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Kanger T3 Dry Hit Fix


Rixter

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I posted this earlier in a thread called "", but I figured it would do more good in a thread by itself.

For those of you T3 users experiencing dry hits, try this advice from Steve K from his "Kanger T3 Bottom Coil eGo Clearomizer Review" :

Kanger-t3-tldr.jpg

"I found in pretty short order, the T3 would give dry hits if I didn’t wait a sufficient amount of time for the coil to re-wick. This was frustrating as I tend to prefer to vape several times in a row.

Fortunately, it turns out there’s a pretty simple modification that can be made to the gaskets to improve liquid absorption and eliminate much of the dry hits. I can’t take credit for this one, a hat tip goes to the good folks over on Reddit.

Unscrew the bottom cap. Remove the gasket that sits on the top of the atomizer, flip the gasket over so the flat side is covering the wicks and replace the gasket. Apparently the gasket in the stock configuration compresses the wicks when the two parts are screwed together. Flipping the gasket keeps it from moving down over the wicks and does not appear to cause additional leaking problems.

Once the hack was in place, I found the T3 much more tolerant to chain vaping. Occasionally, I had to slow down and wait for a few bubbles to appear from the atomizer area. However, those moments were fairly few and far between. Vapor production was already very good, so I can’t really tell if there were any improvements there. I also ran into no additional flooding or gurgling problems in this configuration."

I hope this helps. :yes

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Okay, I have a stupid question. The gasket he's talking about is cup shaped, yes? So you just turn it over so the cup part sits on top of the wick or does he mean you take the cup shaped gasket and turn it inside out and then replace in the same way it was originally? I've read his instructions several times and I'm still not sure... It could also be that my brain is toast and no matter how many times I read it, it's not going to make sense to me tonight. :wallbash:

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Okay, I have a stupid question. The gasket he's talking about is cup shaped, yes? So you just turn it over so the cup part sits on top of the wick or does he mean you take the cup shaped gasket and turn it inside out and then replace in the same way it was originally? I've read his instructions several times and I'm still not sure... It could also be that my brain is toast and no matter how many times I read it, it's not going to make sense to me tonight. :wallbash:

He's talking about facing the gasket in the other direction (open end towards the mouthpiece) so it can't compress the wicks.

gallery_15088_188_6468.jpg

Edited by Rixter
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He's talking about facing the gasket in the other direction (open end towards the mouthpiece) so it can't compress the wicks.

Thanks for the pic. I tried doing that but didn't find any appreciable difference. Maybe just a bit less vapor, actually. When I put the end piece back on I had to wiggle it to make sure the gasket fit flush onto the center otherwise it bunched up and squished out unevenly when I screwed it in. :)

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Thanks for the pic. I tried doing that but didn't find any appreciable difference. Maybe just a bit less vapor, actually. When I put the end piece back on I had to wiggle it to make sure the gasket fit flush onto the center otherwise it bunched up and squished out unevenly when I screwed it in. :)

I take it you got your MT3s in. :question:

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Yes. Got them in and have tried two of the three and they both worked flawlessly. Just tried playing with the gasket to see if it made a difference and it did -- just not in a positive way so I put them back the way they came. :(

Maybe they got it right with the MT3. I know that some people were having issues with the T3.

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Maybe they got it right with the MT3. I know that some people were having issues with the T3.

The might have gotten them right with the T3 as well because I tried it with that, too. At least my T3s, the ones with the black lettering and two holes...they had the same result as the MT3s. *shrugs*

Wonder if the very first ones had the problem but the manufacturer got a clue and fixed the rest?

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So i tried this fix and it seems to have improved the performance. I'm now able to vape it at 7 watts without the dry hits. Good vapor, but throat hit and flavor on this device at any voltage is still lacking for me.

Thanks again for posting this rixter, it's made it vapeable for me, but for the long haul i'll stick w/ my boge carto tanks and vivi novas :)

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  • 7 months later...

Old topic, but thought I'd thank the original poster for the tip. Got my first Kanger t3s and was disappointed with the occasional dry hits. Found this thread and voila! Problem solved! :) it does get a little gurgly near the end of a tank, but meh, I just top it off. So far so good, so thanks :)

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