mikethevaper

With nickel it jumps around with heat but I have the ohms locked in at room temp. All of the connections are tight and I'm using a tug boat. I put a new build in it and it seems to be working okay now. I really don't know what the issue was.

So I had posted yesterday about nickel and had that problem resolved. But since I have run into another issue. Currently I'm running a .21 ohm nickel and kanthal twisted build. When I put it into nickel mode it atomatically switches back to standard mode. I have no idea why. Please help! I was really looking into having some fun with nickel but so far it's been the most frustrating thing when it come to vaping

I really like cereal flavored and milk in the morning. It makes my milk taste very creamy without all of the extra calories.

Thanks!! I'll try that! What's the wattage you would recommend?

Currently I'm using a Joytech Evic VT and I had just tried my hand at nickel coils. I really had trouble but I found a video that you could twist kanthal and nickel. I did that with 24g kanthal and 30g nickel. I built a single coil at .16 ohms running it at 520F and at 60w. It still is temp controlled even with the kanthal but I get a very burnt taste. But it doesn't burn the cotton and you can run it very low on juice. There are no hot spots and the coils are spaced evenly. Does anybody have a fix for this? Or what I'm doing wrong. Thanks in advance.

Will I get as much vapor production out of a higher ohm coil because of surface area?

Will I get as much vapor production?

So I have been subohming on a mech since around Christmas, I just got an istick 50w and am in love!! (so much battery life) I just threw a build on that I had been using on my mech it reads at .2, and have been using the whole 50watts or so it says I have because its probably past the amp limit. If I built at lets say .5-.7 would I get a better vape because of surface area? My definition of a better vape is a denser warmer vape with more flavor.

That's high on the amp limit but to each it's own.

Your gonna have to buy some more mods to fill it up.

I meant I'm using an ohm meter. Not that I am an ohm meter.

I'm a ohm meter and I'm using 30G wire.

I'll definitely make it much straighter next time with shorter leads, but do you guys know how to put a dual coil on just two posts, its so hard to do.

thats what it looks like now.

Ok kept building coils to get it to 1.5 finally and the vapor production is much better. But the hits tastes like lo mein noodles. And it's organic cotton and was boiled.

I just built one at 1.9 ohms and the vapor production didn't really change.

Get some flavors from MBV and see if you like them (15ml). When you find one that could be your all day vape pick up a 236ml bottom for like $45. My personal favorites are Moo Juice, Sticky Bun and Rootbeer.

I said it was 2.3 ohms in my original post. And I'm using it on a MVP 2.0.

I did torch them before and get them as close together as possible. And I'm not using a mech. I only have 50/50 juice, I'd like to get some higher VG juice, but I spend my vape budget for this month.

It's a Igo L, I attempted to do dual stacked coils but It just wasn't working. Got the bottom coil to fire but not the top. And it was a pita to even get them on the posts

This is my first build. It's 30g and is reading about 2.3 ohms But, I'm not getting as much vapor as I thought I would of a RDA. Is it because it's just a single coil? Or because it doesn't have that great of airflow? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

I think it said in the PDF that I downloaded, it said 3 amps was its limit. Do you know what the amps were? Also do any of you know how you can put a DNA 20 chip in the mvp and a better battery.

I was on youtube to see who tried to sub ohm a Itaste MVP 2.0 and it seems that people are going all the way down to .7 ohm, which at 5 volts would be about 7 amps, and the amp limit is 3.0 for the device. Is this safe or at all possible?

What is it on? Hana?

It's not hard to rebuild single coil protanks.