In the interest of calculating my vaping wattage at various settings, I broke out the multi-meter to get an accurate reading on the different atomizers I'm using. The standard attys (which came with my original eGo kit) that I've been direct-dripping with metered at 3.5 - 3.6 Ohms. No real surprise there. The real surprise came when I metered the clearomizer heads. They were supposed to be 2.4 Ohms (they're even stamped with 2.4 Ohm), but the meter read 3.5!!! I metered the heads alone, on the body of the clearo, and one head on the clearo filled with liquid, and properly wicked. No change. So, here's the question...multi-part, no less: -I do understand tolerances, but a full Ohm?? How can this be?? Am I doing something wrong with the meter?? -My experience with the clearo vs. the standard atty on a standard eGo battery using the same liquid (a 50/50 pg/vg blend) has been substantially different. The clearo has always gotten better vapor, throat hit, and flavor overall. I had to crank the Twist up to above 4.4-ish in order to even match the performance of the clearo. If both delivery devices are reading the same resistance, then why such drastic difference in performance?? Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me figure this out!!

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It could be any number of things. It could be mislabeled. This could be a manufacturer issue. Your meter could be not making a proper connection. I've been able to read certain coils perfectly while others are almost impossible to get a normal reading off of. For instance on my aga-t+ I can not get a good reading from the 510 connection but if I put it onto my VAMO it reads perfect. There are many variables. Just for now enjoy your vape! With that twist you should find a good spot with most any resistance. :D

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MSE to the rescue!!! Thanks for the info. Makes sense, because around 4 volts on the Twist gives me a good vape with the clearo. Guess I'll have to get a VAMO now to meter my attys... :p I can see this vaping thing eating up way more money than I ever spent smoking, LOL!!!

Edited by CascadianExotics
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This happens all the time not only on clearos but on just about every type of juicer known to man. I've had cartos drop from 3Ω to 2Ω over the course of a day, and before variable wattage devices came along, I would always wonder why things started tasting scorched. I've received brand new cartos/clearos/atties that were way off the mark in terms of stated resistance versus actual resistance.

You did the right thing by metering the load to find the proper voltage setting before firing it up. It's always better to take that extra step to ensure that you won't pop something.

It's like mcquinn said, "For what we pay for this stuff and the fact the manufacturer ,wholesaler and supplier all made a little plus shipping it amazes me any of it works at all."

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That explains a lot more, Rix. Toward the end of my tank of Dulcis, I was turning down the voltage because my vape was tasting scorched. So much so that I put the clearo back on my regular eGo. Went to go meter the clearo right after you posted that, and found out the battery in my multi-meter went **** up....guess I'll get it figured out when I get a new battery tomorrow. :angry: Yeah, McQuinn is right: its a miracle any of this cheap crap works at all!! I may as well just cut to the chase, and get a decent mod, a kick, and a good set of rebuildable attys. My wallet is screaming at me right now, LOL!!!

Edited by CascadianExotics
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The only thing I would add is that some meters need to be "zeroed out" or calibrated to get a good reading. Touch the 2 leads of your meter together and you should get 0 ohms.

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The only thing I would add is that some meters need to be "zeroed out" or calibrated to get a good reading. Touch the 2 leads of your meter together and you should get 0 ohms.

...if your meter doesn't show "0" when you touch the leads together (and it doesn't have a "zeroing" function or adjustment dial), just deduct whatever is passing for "zero" from what you get when you meter the juicer.

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I believe I heard that vw can actually change the resistance. If this is true then can't it fix the issue with his head not being the right amount of ohms? And if it does change the ohms if you have the right device that changes the watts and reads the amount of ohms then shouldn't this help with things like this?

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I believe I heard that vw can actually change the resistance. If this is true then can't it fix the issue with his head not being the right amount of ohms? And if it does change the ohms if you have the right device that changes the watts and reads the amount of ohms then shouldn't this help with things like this?

VW does not change the resistance. Resistance is the constant. What it does is changes the voltage on the device to match the resistance to acheive the correct wattage. ;)

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The effective heat will change due to crud building up on the element and insulating it.The resistance might change due to the liquid conducting current as the liquid would have a lower resistance than the element,but there would be little heating effect just current drained away from the element.But those effects would not cause you to get an errant reading on a new device that is dry.I don't bother trying to figure it out I just go with what worx and when it don't I change out for fresh stuff.

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MSE to the rescue!!! Thanks for the info. Makes sense, because around 4 volts on the Twist gives me a good vape with the clearo. Guess I'll have to get a VAMO now to meter my attys... :p I can see this vaping thing eating up way more money than I ever spent smoking, LOL!!!

The vamo is a cheap device which works decently well. I would definitely get the SS version. I have the black chrome version and the finish sucks. I just picked up a skin for mine so we'll see how it looks in a few days! :D Happy vaping!

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