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if you're not getting a dry hit I wouldn't worry about it

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Yea it's hitting like a dream. Probably the best build I've ever hit. Just so weird that I only see it filling one hole.... Maybe it's just a wicking thing... Maybe the other wicks just hold way more juice.

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On either coast a firearm will have people sitting in corners playing with yoyos and petting ponies.  Anywhere in the center states you're pretty much ok.

CA, NY, NJ... and the rest of the 2nd Amendment-oppressed states find it hard to believe the rest of us have 2A "freedom"... without blood running in the streets, lol. In KY, you take an 8-hour c

Where I live a lot of people have CCW, it varies in Oregon depending on what county you live in, in the county I live in if you pass a background check, and know which end the bullet comes out of, and

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I wanna build a single coil tempered NI200 28 gauge between 11 or 12 wraps spaced on the RBA-T (~.15 ohms) The deck has plenty of room for it even with 2x spacing per wrap. I'd run it with temp control. It should be a great battery saving build, have really good flavor (tons of coil to cotton contact), and allow for a lot of use b4 needing rewicking/rebuilding.

But... I'm puzzled about the wicking. There are 3 wicking holes and with 1 coil you'd normally use 2 wicking holes... Would I just split the cotton out of the edges of one or both of the coils and send cotton from one or both coil ends into multiple juice wells? Or just try to plug one of the holes with a thick wad of cotton?

Is there a ceramic plug for 1 well for the RBA-T? My TFV12 RBA Edition didn't come with any ceramic plugs (they apparently make one for the dual coil velocity deck, but it wasn't in my kit).


PS. I'd wanna use the RBA-T and not the dual coil RBA because it's postless and would let me go thru the diameter of the deck to build the largest coil possible (could do over 30 wraps with contact, which might be a better move than trying to space (since 28 gauge would shift while wicking).

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I just wanna say that this triple coil RBA with the stock coils is the best tank setup I've ever used and it's not even close. The key is getting the tension of the cotton just right. Each well takes a strand from 2 of the coils. When wicking, use a somewhat thin strand to pull through the coil (just enough that it has some tension inside the coil) and cut the length so that pushing down into the juice wells has it that it is barely longer than the minimum length to reach the bottom of the well. When the second coil's cotton goes in, there will be enough to cover the entire well. Keep the cotton in the well quasi separate... Have the cotton strands touching to prevent space but don't have them overlap with eachother and keep them parallel side by side. When pushing down, have it go almost as straight down as you can but with the cotton still filling the entire coil tube (don't push down so much as for the end of the tube to not be completely tight with cotton). Once 3 coils wicks are placed in the well, there will be enough cotton to fill the entire well. Do the same on all 3 juice wells. It'll wick and hit like a dream. High watts feel nice and cool but produce tons of vapor with the best flavor you've ever had.

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The 2 cottons in the same well allows for incredible wicking, cuz when the cotton isn't bunched up (which with 2 cottons going in the same well it doesn't have to be) it causes the juice to flow directly upwards through the cottons' natural strands into the coil.

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16 hours ago, theclaw20 said:

Does anyone know what material the stock RBA coils are made of? Based on the resistence I get I think it's stainless steel.

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I'm about 99.999% sure they are Kanthal.

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Just now, theclaw20 said:

 


Damn. Wanted to try TC but wasnt gonna chance it without verifying the material.

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There's still that one thousandth of a percent where I'm not positive.  However, since SMOK doesn't make drop-in coils with SS wire, it doesn't make sense that they would be sending SS coils with their RBA decks.

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